Broad Peak

Last updated
Broad Peak
Falchan Kangri
7 15 BroadPeak.jpg
Broad Peak from Concordia
Highest point
Elevation 8,051 m (26,414 ft) [1]
Ranked 12th
Prominence 1,701 m (5,581 ft) [1]
Isolation 9.12 km (5.67 mi)  OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg
Listing Eight-thousander
Ultra
Coordinates 35°48′42″N76°33′54″E / 35.81167°N 76.56500°E / 35.81167; 76.56500 Coordinates: 35°48′42″N76°33′54″E / 35.81167°N 76.56500°E / 35.81167; 76.56500
Naming
Native nameبروڈ پیک  (Urdu)
Geography
Karakoram relief location map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Broad Peak
Location of Broad Peak
Gilgit Baltistan relief map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (Gilgit Baltistan)
China Xinjiang rel location map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (Xinjiang)
Location Baltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China, China–Pakistan border
Parent range Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team
(First winter ascent 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek)
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Broad Peak (Urdu : بروڈ پیک) [2] is a mountain in the Karakoram on the border of Pakistan and China, the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,047 metres (26,401 ft) above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition.

Contents

Geography

Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China. [1] It is located in the Karakoram mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak". [3]

The mountain has five summits: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m).[ citation needed ]

Etymology

The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people. [4] The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps. [5]

Climbing history

The first ascent of Broad Peak was made between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters or base camp support. [4]

In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres. [6] [7]

In 2008 Frenchwoman Élisabeth Revol made a solo ascent of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II within 16 days and without the aid of oxygen as her climbing partner Antoine Girard had fallen ill. [8]

In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna. [9]

In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from Camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to seven more climbers from other expeditions. They all summitted on July 31, 2012. [10]

On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak was the twelfth Eight-thousander summited in wintertime and the tenth Eight-thousander first summitted in winter by Polish climbers. [11] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki, said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski. [12] On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended. [13]

In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them — Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead. [14] [15]

On July 23, 2016, Frenchman Antoine Girard's paraglider flight over Broad Peak was the first time a paraglider had flown above an 8,000-metre summit. [16] [17] [18]

On July 14, 2019 a 17 year old Shehroze Kashif from Pakistan became the youngest ever to summit this peak at along with his two HAPs Akbar Hassan Sadpara and Abbas. [19]

Timeline

Passes

Windy Gap is a 6,111-metre (20,049 ft)-high mountain pass 35°52′23″N76°34′37″E / 35.87318°N 76.57692°E / 35.87318; 76.57692 at east of K2, north of Broad Peak, and south of Skyang Kangri.

See also

Related Research Articles

Cho Oyu Mountain in Nepal/China

Cho Oyu is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at 8,188 metres (26,864 ft) above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the China–Nepal border.

Nanga Parbat 9th highest mountain on Earth, located in Pakistan

Nanga Parbat, known locally as Diamer, is the ninth-highest mountain in the world at 8,126 metres (26,660 ft) above sea level. Located in the Diamer District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat is the western anchor of the Himalayas. The name Nanga Parbat is derived from the Sanskrit words nagna and parvata, which, when combined, translate to "Naked Mountain". The mountain is known locally by its Tibetan name Diamer or Deo Mir, meaning "huge mountain".

Gasherbrum I Mountain in Asia

Gasherbrum I, surveyed as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at 8,080 metres (26,510 ft) above sea level. It is located in Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya. Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

Hermann Buhl

Hermann Buhl was an Austrian mountaineer and is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying Alpine style to Himalayan climbing. His accomplishments include:

Gasherbrum II

Gasherbrum II ; surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at 8,034 metres (26,358 ft) above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan, and Xinjiang, China. The mountain was first climbed on July 7, 1956, by an Austrian expedition which included Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart.

Kurt Diemberger

Kurt Diemberger is an Austrian mountaineer and author of several books. He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960.

Chogolisa

Chogolisa is a trapezoidal mountain in the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks: the highest, on the SW face, rises to 7,668 metres (25,157 ft); the second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.

Krzysztof Wielicki Polish mountaineer

Krzysztof Jerzy Wielicki is a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber, regarded as one of the greatest Polish climbers in history. He is the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse in winter. He is a member of The Explorers Club.

Alpine style is mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter and equipment as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style climbing means the refusal of fixed ropes, mountain guides, high-altitude porters, supplemental oxygen and doping agents, portable hyperbaric bag.

Fritz Wintersteller

Fritz Wintersteller was an Austrian mountaineer who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, and Marcus Schmuck in 1957.

Marcus Schmuck was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Buhl, to climb the world's 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak (8,047 metres) in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger. In his later years, he successfully organized and led 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world.

Wojciech Kurtyka is a Polish mountaineer and rock climber, one of the pioneers of the alpine style of climbing the biggest walls in the Greater Ranges. He lived in Wrocław up to 1974 when he moved to Kraków. He graduated as engineer in electronics. In 1985 he climbed the "Shining Wall" Gasherbrum IV, which Climbing magazine declared to be the greatest achievement of mountaineering in the twentieth century. In 2016, he received the Piolet d'Or for lifetime achievement in mountaineering.

Maciej Berbeka was a Polish mountaineer, mountain guide UIAGM and member of TOPR. He and his teammate Tomasz Kowalski went missing on 6 March 2013 as they were descending from Broad Peak. They were declared dead two days later.

Andrzej Zawada

Andrzej Zawada was a Polish mountaineer, pioneer of winter Himalayism. Zawada was an organiser and leader in numerous high-mountains expeditions. Author of movies and photographs from expeditions, co-author of Alpinist books. Honorary member of the British Alpine Club, French Groupe de Haute Montagne and American The Explorers Club.

Carlos Carsolio Larrea is a Mexican mountain climber. Carsolio is known for being the fourth man and the second youngest to climb the world's 14 eight-thousander mountain peaks, all of them without supplementary oxygen.

Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich Polish mountain climber

Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich was a Polish mountaineer. He died in an avalanche on the northwest slopes of Mount Everest in 1989.

Adam Bielecki (climber)

Adam Radosław Bielecki is a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber, known for the first winter ascents of the eight-thousanders: Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak. In his book Spod zamarzniętych powiek written with co-author Dominik Szczepański, Bielecki tells the story of his climbings, memories from Himalayan expeditions, and the effort the highest mountains demand.

Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz

Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz (1942–1978) was a British climber, mountaineer, painter and lithography lecturer. She made the first ascent of Gasherbrum III, at the time the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz died along with her climbing partner, Vera Watson, during an attempt on Annapurna I Central.

References

  1. 1 2 3 "Broad Peak". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
  2. "Broad Peak: 12th Highest Mountain in the World". About.com.
  3. "Broad Peak". Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  4. 1 2 3 "Broad Peak: Some background and History". Everest News. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  5. Richard Sale and John Cleare, Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains: The History of the 8, 000-Meter Peaks, The Mountaineers, 2000
  6. „Broad Peak 2007“ Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German)
  7. "Highest-Altitude Body Recovery in History". Alpinist. 25 July 2007. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  8. "Portrait of Elisabeth Revol". BLUE ICE. 2017-01-04. Retrieved 2019-09-22.
  9. "Broad Peak update: Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4 - no summits confirmed yet" . Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  10. "Koroska 8000 - Broad Peak". Climbing in Slovenia. Archived from the original on 2016-03-14. Retrieved 2016-03-14.
  11. "Polish mountaineers make first winter ascent of Broad Peak". thenews.pl. 5 March 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  12. "Head of expedition says no chance of finding alive 2 Polish climbers missing in Himalayas". Associated Press. 7 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-08.
  13. "Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-09.
  14. "Iranian Broad Peak New Route: Complications on Descent" . Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  15. "Rescue attempts for Iranian climbers".
  16. "Antoine Girard breaks 8,100m in Karakoram - Cross Country Magazine – In the Core since 1988". xcmag.com. 26 July 2016. Retrieved 30 June 2018.
  17. Antoine Girard (1 August 2016). "Broad Peak" . Retrieved 30 June 2018 via YouTube.
  18. "Antoine Girard - Objectif X-Alps 2017". www.antoinegirard.fr. Retrieved 30 June 2018.
  19. Rizvi, Raza (2019-07-20). "17-Year-Old Becomes the Youngest Pakistani to Summit 8000m Mountain" . Retrieved 2019-09-23.
  20. "First ascent". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
  21. "Krystyna Palmowska o zdobyciu Broad Peak" [Krystyna Palmowska on reaching Broad Peak: we got hot on this mountain] (in Polish). Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  22. "Nanga Parbat, First Ladies-only Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 1986. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  23. "Kurt Diemberger" . Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  24. Carsolio, Carlos (1995). "On the Brink on Broad Peak". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2020-12-14.
  25. "Broad Peak 8047m Austrian Karakoram Expedition 1957". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  26. "Anatoli Boukreev Summits Fourth 8,000-meter Peak in 80 Days". Mountain Zone. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  27. "Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!". planetmountain.com. May 3, 2013. Retrieved 2013-07-24.

Further reading