Adam Bielecki (climber)

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Adam Bielecki
Adam Bielecki himalaista.jpg
Adam Bielecki(2011)
Born (1983-05-12) 12 May 1983 (age 37)
NationalityPolish
Occupation Mountaineer
Known forfirst winter ascents of Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak

Adam Radosław Bielecki (born 12 May 1983) is a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber, known for the first winter ascents of the eight-thousanders: Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak. In his book Spod zamarzniętych powiek written with co-author Dominik Szczepański, Bielecki tells the story of his climbings, memories from Himalayan expeditions, and the effort the highest mountains demand. [1]

Contents

Early life and education

Adam Bielecki was born in Tychy, Poland. At the age of 17, he was the youngest person to climb Khan Tengri in alpine-style.

Career

Bielecki climbs in the sport style, without oxygen support from the bottle.[ citation needed ]

Eight-thousanders

On September 30, 2011, together with Artur Hajzer and Tomasz Wolfart he summited Makalu (8463m), They climbed the mountain without supplementary oxygen. [2]

On March 9, 2012, Adam Bielecki with Janusz Gołąb made the first successful winter ascent of Gasherbrum I (8080m), thereby also achieving the highest elevation reached by man in winter in the Karakorum. They climbed the mountain without supplementary oxygen. [3]

On July 31, 2012, he summited K2 (8611m) without use of supplemental oxygen. [4]

On March 5, 2013, he climbed Broad Peak (8051m) together with Maciej Berbeka, Artur Małek and Tomasz Kowalski. They climbed the mountain without supplementary oxygen. The climbers separated before the summit, and while Bielecki and Małek reached the camp on descent, Berbeka and Kowalski went missing and were pronounced dead three days later. [5] [6]

On January 27, 2018, Bielecki, along with Denis Urubko, Jaroslaw Botor and Piotr Tomala led a rescue operation on Nanga Parbat to save climbers Élisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz, who were stuck on the mountain. [7] All 4 of them had been attempting a winter summit of K2, were brought to the mountain by helicopter. Bielecki and Urubko climbed over 1000m through the night to reach Revol. They succeeded in bringing Revol to safety, but, due to the severe weather conditions, were unable to save Mackiewicz. [8] The K2 expedition ended with no success. [9] Bielecki and his colleagues were awarded Legion of Honour, France's highest distinction for military and civil merits, for this rescue mission. [10]

On July 16 2018, Adam Bielecki with Felix Berg, climbed Gasherbrum II by the west face (probably the second ascent of this face) without supplementary oxygen. [11] [12]

Other Mountains

Bielecki was a leader of multiple expeditions on 5 continents, among other peaks he climbed also: Tilicho Peak, Pik Lenin, Jengish Chokusu (western summit), Damavand, Ararat, Kilimanjaro, Ruwenzori, Mount Kenya, Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Aconcagua, Denali (Mc Kinley) Dhampus Peak, El Cuerno, Artesonraju, Churup and in the Alps in total 17 four-thousanders, including Mont Blanc, Dufourspitze, Matterhorn. [13]

On August 20, 2017, Bielecki together with Paweł Migas and Jacek Czech climbed in the Cajon del Mapo region of the Andes opening 3 new routes: "Ruta Polaca", "Diedro Polaco" and "La Perdida". [14] [15]

Selected Ascents

Ascents on eight-thousanders

Ascents on other mountains

Selected awards

Related Research Articles

Reinhold Messner Italian mountaineer, adventurer and explorer

Reinhold Andreas Messner is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first climber to ascend all fourteen peaks over 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) above sea level. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds. He also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category of Sports.

Eight-thousander Peaks higher than 8,000 m

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation or UIAA recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent from neighbouring peaks. However, there is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

Nanga Parbat Eight-thousander and 9th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Pakistan

Nanga Parbat, known locally as Diamer, is the ninth-highest mountain in the world at 8,126 metres (26,660 ft) above sea level. Located in the Diamer District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat is the western anchor of the Himalayas. The name Nanga Parbat is derived from the Sanskrit words nagna and parvata, which, when combined, translate to "Naked Mountain". The mountain is known locally by its Tibetan name Diamer or Deo Mir, meaning "huge mountain".

Gasherbrum I Eight-thousander and 11th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Pakistan and China

Gasherbrum I, surveyed as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at 8,080 metres (26,510 ft) above sea level. It is located in District Shigar Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya. Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

Broad Peak Eight-thousander and 12th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Pakistan and China

Broad Peak is a mountain in the Karakoram on the border of Pakistan and China, the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,047 metres (26,401 ft) above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition.

Krzysztof Wielicki Polish mountaineer

Krzysztof Jerzy Wielicki is a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber, regarded as one of the greatest Polish climbers in history. He is the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse in winter. He is a member of The Explorers Club.

Alan Hinkes British Himalayan mountaineer

Alan Hinkes OBE is an English Himalayan high-altitude mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. He is the first and remains the only British mountaineer to claim all 14 Himalayan eight-thousanders, which he did on 30 May 2005.

Artur Hajzer Polish mountain climber

Artur Henryk Hajzer was a Polish mountaineer. Hajzer climbed seven eight-thousanders, several via new routes and made the first winter climb of Annapurna on February 3, 1987. He also summited Annapurna East (8010m) via a new route up the SE face in 1988. All these climbs were done together with Jerzy Kukuczka, without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. Artur also attempted Lhotse South Face three times, reaching 8200 m in 1985, 8300 m in 1987 and 7200 m in 1989. He also organised a rescue operation on Mount Everest’s West Ridge for Andrzej Marciniak in 1989. On September 30, 2011, he summited Makalu with Adam Bielecki and Tomasz Wolfart. In July 2013 he died after falling in the Japanese Coloir after an attempt to reach the summit of Gasherbrum I.

Simone Moro Italian alpinist (born 1967)

Simone Moro is an Italian alpinist known for having made first winter ascents of four of the fourteen eight-thousanders: Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009, Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016. He has also summited Everest four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.

Andrew James Lock OAM is an Australian high-altitude mountaineer. He became the first, and still remains the only, Australian to climb all 14 "eight-thousanders" on 2 October 2009, and is the 18th person to ever complete this feat. He climbed 13 of the 14 without using bottled oxygen, only using it on Mount Everest, which he has summited three times. He retired from eight-thousander climbing in 2012.

Anna Czerwińska

Anna Czerwińska is a Polish mountaineer. She is known for being the oldest woman to Summit Mount Everest at the age of 50. She has also published several books about mountaineering.

Silvio Mondinelli

Silvio Mondinelli, is an Italian mountaineer. In the year 2007, he became the 13th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. He is the 6th person to accomplish that feat without the use of supplementary oxygen. He was 49 years old when he summited the last of the 14 summits, a task he started in 1993 and finished in 2007.

Denis Urubko Russian-Polish mountaineer

Denis Urubko is a Russian-Polish mountaineer. In 2009, as a citizen of Kazakhstan he became the 15th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders and the 8th person to achieve the feat without the use of supplementary oxygen. He had Soviet citizenship, but after the dissolution of the Soviet Union he became a citizen of Kazakhstan, but renounced the citizenship in 2012. In 2013, he received Russian citizenship and on 12 February 2015 he received Polish citizenship.

Ralf Dujmovits is a German mountaineer. In May 2009 he became the 16th person, and the first German, to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.

Azim Gheychisaz

Azim Gheychisaz is an Iranian mountain climber and the summiter of all 14 Eight-thousanders. He is a member of Irania national mountaineering team. By 2017, he has successfully completed ascent to all of 14 peaks over 8,000 m, he did all of those ascents without supplementary oxygen, without Hi-porters.

Qudrat Ali Pakistani mountaineer

Qudrat Ali is a Pakistani mountaineer. He is also the co-founder and instructor in Shimshal Mountaineering School, and is a member of the Alpine Club.

Tomasz Mackiewicz was a Polish high-altitude climber. He died on an eight-thousander Nanga Parbat, known as the "Killer Mountain", in Pakistan.

Élisabeth Revol French high-altitude climber (born 1979)

Élisabeth Revol is a French high-altitude climber. In January 2018 Revol became the first woman to have climbed Nanga Parbat in Pakistan in winter; on the descent she was heroically rescued, while her teammate Tomasz Mackiewicz died, an event which was widely covered by the mainstream press. Having narrowly avoided amputation of her left foot she traversed consecutively Mount Everest and Lhotse in May 2019.

References

  1. . 2019-05-06. ASIN   832682402X.Missing or empty |title= (help)
  2. "A memorandum of Artur Hajzer". 2011-11-16. Archived from the original on 2014-05-17. Retrieved 2014-05-15.CS1 maint: discouraged parameter (link)
  3. "Poles summit Gasherbrum I in winter". 2012-03-20. Retrieved 2013-06-12.CS1 maint: discouraged parameter (link)
  4. "Adam Bielecki zdobył K2!". 2012-07-31. Retrieved 2017-08-18.CS1 maint: discouraged parameter (link)
  5. "FIRST WINTER ASCENT OF BROAD PEAK". 2013-03-12. Retrieved 2013-06-12.CS1 maint: discouraged parameter (link)
  6. "Winter expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association to Broad Peak (8,047 m) 2012/2013". 2013-03-19. Archived from the original on 2013-10-18. Retrieved 2013-06-12.CS1 maint: discouraged parameter (link)
  7. "THE KILLER MOUNTAIN MAY KILL AGAIN". dreamwanderlust.com. 31 January 2018.
  8. "Polish rescue team finds French climber on Pakistan's 'Killer Mountain". Reuters. 2018-01-28. Retrieved 2018-01-28.
  9. "Avalanche Danger Ends Polish K2 Expedition". 2018-03-13.
  10. "Polish high-altitude climbers awarded French Legion of Honour" . Retrieved 2019-07-14.
  11. "Adam Bielecki conquers Gasherbrum II". 2018-07-16.
  12. "New Route Up Big Face on Gasherbrum II". 2018-07-25.
  13. "Drytooling.com.pl baza ludzie". 2012-01-25.
  14. "Zimowa wyprawa w Andy, A. Bielecki, J. P. Czech, P. Migas". 2017-10-11.
  15. "La Nueva Ola Polaca". 2017.
  16. "Jacek Czech i Adam Bielecki północną ścianą Grandes Jorasses". 2019-02-26.
  17. "Bielecki, Czech i Tekieli drogą Schmidów na Matterhorn". 2015-02-15.
  18. "Transylvania OS (VII, 1100 m) w czasie 6,5 godz – Jacek Czech o wspinaniu w Dol. Sarca". 2016-07-28.
  19. "Sprawozdanie" (PDF). 2017-02-08.
  20. "PERU – Andy – Cordyliera Blanca". 2015.
  21. "Best of ExplorersWeb 2012 Awards Winner: Gasherbrum I First Winter Ascent". 2012-12-31.
  22. "TRAVELERY 2012 wręczone!". 2013-05-20.
  23. "Alpine Club recognise Nanga Parbat rescuers with Spirit of Mountaineering commendation".
  24. "Polish alpinists recognised for Nanga Parbat rescue action". 2018-12-27.
  25. "Adam Bielecki Calls Daring Rescue on Nanga Parbat "The Only Right Thing To Do"". 2019-03-13.
  26. "Meet the super climbers who came to the rescue on the 'Killer Mountain'". 2019-02-27.
  27. "Polish mountaineer awarded French Legion of Honour" . Retrieved 2019-07-14.