Augusta Lundin

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Augusta Lundin
Augusta Lundin (1840-1919).jpg
Born(1840-06-13)13 June 1840
Kristianstad, Sweden
Died20 February 1919(1919-02-20) (aged 78)
NationalitySwedish
Occupationfashion designer

Augusta Lundin (13 June 1840 in Kristianstad – 20 February 1919) was a Swedish fashion designer. She is considered to be the first international Swedish fashion designer as well as the first well known fashion designer in Sweden. [1]

Kristianstad Place in Skåne, Sweden

Kristianstad is a city and the seat of Kristianstad Municipality, Skåne County, Sweden with 40,145 inhabitants in 2016. During the last 15 years, it has gone from a garrison town to a developed commercial city, today attracting visitors in the summertime mainly from Germany, Denmark and The Netherlands.

Contents

Early years and education

Born to tailor Anders Lundin and Christina Andersdotter in Kristianstad, she learned the profession as a child, along with her sister, Hulda Lundin.

Tailor person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, typically mens clothing

A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially suits and men's clothing.

Hulda Lundin Swedish tailor, educator

Hulda Lundin was a Swedish tailor and educator who laid the foundation for modern sewing education. She was the founder of the so-called “Swedish public school system of manual training”, and served as Inspectress of Girls' Sloyd in the public schools of Stockholm. The government of Sweden granted Lundin a stipend to the World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago, the only woman thus chosen.

Career

She later moved to Stockholm, where she was employed at the Emma Hellgren hatshop in 1863–65 and the fashion studio of C L Flory & co in 1865–67. In 1867, she started her own fashion studio, and in 1874, she made her first study trip to Paris, and started her own fashion paper.

Paris Capital of France

Paris is the capital and most populous city of France, with an area of 105 square kilometres and an official estimated population of 2,140,526 residents as of 1 January 2019. Since the 17th century, Paris has been one of Europe's major centres of finance, commerce, fashion, science, and the arts.

From her fashoin house, 1885 Insida av klanning, detalj - Hallwylska museet - 89336.tif
From her fashoin house, 1885

Lundin made study trips to Paris once a year. She introduced the French method of making every part of a dress separately to Sweden. In 1886, she designed a "reformed costume", a loose dress without corset or bustle, on commission of the reformed dress society, which desired a more healthy dress model for women.

Corset garment, reinforced with stays, that supports the waistline, hips and bust.

A corset is a garment worn to hold and train the torso into a desired shape, traditionally a smaller waist or larger bottom, for aesthetic or medical purposes, to improve posture, or support the breasts. Both men and women are known to wear corsets, though this item was for many years an integral part of women's wardrobes.

Bustle pads or frames worn at or below the waist in the back to distend the garment backward at the hips

A bustle is a padded undergarment used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles were worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. Heavy fabric tended to pull the back of a skirt down and flatten it. Thus, a woman's petticoated or crinolined skirt would lose its shape during everyday wear. The word "bustle" has become synonymous with a protruding rear profile, for example a "bustleback" car.

Working at the fashion house, 1900 Augusta Lundin, syatelje vid Brunkebergstorg omkring ar 1900.jpg
Working at the fashion house, 1900

Among her clientele were Selma Lagerlöf, Josephine of Leuchtenberg and Sophie of Nassau, as well as international clients, especially in Denmark, Norway, Finland and the Russian Empire. King Oscar II of Sweden gave away her dresses as Christmas gifts every year to the lady-in-waitings at the royal court. On 31 October 1892, [2] she was made official dressmaker of the queen, Sophia of Nassau; at assignments for the court, she brought models to the royal palace to display the clothes.

Selma Lagerlöf Swedish writer

Selma Ottilia Lovisa Lagerlöf was a Swedish author and teacher. She published her first novel, Gösta Berling's Saga, at the age of 33. She was the first female writer to win the Nobel Prize in Literature, which she was awarded in 1909. Additionally, she was the first female to be granted a membership in The Swedish Academy in 1914.

Josephine of Leuchtenberg Swedish queen

Joséphine of Leuchtenberg or Joséphine de Beauharnais was Queen of Sweden and Norway as the wife of King Oscar I, as well as Princess of Bologna from birth and Duchess of Galliera from 1813. She was known as Queen Josefina, and was regarded to be politically active during the reign of her spouse. She acted as his political adviser and actively participated in state affairs. She was particularly active within the laws of religion in Sweden and Norway, and is attributed to have introduced more liberal laws regarding religion.

Russian Empire Former country, 1721–1917

The Russian Empire, also known as Imperial Russia or simply Russia, was an empire that existed across Eurasia and North America from 1721, following the end of the Great Northern War, until the Republic was proclaimed by the Provisional Government that took power after the February Revolution of 1917.

Lundin was known as a good employer: she was an honorary member of the dressmaker's society (1880) and aware that seamstresses often damaged their backs and eyes at work, she instigated a 12-hour work shift and a two-week summer vacation (1890), something quite unique for an employer in Sweden at a time when few employers allowed for vacations at all. She employed only women until 1910.

At her death in 1919, she left the company to her siblings' children. In the 1920s, the company experienced difficulties because of the simplified fashion and the confection industry; it was closed in 1939.

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References

  1. Svenskt biografiskt lexikon (art av Gunhild Engholm), hämtad 2015-01-06.
  2. Svenskt biografiskt lexikon (art av Gunhild Engholm), hämtad 2015-01-06.

Bibliography

Berg Publishers was an academic publishing company based in Oxford, England that was founded in 1983 by Marion Berghahn. Berg published monographs, textbooks, and reference works as well as academic journals. Concentrations were fashion, design, anthropology, history, and cultural studies.

International Standard Book Number Unique numeric book identifier

The International Standard Book Number (ISBN) is a numeric commercial book identifier which is intended to be unique. Publishers purchase ISBNs from an affiliate of the International ISBN Agency.