Ernest Daltroff

Last updated
Ernest Daltroff
Ernest Léon René Lucien Daltroff

(1867-11-17)November 17, 1867
DiedFebruary 3, 1941(1941-02-03) (aged 73)
  • Perfumeur
  • entrepreneur
Known forFounding Parfums Caron

Ernest Daltroff, (November 17, 1867, Sainte-Cécile, Saône-et-Loire - February 3, 1941, New York) , was a French perfumer and the founder of Parfums Caron in 1904.



Ernest Léon René Lucien Daltroff was born to an upper middle class family originally from Russia. His mother Ida-Caroline Bing, an elegant lady, used to put a drop of her perfume behind her son's ears before bed as a child. [1]

In his youth Ernest Daltroff travelled and then worked in the clothing industry. In 1900, he visited the Exposition Universelle. [2]

Shortly after, as he memorised the captivating scents of flowers, fruits and spices and developed an exceptional olfactory memory, without any formal training, he chose to embark on the profession of perfumer. [1]

In 1903, with his brother Raoul, he established a workshop in Asnières-sur-Seine in the former perfumery "Emilia", 12 avenue de la Lauzière. Then in 1904, at the age of thirty-seven, he set up his company in premises located in the heart of Paris, at 10 rue de la Paix. Already planning to reach an international market, [3] he partly adopted the name of the small "Mercerie Parfumerie Caron" at 20 rue Rossini (9th arrondissement of Paris), bought from Madame Anne-Marie Caron on 1 August 1903. He chose "Parfums Caron", a short name easily remembered and pronounced in several languages while still being associated with France, rather than his own foreign sounding name, in a country still troubled by the Dreyfus affair. [4]

In 1906, he met Félicie Wanpouille, a young milliner who worked on the same rue de la Paix; She introduced him to her clients and became his collaborator and muse.

While Daltroff created fragrances, Wanpouille designed bottles and served as an artistic director, [5] together they launched great women's perfumes such as Narcisse Noir in 1911, N'aimez Que Moi in 1917.

After World War I, in 1918, Ernest Daltroff was invited to attend the Bronx International Exposition of Science, Arts and Industries in New York with his competitor François Coty. He won the prize for the most go ahead company, which opened up the American market for him during the inter-war period. [6]

Many creations followed, including: Tabac Blond, En Avion, Fleurs De Rocaille and Nuit de Noël; [7] In his innovative palette, like François Coty, Daltroff often incorporated the bases produced by Mr. Naef and the Fabriques de Laire, in particular Mousse de Saxe. [8]

In 1923 a Caron boutique was opened on Fifth Avenue in New York. [9] [10] In 1932, Daltroff marries Madeleine Briet (1988-1987), [11] and in 1934, Ernest Daltroff, who was always convinced that a man should wear perfume, launched Pour Un Homme, at a time, when men mainly used cologne.

In 1939, the rise of antisemitism led Ernest Daltroff to take refuge in the United States, [12] arriving early 1940 on board The Manhattan and registering at Ellis Island. [13] In France, Félicie took over the reins of the house until 1962 with Michel Morsetti, a perfumer trained by Daltroff. Ernest Daltroff never returned to Europe, and died in New York on February 3, 1941. He is resting in the Quogue Cemetery, New York. [14]


In 2000, in homage to Ernest Daltroff, perfumer Richard Fraysse created for the house of Caron, Lady Caron presented in a bottle engraved with the Statue of Liberty. "The challenge was, fifty years later, to imagine what Daltroff would have liked to create for the American woman".

Ernest Daltroff is described by Nathalie Chahine as the most subtle perfumer of his time whose work was closest to that of painters and musicians. [15] His legacy continues in the world of perfume and still influences modern perfumers, says Michael Edwards. [16]

Related Research Articles

François Coty French perfumer, businessman and newspaper publisher

François Coty was a French perfumer and businessman. During World War I, he became one of the wealthiest men in France. He gained control in 1922 of daily newspaper Le Figaro. To check the growth of French socialism and Communism, he founded two other daily papers in 1928. In later years his wealth was much reduced. The company he founded in 1904 is now Coty, Inc., based in New York City.

Chanel No. 5 Perfume by Coco Chanel

Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921. The scent formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. The design of its bottle has been an important part of the product's allure. Coco Chanel was the first face of the fragrance, appearing in the advertisement published by Harper's Bazaar in 1937.

Guerlain french company

Guerlain is a French perfume, cosmetics and skincare house, which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the "Guerlinade". The house was founded in Paris in 1828 by the perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. It was run by the Guerlain family until 1994, when it was bought by the French multinational company LVMH. Its flagship store is 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris.

Parfums Caron French perfume brand

Parfums Caron is a French perfume house founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff. Over the course of the years, many Caron Perfumes were created. In 2019, the brand belongs to Luxembourg based Cattleya.

Maurice Roucel perfumer

Maurice Roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies IFF, Quest, Dragoco and presently Symrise. Roucel began his career in perfumery on February 19, 1973 while working as the head chromatography chemist at Chanel for 6 years. He commenced his apprenticeship under Henri Robert, Chanel's house perfumer at the time. He joined Quest International and for 12 years developed his craft as a perfumer before switching to work for Symrise in 1996. Most of the fragrances composed by Roucel have his signature scent of Michelia longifolia.

Olivia Giacobetti French perfumer

Olivia Giacobetti is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined style as well as innovation such as her novel use of fig in perfumery, popularizing the note beginning in the mid-1990s. She is among the perfumers who became prominent in a late-20th and early-21st-century turn toward the "nose" behind the scent and independent lines that foreground these creators, a shift away from perfumes sold by fashion labels or celebrities in other fields.

Houbigant Parfum is a perfume manufacturer founded in Paris, France in 1775 by Jean-François Houbigant of Grasse (1752–1807). The brand originally sold gloves, perfumes, and bridal bouquets. The original shop, called "A la Corbeille de Fleurs", was at 19, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Over the centuries, the House of Houbigant became perfumer to the royal courts of Europe including Napoleon, Napoleon III, Alexander III of Russia, and Queen Victoria.

Ernest Beaux Russian-French perfumer

Ernest Beaux was a Russian-born French perfumer who is best known for creating Chanel No. 5, which is perhaps the world's most famous perfume.

The Musée du Parfum, also known as the Fragonard Musée du Parfum, is a French private museum of perfume located at 9 rue Scribe, in the 9th arrondissement of Paris.

Henri Robert is a French perfumer and chemist, he is best known for his role as Chief Perfumer at Les Parfums Chanel from 1953–1978.

Jean Kerléo is a French perfumer who worked in-house of Jean Patou and is also the founder of the Osmothèque, a scent archive in Versailles. Kerleo was born on 24 February 1932 in Brittany, France. At age 22, he began making perfumes for a New York City company, Helena Rubenstein. He received the Prix des Parfumeurs de France in 1965, served as the president for the Society of French Perfumers from 1976 to 1979, and was awarded the Prix François COTY in 2001

Heat (perfume) perfume endorsed by Beyoncé

Heat is a perfume endorsed by Beyoncé. It was created by her alongside Claude Dir and Olivier Gillotin of the company Givaudan. The product, which was released on February 3, 2010, uses the tagline "catch the fever". The release was promoted with a cover version of "Fever" recorded by Beyoncé and a limited edition extended play (EP) also titled Heat. She also appeared at Macy's Herald Square to launch the perfume and on The Today Show where she discussed about Heat.

Francis Kurkdjian is a French contemporary perfumer and businessman of Armenian descent. and winner of the Prix François Coty in 2001 for his lifetime achievement. He was made famous at age 26 for designing the scent of Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the world's best selling perfumes. This was followed by an additional forty creations for major perfume companies worldwide. Some of these creations include the Elie Saab Le Parfum, My Burberry (Burberry), L'extase and Narciso Rodriguez for her. In 2009, he co-founded luxury fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian with the Lebanese-French businessman and former Ernst & Young partner Marc Chaya, now a major global player in the luxury niche fragrance segment.

Osmothèque perfume formulas archive library

The Osmothèque is the world's largest scent archive, a leading international research institution tracing the history of perfumery, based in Versailles with conference centers in New York City and Paris. Founded in 1990 by Jean Kerléo and other senior perfumers including Jean-Claude Ellena and Guy Robert, the Osmothèque is internationally responsible for the authentication, registration, preservation, documentation and reproduction of thousands of perfumes gathered from the past two millennia, archived at the Osmothèque repository and consultable by the public.

Still Jennifer Lopez fragrance

Still Jennifer Lopez is a women's fragrance endorsed by American entertainer Jennifer Lopez, released by Coty, Inc. in October 2003. The fragrance contains notes of sake, mandarin, early grey, pink freesia, honeysuckle, orange flower, sandalwood, amber and orris. Still Jennifer Lopez followed in the footsteps of Glow by JLo, an international success that shaped the fragrance industry and began a trend in the celebrity endorsement of fragrance. The release of Still Jennifer Lopez was not anticipated due to the negative publicity generated from Lopez's film Gigli (2003) and a fall-out with her manager Benny Medina. Several fragrance industry experts noted that it could ruin the success of Glow by JLo. It was also noted that her public image at the time would have irreparable effects on the fragrance's performance.

Jacques Guerlain perfumer

Jacques Edouard Guerlain was a French perfumer, the third and most famous of the Guerlain family. One of the most prolific and influential perfumers of the 20th century, over eighty of Guerlain's perfumes remain known, though certain estimates suggest he composed some four hundred. Among his greatest fragrances are L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919) and Shalimar (1925). Though his work earned him universal renown, a considerable fortune and honours such as that of Chevalier of the Legion of Honour, Guerlain avoided public attention, never once granting an interview. As a result, relatively little is known of his creative process or personal life.

Glowing by JLo

Glowing by JLo is a women's fragrance endorsed by American entertainer Jennifer Lopez. It was created by Givaudan's Calice Becker and Caroline Sabas. It was released through Coty on May 10, 2012. It was released ten years after her initial fragrance, Glow by JLo (2002) and was also in turn her tenth anniversary with Coty. Prior to its release, Lopez called it a homage and the "evolution of Glow". The bottle was noted for lighting up when in use and Lopez has promoted the fragrance through her music video for "Dance Again".

Killer Queen by Katy Perry is a fragrance created by American singer Katy Perry and Coty Inc. The fragrance was released in 2013, and follows her first two fragrances Purr and Meow!. The perfume comes in a box that is red with gold touches, and the bottle is shaped like a red ruby. "Killer Queen" is drawn from the song of the same name by Queen. In the years following the release of the scent, several variations were released with subtitles.

Bourjois is a French cosmetics company currently owned by the American group Coty Inc. Bourjois creates make-up, fragrance and skincare products, which are sold in approximately 26 000 points of sales in more than 80 countries worldwide, as of 2015.

Love and Glamour

Love and Glamour is a women's eau de toilette fragrance endorsed by American entertainer Jennifer Lopez.


  1. 1 2 Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg (2000). Caron. Milan (fr/en). ISBN   9782841138616.
  2. Annick Le-Guérer (2005). Le Parfum : des origines à nos jours (in French). Odile Jacob. pp. 198–199–200. ISBN   9782738187833.
  3. Susan Irvine (1995). Perfume. Random House Value Publishing. p. 102. ISBN   9780517141595.
  4. Jean Watin-Augouard (2009). Marques de luxe françaises (in French). Eyrolles. p. 66. ISBN   9782212544930.
  5. Perfume, bottlers : Vanpouille, Félicie.
  6. Nigel Groom (1997). New Perfume Handbook. Springer Science & Business Media. p. 53. ISBN   9780751404036.
  7. Advertisement in Arts & Decoration, Volumes 21-22, Artspur publications, Incorporated, 1924, page 64.
  8. Perfumer Signatures: Part 1~Jaques Guerlain, Francois Coty and Ernest Daltroff “Guerlinade, Chypre, and Mousse de Saxe”, January 22, 2017,
  9. Geoffrey Jones (2010). Beauty Imagined : A history of the global Beauty industry. Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 107. ISBN   9780199556496.
  10. Arts & Decoration, Volumes 21-22, 1924, p. 64
  11. (fr) Paris archives, 1932, Mariages : November 24 to December 31, cote 8M 270, 8th arrondissement, page 18, acte 950.
  12. "Ernest Daltroff, Perfumers Directory - Luckyscent". Retrieved 17 December 2017.
  13. Passenger result on
  14. Find a
  15. Nathalie Chahine (2000). Beauty: The Twentieth Century. Universe. p. 336. ISBN   9780789305121.
  16. Michael Edwards. Perfume Legends : French feminine fragrances. Michael Edwards, 1996. ISBN   9780646277943.