Edurne Pasaban

Last updated
Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar
Edurne Pasaban recibe el Premio Vasco Universal 2010 4 (crop).jpg
Born (1973-08-01) 1 August 1973 (age 47)
Occupation Mountaineering.
Website http://www.edurnepasaban.com
Poster with Edurne Pasaban Valla de Edurne Pasaban en la nueva campana de Turismo de Euskadi.jpg
Poster with Edurne Pasaban

Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar (born August 1, 1973) is a Basque Spanish mountaineer. On May 17, 2010, she became the 21st person and the first woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World. [1] Her first 8,000 peak had been achieved 9 years earlier, on May 23, 2001, when she climbed to the summit of Mount Everest.

Contents

Life and career

Pasaban was born in Tolosa, in the province of Gipuzkoa in the Basque Autonomous Community, Spain. She summited her ninth eight-thousander, Broad Peak, on July 12, 2007, together with the Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. On May 1, 2008, Pasaban summited Dhaulagiri, as did Kaltenbrunner the same day again. Both downplayed the aspect of a race between them for the first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. On May 18, 2009, Pasaban climbed the Kangchenjunga with, among others, Juanito Oiarzabal and the Polish climber Kinga Baranowska. With that she exceeded Kaltenbrunner and Nives Meroi and she became the first woman to climb twelve eight-thousanders. [2] Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner equaled her two days later when summited Lhotse. Nives Meroi, an Italian climber, then tried to achieve the summit in the Kangchenjunga, but was forced to abandon the climb when her husband and fellow climber, Romano Benet, began suffering health problems during the ascent.

On April 17, 2010, she added Annapurna to her record, [3] and proceeded directly thereafter to climb Shishapangma, where she completed her quest on May 17. [4]

On April 27, 2010, it was announced that Pasaban might have lost out on becoming the first woman to climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks to Korean climber Oh Eun-sun. [5] However, Pasaban and other experts disputed Oh's summit of Kangchenjunga. [6] Following a conversation between Elizabeth Hawley and Pasaban, Hawley announced that Oh's summit would be marked as "disputed" in future editions of her Himalayan database. [7] On May 3, Oh had an hour long discussion with Hawley in Kathmandu, in which she asked Oh about the details of her Kangchenjunga climb. [8] "Oh will be credited for her climb to Kangchenjunga but the ascent will be marked as disputed," Hawley later told the press. [8] "Her account was completely different from Pasaban's so I really don't know who is right," she added. [8] Hawley reportedly said the Kangchenjunga entry will be switched back to "successful" if the Spanish team withdraws its allegations. [9] Rejecting Pasaban's claims, Oh added, "I believe that according to Pasaban, some Sherpas told her that I hadn't climbed Kangchenjunga. But no names of the Sherpas have been mentioned. Why?" [8] On May 4, 2010 Pasaban mentioned the names of the seven Sherpas involved: "Dawa Ongchu Sherpa, Pema Chiring Sherpa, Chheji Nurbu Sherpa, Dawa Sangge Sherpa, Ong Darchi Sherpa, Cuombi Sherpa and Phurdorchi Sherpa." [10] She declined to give these names earlier as these Sherpas were still working for the Korean climber. Later Pasaban conceded that she was the second woman to climb the 14 highest peaks, but questioned whether the Korean climber had actually conquered them all. [11]

However, on August 29, 2010, it was announced that the South Korean Hiking Federation, after examining the proofs presented by Oh, had refused to acknowledge her Kangchenjunga ascent, accepting the sherpas' version according to which Oh was not able to complete the ascent due to bad weather conditions. [12] [13] [14] Oh later admitted that she had to stop a few hundred meters below the Kangchenjunga summit, and therefore the mountaineering site ExplorersWeb considered on December 10, 2010 that Edurne Pasaban is the first woman that has climbed all fourteen peaks. [1] This would settle down the polemic in favour of Pasaban. [15]

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Nives Meroi are the two other female climbers who have summited all 8,000 meter peaks.

Eight-thousanders climbed

Related Research Articles

Kangchenjunga Third highest mountain in the world, in Nepal and India

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, is the third highest mountain in the world. It rises with an elevation of 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas called Kangchenjunga Himal delimited in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies between Nepal and Sikkim, India, with three of the five peaks directly on the border, and the remaining two in Nepal's Taplejung District.

Cho Oyu mountain in Asia

Cho Oyu is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at 8,188 metres (26,864 ft) above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the China–Nepal border.

Eight-thousander Peaks higher than 8,000 m

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation or UIAA recognise eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent from neighbouring peaks. However, there is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

Dhaulagiri Mountain in Nepal; 7th highest in world

The Dhaulagiri massif in Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River west to the Bheri. This massif is bounded on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri River and on the southeast by the Myagdi Khola. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.

Alan Hinkes British Himalayan mountaineer

Alan Hinkes OBE is an English Himalayan high-altitude mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. He is the first and remains the only, British mountaineer to claim all 14 Himalayan eight-thousanders, which he did on 30 May 2005.

Elizabeth Hawley Journalist and chronicler of Nepal Himalayan expeditions

Elizabeth Hawley was an American journalist, author, and chronicler of Himalayan mountaineering expeditions. Hawley's The Himalayan Database became the unofficial record for climbs in the Nepalese Himalaya. She was also the honorary consul in Nepal for New Zealand.

Benoît Chamoux was a French Alpinist, who claimed to have summited 13 of the Eight-thousanders in the Himalayas.

Artur Hajzer Polish mountain climber

Artur Henryk Hajzer was a Polish mountaineer. Hajzer climbed seven eight-thousanders, several via new routes and made the first winter climb of Annapurna on February 3, 1987. He also summited Annapurna East (8010m) via a new route up the SE face in 1988. All these climbs were done together with Jerzy Kukuczka, without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. Artur also attempted Lhotse South Face three times, reaching 8200 m in 1985, 8300 m in 1987 and 7200 m in 1989. He also organised a rescue operation on Mount Everest’s West Ridge for Andrzej Marciniak in 1989. On September 30, 2011, he summited Makalu with Adam Bielecki and Tomasz Wolfart. In July 2013 he died after falling in the Japanese Coloir after an attempt to reach the summit of Gasherbrum I.

Nives Meroi Italian mountaineer

Nives Meroi is an Italian mountaineer. As of 2017, she had climbed to the summit of all fourteen eight thousanders, utilizing the alpine style of climbing.

Andrew James Lock OAM is an Australian high-altitude mountaineer. He became the first, and still remains the only, Australian to climb all 14 "eight-thousanders" on 2 October 2009, and is the 18th person to ever complete this feat. He climbed 13 of the 14 without using bottled oxygen, only using it on Mount Everest, which he has summited twice. He retired from eight-thousander climbing in 2012.

Kinga Baranowska Polish mountaineer

Kinga Baranowska is a Polish mountaineer. She made ascents of eight eight-thousanders and is the first Polish woman to have climbed Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Kangchenjunga. She currently lives in Warsaw.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Austrian mountaineer

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders and the first woman to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen or high altitude porters. In 2012, she won the prestigious National Geographic Explorer of the Year Award.

Cristina "El Grio" Castagna was an Italian mountaineer and the first Italian woman to climb Makalu. She was born in San Quirico di Valdagno. She died in 2009 on Broad Peak, after reaching the summit.

Oh Eun-sun South Korean mountain climber

Oh Eun-sun is a South Korean mountaineer. She was the first Korean woman to climb the Seven Summits. On April 27, 2010, she reached the summit of Annapurna; upon doing so, she claimed to have climbed all fourteen eight-thousanders, which would have made her the first woman to achieve this feat. However, her claim to have ascended Kangchenjunga was disputed by multiple experts. Oh later admitted that she had stopped a few meters before the summit of Kangchenjunga, and so the Korean Alpine Federation ruled that she had not summited. The mountaineering site ExplorersWeb considered that Edurne Pasaban is the first woman to have successfully climbed all fourteen peaks.

Go Mi-young, was a South Korean female mountaineer.

Alberto Iñurrategi Spanish mountaineer

Alberto Iñurrategi Iriarte is a Basque Spanish mountaineer born in Aretxabaleta, Gipuzkoa, Basque Country (Spain), 3 November 1968. In the year 2002, he became the second Spaniard and Basque and 10th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.

Ralf Dujmovits is a German mountaineer. In May 2009 he became the 16th person, and the first German, to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.

References

  1. 1 2 ExWeb Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne, ExplorersWeb, Dec 10, 2010
  2. Top-5 women to reach more eight-thousanders, with dates
  3. "Annapurna summit push watch: SUMMITS!". Explorersweb. 2010-04-17. Retrieved 2010-08-31.
  4. "Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits - completes the 14x8000ers". Explorersweb. 2010-05-17. Retrieved 2010-08-31.
  5. Stephen Mulvey (2010-04-27). "Is Korean Oh Eun-sun first woman to climb 14 top peaks?". BBC News . Retrieved 2010-08-31.
  6. Spanish TV, Photo of Oh Eun-Sun at Kangchenjunga, which has created serious doubts (in Spanish)
  7. "Korean woman climber's Himalayan record challenged". BBC News. 2010-04-23.
  8. 1 2 3 4 Sophia Tamot (AFP) "S.Korean climber defends claim to 14-peak record" May 3, 2010 Retrieved on 2010-05-12.
  9. Chosun Daily "Mountaineer Oh Eun-sun Meets Arbiter of Himalaya Ascents" May 4, 2010 Retrieved on 2010-05-15.
  10. Pasaban da los nombres de los sherpas que dicen que Miss Oh no hizo cumbre (in Spanish)
  11. "Spanish climber concedes she is second woman to climb world's 14 highest peaks", Telegraph.co.uk 23 May 2010 Retrieved on 27 May 2010
  12. "First woman to climb world's highest peaks stripped of title". The Telegraph . Telegraph.co.uk. 2010-08-27. Retrieved 2011-05-14.
  13. "S.Korea rejects woman's world-record climbing claim". channelnewsasia.com. 2010-08-27. Retrieved 2011-05-14.
  14. "Pasaban se acerca a su cumbre más difícil". Eurosport (in Spanish). Yahoo. 2010-08-29. Retrieved 2010-08-31.
  15. Ángel Cruz (2010-08-31). "La notaria del Himalaya corona a Edurne Pasaban" (in Spanish). As . Retrieved 2010-08-31.
Awards
Preceded by
Marta Domínguez
Spanish Sportswoman of the Year
2010
Succeeded by
Marina Alabau