Dhoti

Last updated

The dhoti, also known as veshti, [1] mardani, chaadra, dhontar, jaiñboh & panchey, is a type of sarong, fastened in between the legs in a manner that it outwardly resembles trousers, sometimes loose but other tighter fittings are worn as well. [2] [3] [4] It is a lower garment forming part of the folk costume for men in the Indian subcontinent. [5] The dhoti is fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 4.5 metres (15 ft) long, wrapped around the waist and the legs and knotted, either in the front or the back.

Contents

An artiste performing a Dogri dance at a theatre in Jammu. An Indian dancer in dhoti, wrapped around his waist.jpg
An artiste performing a Dogri dance at a theatre in Jammu.

The dhoti is touted as the male counterpart of the saari worn by females to religious and secular ceremonies (functions). [6] Pitambar is a yellow silk dhoti worn on auspicious occasions. [7] [8] The dhoti worn over the lower waist and drawn up in between the legs, is a 5-yard-long piece of woven fabric; it must not be confused with prestitched "dhoti pants", which are a new ready to wear trend these days, popular among women and typical of children. [9] [10] [11]

An illustration of sepoys (soldiers) recruited into the British Indian military. Anonymous - Four Recruits in White Dhotis, page from the Fraser Album - 1981.247 - Art Institute of Chicago.jpg
An illustration of sepoys (soldiers) recruited into the British Indian military.

Etymology

Khasi folk dancers wearing "Jainboh" dhotis and other traditional garb. Shad Suk Mysiem.JPG
Khasi folk dancers wearing "Jaiñboh" dhotis and other traditional garb.

It is also referred to as "Dhautra" (IPA: /dʱɑwtɽɐ/) in Sanskrit, which means rope or cord. The dhoti evolved from the ancient antriya which was passed through the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then flowed into long pleats at front of the legs, the same way it is worn today as formal dhoti. [12] :130 While a casual and short dhoti wraps around both legs firmly, in this style the back side of the dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs. This style is more commonly worn by farmers and martial artists. [13] [14]

Names and styles

Relief depicting men in anatariya and uttariya, 1st century CE. In Welcome of Buddha - ACCN 34-2542 - Government Museum - Mathura 2013-02-24 5941.JPG
Relief depicting men in anatariya and uttariya, 1st century CE.
Female dancer dressed as Krishna in yellow dhoti. A Manipuri Dancer in traditional Krishna attire.jpg
Female dancer dressed as Krishna in yellow dhoti.

The garment is known by various names based on language, such as:

Native ScriptTransliterationLanguage or region
धोतीDhotī Pali, Hindi
मर्दानीMardānīHindi
ଧୋତିDhotī Odia
ਚਾਦਰਾChaadra Punjabi
ધૉતિયુDhotiyu Gujarati
धोतरDhotara a Marathi
চুৰিয়া, ধুতিSuriya,Dhuti Assamese
ধুতিDhuti Bengali
ಧೋತ್ರ
ಕಚ್ಚೆ ಪಂಚೆ
Dhotra
Kachche Panche
Kannada
धोंतर,
आंगोस्तर,
आड नेसचे,
पुडवे
Dhontara,
Āṅgostara,
Āḍa nesace
puḍave
Konkani
മുണ്ട്Muṇṭ‌ Malayalam
పంచ, ధోవతిPancha, Dhovathi Telugu
வேட்டிVaetti Tamil
دھوتیDhoti Urdu
a In Marathi, a dhotar is not the same as a pancha (plural panche).
While the former is worn around the waist, the latter is normally
a towel used after bathing (compare below).

Custom and usage

Indian Relief of Ashoka, circa 1st century BC, from the Amaravathi village, Guntur district, Andhra Pradesh (India), in the Guimet Museum (Paris).jpg
A Chakravati wears a pancha in an ancient style. First century BCE/CE. Amaravathi village, Guntur district (Musee Guimet).
Didarganj Yakshi statue in the Bihar Museum.jpg
The Didarganj Yakshi depicting the dhoti wrap.

The pancha is worn by many conservative Jain men when they visit Derasars or Basadis for puja; unstitched clothing is believed by some Jains to be "less permeable to pollution" and therefore more appropriate for religious rituals than other garments. [15] They also wear a loose and unstitched cloth, shorter than the pancha on top.

A Benaresi man in dhoti with a kurta of Central Asian culture, at Uttar Pradesh. Water pump, Varanasi (15563170660) Cropped.jpg
A Benaresi man in dhoti with a kurta of Central Asian culture, at Uttar Pradesh.

Hare Krishna, known for its distinctive dress code, prompts Western adherents to wear pancha, usually of saffron or white cloth folded in the traditional Bengali style. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi was known for wearing a white silk dhoti. [16]

The dhoti has been ethnically worn by farmers, pehlwano (wrestlers) and shepherds (grazers) of the Sikhs in the Punjab region; it was discouraged during the Punjab Subah Movement, owing it to the inter-communal tensions prevalent at the time. [17] [18] The dhothi was also worn by South Canarese Christian men to their pre-nup ceremonies, Church weddings & receptions until the 1960s, when they fell out of favour; since then grooms have been styling the black suit and tie instead. [19]

A man in dhoti paired with the central asian kurta, Rajasthan. A Rajasthani farmer in dhoti and traditional head dress.jpg
A man in dhoti paired with the central asian kurta, Rajasthan.

There's a distinction between the lungi, a similar garment often worn by people at their homes, as it is more casual and comfortable, dhoti is sometimes even worn by secular politicians. [20]

M K Gandhi in 1935. Gandhi Salt March.jpg
M K Gandhi in 1935.

At the height of the Indian Independence Movement, weaving was a symbol of the Swadeshi Movement . In 1921, the famed M K Gandhi himself championed only the dhoti often topless and without a kurta, to promote and identify with the weaves and handicrafts, produced by the rural and the poor of his homeland. [21] [22] [23]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Draped garment</span> Any item of clothing made from a length of cloth wrapped, folded, pinned, or tied around the body

A draped garment is a garment that is made of a single piece of cloth that is draped around the body; drapes are not cut away or stitched as in a tailored garment. Drapes can be held to the body by means of knotting, pinning, fibulae, clasps, sashes, belts, tying drawstrings, or just plain friction and gravity alone. Many draped garments consist of only one single piece.

<i>Kurta</i> Various forms of loose and long shirts or tunics worn traditionally in South Asia

A kurta is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, and now also worn around the world. Tracing its roots to Central Asian nomadic tunics, or upper body garments, of the late-ancient- or early-medieval era, the kurta has evolved stylistically over the centuries, especially in South Asia, as a garment for everyday wear as well as for formal occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sarong</span> Traditional garment of the Malay Archipelago and the Pacific Islands

A sarong or a sarung is a large tube or length of fabric, often wrapped around the waist, worn in Southeast Asia, South Asia, Western Asia, Northern Africa, East Africa, West Africa, and on many Pacific islands. The fabric often has woven plaid or checkered patterns, or may be brightly colored by means of batik or ikat dyeing. Many modern sarongs have printed designs, often depicting animals or plants. Different types of sarongs are worn in different places in the world, notably the lungi in the Indian subcontinent and the izaar in the Arabian Peninsula.

Clothing in India varies with the different ethnicities, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Historically, clothing has evolved from simple garments like kaupina, langota, achkan, lungi, sari, to rituals and dance performances. In urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all social levels. India also has a great diversity in terms of weaves, fibers, colors, and the material of clothing. Sometimes, color codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing in India also encompasses a wide variety of Indian embroidery, prints, handwork, embellishments, and styles of wearing clothes. A wide mix of Indian traditional clothing and western styles can be seen in India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lungi</span> Type of sarong in South Asia

The lungi is a type of sarong that originated in the Bengal, Indian subcontinent. The lungi, which usually multicoloured, is a men's skirt usually tied around the lower waist below the navel. it can be worn as casual wear and night wear, in places and climates where the heat and humidity increase sweating, and make it unpleasant or uncomfortable to wear closed and tight clothes such as trousers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mundu</span> Traditional draped garment for the lower body, worn in South Asia and the Maldives

The mundu is a garment worn around the waist in the Indian states of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, the Lakshadweep archipelago, and the Indian Ocean island nation of Maldives. It is closely related to sarongs like dhotis and lungis. It is normally woven in cotton and coloured white or cream. The colour is dependent on whether the cotton is bleached or unbleached. A khadaṟ muṇṭŭ is made using handlooms. When unbleached, the mundu is called nēriyatu. In modern times, two types of mundu are prevalent—the single and the double. A single mundu is wrapped only once around the waist, while the double one is folded in half before wearing. A mundu is usually starched before use.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mundum neriyatum</span> Traditional clothing of women in Kerala

Mundum neriyatum is the traditional clothing of women in Kerala, a state in southwestern India. It is the oldest remnant of the ancient form of the sari which covered only the lower part of the body. In the mundum neriyatum, the most basic traditional piece is the mundu or lower garment which is the ancient form of the sari denoted in Malayalam as tuṇi, while the nēriyatu forms the upper garment the mundu. The mundum neriyatum consists of two pieces of cloth, and could be worn in either the traditional style with the nēriyatu tucked inside the blouse, or in the modern style with the nēriyatu worn over the left shoulder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Uttariya</span> Upper body garment of Vedic period

An uttariya is a loose piece of upper body clothing with its origins in ancient India. It is a single piece of cloth that falls from the back of the neck to curl around both arms and could also drape the top half of the body. An uttariya is similar to a veil, a long scarf and shawl. The Vedas describe the garment to comprise various loose cloths worn for upper body such as upavasana, parayanahana and adhivasa, varhatika and varnaka, uttarsanghasamvyana.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Malaysian cultural outfits</span> Malaysian clothing

Pakaian is the term for clothing in Malaysia's national language. It is referring to things to wear such as shirts, pants, shoes etc. Since Malaysia is a multicultural nation: Malay, Chinese, Indian and hundreds of other indigenous groups of Malay peninsula and Borneo, each has its own traditional and religious articles of clothing all of which are gender-specific and may be adapted to local influences and conditions. Previously, traditional clothes were worn daily. However, by excluding Baju Melayu, Baju Kurung many are now only worn on special occasions such as marriage ceremonies and cultural events.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Khmer traditional clothing</span>

Khmer traditional clothing refers to the traditional styles of dress worn by the Khmer people from ancient times to the present.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ghagra choli</span> Traditional clothing of women from Indian Subcontinent

Ghagra choli is a type of ethnic clothing for women from the Indian Subcontinent, notably in the Indian states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Haryana, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Jammu and Kashmir, as well as in the Pakistani provinces of Punjab and Sindh. In Punjab, the lehenga is traditionally worn with a kurti. It is a combination of the gagra or lehenga and the choli (blouse), however in contemporary and modern usage lehenga choli is the more popular and widely accepted term by fashion designers, trend setters, and boutiques in South Asia, since ghagra is synonymous with the half-slip worn as an undergarment below the sari.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sompot Chong Kben</span> Wrapped and draped pants of Southeast Asia

Sompot Chong Kben is a unisex, lower body, wraparound cloth worn in the countries of Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand. It is the preferred choice of clothing for women of upper and middle classes for daily wear. Unlike the typical sompot, it is more of a pant than a skirt. The chong kraben is described by art historian Eksuda Singhalampong as "...a garment that resembles loose breeches. The wearer wraps a rectangular piece of cloth around his [or her] waist, the edge of cloth is then passed between the legs and tucked in at the wearer's lower back. Many 19th-century European accounts often called them knee breeches, riding breeches or knickerbockers."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shalwar kameez</span> Trousers and tunic worn in South Asia

Shalwar kameez is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia.

Salwar or Shalwar is cloth worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately. It is the lower-garment of the Shalwar kameez suit which is widely-worn in South Asia. It is known for its lively hues, rich fabrics, and embroidery. It is also the national dress of Pakistan, and since the later 1960s with the salwar being used in government offices in Pakistan. The outfit has been a part of Punjabi tradition for centuries. Salwar can be distinguished to the Punjabi suthan which is shorter than the salwar. Salwar originated in Central Asia and its use spread to South Asia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi Tamba and Kurta</span> Type of sarong and shirt, traditional costume in Punjab

Punjabi Kurta and Tamba are traditional costume for men of Punjab.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi clothing</span> Clothing style associated with people of the Punjab region

In the ancient Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length tops. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both male and female wore a dhoti around the waist. Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.

Sindhi clothing, Both Sindhi women and men wear the shalwar qameez or the kurta with pyjama. Women also wear sari or ghagra. However, before the adoption of the Shalwar kameez and the kurta, the sari as well as other articles of clothing, Sindhis had their own traditional costumes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent</span> Aspect of history

History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent can be traced to the Indus Valley civilization or earlier. Indians have mainly worn clothing made up of locally grown cotton. India was one of the first places where cotton was cultivated and used even as early as 2500 BCE during the Harappan era. The remnants of the ancient Indian clothing can be found in the figurines discovered from the sites near the Indus Valley civilisation, the rock-cut sculptures, the cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. These scriptures view the figures of human wearing clothes which can be wrapped around the body. Taking the instances of the sari to that of turban and the dhoti, the traditional Indian wears were mostly tied around the body in various ways.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Angavastra</span> Shoulder cloth

An angavastra is a shoulder cloth or stole worn by men in India, especially in Maharashtra and South India. It is a single, rectangular piece of fabric and may have decorated borders. An angavastra may be worn with a dhoti and kurta. An angavastra may be offered as a mark of respect to guests, elders and gurus.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Veshti</span> Cloth wrap for the lower body

A veshti, also known as vēṭṭi, is a white unstitched cloth wrap for the lower body in Tamil Nadu and in the North and East of Sri Lanka. Vēṭṭi is a part of the traditional attire consisting of Kurta and Angvastra. The garment is a single piece of cloth and similar to the dhoti, one of the earliest draped garments of India. A vēṭṭi is often layered with horizontal stripes or borders across its length.

References

  1. "What is Veshti". Rhythm Dhotis. 2020.
  2. Company, Fideler (1960). Life in Other Lands. Fideler. p. 78. Retrieved 3 January 2021. It is arranged to look like a pair of baggy trousers. This garment is called a dhoti and is usually made of cotton.
  3. Bhandari, Vandana (2005). Costume, Textiles and Jewellery [i.e. Jewelry] of India: Traditions in Rajasthan. Mercury Books. p. 105. ISBN   9781904668893 . Retrieved 3 January 2021. One of the reasons for the dhoti's enduring popularity is its loose trouser - like form, which is convenient and extremely well - suited to the tropical Indian climate .
  4. K Parker, Lewis (1994). India. Rourke Book Company. p. 14. ISBN   9781559160056 . Retrieved 3 January 2021. Boys and men often wear a dhoti. This is a piece of white cloth wound around the waist. Dhotis look like comfortable, baggy pants.
  5. "Indian Dhoti". Indian Mirror. Archived from the original on 29 July 2020. Retrieved 3 January 2021.
  6. Avasthi, Vivek (14 January 2020). "Sarees for women, dhoti for men: Officer's dress code for Kashi temple irks minister". The Federal. Archived from the original on 5 August 2020. Retrieved 3 January 2021.
  7. Henry, Baden Powell (1872). Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab (etc.): Forming ... to the hand-book of the economic products of the Punjab. Engineering College Press. pp. 65, 67.
  8. Birdwood, George Christopher Molesworth (1884). The Industrial Arts of India. Chapman and Hall. p. 363.
  9. "Doting Upon the Return of Dhoti Pants". 12 November 2018.
  10. "Latest Fashion, Trends and Style for Dhoti Kurta for Girls". 16 May 2022.
  11. "What are dhoti pants".
  12. Govind Sadashiv Ghurye (1951) Indian Costume
  13. Indian Costume by Govind Sadashiv Ghurye 1966
  14. Ancient Indian Costume By Roshen Alkazi 1996
  15. Cort, John E (2001). Jains in the World: Religious Values and Ideology in India. Oxford University Press. p. 221. doi:10.1093/0195132343.001.0001. ISBN   9780195132342.
  16. Koppel, Lily (February 6, 2008). "Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, a Guide On the Beatles' Spiritual Path, Dies". New York Times. p. C.10.
  17. Brard, Gurnam Singh Sidhu (2007). East of Indus: My Memories of Old Punjab. Hemkunt Press. ISBN   9788170103608.
  18. Lamba, Krishan Gopal (1999). Dynamics of Punjabi Suba Movement. Deep & Deep Publications. ISBN   9788176291293.
  19. Silva, Severine; Fuchs, Stephen (1965). "The Marriage Customs of the Christians in South Canara, India". Asian Folklore Studies. 24 (2): 1–52. doi:10.2307/1177555. JSTOR   1177555.
  20. McLain, Sean (2014-07-23). "No Dhotis Please, We're Indian". Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 2017-11-03.
  21. Sankaralingam, Sathrukkan (2020-09-02). "Gandhi - Weaving a nation together". Minister White Blog. Retrieved 2020-09-02.
  22. "What made Gandhiji wear only Loincloth or Dhoti". pib.gov.in. Retrieved 2021-10-07.
  23. "Importance of Veshties in Tamil Culture". Ramraj Cotton. Retrieved 2022-07-13.