Adam Ondra

Last updated
Adam Ondra
20180227-LS-0055 by Lukasz Sokol.jpg
Ondra in 2018
Personal information
Born (1993-02-05) February 5, 1993 (age 31)
Brno, Czech Republic
Education Masaryk University
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height186 cm (6 ft 1 in)
Weight70 kg (154 lb)
SpouseIva Ondra
Website www.adamondra.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Ape index+1cm (0.4 in)
Highest grade
Known for
  • First to climb consensus sport 9b+  (5.15c) and 9c  (5.15d)
  • First to flash consensus sport 9a+  (5.15a)
  • First to win the World Championship in bouldering and lead climbing in single year
  • First to win the World Cup in bouldering and lead climbing
First ascents
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic
World Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2011 Arco Overall
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2014 Gijón Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2014 Munich Bouldering
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2016 Paris Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2019 Hachiōji Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2009 Xining Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2011 ArcoBouldering
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2016 ParisBouldering
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2018 InnsbruckCombined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2011 ArcoLead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2012 Paris Lead
World Cup
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2009Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2009Combined
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2010Bouldering
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2010Combined
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2015Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2015Combined
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2019Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2019Bouldering
European Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2019 EdinburghLead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2022 Munich Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2010 Imst/InnsbruckLead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2010 Imst/InnsbruckBouldering
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2015 ChamonixLead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2015 InnsbruckBouldering
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2017 Campitello di FassaLead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2022 MunichCombined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2022 MunichBouldering
Updated on April 19, 2021.

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. [1] Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes (alongside Sorato Anraku in 2023) to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines (lead climbing in 2009, 2015, and 2019 and bouldering in 2010).

Contents

At age 13, Ondra redpointed his first graded 9a  (5.14d) sport route. Rock & Ice noted that by 2011, he was "onsighting 5.14c's by the handful", and by 2013, had "more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily". [1] By end 2018, Ondra had climbed 1,550 sport routes between grades 8a  (5.13b) and 9c  (5.15d), of which one was a 9c  (5.15d), three were 9b+  (5.15c), and three were onsights of 9a  (5.14d). [2]

Ondra is the first climber to redpoint a route with a proposed grade of 9c  (5.15d) ( Silence , 2017), [3] the first-ever climber to redpoint a 9b+  (5.15c) route (Change, 2012), [4] the first-ever to flash a 9a+  (5.15a) route (Supercrackinette, 2018), and the second ever to onsight a 9a  (5.14d) route (Cabane au Canada, 2013). [5] According to The Economist, Ondra is "regarded as possibly the best climber ever to fondle rock". [6]

Climbing career

Early years

Ondra in 2009 at Imst Adam Ondra Imst 2009.JPG
Ondra in 2009 at Imst

Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers, and they shared their passion with him. In 1999, at age six, in Rovinj, Croatia, Ondra climbed a 6a  (5.10a) route with bolts every half meter. He quickly rose to fame, appearing in climbing magazines as his accomplishments became both more impressive and frequent:

Competition climbing

Adam Ondra at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009 Adam Ondra Imst.JPG
Adam Ondra at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009
Adam Ondra at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010 Boulder Worldcup Vienna 29-05-2010a semifinals068 Adam Ondra.jpg
Adam Ondra at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

In 2007 and 2008, he won the IFSC World Youth Championship, category Youth B. In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup, finishing ahead of Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma. [8] In 2010, he won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian climber Kilian Fischhuber and Tsukuru Hori from Japan, becoming the first athlete in history to win the World Cup in both disciplines (lead and bouldering). [9]

Ondra failed to qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, as he was disqualified for accidentally toeing a bolt during the lead climbing portion of the combined event. [10] However, at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse later that year, he managed to secure a place in the Olympic Games, [11] despite falling ill after reaching the finals of the event.

In April 2021 Ondra won gold in the bouldering discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland. This marked his 20th World Cup gold medal. [12] In August 2021, Ondra finished in sixth place at the 2020 Summer Olympics. [13]

Rock climbing

Ondra climbing Silence, 9c (5.15d), in 2017 Adam Ondra climbing Silence, 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 1-cropped.jpg
Ondra climbing Silence, 9c  (5.15d), in 2017

During a March 2011 trip to Spain, Ondra became the second-ever person to onsight a 8c+  (5.14c) route, after Patxi Usobiaga. [14] On October 4, 2012, Ondra redpointed Change in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger, Norway, the world's first-ever route to receive a grade of 9b+  (5.15c). [4] [15]

On February 7, 2013, Ondra ascended La Dura Dura in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second 9b+  (5.15c) after Change. He worked on this project with American climber Chris Sharma, and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks. [16] On February 9, 2013, two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the 9b  (5.15b) route, Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011. [17] On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second-ever onsight of a 9a  (5.14d) route in history, after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland. [5]

On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of the 1,000-metre granite route, The Dawn Wall, a 32-pitch grade 5.14d  (9a) big wall climbing route at El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley. The route was widely regarded as the hardest big wall climbing route in the world. Ondra led every pitch and completed the project in 8 days (the first ascenders, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson alternated leads, and spent 19 days on the wall). [18]

On April 23, 2017, Ondra set a new highpoint for Black Diamond's The Project indoor sport route in Stockholm, Sweden, which is believed to be the hardest in the world. [19]

On September 3, 2017, after about 4 years of dedicated work and training, Ondra climbed Silence , in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. Silence was the world's first-ever route to have a proposed grade of 9c  (5.15d). [3] On February 10, 2018, Ondra completed the world's first-ever flash of a confirmed 9a+  (5.15a) route with his ascent of Super Crackinette in Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France. [20]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Discipline200920102011201220132014201520162017201820192021
Lead1357-1131232731131
Bouldering151---243---23
Speed-----------
Combined11---21-65-2-

[21]

Climbing World Championships

Youth [22]

Discipline2007
Youth B
2008
Youth B
2009
Youth A
Lead111

Adult [22]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Lead2331121
Bouldering-2-12176
Speed-70---8158
Combined-----218

Climbing European Championships

Discipline201020132015201720192022
Lead2-2211
Bouldering2-2--3

[22]

Rock Master

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Lead335-
Duel12-11
KO Boulder-------1

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

SeasonCategoryGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2007Youth B55
2008Youth B55
Total100010

[22]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
200944
20101113
2011
2012
0
2013112
201433
2015224
20160
201711
20180
201933
202011
20210
202211
202311
Total166123

[22]

Bouldering

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
200911
2010325
2011
2012
2013
0
201411
201522
2016
2017
2018
0
2019123
202122
20220
202311
Total66315

[22]

Single-pitch routes

The table below shows the large number of routes graded 8a  (5.13b) or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 16 years, from August 2, 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 10, 2018. [2] The total number is 1554, of which one was at 9c  (5.15d) and 725 were onsighted, including four onsights at 9a  (5.14d) and one flash at 9a+  (5.15a). [2]

Number of ascended routes
Grade Redpoint Flash On-sight Total
9c  (5.15d)11
9b+  (5.15c)44
9b  (5.15b)2020
9a+  (5.15a)39140
9a  (5.14d)10124107
8c+  (5.14c)124121146
8c  (5.14b)110161172
8b+  (5.14a)96485185
8b  (5.13d)10819143270
8a+  (5.13c)8217207306
8a  (5.13b)6535205305
Total750807251555

Redpoint

9c  (5.15d):

  • Silence (originally known as Project hard) - Flatanger (NOR) - September 3, 2017 - First ascent, and world's first-ever proposed 9c  (5.15d) route (the grade has to be confirmed). [3] [23]

9b+  (5.15c):

9b  (5.15b):

  • Wonderland - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route 9b/9b+ or hard 9b, making it the hardest route in Italy.
  • Bomba - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent
  • The Lonely Mountain - Arco (ITA) - December 2021. Second ascent after Stefano Ghisolfi.
  • Taurus - Býčí skála (CZE) - December 2021 - First Ascent
  • Erebor - Arco (ITA) - November 2021
  • Neanderthal - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 12, 2019
  • Disbelief - Acephale (CAN) - July 20, 2018 - First ascent [25]
  • Eagle-4 - St. Léger (FRA) - February 13, 2018 - First ascent
  • One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017 - First ascent
  • Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - July 10, 2017 - First ascent (link-up of two neighboring routes; through first crux of Move into second crux of Silence, at the time known as Project Hard)
  • Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent [26]
  • Queen Line - Laghel (Arco, ITA) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent [27]
  • Mamichula - Oliana (ESP) - February 8, 2017 - First ascent [28]
  • Robin Ud - Alternativna stena (SVK) - October 5, 2016 - First ascent [29]
  • Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 19, 2016 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
  • C.R.S. - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
  • First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
  • Move - Flatanger (NOR) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route "9b/9b+, or just hard 9b". [30] Repeated on June 17, 2019 by Seb Bouin, who later on upgraded the route to 9b+. [31]
  • Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent
  • Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011) [17]
  • La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 22, 2011 - First ascent [32]
  • Chilam Balam -Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed) [33]
  • Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start [34]
  • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent [35]
  • Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008) [36]

9a+  (5.15a):

  • Bombardino - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - February 23, 2022
  • Trofeo dell'Adriatico - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - January 27, 2022
  • Furia de Jabali - Siurana (ESP) - January 19, 2022
  • Kout pikle - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - December 18, 2021 - First Ascent
  • Molekuly - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - October 26, 2021 - First Ascent
  • Bohemian Rhapsody - Velká (CZE) - April, 2020 - First Ascent
  • Qui - Geisterschmiedwand (AUT) - September 19, 2019 - Second ascent
  • Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 10, 2019
  • Czech trip - Mavrovi Anovi (MKD) - October 19, 2018 - First Ascent
  • High Line - Kanjon Tijesno (BiH) - September 25, 2018
  • Sacrifice - Echo Canyon (CAN) - July 23, 2018 - First ascent
  • Stone Butterfly - Herculane (ROU) - May 15, 2018 - First ascent
  • Underground Dreaming - Arco (ITA) - February 24, 2018 - First ascent
  • Super Crackinette - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 10, 2018 - Flash
  • La Castagne - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 2, 2018
  • Meiose - Charmey (CHE) - January 27, 2018
  • One Punch - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017
  • Naturalmente - Camaiore (ITA) - April 21, 2017 - First ascent [37]
  • Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (ITA) - April 19, 2017 - third ascent [27]
  • Hyper Finale - Ayent, Rawyl (CHE) - July 17, 2016
  • 120 Degrees - Flatanger (NOR) - June 19, 2016
  • Vicious Circle - Osp (SLO) - March 25, 2016
  • Predator - Bohemian Karst (CZE) - November 19, 2015 - first ascent, the hardest route in Bohemia [38]
  • Three Degrees of Separation - Céüse (FRA) - July 27, 2015 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2007)
  • Realization - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2014 - tenth ascent
  • Ini Ameriketan - Baltzola (ESP) - May 9, 2014
  • Hell Racer - Hell (NOR) - September 22, 2013 - first ascent
  • Kangaroo's Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - September 21, 2013 - first ascent
  • Torture Physique Integrale - Gastlosen (CHE) - July 7, 2013 - first ascent
  • Power Inverter - Oliana (ESP) - January 25, 2013 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010)
  • Thor's Hammer - Flatanger (NOR) - July 8, 2012 - first ascent (now downgraded to 9a)
  • Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - June 7, 2012 - first ascent [39]
  • Perlorodka - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - first ascent
  • Overshadow - Malham Cove (GBR) - May 16, 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route [40]
  • Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 21, 2011 - first ascent of Chris Sharma's project
  • Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - March 14, 2011 - first ascent of Daniel Andrada's project [41]
  • L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - September 4, 2010 - First ascent [42]
  • Goldrake - Cornalba (ITA) - April 6, 2010 - first ascent [43]
  • Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - October 20, 2009 - first ascent [44]
  • Corona - Frankenjura (DEU) - June 7, 2009 - second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006) [45]
  • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008) [46]
  • Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - November 17, 2008 - second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996) [47]
  • La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - February 10, 2008 - sixth ascent [48]

On-sight

The east face of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, containing Just do it (8c+), onsighted by Ondra in 2018. When it was first ascended by Tribout, Just do it was considered the hardest route in the USA. Monkey Face - Smith Rock, Oregon.jpg
The east face of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, containing Just do it (8c+), onsighted by Ondra in 2018. When it was first ascended by Tribout, Just do it was considered the hardest route in the USA.

9a  (5.14d):

  • Water World - Osp (SLO) - Nov 2022 - [50]
  • TCT - Gravere (ITA) - July 11, 2014
  • Il Domani - Baltzola (ESP) - May 3, 2014
  • Cabane au Canada - Rawyl (CHE) - July 9, 2013 - Second-ever 9a onsight in history [5]


8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b):

  • Aktion Talon - Höllental (AUT) - June 29, 2013
  • Into the Wild - Jaén (ESP) - March 16, 2013
  • Terapia de Grito - Cuenca (ESP) - February 13, 2013
  • El Calvario del Sicario - Cuenca (ESP) - February 10, 2013
  • Nordic Flower - Flatanger (NOR) - July 9, 2012
  • Scoglio de Capri - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012
  • Iluzija - Kotecnik (SVN) - April 5, 2012
  • 5 Uve - Arco (ITA) - June 27, 2011
  • Bat Route - Malham Cove (GBR) - May 16, 2011
  • Carbunco - Archidona (ESP) - April 23, 2011
  • Kalliste - Archidona (ESP) - April 23, 2011
  • Fuck the police - Etxauri (ESP) - March 6, 2011
  • Dures Limites - Céüse (FRA) - August 10, 2010 [62]
  • Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
  • Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
  • Guère d'usure - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010 [63]
  • Super Samson - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010 [63]
  • Gora Guta Gutarak - Kalymnos (GRC) - May 22, 2009 [64]
  • Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009 [65]
  • Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009 [65]
  • L'espiadimondis - Margalef (ESP) - March 2, 2009
  • Los Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009
  • Métaphysique Des Tubes - Seynes (FRA) - February 21, 2009
  • Absinth - Sparchen (AUT) - August 16, 2008
  • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 7, 2008
  • Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 5, 2008

Boulder problems

Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008, [66] 2009 [67] 2010 [68] and 2011. [69]

He climbed 293 boulder problems between 8A  (V11) and 8C+  (V16). [70] Specifically:

  • 4 8C+/V16
  • 10 8C/V15
  • 31 8B+/V14
  • 57 8B/V13
  • 76 8A+/V12
  • 115 8A/V11

8C+  (V16):

8C/8C+  :

8C  (V15):

  • Nunavut - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
  • Pučmeloun - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
  • Ghost Rider - (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - September 24, 2019 - Second ascent
  • Cháron - Petrohrad (Mlýnský vrch), (CZE) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent [74]
  • Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (CHE) - October 1, 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
  • Pata ledovce - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent [75]
  • Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZAF) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
  • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - November 30, 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005) [76]
  • Big Paw - Chironico (CHE) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008) [77]

Multi-pitch routes

Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar.jpg
Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle
January 14, 2015 - Redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days, after 7 years of mapping. [78] [79]
November 21, 2016 - Redpointed by Adam Ondra in 8 days, after a few weeks of practicing the already mapped ascent. [80]

Filmography

Books

Awards

See also

Related Research Articles

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian rock climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sachi Amma</span> Japanese rock climber

Sachi Amma is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Patxi Usobiaga</span> Spanish rock climber (born 1980)

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silence (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in Norway

Silence, is a 45-metre (148 ft) overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. As of March 2024, Silence remains unrepeated.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Laura Rogora</span> Italian rock climber

Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded 9c (5.15d), with DNA in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of 9b+ (5.15c). Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Bosi</span> Scottish rock climber (born 1998)

William (Will) Bosi is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route, and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder.

Jonathan Siegrist is an American rock climber who is regarded as one of the world's most prolific extreme sport climbers, and who has redpointed, and made numerous first free ascents, of a large number of sport climbing routes at and above the grade of 9a (5.14d). Siegrist's breadth of experience at the world's most extreme sport climbing grades, means that he is often looked to for guidance regarding the grading of extreme sport routes in America. While principally known as a sport climber, he has also repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes.

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