Climbing history
In 1909,a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further,but their climb established a new world altitude record [1] which wasn't beaten until 13 years later,when Mallory,Norton and Somervell reached 8,200 m (26,903 ft) on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition. [4]
Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25,they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27,a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and,on the descent,Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. [5] His body has never been found. [1]
On August 4,1958,a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II,placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top. [6] [7] [8]
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2,1975,by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl,as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent,but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety. [9] [1]
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