Iñaki Ochoa de Olza

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Iñaki Ochoa de Olza (May 29, 1967 in Pamplona, Navarre May 23, 2008 in Annapurna, Nepal) was a Spanish mountaineer, alpinist and climber. Ochoa de Olza took part in more than thirty separate climbing expeditions in the Himalayas over the course of his career, and he was involved in more than 200 expeditions as a guide. [1] His records included climbing 12 of the world's 14 tallest mountains (repeating one of them, Cho Oyu) [2] without the aid of oxygen. [3] Ochoa went on record as saying that he did not believe in using oxygen to climb mountains, claiming "if you use oxygen, you are not an alpinist, you are more of an astronaut or a scuba diver." [1] . He died of pulmonary edema in May 2008 while attempting to climb Annapurna (which would have been his 13th eight thousander).

Pamplona Place in Navarre, Spain

Pamplona or Iruña is the capital city of the Autonomous Community of Navarre, in Spain, and historically also of the former Kingdom of Navarre. Pamplona is also the second largest city in the greater Basque cultural region, composed of two Spanish autonomous communities, Navarre and Basque Country, and the French Basque Country.

Navarre Autonomous community and province of Spain

Navarre, officially the Chartered Community of Navarre, is an autonomous community and province in northern Spain, bordering the Basque Autonomous Community, La Rioja, and Aragon in Spain and Nouvelle-Aquitaine in France. The capital city is Pamplona.

Nepal A landlocked country in the Himalayas

Nepal, officially Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is located mainly in the Himalayas, but also includes parts of the Indo-Gangetic Plain. With an estimated population of 26.4 million, it is 48th largest country by population and 93rd largest country by area. It borders China in the north and India in the south, east and west while Bangladesh is located within only 27 km (17 mi) of its southeastern tip and Bhutan is separated from it by the Indian state of Sikkim. Nepal has a diverse geography, including fertile plains, subalpine forested hills, and eight of the world's ten tallest mountains, including Mount Everest, the highest point on Earth. Kathmandu is the capital and the largest city. Nepal is a multiethnic country with Nepali as the official language.

Contents

Mountaineering

Iñaki Ochoa de Olza was born in Pamplona, Navarra, north of Spain, on May 29, 1967. [1] He completed his first climb over 8,000 meters when he ascended to the peak of Kangchenjunga at the age of 22. [1] He also worked as a high altitude guide and cameraman. [1] His most recent achievements included a solo climb on a new route on Shishapangma in 2005. [1]

Kangchenjunga Third highest mountain in the world, in Nepal and India

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, is the third highest mountain in the world. It rises with an elevation of 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas called Kangchenjunga Himal delimited in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies between Nepal and Sikkim, India, with three of the five peaks directly on the border, and the remaining two in Nepal's Taplejung District.

Guide person who escorts travelers or tourists through unknown or unfamiliar locations

A guide is a person who leads travelers, sportsmen, or tourists through unknown or unfamiliar locations. The term can also be applied to a person who leads others to more abstract goals such as knowledge or wisdom.

Shishapangma mountain in China

Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8,027 metres (26,335 ft) above sea level. It was the last 8,000 metre peak to be climbed, due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on visits by foreign travelers to the region imposed by authorities of the Government of China and of the Tibet Autonomous Region.

Aside from sports challenges, Iñaki Ochoa de Olza had another dream he wanted to achieve. He wanted to give back to the people who live in needy countries with mountains over 8,000 m part of what he had received during his life in these places. So, he wanted to raise funds to build an orphanage in Kathmandu, a children's hospital in Pakistan and a school in Dharamsala (home of the Tibetan exile). Unfortunately, he could not see his dream fulfilled because of his death on Annapurna.

Kathmandu Capital of Nepal

Kathmandu is the capital and largest city of Nepal, with a population of around one million. Kathmandu is also the second largest metropolis in term of area after Pokhara in hilly region. Nepali and Nepal bhasha are the most spoken languages in the city.

Pakistan federal parliamentary constitutional republic in South Asia

Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the world’s sixth-most populous country with a population exceeding 212,742,631 people. In area, it is the 33rd-largest country, spanning 881,913 square kilometres. Pakistan has a 1,046-kilometre (650-mile) coastline along the Arabian Sea and Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by India to the east, Afghanistan to the west, Iran to the southwest, and China in the northeast. It is separated narrowly from Tajikistan by Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor in the northwest, and also shares a maritime border with Oman.

However, his goal of helping needy children continues today, through the Foundation Iñaki Ochoa de Olza - SOS HIMALAYA (www.soshimalaya.org). [4] That is the legacy of Iñaki.

In recognition of his sporting career he was awarded with the Gold Medal of Sports Merit of the Government of Navarre, his homeland. All the alpinists who contributed and took part in his rescue received the award as well.

Death

Ochoa de Olza died in 2008 while attempting to climb the 8,091-metre (26,545 ft) Nepalese mountain, Annapurna. [3] Ochoa was trying to climb to the peak of Annapurna with his climbing partner, Romanian alpinist Horia Colibășanu. [1] They were forced to halt their climb near the summit of the mountain because of dangerous weather conditions at the peak. [1] Ochoa had also suffered severe frostbite to his hands, which also forced the duo to halt the climb. [3] Upon their descent back down the mountain, Ochoa collapsed and suffered a seizure near Annapurna's Camp 4. [1] [3] He and his partner were unable to descend any further due to Ochoa's sudden illness and incapacitation. [3] Ochoa suffered from lung and brain damage due to the seizure. [1] His condition was further complicated by pulmonary edema. [1]

Romania Sovereign state in Europe

Romania is a country located at the crossroads of Central, Eastern, and Southeastern Europe. It borders the Black Sea to the southeast, Bulgaria to the south, Ukraine to the north, Hungary to the west, Serbia to the southwest, and Moldova to the east. It has a predominantly temperate-continental climate. With a total area of 238,397 square kilometres (92,046 sq mi), Romania is the 12th largest country and also the 7th most populous member state of the European Union, having almost 20 million inhabitants. Its capital and largest city is Bucharest, and other major urban areas include Cluj-Napoca, Timișoara, Iași, Constanța, Craiova, and Brașov.

Horia Colibășanu is a Romanian mountain climber. He is the first Romanian to reach the summits of K2, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. He climbed six of the most difficult peaks in the world, above 8,000 m. In 2009 Horia received the “Spirit of Mountaineering” award for his role in the rescue operation of Iñaki Ochoa de Olza.

Attempts were made to save Ochoa's life. Swiss climber Ueli Steck, who had abandoned his own attempt with Simon Anthamatten to climb Annapurna's south face due to avalanche threat the previous week, climbed to Ochoa's position to administer emergency medical aid. [1] [3] Doctors from the Hospital of Navarre also tried to help Ochoa remotely from Pamplona. [1] However, heavy snow conditions and the high altitude made all rescue attempts impossible. [1] (Rescues above 7400 metres are usually impossible because helicopters cannot hover at that altitude and few people are able to handle the altitude.) [3] Steck and Colibasanu were left to administer first aid to Ochoa. [1]

Iñaki Ochoa de Olza died on May 23, 2008, at 6:45 a.m. GMT in an emergency tent on Annapurna, where he had been trapped in a semiconscious and immobile state for five days. [1] [3] He died from a suspected pulmonary edema, as well as a brain lesion, according to the Spanish newspaper, Diario de Navarra . [3] His body still remains there, at 7,400 meters in the Annapurna, as per his family's request.

Notable ascents

Annapurna Annapurna South Face.jpg
Annapurna
  1. Cho Oyu (8,201 m): in 1993.
  2. Gasherbrum I (8,068 m): in 1996.
  3. Gasherbrum II (8,035 m): in 1996.
  4. Lhotse (8,516 m): in 1999.
  5. Mount Everest (8,848 m): in 2001.
  6. Nanga Parbat (8,125 m): in 2003.
  7. Broad Peak (8,046 m): in 2003.
  8. Makalu (8,463 m): in 2004.
  9. K2 (8,611 m): in 2004.
  10. Manaslu (8,163 m): in 2006.
  11. Shisha Pangma (8,027 m): in 2006.
  12. Dhaulagiri (8,167 m): in 2007.

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Annapurna Massif Himalayan mountain range in north-central Nepal

Annapurna is a massif in the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes one peak over 8,000 metres (26,000 ft), thirteen peaks over 7,000 metres (23,000 ft), and sixteen more over 6,000 metres (20,000 ft). The massif is 55 kilometres (34 mi) long, and is bounded by the Kali Gandaki Gorge on the west, the Marshyangdi River on the north and east, and by Pokhara Valley on the south. At the western end the massif encloses a high basin called the Annapurna Sanctuary. Annapurna I Main is the tenth highest mountain in the world at 8,091 metres (26,545 ft) above sea level, and in 1950 Maurice Herzog led a French expedition to its summit, making it the first of the eight-thousanders to be climbed.

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References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Bauer, Luke (2008-05-23). "Inaki Ochoa de Olza Dies on Annapurna". Alpinist . Retrieved 2008-06-29.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "Spanish climber Inaki Ochoa de Olza dies after attempt on Annapurna". Associated Press . International Herald Tribune. 2008-05-23. Retrieved 2008-06-29.
  3. "SOS Himalaya - Iñaki Ochoa de Olza Foundation". Archived from the original on 2011-10-15.
Last photo Inaki Ochoa de Olza. Annapurna Base Camp 30/04/2008 Annapurna Base Camp 2008.jpg
Last photo Iñaki Ochoa de Olza. Annapurna Base Camp 30/04/2008