Lhotse

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Lhotse
Lhotse-fromChukhungRi.jpg
The South Face of Lhotse as seen from the climb up to Chukhung Ri
Highest point
Elevation 8,516 m (27,940 ft) [nb 1]
Ranked 4th
Prominence 610 m (2,000 ft) [1]
Isolation 2.66 km (1.65 mi)  OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg
Listing Eight-thousander
Coordinates 27°57′42″N86°56′00″E / 27.96167°N 86.93333°E / 27.96167; 86.93333 Coordinates: 27°57′42″N86°56′00″E / 27.96167°N 86.93333°E / 27.96167; 86.93333 [1]
Geography
Nepal Province No 1 rel location map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Lhotse
Location on the China-Nepal border
Nepal rel location map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Lhotse
Lhotse (Nepal)
Location China (Tibet Autonomous Region)
Province No. 1, Nepal (Khumbu)
Parent range Mahalangur Himal
Climbing
First ascent 18 May 1956
Fritz Luchsinger, Ernst Reiss
(First winter ascent 31 December 1988 Krzysztof Wielicki)
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb
Kangshung Face as seen from orbit ISS004E8852 everest.jpg
Kangshung Face as seen from orbit

Lhotse (Nepali : ल्होत्सेL'hōtsē [lot̪.se] ; Tibetan : ལྷོ་རྩེ, lho rtse) is the fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft), after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. Part of the Everest massif, Lhotse is connected to the latter peak via the South Col. Lhotse means "South Peak" in Tibetan. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above sea level, the mountain comprises the smaller peaks Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414 m (27,605 ft), and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 m (27,503 ft). The summit is on the border between Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

Contents

Climbing

An early attempt on Lhotse was by the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya. They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention, during September and October, to the Western Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which they achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and low temperatures. Under Schneider's direction, they completed the first map of the Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition also made several short films covering local cultural topics and made a number of first ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu region. [2]

The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on 18 May 1956, by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition. [3] [4] On 12 May 1970, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. [5]

Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on Earth; its first ascent was made on 23 May 2001 by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition. [6]

The Lhotse standard climbing route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band, the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through the narrow "Reiss couloir" until the Lhotse main peak is reached.

By December 2008, 371 climbers had summited Lhotse while 20 died during their attempt. [7] Lhotse was not summited in 2014, 2015, or 2016 due to a series of incidents. It was next summited in May 2017. [8]

Nuptse Ridge, Everest, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar peaks Nuptse Ridge ,Everest,Lhotse and Lhotse Shar peaks.jpg
Nuptse Ridge, Everest, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar peaks

Timeline

The Western Cwm. The Lhotse Face (centre right) is connected to Mount Everest (centre left) by the South Col (centre, lowest point on horizon). Western Cwm - 14th May 2011.jpg
The Western Cwm. The Lhotse Face (centre right) is connected to Mount Everest (centre left) by the South Col (centre, lowest point on horizon).

Lhotse Face

Lhotse from Gorakshep Lhotse from gorakshep.jpg
Lhotse from Gorakshep

The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125 m (3,690 ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50-degree pitches with the occasional 80-degree bulges. High-altitude climbing Sherpas and the lead climbers will set fixed ropes up this wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.

On 19 May 2016, a high-altitude mountain worker, Ang Furba Sherpa, died when he slipped and fell down Lhotse face. [28]

From Gokyo Ri

Nirekha.jpg
Annotated image of Lhotse and surroundings as seen from Gokyo Ri

See also

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References

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  2. 1 2 Dyhrenfurth, Norman G. (1956). "Lhotse, 1955". American Alpine Journal. 10 (1): 7. Retrieved 10 April 2016.
  3. 1 2 "The Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition 1956". Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
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Notes
  1. A height of 8,501 m is sometimes given but official Nepalese and Chinese mapping agree on 8,516 m.

Further reading