Lord Howe Island

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Lord Howe Island
Lord Howe ISS006-E-5731.png
Satellite image of the island; north is up
Lord Howe Island.PNG
Flag of Lord Howe Island.svg
Geography
LocationLord Howe Island Group, Tasman Sea
Coordinates 31°33′15″S159°05′06″E / 31.55417°S 159.08500°E / -31.55417; 159.08500 Coordinates: 31°33′15″S159°05′06″E / 31.55417°S 159.08500°E / -31.55417; 159.08500
Total islands28
Major islandsLord Howe Island, Admiralty Group, Mutton Bird Islands, and Balls Pyramid
Area14.55 km2 (5.62 sq mi)
Highest elevation875 m (2,871 ft)
Highest pointMount Gower
Administration
Administrative Division Unincorporated area of New South Wales
Self-governed by the Lord Howe Island Board [1]
Part of the electoral district of Port Macquarie [2]
Part of the Division of Sydney [3]
Demographics
Population
  • 382
  • Tourists are restricted to 400 at any time.
(2016 census) [4]
Pop. density26.25 /km2 (67.99 /sq mi)
Additional information
Time zone
  Summer (DST)
Official nameLord Howe Island Group
TypeNatural
Criteriavii, x
Designated 1982 (6th session)
Reference no. 186
State PartyAustralia
Region Asia-Pacific
Official nameLord Howe Island Group, Lord Howe Island, NSW, Australia
TypeNatural
Designated21 May 2007
Reference no.105694
File number1/00/373/0001
Official nameLord Howe Island Group
TypeState heritage (landscape)
Designated2 April 1999
Reference no.970
TypeOther - Landscape - Cultural
CategoryLandscape - Cultural

Lord Howe Island ( /h/ ; formerly Lord Howe's Island) is an irregularly crescent-shaped volcanic remnant in the Tasman Sea between Australia and New Zealand, 600 km (320 nmi) directly east of mainland Port Macquarie, 780 km (420 nmi) northeast of Sydney, and about 900 km (490 nmi) southwest of Norfolk Island. It is about 10 km (6.2 mi) long and between 0.3 and 2.0 km (0.19 and 1.24 mi) wide with an area of 14.55 km2 (3,600 acres), though just 3.98 km2 (980 acres) of that comprise the low-lying developed part of the island. [5]

Tasman Sea A marginal sea of the South Pacific between Australia and New Zealand

The Tasman Sea is a marginal sea of the South Pacific Ocean, situated between Australia and New Zealand. It measures about 2,000 km (1,200 mi) across and about 2,800 km (1,700 mi) from north to south. The sea was named after the Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman, who was the first recorded European to encounter New Zealand and Tasmania. British explorer Captain James Cook later extensively navigated the Tasman Sea in the 1770s as part of his first voyage of exploration.

Australia Country in Oceania

Australia, officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a sovereign country comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands. It is the largest country in Oceania and the world's sixth-largest country by total area. The neighbouring countries are Papua New Guinea, Indonesia, and East Timor to the north; the Solomon Islands and Vanuatu to the north-east; and New Zealand to the south-east. The population of 25 million is highly urbanised and heavily concentrated on the eastern seaboard. Australia's capital is Canberra, and its largest city is Sydney. The country's other major metropolitan areas are Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide.

New Zealand Country in Oceania

New Zealand is a sovereign island country in the southwestern Pacific Ocean. The country geographically comprises two main landmasses—the North Island, and the South Island —and around 600 smaller islands. New Zealand is situated some 2,000 kilometres (1,200 mi) east of Australia across the Tasman Sea and roughly 1,000 kilometres (600 mi) south of the Pacific island areas of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga. Because of its remoteness, it was one of the last lands to be settled by humans. During its long period of isolation, New Zealand developed a distinct biodiversity of animal, fungal, and plant life. The country's varied topography and its sharp mountain peaks, such as the Southern Alps, owe much to the tectonic uplift of land and volcanic eruptions. New Zealand's capital city is Wellington, while its most populous city is Auckland.

Contents

Along the west coast is a sandy semi-enclosed sheltered coral reef lagoon. Most of the population lives in the north, while the south is dominated by forested hills rising to the highest point on the island, Mount Gower (875 m, 2,871 ft). [6] The Lord Howe Island Group [6] comprises 28 islands, islets, and rocks. Apart from Lord Howe Island itself, the most notable of these is the volcanic and uninhabited Ball's Pyramid about 23 km (14 mi; 12 nmi) to the southeast of Howe. To the North lies a cluster of seven small uninhabited islands called the Admiralty Group. [7]

Coral reef Outcrop of rock in the sea formed by the growth and deposit of stony coral skeletons

A coral reef is an underwater ecosystem characterized by reef-building corals. Reefs are formed of colonies of coral polyps held together by calcium carbonate. Most coral reefs are built from stony corals, whose polyps cluster in groups.

Balls Pyramid an island and an erosional remnant of a shield volcano, 562 m tall and 1100 m×300 m in length and breadth, 20 km southeast of Lord Howe Island in the Pacific; part of the Lord Howe Island Marine Park in Australia

Ball's Pyramid is an erosional remnant of a shield volcano and caldera that formed about 6.4 million years ago. It lies 20 kilometres (12 mi) southeast of Lord Howe Island in the Pacific Ocean. It is 562 metres (1,844 ft) high, while measuring only 1,100 metres (3,600 ft) in length and 300 metres (980 ft) across, making it the tallest volcanic stack in the world. Ball's Pyramid is part of the Lord Howe Island Marine Park in Australia and is over 643 kilometres (400 mi) northeast of Sydney, New South Wales.

Admiralty Group

The Admiralty Group of islets consists of eight rocky outcrops within 2 km of the north of Lord Howe Island, from south to north:

  1. Soldier’s Cap
  2. Sugarloaf
  3. South Island
  4. Noddy
  5. Roach Island
  6. Tenth of June
  7. North Rock
  8. Flat Rock

The first reported sighting of Lord Howe Island took place on 17 February 1788, when Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball, commander of the Armed Tender HMS Supply, was en route from Botany Bay to found a penal settlement on Norfolk Island. [8] On the return journey, Ball sent a party ashore on Lord Howe Island to claim it as a British possession. [9] It subsequently became a provisioning port for the whaling industry, [10] and was permanently settled in June 1834. [11] When whaling declined, the 1880s saw the beginning of the worldwide export of the endemic kentia palms, [12] which remains a key component of the Island's economy. The other continuing industry, tourism, began after World War II ended in 1945.

Henry Lidgbird Ball Royal Navy admiral

Rear-Admiral Henry Lidgbird Ball (1756–1818) was a Royal Navy officer, best known for discovering and exploring Lord Howe Island.

HMS <i>Supply</i> (1759) Royal Navy armed tender (1759)

Launched in 1759, the third HMS Supply was a Royal Navy armed tender that played an important part in the foundation of Australia. The Navy sold her in 1792. She then served commercially until about 1806.

Botany Bay bay in Sydney

Botany Bay, an open oceanic embayment, is located in Sydney, New South Wales, Australia, 13 km (8 mi) south of the Sydney central business district. Its source is the confluence of the Georges River at Taren Point and the Cooks River at Kyeemagh, which flows 10 km (6 mi) to the east before meeting its mouth at the Tasman Sea, midpoint between La Perouse and Kurnell.

The Lord Howe Island Group is part of the state of New South Wales [13] and is regarded legally as an unincorporated area administered by the Lord Howe Island Board, [13] which reports to the New South Wales Minister for Environment and Heritage. [13] The island's standard time zone is UTC+10:30, or UTC+11 when daylight saving time applies. [14] The currency is the Australian dollar. Commuter airlines provide flights to Sydney, Brisbane, and Port Macquarie.

New South Wales State of Australia

New South Wales is a state on the east coast of Australia. It borders Queensland to the north, Victoria to the south, and South Australia to the west. Its coast borders the Tasman Sea to the east. The Australian Capital Territory is an enclave within the state. New South Wales' state capital is Sydney, which is also Australia's most populous city. In September 2018, the population of New South Wales was over 8 million, making it Australia's most populous state. Just under two-thirds of the state's population, 5.1 million, live in the Greater Sydney area. Inhabitants of New South Wales are referred to as New South Welshmen.

Unincorporated area Region of land not governed by own local government

In law, an unincorporated area is a region of land that is not governed by a local municipal corporation; similarly an unincorporated community is a settlement that is not governed by its own local municipal corporation, but rather is administered as part of larger administrative divisions, such as a township, parish, borough, county, city, canton, state, province or country. Occasionally, municipalities dissolve or disincorporate, which may happen if they become fiscally insolvent, and services become the responsibility of a higher administration. Widespread unincorporated communities and areas are a distinguishing feature of the United States and Canada. In most other countries of the world, there are either no unincorporated areas at all, or these are very rare; typically remote, outlying, sparsely populated or uninhabited areas.

A time zone is a region of the globe that observes a uniform standard time for legal, commercial, and social purposes. Time zones tend to follow the boundaries of countries and their subdivisions because it is convenient for areas in close commercial or other communication to keep the same time.

UNESCO records the Lord Howe Island Group as a World Heritage Site of global natural significance. [15] Most of the island is virtually untouched forest, with many of the plants and animals found nowhere else in the world. Other natural attractions include the diversity of the landscapes, the variety of upper mantle and oceanic basalts, the world's southernmost barrier coral reef, nesting seabirds, and the rich historical and cultural heritage. [16] The Lord Howe Island Act 1981 established a "Permanent Park Preserve" (covering about 70% of the island). [14] The island was added to the Australian National Heritage List on 21 May 2007 [17] and the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 2 April 1999. [18] The surrounding waters are a protected region designated the Lord Howe Island Marine Park. [19]

UNESCO Specialised agency of the United Nations

The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) based in Paris. Its declared purpose is to contribute to peace and security by promoting international collaboration in education, sciences, and culture in order to increase universal respect for justice, the rule of law, and human rights along with fundamental freedom proclaimed in the United Nations Charter. It is the successor of the League of Nations' International Committee on Intellectual Cooperation.

World Heritage Site place listed by the UNESCO as of special cultural or natural significance

A World Heritage Site is a landmark or area which is selected by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as having cultural, historical, scientific or other form of significance, and is legally protected by international treaties. The sites are judged important to the collective interests of humanity.

Forest dense collection of trees covering a relatively large area

A forest is a large area dominated by trees. Hundreds of more precise definitions of forest are used throughout the world, incorporating factors such as tree density, tree height, land use, legal standing and ecological function. According to the widely used Food and Agriculture Organization definition, forests covered 4 billion hectares (9.9×109 acres) (15 million square miles) or approximately 30 percent of the world's land area in 2006.

Bioregion

Lord Howe Island is part of the IBRA region Pacific Subtropical Islands (code PSI) and is subregion PSI01 with an area of 1,909 ha (4,720 acres). [20]

Interim Biogeographic Regionalisation for Australia biogeographic regionalisation of Australia developed by the Australian Government

The Interim Biogeographic Regionalisation for Australia (IBRA) is a biogeographic regionalisation of Australia developed by the Australian Government's Department of Sustainability, Environment, Water, Population and Communities. It was developed for use as a planning tool, for example for the establishment of a National Reserve System.

History

1788–1834: First European visits

Lt Henry Lidgbird Ball, Commander of HMS Supply HenryLidgbirdBall.jpg
Lt Henry Lidgbird Ball, Commander of HMS Supply

Prior to European discovery and settlement, Lord Howe Island apparently was uninhabited, and unknown to Polynesian peoples of the South Pacific. [21] The first reported European sighting of Lord Howe Island was on 17 February 1788 by Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball, commander of the Armed Tender HMS Supply (the oldest and smallest of the First Fleet ships), which was on its way from Botany Bay with a cargo of nine male and six female convicts to found a penal settlement on Norfolk Island. [8] On the return journey of 13 March 1788, Ball observed Ball's Pyramid and sent a party ashore on Lord Howe Island to claim it as a British possession. [9] Numerous turtles and tame birds were captured and returned to Sydney. [22] Ball named Mount Lidgbird and Ball's Pyramid after himself and the main island after Richard Howe, 1st Earl Howe, who was First Lord of the Admiralty at the time. [9]

The extinct white gallinule (Porphyrio albus). A drawing made in May 1788 by Arthur Bowes Smyth who was the surgeon aboard Lady Penrhyn, a ship of the First Fleet heading for China on its return trip to England Representation of a Bird of the Coot kind, found at Lord Howe Island A604008h.jpg
The extinct white gallinule ( Porphyrio albus ). A drawing made in May 1788 by Arthur Bowes Smyth who was the surgeon aboard Lady Penrhyn, a ship of the First Fleet heading for China on its return trip to England

Many names on the island date from this time, and also from May of the same year, when four ships of the First Fleet, HMS Supply, Charlotte, Lady Penrhyn and Scarborough, visited it. Much of the plant and animal life was first recorded in the journals and diaries of visitors such as David Blackburn, Master of Supply, and Arthur Bowes Smyth, [23] surgeon of the Lady Penrhyn. Watercolour sketches of native birds including the Lord Howe woodhen (Gallirallus sylvestris), white gallinule ( Porphyrio albus ), and Lord Howe pigeon (Columba vitiensis godmanae), were made by artists including George Raper and John Hunter. As the latter two birds were soon hunted to extinction, these paintings are their only remaining pictorial record. [24] [25] Over the next three years, the Supply returned to the island several times in search of turtles, and the island was also visited by ships of the Second and Third Fleets. [26] Between 1789 and 1791, the Pacific whale industry was born with British and American whaling ships chasing sperm whales (Physeter macrocephalus) along the equator to the Gilbert and Ellice archipelago, then south into Australian and New Zealand waters. [27] The American fleet numbered 675 ships and Lord Howe was located in a region known as the Middle Ground noted for sperm whales and southern right whales (Eubalaena australis). [28]

The island was subsequently visited by many government and whaling ships sailing between New South Wales and Norfolk Island and across the Pacific, including many from the American whaling fleet, so its reputation as a provisioning port preceded settlement, [10] with some ships leaving goats and pigs on the island as food for future visitors. Between July and October 1791, the Third Fleet ships arrived at Sydney and within days, the deckwork was being reconstructed for a future in the lucrative whaling industry. Whale oil was to become Australia's most profitable export until the 1830s, and the whaling industry shaped Lord Howe Island's early history. [29]

1834–1841: Settlement

Lord Howe Island Maritime Museum and Information Centre Lord Howe Island maritime museum.jpg
Lord Howe Island Maritime Museum and Information Centre

Permanent settlement on Lord Howe was established in June 1834, when the British whaling barque Caroline, sailing from New Zealand and commanded by Captain John Blinkenthorpe, landed at what is now known as Blinky Beach. They left three men, George Ashdown, James Bishop, and Chapman, who were employed by a Sydney whaling firm to establish a supply station. The men were initially to provide meat by fishing and by raising pigs and goats from feral stock. They landed with (or acquired from a visiting ship) their Māori wives and two Māori boys. Huts were built in an area now known as Old Settlement, which had a supply of fresh water, and a garden was established west of Blinky Beach. [11] [30]

This was a cashless society; the settlers bartered their stores of water, wood, vegetables, meat, fish, and bird feathers for clothes, tea, sugar, tools, tobacco, and other commodities not available on the island, but it was the whalers' valuation that had to be accepted. [31] [32] These first settlers eventually left the island when they were bought out for £350 in September 1841 by businessmen Owen Poole and Richard Dawson (later joined by John Foulis), whose employees and others then settled on the island. [33]

1842–1860: Trading provisions

The new business was advertised and ships trading between Sydney and the New Hebrides (Vanuatu) would also put into the island. Rover's Bride, a small cutter, became the first regular trading vessel. [34] Between 1839 and 1859, five to 12 ships made landfall each year, occasionally closer to 20, with seven or eight at a time laying off the reef. [35] In 1842 and 1844, the first children were born on the island. Then in 1847, Poole, Dawson, and Foulis, bitter at failing to obtain a land lease from the New South Wales government, abandoned the settlement although three of their employees remained. [36] One family, the Andrews, after finding some onions on the beach in 1848, cultivated them as the "Lord Howe red onion", which was popular in the Southern Hemisphere for about 30 years until the crop was attacked by smut disease. [37]

"Expedition to the South Seas: HMS Herald and steamship tender Torch" The Illustrated London News, 15 May 1852 HMS Herald.jpg
"Expedition to the South Seas: HMS Herald and steamship tender Torch" The Illustrated London News , 15 May 1852

In 1849, just 11 people were living on the island, but soon the island farms expanded. [37] In the 1850s, gold was discovered on mainland Australia, where crews would abandon their ships, preferring to dig for gold than to risk their lives at sea. As a consequence, many vessels avoided the mainland and Lord Howe Island experienced an increasing trade, which peaked between 1855 and 1857. [38] In 1851, about 16 people were living on the island. [11] Vegetable crops now included potatoes, carrots, maize, pumpkin, taro, watermelon, and even grapes, passionfruit, and coffee. [30] Between 1851 and 1853, several aborted proposals were made by the NSW government to establish a penal settlement on the island. [39]

From 1851 to 1854, Henry Denham captain of HMS Herald, which was on a scientific expedition to the southwest Pacific (1852–1856), completed the island's first hydrographic survey. On board were three Scottish biologists, William Milne (a gardener-botanist from the Edinburgh Botanic Garden), John MacGillivray (naturalist) who collected fish and plant specimens, and assistant surgeon and zoologist Denis Macdonald. Together, these men established much basic information on the geology, flora, and fauna of the island. [40]

Around 1853, a further three settlers arrived on the American whaling barque Belle, captained by Ichabod Handy. [41] George Campbell (who died in 1856) and Jack Brian (who left the island in 1854) arrived, and the third, Nathan Thompson, brought three women (called Botanga, Bogoroo, and a girl named Bogue) from the Gilbert Islands. When his first wife Botanga died, he then married Bogue. Thompson was the first resident to build a substantial house in the 1860s from mainland cedar washed up on the beach. [42] Most of the residents with island ancestors have blood relations or are connected by marriage to Thompson and his second wife Bogue. [43]

In 1855, the island was officially designated as part of New South Wales by the Constitution Act. [44]

1861–1890: Scientific expeditions

From the early 1860s, whaling declined rapidly with the increasing use of petroleum, the onset of the California gold rush, and the American Civil War—with unfortunate consequences for the island. To explore alternative means of income, Thompson, in 1867, purchased the Sylph, which was the first local vessel to trade with Sydney (mainly pigs and onions). It anchored in deep water at what is now Sylph's Hole off Old Settlement Beach, but was eventually tragically lost at sea in 1873, which added to the woes of the island at that time. [45]

In 1869, the island was visited by magistrate P. Cloete aboard the Thetis investigating a possible murder. He was accompanied by Charles Moore, director of the Botanic Gardens in Sydney, and his assistant William Carron, who forwarded plant specimens to Ferdinand Mueller at the botanic gardens in Melbourne, who by 1875, had catalogued and published 195 species. [46] Also on the ship was William Fitzgerald, a surveyor, and Mr Masters from the Australian Museum. Together, they surveyed the island with the findings published in 1870 when the population was listed as 35 people, their 13 houses built of split palm battens thatched on the roof and sides with palm leaves. [47] Around this time, a downturn of trade began with the demise of the whaling industry and sometimes six to 12 months passed without a vessel calling. With the provisions rotting in the storehouses, the older families lost interest in market gardening. [48]

From 1860 to 1872, 43 ships had collected provisions, but from 1873 to 1887, fewer than a dozen had done so. [38] This prompted some activity from the mainland. In 1876, a government report on the island was submitted by surveyor William Fitzgerald based on a visit in the same year. He suggested that coffee be grown, but the kentia palm was already catching world attention. [12] In 1878, the island was declared a forest reserve and Captain Richard Armstrong became the first resident government administrator. He encouraged schools, tree-planting, and the palm trade, dynamited the north passage to the lagoon, and built roads. He also managed to upset the residents, and parliamentarian John Wilson was sent from the mainland in April 1882 to investigate the situation. [49] With Wilson was a team of scientists who included H. Wilkinson from the Mines Department, W. Condor from the Survey Department, J. Duff from the Sydney Botanical Gardens, and A. Morton from the Australian Museum. J. Sharkey from the Government Printing Office took the earliest known photographs of the island and its residents. A full account of the island appeared in the report from this visit, [50] which recommended that Armstrong be replaced. Meanwhile, the population had increased considerably and included 29 children; the report recommended that a schoolmaster be appointed. [51] This study sealed a lasting relationship with three scientific organisations, the Australian Museum, Sydney Royal Botanic Gardens, and Kew Royal Botanic Gardens.

1890–1999

In 1883, the company Burns Philp started a regular shipping service and the number of tourists gradually increased. By 1932, with the regular tourist run of SS Morinda, tourism became the second-largest source of external income after palm sales to Europe. [11] Morinda was replaced by Makambo in 1932, and she in turn by other vessels. The service continues into the present day with the fortnightly Island Trader service from Port Macquarie. [52]

The palm trade began in the 1880s when the lowland kentia palm ( Howea forsteriana ) was first exported to Britain, Europe, and America, but the trade was only placed on a firm financial footing when the Lord Howe Island Kentia Palm Nursery was formed in 1906 (see below).

The 1965 wreck of The Favourite in North Bay is a popular site LordHoweIsland NorthBay Reef 35.jpg
The 1965 wreck of The Favourite in North Bay is a popular site

The first plane to appear on the island was in 1931, when Francis Chichester alighted on the lagoon in a de Havilland Gipsy Moth converted into a floatplane. It was damaged there in an overnight storm, but repaired with the assistance of islanders and then took off successfully nine weeks later for a flight to Sydney. [53] After World War II, in 1947, tourists arrived on Catalina and then four-engined Sandringham flying boats of Ansett Flying Boat Services operating out of Rose Bay, Sydney, and landing on the lagoon, the journey taking about 3½ hours. When Lord Howe Island Airport was completed in 1974, the seaplanes were eventually replaced with QantasLink twin-engined turboprop Dash 8-200 aircraft. [54]

21st century

In 2002, the Royal Navy destroyer HMS Nottingham struck Wolf Rock, a reef at Lord Howe Island, and almost sank. [55] In recent times, tourism has increased and the government of New South Wales has been increasingly involved with issues of conservation. [11]

On 17 October 2011, a supply ship, M/V Island Trader, with 20 tons of fuel, ran aground in the lagoon. The ship refloated at high tide with no loss of crew or cargo. [56]

The 2016 film The Shallows starring Blake Lively was largely filmed on the island. [57]

One of the most contentious issues amongst islanders in the 21st century is what to do about the rodent situation. Rodents have only been on the island since the SS Makambo ran aground in 1918, and have wiped out several endemic bird species and were thought to have done the same to the Lord Howe Island stick insect. A plan has been made to drop 42 tonnes of rat bait across the island, but the community is heavily divided. [58]

Demographics

As at the 2016 census, the resident population was 382 people, [59] and the number of tourists was not allowed to exceed 400. [60] Early settlers were European and American whalers and many of their offspring have remained on the island for more than six generations. Residents are now involved with the kentia palm industry, tourism, retail, some fishing, and farming. In 1876 on Sundays, games and labour were suspended, but no religious services were held. [48] Nowadays, the area known locally as Church Paddock has Anglican, Catholic, and Adventist churches, the religious affiliations on the island being 30% Anglican, 22% no religion, 18% Catholic and 12% Seventh Day Adventist. [61] The ratio of the sexes is roughly equal, with 47% of the population in the age group 25–54 and 92% holding Australian citizenship. [61]

Governance and land tenure

Official control of Lord Howe Island lay initially with the British Crown until it passed to New South Wales in 1855, [44] [62] although until at least 1876, the islanders lived in "a relatively harmonious and self-regulating community". [63] In 1878, Richard Armstrong was appointed administrator when the NSW Parliament declared the island a forest reserve, but as a result of ill feeling, and an enquiry, he was eventually removed from office on 31 May 1882 (he returned later that year though to view the transit of Venus from present-day Transit Hill). [64] After his removal, the island was administered by four successive magistrates until 1913, when a Sydney-based board was formed; in 1948, a resident superintendent was appointed. [65] In 1913, the three-man Lord Howe Island Board of Control was established, mostly to regulate the palm seed industry, but also administering the affairs of the island from Sydney until the present Lord Howe Island Board was set up in 1954. [66]

The Lord Howe Island Board is a NSW Statutory Authority established under the Lord Howe Island Act 1953, to administer the island as part of the state of New South Wales. It reports directly to the state's Minister for Environment and Heritage, and is responsible for the care, control, and management of the island. Its duties include the protection of World Heritage values; the control of development; the administration of Crown Land, including the island's protected area; provision of community services and infrastructure; and regulating sustainable tourism. [13] In 1981, the Lord Howe Island Amendment Act gave islanders the administrative power of three members on a five-member board. [67] The board also manages the Lord Howe Island kentia palm nursery, which together with tourism, provides the island's only sources of external income. [13] Under an amendment bill in 2004, the board now comprises seven members, four of whom are elected from the islander community, [13] thus giving about 350 permanent residents a high level of autonomy. The remaining three members are appointed by the minister to represent the interests of business, tourism, and conservation. [13] The full board meets on the island every three months, while the day-to-day affairs of the island are managed by the board's administration, with a permanent staff that had increased to 22 people by 1988. [68]

Land tenure has been an issue since first settlement, as island residents repeatedly requested freehold title or an absolute gift of cultivated land. [69] Original settlers were squatters. The granting of a 100-acre (40 ha) lease to Richard Armstrong in 1878 drew complaints, and a few short-term leases ("permissive occupancies") were granted. [70] In 1913, with the appointment of a board of control, permissive occupancies were revoked and the board itself given permissive occupancy of the island. [71] Then the Lord Howe Island Act 1953 made all land the property of the Crown. Direct descendants of islanders with permissive occupancies in 1913 were granted perpetual leases on blocks up to five acres (2.0 ha) for residential purposes. Short-term special leases were granted for larger areas used for agriculture, so in 1955, 55 perpetual leases and 43 special leases were granted. [72] The 1981 amendment to the act extended political and land rights to all residents of 10 years or more. [72] An active debate exists concerning the proportion of residents with tenure and the degree of influence on the board of resident islanders in relation to long-term planning for visitors, and issues relating to the environment, amenity, and global heritage. [70]

Kentia palm industry

The first exporter of palm seeds was Ned King, a mountain guide for the Fitzgerald surveys of 1869 and 1876, who sent seed to the Sydney Botanic Gardens. Overseas trade began in the 1880s, when one of the four palms endemic to the island, kentia palm ( Howea forsteriana ), which grows naturally in the lowlands, was found to be ideally suited to the fashionable conservatories of the well-to-do in Britain, Europe, and the United States, [14] [51] but the assistance of mainland magistrate Frank Farnell was needed to put the business on a sound commercial footing when in 1906, he became director of a company, the Lord Howe Island Kentia Palm Nursery, whose shareholders included 21 islanders and a Sydney-based seed company. However, the formation of the Lord Howe Island Board of Control was needed in 1913 to resolve outstanding issues. [73]

The native kentia palm (known locally as the thatch palm, as it was used to thatch the houses of the early settlers) is now the most popular decorative palm in the world. The mild climate of the island has evolved a palm that can tolerate low light, a dry atmosphere and lowish temperatures—ideal for indoor conditions. [14] Up to the 1980s the palms were only sold as seed but from then onwards only as high quality seedlings. The nursery received certification in 1997 for its high quality management complying with the requirements of Australian Standard AS/NZS ISO 9002. [74]

Seed is gathered from natural forest and plantations, most collectors being descendants of the original settlers. Seed is then germinated in soil-less media and sealed from the atmosphere to prevent contamination. After testing, they are picked, washed (bare-rooted), sanitized, and certified then packed and sealed into insulated containers for export. They grow both indoors and out and are popular for hotels and motels worldwide. Nursery profits are returned to enhance the island ecosystem. The nursery plans to expand the business to include the curly palm and other native plants of special interest. [14]

Tourism

Shopping centre on Ned's Beach Road Shopping Centre Ned's Beach Road.jpg
Shopping centre on Ned's Beach Road

Lord Howe Island is known for its geology, birds, plants, and marine life. Popular tourist activities include scuba diving, birdwatching, snorkelling, surfing, kayaking, and fishing. [75] To relieve pressure on the small island environment, only 400 tourists are permitted at any one time. [60] The island is reached by plane from Sydney Airport or Brisbane Airport in less than two hours. [60] The Permanent Park Preserve declared in 1981 has similar management guidelines to a national park. [76]

Island Trader on a fortnightly delivery from Port Macquarie Island Trader.jpg
Island Trader on a fortnightly delivery from Port Macquarie

Facilities

With fewer than 800 people on the island at any time, facilities are limited; they include a bakery, butcher, general store, liquor store, restaurants, post office, museum, and information centre, a police officer, a ranger, and an ATM at the bowling club. Stores are shipped to the island fortnightly by the Island Trader from Port Macquarie. [52] The island has a small four-bed hospital and dispensary. [77] A small botanic garden displays labelled local plants in its grounds. Diesel-generated power is 240 volts AC, as on the mainland. [77] No public transport or mobile phone coverage is available, but public telephones, fax facilities, and internet access are, [77] as well as a local radio station and newsletter, The Signal.

Tourist accommodation ranges from luxury lodges to apartments and villa units. [78] The currency is the Australian dollar, and there are two banks. [77] No camping facilities are on the island and remote-area camping is not permitted. [78] To protect the fragile environment of Ball's Pyramid (which carries the last remaining wild population of the endangered Lord Howe Island stick insect), recreational climbing there is prohibited. No pets are allowed without permission from the board. Islanders use tanked rainwater, supplemented by bore water for showers and washing clothes. [79]

Activities

Lord Howe Golf Course Lord Howe Golf Course - panoramio.jpg
Lord Howe Golf Course
Bushwalking to Little Island (bottom right) - Mount Lidgbird track Bushwalkig to Little island along the Mt Lidgbird track Lord Howe Island 8June2011.jpg
Bushwalking to Little Island (bottom right) – Mount Lidgbird track

As distances to sites of interest are short, cycling is the main means of transport on the island. Tourist activities include golf (9-hole), lawn bowls, tennis, fishing (including deep-sea game fishing), yachting, windsurfing, kitesurfing, kayaking, and boat trips (including glass-bottom tours of the lagoon). [80] [81] Swimming, snorkelling, and scuba diving are also popular in the lagoon, as well as off Tenth of June Island, a small rocky outcrop in the Admiralty group where an underwater plateau drops 36 m (118 ft) to reveal extensive gorgonia and black corals growing on the vertical walls. Other diving sites are found off Ball's Pyramid, 26 km (16 mi) away, where trenches, caves, and volcanic drop-offs occur. [82]

Bushwalking, natural history tours, talks, and guided walks take place along the many tracks, the most challenging being the eight-hour guided hike to the top of Mount Gower. [83] The island has 11 beaches, and hand-feeding the 1 m-long (3 ft) kingfish (Seriola lalandi) and large wrasse at Ned's Beach is very popular. [84] Walking tracks cover the island with difficulty graded from 1–5, they include—in the north: Transit Hill 2-hour return, 2 km (1.2 mi); Clear Place, 1– to 2-hour return; Stevens Reserve; North Bay, 4-hour return, 4 km (2.5 mi); Mount Eliza; Old Gulch, 20-minute return, 300 m (330 yd); Malabar Hill and Kims Lookout, 3 or 5-hour return, 7 km (4.3 mi) and—in the south: Goat House Cave, 5-hour return, 6 km (3.7 mi); Mount Gower, 8-hour return, 14 km (8.7 mi); Rocky Run and Boat Harbour; Intermediate Hill, 45-minute return, 1 km (0.62 mi); and Little Island, 40-minute return, 3 km (1.9 mi). Recreational climbers must obtain permission from the Lord Howe Island Board. [85] [86]

Geography

Ball's Pyramid, 23 km (14 mi) southeast of the main island Ball's Pyramid2.jpg
Ball's Pyramid, 23 km (14 mi) southeast of the main island

Lord Howe Island is an irregularly crescent-shaped volcanic remnant in the southwest Pacific Ocean. Lying in the Tasman Sea between Australia and New Zealand, the island is 600 km (370 mi) east of mainland Port Macquarie, 702 km (436 mi) northeast of Sydney, and about 772 km (480 mi) from Norfolk Island to its northeast. [87] The island is about 10 km (6.2 mi) long and between 0.3 and 2.0 km (0.19 and 1.24 mi) wide with an area of 14.55 km2 (5.62 sq mi). Along the west coast is a semienclosed, sheltered coral reef lagoon with white sand, the most accessible of the island's 11 beaches.

Mount Lidgbird and Mount Gower viewed from Mount Eliza Lord Howe Island from North.jpg
Mount Lidgbird and Mount Gower viewed from Mount Eliza

Both the north and south sections of the island are high ground of relatively untouched forest, in the south comprising two volcanic mountains, Mount Lidgbird (777 m (2,549 ft)) and Mount Gower which, rising to 875 m (2,871 ft), is the highest point on the island. [88] The two mountains are separated by the saddle at the head of Erskine Valley. In the north, where most of the population live, high points are Malabar (209 m (686 ft)) and Mount Eliza (147 m (482 ft)). Between these two uplands is an area of cleared lowland with some farming, the airstrip, and housing. The Lord Howe Island Group of islands comprises 28 islands, islets, and rocks. Apart from Lord Howe Island itself, the most notable of these is the pointed rocky islet Balls Pyramid, a 551 m-high (1,808 ft) eroded volcano about 23 km (14 mi) to the southeast, which is uninhabited by humans but bird-colonised. [89] It contains the only known wild population of the Lord Howe Island stick insect, formerly thought to be extinct. [90] To the north is the Admiralty Group, a cluster of seven small, uninhabited islands. [7] Just off the east coast is 4.5 ha (11 acres) Mutton Bird Island, and in the lagoon is the 3 ha (7.4 acres) Blackburn (Rabbit) Island.

Geological origins

Skeleton of an extinct horned turtle (Meiolania platyceps) displayed in the Maritime Museum Meiloania Platyceps.jpg
Skeleton of an extinct horned turtle ( Meiolania platyceps) displayed in the Maritime Museum

Lord Howe Island is the highly eroded remains of a 7-million-year-old shield volcano, [91] the product of eruptions that lasted for about 500,000 years. [92] It is one of a chain of islands that occur on the western rim of an undersea shelf, the Lord Howe Rise, which is 3,000 km (1,900 mi) long and 300 km (190 mi) wide extending from New Zealand to the west of New Caledonia and consisting of continental rocks that separated from the Australian plate 60 to 80 million years ago to form a new crust in the deep Tasman Basin. [93] The shelf is part of Zealandia, a microcontinent nearly half the size of Australia that gradually submerged after breaking away from the Gondwanan supercontinent. [94] The Lord Howe Seamount Chain is defined by coral-capped guyots stretching to the north of the island for 1,000 km (620 mi) and including the Middleton (220 km (140 mi) away) and Elizabeth (160 km (99 mi) away) reefs of the Elizabeth and Middleton Reefs Marine National Park Reserve. This chain of nine volcanic peaks was probably produced by the northward movement of the Indo-Australian Plate over a stationary hotspot, so the oldest guyots were the first formed and most northerly as the plate moved northward at a rate of 6 cm (2.4 in) per year (see plate tectonics). [95] [96]

Basalts and calcarenite

Basalt dikes on the eastern cliffs BasaltDykes LordHoweIsland 7June2011.jpg
Basalt dikes on the eastern cliffs
Volcanic breccia on Mount Lidgbird beach Volcanic breccia Mt Lidgbird beach Lord Howe Island 10June2011.jpg
Volcanic breccia on Mount Lidgbird beach

Two periods of volcanic activity produced the major features of the island. The first about 6.9 million years (Mya) ago produced the northern and central hills, while the younger and highly eroded Mount Gower and Mount Lidgbird were produced about 6.3 Mya by successive basalt (an extrusive igneous rock) lava flows that once filled a large volcanic caldera (crater) [97] and can now be seen as horizontal basalt strata on mountain cliffs (at Malabar and Mount Gower) occasionally interspersed with dikes (vertical lava intrusions). [98] [99] Geological pyroclastic remnants of volcanic eruption can be seen on the 15 ha (37-acre) Roach Island (where the oldest rocks occur) and Boat Harbour as tuff (ash), breccia (with angular blocks), and agglomerate (rounded 'bombs'). [14] Offshore on the Lord Howe Rise, water depths reach 2,000 m (6,600 ft) falling to 4,000 m (13,000 ft) to the west of the rise. From the dimensions of the rock on which the island stands, the island has been calculated to erode to 1/40th of its original size. [100]

Close-up of calcarenite by Andersons Road Calcarenite AndersonSt2 LordHoweIsland 5June2011.jpg
Close-up of calcarenite by Andersons Road
Stratified calcarenite at Lagoon Beach Calcarenite karst Lagoon Beach LordHoweIsland 11June2011.jpg
Stratified calcarenite at Lagoon Beach

Rocks and land at the foot of these mountains is calcarenite, a coral sand, blown inland during the Pleistocene between 130,000 and 20,000 years ago and cemented into stratified layers by water percolation. [101] In this rock are fossils of bird bones and eggs, land and marine snails, and the extinct endemic horned turtle ( Meiolania platyceps) now thought to be an ancient relictual nonswimming tortoise with relatives in South America. [102] The crescent of the island protects a coral reef] and lagoon, the barrier reef, at 31°S, is the most southerly in the world. [103] Beach sands, rather than consisting of quartz grains derived from granite, as on the mainland, are made of fragments of shell, coral, and coralline algae, together with basalt grains, and basaltic minerals such as black diopside and green olivine. [104] The lowland consists of alluvial soils.

The island continues to erode rapidly and is expected to be fully submerged within 200,000 years, taking an appearance akin to the Middleton and Elizabeth Reefs. [105]

Climate

Lord Howe Island has a humid subtropical climate (Cfa under the Köppen climate classification). [106]

In general, the summers are warm-hot with rainfall erratic, but occasionally heavy, while in winter it is very mild with rainfall more or less uniform. There is a gradual transition from summer to winter conditions and vice versa. [107] Winds are frequent and salt-laden, being moderate easterlies in the summer and fresh to strong westerlies in the winter. [107] [108] July is the windiest month, [109] and the winter months are subject to frequent gales and strong winds. The island has 67.8 clear days, annually. [107]

Storms and occasional cyclones also affect the island. [107] Rainfall records are maintained in the north, where rainfall is less than in the frequently cloud-shrouded mountains of the south. Wide variation in rainfall can occur from year to year. July and August are the coldest months with average minimum temperatures around 13 °C (55 °F) and no frost. Average maximum temperatures range from 17–20 °C (63–68 °F) in the winter to 24–27 °C (75–81 °F) in the summer. The humidity averages in the 60–70% range year round, becoming more noticeable on warmer summer days than in the cooler winter months. [110] [111]

The average temperature of the sea ranges from 20.0 °C (68.0 °F) in July, August, and September to 25.3 °C (77.5 °F) in March. [112]

Climate data for Lord Howe Island
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Record high °C (°F)29.9
(85.8)
31.3
(88.3)
28.2
(82.8)
27.0
(80.6)
25.2
(77.4)
23.9
(75.0)
22.4
(72.3)
23.4
(74.1)
23.3
(73.9)
24.9
(76.8)
28.0
(82.4)
28.3
(82.9)
31.3
(88.3)
Average high °C (°F)25.3
(77.5)
25.7
(78.3)
24.8
(76.6)
23.2
(73.8)
21.4
(70.5)
19.8
(67.6)
18.9
(66.0)
18.9
(66.0)
20.0
(68.0)
20.8
(69.4)
22.3
(72.1)
24.0
(75.2)
22.1
(71.8)
Average low °C (°F)20.6
(69.1)
21.0
(69.8)
20.0
(68.0)
18.0
(64.4)
16.3
(61.3)
14.8
(58.6)
13.9
(57.0)
13.5
(56.3)
14.6
(58.3)
15.7
(60.3)
17.4
(63.3)
19.2
(66.6)
17.1
(62.8)
Record low °C (°F)13.1
(55.6)
14.7
(58.5)
13.4
(56.1)
11.2
(52.2)
9.1
(48.4)
7.5
(45.5)
6.6
(43.9)
6.6
(43.9)
5.9
(42.6)
7.8
(46.0)
9.2
(48.6)
11.4
(52.5)
5.9
(42.6)
Average precipitation mm (inches)113.5
(4.47)
112.6
(4.43)
131.9
(5.19)
134.2
(5.28)
157.7
(6.21)
173.1
(6.81)
141.0
(5.55)
107.7
(4.24)
110.7
(4.36)
106.1
(4.18)
110.3
(4.34)
102.4
(4.03)
1,499
(59.02)
Average precipitation days13.113.215.918.620.821.723.220.416.514.313.613.5204.8
Average relative humidity (%)69666767666666646868676667
Source: [113]

Flora and fauna

Plants

Box-shaped fruit of Barringtonia asiatica, SW Pacific washed up on Blinky Beach Barringtonia asiatica SW Pacific Drift Blinky Beach LordHoweIsland 9June2011.jpg
Box-shaped fruit of Barringtonia asiatica , SW Pacific washed up on Blinky Beach

Lord Howe Island is a distinct terrestrial ecoregion known as the Lord Howe Island subtropical forests. It is part of the Australasia ecozone and shares many biotic affinities with Australia, New Guinea, and New Caledonia. [114] Almost half of the island's native plants are endemic and many of the island's unique plants grow on or around the mountain summits where the height has allowed the development of a true cloud forest and many different microhabitats from sea level to the summits. [115] One of the best known is Howea , an endemic genus of palms (Arecaceae) that are commonly known as kentia palms and are popular houseplants. [116] Annual exports provide a revenue of over A$2 million, providing the only major industry on the island apart from tourism. [117]

Origin

Wedding flower (Dietes robinsoniana) Dietes robinsoniana qtl1.jpg
Wedding flower ( Dietes robinsoniana )

In geological terms at 7 million years old, Lord Howe Island is relatively young and was never part of any continent, its flora and fauna colonising the island from across the sea, carried by wind, water, or birds, possibly assisted at a geological time when other islands were exposed, enabling island hopping. [118] Nevertheless, it is far enough away and has had sufficient time to evolve endemic species. The high degree of endemism is emphasised by the presence of five endemic genera: Negria , Lordhowea , Howea, Lepidorrhachis',' and Hedyscepe . [119] Island plants are similar to those of Norfolk Island, the two islands sharing some endemic species, for example, the critically endangered species of creeping vine Calystegia affinis . The combined flora of these two islands is more closely related to that of New Zealand and New Caledonia than to that of Australia. [119] Also, a small but clear link exists with the plants of Vanuatu. [119] The closest mainland affinities are with the vegetation of subtropical southeastern Queensland. A link with Gondwanaland is indicated by the presence of endemic species such as the wedding lily ( Dietes robinsoniana ) whose only living relatives occur in South Africa. [120]

The flora of the island is relatively untouched with a large number of rare plants, 44% being endemic to the island. [119] With a diversity of conditions ranging from valleys, to ridges, plains, and misty mountain tops, habitat is available for a wide range of plant communities, which have been comprehensively analysed and mapped. [121] Mosses include Spiridens muelleri. There are 57 species of ferns, of which 25 are endemic: they are most abundant in the moist environments of the southern island, especially the higher parts of Mount Gower, [122] perhaps the most apparent being the four endemic tree ferns in the genus Cyathea that occur on the southern mountains. [123]

Number of different vascular plants [119]
TotalIndigenousEndemicNaturalised
459241105 (43.6%)218 (47.5%)

Communities and special plants

Little mountain palm (Lepidorrhachis mooreana) on the summit of Mount Gower Lepidorrhachis mooreana LHI fruiting.jpg
Little mountain palm ( Lepidorrhachis mooreana) on the summit of Mount Gower

Plant communities have been classified into nine categories: lowland subtropical rainforest, submontane rainforest, cloud-forest and scrub, lowland swamp forest, mangrove scrub and seagrass, coastal scrub and cliff vegetation, inland scrub and herbland, offshore island vegetation, shoreline and beach vegetation, and disturbed vegetation. [119] Several plants are immediately evident to the visitor. Banyan ( Ficus macrophylla subsp. columnaris) is a remarkable tree with a buttressed trunk and pendulous aerial roots; it can be seen on the track to Clear Place and near Ned's Beach. [124] Pandanus tree ( Pandanus forsteri) has spectacular teepee-like prop roots and pineapple-like fruits that are orange-red when mature, the tough leaves being used for basketry. It occurs in damp areas such as creek beds, and fine specimens can be seen along the Boat Harbour track. [124] Ten species of orchids are on the island, the most noticeable being the bush orchid (Dendrobium macropus subsp. howeanum ) on lowland trees and rocks, bearing cream flowers from August to September. [124] Other prominent flowering plants in the summer include, on the mountain slopes, the whiskery red flowers of mountain rose ( Metrosideros nervulosa and Metrosideros sclerocarpa ), the massed, small, yellow flowers of corokia ( Corokia carpodetoides ), orange, plump flowers of pumpkin tree ( Negria rhabdothamnoides), and white spikes of Fitzgerald tree ( Dracophyllum fitzgeraldii ). [124] The kava bush has large, aromatic, heart-shaped leaves. After heavy rain, the endemic glowing mushrooms Mycena chlorophanos and Omphalotus nidiformis can be found in the palm forests. [125]

The palms are the signature plants of the island as the kentia and curly palms especially dominate the landscape in many places, the kentia being of special economic importance. [126] All four species are endemic to the island, often occurring in dense, pure stands, the one that has proved such a worldwide success as an indoor plant being the kentia or thatch palm (Howea forsteriana). This is a lowland palm with drooping leaflets and seed branches in 'hands' of three to five, while the curly palm (H. belmoreana), which occurs on slightly higher ground, has upwardly directed leaflets and solitary 'hands'. Natural hybrids between these species occur on the island and a mature specimen of one is growing in the island nursery. On the mountain sides higher than about 350 m, the big mountain palm ( Hedyscepe canterburyana) occurs; it has large, golf ball-sized fruits, while the little mountain palm ( Lepidorrhachis mooreana) has marble-sized fruits and is only found on the mountain summits. [127]

Images of native flora
Endemic Howea forsteriana Palms- Neds Beach,Lord Howe Island.jpg Howea belmoreana Curly Palm Lord Howe Island 9June2011.jpg Bird's Nest Fern Asplenium australasicum f. australasicum Lord Howe Id Valley of Shadows 6June2011.jpg Asplenium milnei ClearSpace LordHoweIsland 5June2011.jpg Lagunaria patersonia subsp. patersonia Sally Wood Ned's Beach Road Lord Howe Island 11June2011.jpg
Tall kentia palmsCurly palmLord Howe bird's nest fern
( Howea forsteriana )( Howea belmoreana )( Asplenium australasicum )( Asplenium milnei )( Lagunaria patersonia )

Animals

No snakes nor highly venomous or stinging insects, animals, or plants occur, and no dangerous daytime sharks are found off the beaches, although tiger sharks have been reported on the cliff side of the island. [128]

Birds

Sooty terns are the most abundant breeding seabirds and are common along the east coast. Sterna fuscata.JPG
Sooty terns are the most abundant breeding seabirds and are common along the east coast.

A total of 202 different birds have been recorded on the island. Eighteen species of land birds breed on the island and many more migratory species occur on the island and its adjacent islets, many tame enough that humans can get quite close. [129] The island has been identified by BirdLife International as an endemic bird area, and the Permanent Park Preserve as an important bird area, because it supports the entire population of Lord Howe woodhens, most of the breeding population of providence petrels, over 1% of the world population of another five seabird species, and the whole populations of three endemic subspecies. [130]

Fourteen species of seabirds breed on the island. [129] Red-tailed tropicbirds can be seen in large numbers circling the Malabar cliffs, where they perform acrobatic courting rituals. [131] Between August and May, thousands of flesh-footed and wedge-tailed shearwaters return to the island at dusk each day. From the Little Island Track between March and November, one of the world's rarest birds, the providence petrel, also performs courtship displays during winter breeding, and it is extremely tame. The island was its only breeding location for many years after the breeding colony on Norfolk Island was exterminated in the late 19th century, [132] though a small population persists on the adjacent Phillip Island. The Kermadec petrel was discovered breeding on Mount Gower in 1914 by ornithologist Roy Bell while collecting specimens for Gregory Mathews [133] and the black-winged petrel was only confirmed as a breeder in 1971; its numbers have increased following the elimination of feral cats from the island. [134]

Black noddy on North Beach Black Noddy Anous minutus North Beach LordHoweIsland 6June2011.jpg
Black noddy on North Beach

The flesh-footed shearwater, which breeds in large numbers on the main island in spring-autumn, once had its chicks harvested for food by the islanders. [135] The wedge-tailed and little shearwaters breed on the main island and surrounding islets, though only a small number of the latter species can be found on the main island. Breeding white-bellied storm petrels were another discovery by Roy Bell. [136] Masked boobies are the largest seabirds breeding on Lord Howe [137] and can be seen nesting and gliding along the sea cliffs at Mutton Bird Point all year round. Sooty terns can be seen on the main island at Ned's and Middle Beaches, North Bay, and Blinkey Beach; the most numerous of the island's breeding seabirds, their eggs were formerly harvested for food. Common and black noddies build nests in trees and bushes, while white terns lay their single eggs precariously in a slight depression on a tree branch, [138] and grey ternlets lay their eggs in cliff hollows. [139]

Three endemic passerine subspecies are the Lord Howe golden whistler, Lord Howe silvereye, and Lord Howe currawong. [140] The iconic endemic rail, the flightless Lord Howe woodhen, is the only surviving member of its genus; its ancestors could fly, but with no predators and plenty of food on the island, this ability was lost. This made it easy prey for islanders and feral animals, so by the 1970s, the population was less than 30 birds. From 1978 to 1984, feral animals were removed and birds were raised in captivity to be successfully reintroduced to the wild. The population is now relatively safe and stable. [14] [141]

List of endemic birds

Lord Howe silvereye (Zosterops lateralis tephropleurus) Lord Howe Silvereye.jpg
Lord Howe silvereye (Zosterops lateralis tephropleurus)

Mammals, reptiles and amphibians

Only one native mammal remains on the islands, the large forest bat. The endemic Lord Howe long-eared bat is known only from a skull and is now presumed extinct, possibly the result of the introduction of ship rats. [142]

Two terrestrial reptiles are native to the island group: the Lord Howe Island skink and the Lord Howe Island gecko. Both are rare on the main island, but more common on smaller islands offshore. [143] The garden skink and the bleating tree frog have been accidentally introduced from the Australian mainland.

Invertebrates

Lord Howe Island stick insect Lord Howe Island stick insect Dryococelus australis 10June2011 PalmNursery.jpg
Lord Howe Island stick insect

The Lord Howe Island stick insect disappeared from the main island soon after the accidental introduction of rats when the SS Makambo ran aground near Ned's Beach on 15 June 1918. [143] [144] In 2001, a tiny population was discovered in a single Melaleuca howeana shrub on the slopes of Ball's Pyramid, [145] has been successfully bred in captivity, and is nearing re-introduction to the main island. [146] The Lord Howe stag beetle is a colourful endemic beetle seen during summers. [147] Another endemic invertebrate, the Lord Howe flax snail (or Lord Howe Placostylus), has also been affected by the introduction of rats. [143] Once common, the species is now endangered and a captive-breeding program is underway to save the snail from extinction.

Marine life

Marine environments are near-pristine with a mixtures of temperate, subtropical, and tropical species derived from cool-temperate ocean currents in the winter and the warm East Australian Current, which flows from the Great Barrier Reef, in summer. [148] Of the 490 fish species recorded, 13 are endemic and 60% are tropical. [148] The main angling fish are yellowtail kingfish and New Zealand bluefish, while game fish include marlin, tuna, and giant kingfish called "greenbacks". [149] Over 80 species of corals occur in the reefs surrounding the islands. [150] [151] Australian underwater photographer Neville Coleman has photographed various nudibranchs at Lord Howe Island. [152]

Various species of cetaceans inhabit or migrate through the waters in vicinity, but very little about their biology in the area is known due to lack of studies and sighting efforts caused from locational conditions. Bottlenose dolphins are the most commonly observed and are the only species confirmed to be seasonal or yearly residents, while some other dolphin species have also been observed. [153] Humpback whales are the only of large whales showing slow but steady recoveries as their numbers annually migrating past the island of Lord Howe are much smaller than those migrating along Australian continent.

Historically, migratory whales such as blue, fin, and sei whales were very abundant in the island waters, but were severely reduced in numbers to near-extinction by commercial and illegal hunts, including the mass illegal hunts by the Soviet Union and Japan in the 1960s to 1970s. [154] Southern right and sperm whales were most severely hunted among these, hence the area was called the Middle Ground by whalers. [155] These two were likely once seasonal residents around the island, where right whales prefer sheltered, very shallow bays, [156] while sperm whales mainly inhabit deep waters.

Conservation

Lord Howe white-throated pigeon (Columba vitiensis godmanae) painted by George Raper, 1790 - now extinct LordHoweIslandPigeonByGeorgeRaper.jpg
Lord Howe white-throated pigeon ( Columba vitiensis godmanae ) painted by George Raper, 1790 – now extinct

About 10% of Lord Howe Island's forests has been cleared for agriculture, and another 20% has been disturbed, mostly by domestic cattle and feral sheep, goats, and pigs. As a result, 70% of the island remains relatively untouched, with a variety of plants and animals, many of which are endemic, and some of which are rare or threatened. [157] Two species of plants, nine terrestrial birds, one bat, and at least four invertebrates have become extinct since 1778. [158] Endemism at the generic level includes the palms Howea , Hedyscepe and Lepidorrhachis , a woody daisy Lordhowea , the tree Negria , the leech Quantenobdella howensis , three annelid worm genera ( Paraplutellus , Pericryptodrilus and Eastoniella ), an isopod shrimp Stigmops , a hemipteran bug Howeria , and a cricket Howeta . [159]

The Lord Howe Island Board instigated an extensive biological and environmental survey (published in 1974), which has guided the island conservation program. [160] In 1981, the Lord Howe Island Amendment Act proclaimed a "Permanent Park Preserve" over the north and south ends of the island. Administration of the preserve was outlined in a management plan for the sustainable development of the island prepared by the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service, [76] [161] which has a ranger stationed on the island. The island was cited under the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1982.

Offshore environmental assets are protected by the Lord Howe Island Marine Park. This consists of a state marine park managed by the Marine Parks Authority of New South Wales in the waters out to three nautical miles around the island and including Ball's Pyramid. [19] It also includes a Commonwealth Marine Park extending from 3 to 12 nautical miles out and managed by the federal Department of the Environment and Heritage. [162] In total the Marine Park covers about 3,005 km2 (1,160 sq mi). [163]

Feral animals and plants

Pigs and goats were released on the island as potential food in the early 1800s; the goats destroyed shrubs and grasses used as nesting sites and the pigs ate eggs and chicks and disturbed the land by rooting for food. [164] Several birds have become extinct on the island since the arrival of humans. The first round of extinctions included the Lord Howe swamphen or white gallinule, white-throated pigeon, red-crowned parakeet, and Tasman booby, which were eliminated by visitors and settlers during the 19th century, either from overhunting for food or protection of crops. [164] Black rats were released from provisioning whaling ships in the 1840s and mice from Norfolk Island in 1860. [164] In 1918, the black rat] was accidentally introduced with the shipwreck of the SS Makambo, which ran aground at Ned's Beach. This triggered a second wave of extinctions, including the vinous-tinted thrush, robust white-eye, Lord Howe starling, Lord Howe fantail and the Lord Howe gerygone as well as the destruction of the native phasmid and decimation of palm fruits. [165] Bounties were offered for rat and pig tails and 'ratting' became a popular pursuit. Subsequent poisoning programs have kept populations low. [166] The Lord Howe boobook may have become extinct through predation by, or competition with, the Tasmanian masked owls, which were introduced in the 1920s in a failed attempt to control the rat population. [164] Stray dogs are also a threat as they could harm the native woodhen and other birds. [167]

Invasive plants such as Crofton weed and Formosa lily occur in inaccessible areas and probably cannot be eradicated, but others are currently being managed. [168] In 1995, the first action was taken to control the spread of introduced plants of the island, chiefly ground asparagus and bridal creeper, but also cherry guava, Madeira vine, Cotoneaster , Ochna , and Cestrum . This has been followed by weeding tours and the formation of the Friends of Lord Howe Island group in 2000. Programs have also been started to remove weeds from private properties and revegetate some formerly cultivated areas. [169] An environmental unit was created by the board and it includes a flora management officer and a permanent weed officer. Weeds have been mapped and an eradication program is in place, supported by improved education and quarantine procedures. [170]

Despite the large number of introduced species that harm Lord Howe's native flora and fauna, feral pigs and cats were eradicated by the early 2000s. [141] The goat population has been reduced to just a few animals, [171] and efforts are ongoing to control rodents and introduced plants. [169] [172] In July 2012, the Australian federal Environment Minister Tony Burke and the New South Wales Environment Minister Robyn Parker announced that the Australian and NSW governments would each contribute 50% of the estimated A$9 million cost of implementing a rodent eradication plan for the island, using aerial deployment of poison baits. [173] The plan was put to a local vote and is considered controversial. [174] A recovery program has restored the Lord Howe woodhen numbers from only 20 in 1970 to about 200 in 2000, which is close to carrying capacity. [167]

Climate change

According to an analysis by Tim Flannery, the ecosystem of Lord Howe Island is threatened by climate change and global warming, with the reefs at risk from rises in water temperature. [103] [175] The Great Barrier Reef is specifically identified as being at risk to the effects of global warming on Australia, and the same analysis applies to the reefs of Lord Howe Island.[ citation needed ] [176] Cool-climate flora and fauna are at risk from rises in temperature, because the scope for migration to higher altitudes is limited.[ citation needed ] The first international conference on global artificial photosynthesis as a climate-change solution occurred at Lord Howe Island in 2011, [177] the papers being published by the Australian Journal of Chemistry. [178]

Heritage listings

The Lord Howe Islands Group was inscribed on the World Heritage List for its unique landforms and biota, its diverse and largely intact ecosystems, natural beauty, and habitats for threatened species. It also has significant cultural heritage associations in the history of NSW. [18]

Lord Howe Island and adjacent islets, Admiralty Islands, Mutton Bird Islands, Ball's Pyramid, and associated coral reefs and marine environs were added to the Australian National Heritage List on 21 May 2007, on the basis of the World Heritage List. [17]

Lord Howe Island was listed on the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 2 April 1999. [18]

See also

Related Research Articles

Great Barrier Reef Coral reef system off the east coast of Australia, World Heritage Site

The Great Barrier Reef is the world's largest coral reef system composed of over 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands stretching for over 2,300 kilometres (1,400 mi) over an area of approximately 344,400 square kilometres (133,000 sq mi). The reef is located in the Coral Sea, off the coast of Queensland, Australia. The Great Barrier Reef can be seen from outer space and is the world's biggest single structure made by living organisms. This reef structure is composed of and built by billions of tiny organisms, known as coral polyps. It supports a wide diversity of life and was selected as a World Heritage Site in 1981. CNN labelled it one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The Queensland National Trust named it a state icon of Queensland.

Coffin Bay National Park Protected area in South Australia

Coffin Bay National Park is a protected area in on the Eyre Peninsula of South Australia, Australia, which is located about 301 km west of Adelaide and about 46 km west of Port Lincoln. The town of Coffin Bay is near the entrance to the national park. The national park occupies the Coffin Bay Peninsula - a long peninsula with a sheltered bay to its north, coastal dunes, swamps and a coastline which overlooks islands, reefs, limestone cliffs and white surf beaches.

Coral Sea A marginal sea of the South Pacific off the northeast coast of Australia

The Coral Sea is a marginal sea of the South Pacific off the northeast coast of Australia, and classified as an interim Australian bioregion. The Coral Sea extends 2,000 kilometres (1,200 mi) down the Australian northeast coast.

<i>Howea forsteriana</i> species of plant

Howea forsteriana is a species of flowering plant in the palm family Arecaeae, endemic to Lord Howe Island in Australia. It is also widely grown on Norfolk Island. It is a relatively slow-growing palm, eventually growing up to 10 m (33 ft) tall by 6 m (20 ft) wide. Its fronds can reach 3 m (10 ft) long. The palm received the name "forsteriana" after the naturalist father and son duo who accompanied Captain Cook's second voyage to the Pacific, Johann Reinhold Forster and Georg Forster.

Lord Howe Island Marine Park Protected area in Australia

Lord Howe Island Marine Park is the site of Australia's and the world's most southern coral reef ecosystem. The island is 10 km in length, 2 km wide and consists of a large lagoonal reef system along its leeward side, with 28 small islets along its coast. In 1999, the waters within three nautical miles of Lord Howe Island (465.45 km2) were declared a marine park under the NSW Marine Park Act 1997 to protect its unique marine biodiversity, with the park currently being managed by the New South Wales Marine Parks Authority. Both Lord Howe Island and Balls Pyramid are incorporated within the three nautical miles protected by the state marine park. Both marine parks complement the island's status as a World Heritage Site.

Lord Howe Rise A deep sea plateau from south west of New Caledonia to the Challenger Plateau, west of New Zealand

The Lord Howe Rise is a deep sea plateau which extends from south west of New Caledonia to the Challenger Plateau, west of New Zealand in the south west of the Pacific Ocean. To its west is the Tasman Basin and to the east is the New Caledonia Basin. Lord Howe Rise has a total area of about 1,500,000 square km, and generally lies about 750 to 1,200 metres under water. It is part of Zealandia, a much larger continent that is now mostly submerged, and so is composed of continental crust.

Elizabeth and Middleton Reefs Marine National Park Reserve geographical object

Elizabeth and Middleton Reefs Marine National Park Reserve is a former Marine protected area consisting of waters around Elizabeth and Middleton Reefs located at the south-eastern end of the Coral Sea Islands, an Australian territory in the Coral Sea and the north-western Tasman Sea. It was incorporated into the new Lord Howe Commonwealth Marine Reserve in December 2012. The two reefs also form a Ramsar site, having been listed as Ramsar Site 1223, on 21 October 2002, under the Ramsar Convention as a wetland of international importance.

Environment of Australia

The Australian environment ranges from virtually pristine Antarctic territory and rainforests to degraded industrial areas of major cities. Forty distinct ecoregions have been identified across the Australian mainland and islands.

<i>Howea belmoreana</i> species of plant

Howea belmoreana, the curly palm, kentia palm, or Belmore sentry palm, is a species of flowering plant in the family Arecaceae, endemic to Lord Howe Island, Australia. It and Howea forsteriana probably evolved from a common ancestor through sympatric speciation. The canopy of a mature kentia palm tree spreads 5–10 ft (2–3 m) in diameter and contains roughly 36 leaves.

Lord Howe silvereye subspecies of very small omnivorous passerine bird of the south-west pacific

The Lord Howe silvereye, also known as the Lord Howe white-eye, Lord Howe Island white-eye or, locally, as the "Little Grinnell", is a small bird in the white-eye family, Zosteropidae. It is a subspecies of the silvereye, though sometimes considered a full species. It is endemic to Lord Howe Island in the Tasman Sea, part of New South Wales, Australia.

Elizabeth Reef coral reef in the Tasman Sea

Elizabeth Reef29°57′25″S159°4′32″E is a coral reef in the Tasman Sea. The reef is separated by a deep oceanic pass, some 45 km wide, from nearby Middleton Reef, both of which are part of the underwater plateau known as the Lord Howe Rise. It is around 160 km from Lord Howe Island and 555 km from the New South Wales coast of Australia. The Environment, Sport and Territories Legislation Amendment Act 1997 included Elizabeth Reef in Australia's Coral Sea Islands Territory.

SS <i>Makambo</i>

SS Makambo was a steamship first owned by Burns Philp & Co. Ltd. She was built in Port Glasgow in Scotland and named after an island in the Solomon Islands. She carried both passengers and cargo and was principally used on routes between eastern Australia and islands in Melanesia and the Tasman Sea. In November 1908 Jack and Charmian London travelled from Guadalcanal to Sydney on the Makambo after abandoning their ill fated circumnavigation on the Snark, a 45' sailing yawl.

Lord Howe boobook subspecies of bird

The Lord Howe boobook, also known as the Lord Howe morepork, was a bird in the true owl family endemic to Lord Howe Island in the Tasman Sea, part of New South Wales, Australia. It is an extinct and little-known subspecies of the Southern boobook.

Lord Howe currawong subspecies of bird

The Lord Howe currawong, Lord Howe Island currawong or Lord Howe pied currawong, is a large and mainly black passerine bird in the Artamidae family. It is endemic to Lord Howe Island in the Tasman Sea, part of New South Wales, Australia, and is a threatened subspecies of the pied currawong.

Lord Howe golden whistler subspecies of bird

The Lord Howe golden whistler, also known as the Lord Howe whistler or Lord Howe Island golden whistler, and locally as the “robin” or “yellow robin”, is a small bird in the whistler family, Pachycephalidae. It is a subspecies of the Australian golden whistler that is endemic to Lord Howe Island in the Tasman Sea, part of New South Wales, Australia.

Mount Lidgbird mountain in Australia

Mount Lidgbird, also Mount Ledgbird and Big Hill, is located in the southern section of Lord Howe Island, just north of Mount Gower, from which it is separated by the saddle at the head of Erskine Valley, and has its peak at 777 metres (2,549 ft) above sea level.

Xylosma parvifolium, commonly known as mountain xylosma, is a plant in the willow family. It is endemic to the mountains of Australia's Lord Howe Island in the Tasman Sea.

Mount Gower mountain in Australia

Mount Gower also Big Hill, is the highest mountain on Australia’s subtropical Lord Howe Island in the Tasman Sea. With a height of 875 metres (2,871 ft) above sea level, and a relatively flat 27-hectare (67-acre) summit plateau, it stands at the southern end of Lord Howe, just south of the island's second highest peak, the 777-metre (2,549 ft) high Mount Lidgbird, from which it is separated by the saddle at the head of Erskine Valley.

Flag of Lord Howe Island

The Flag of Lord Howe Island is the unofficial flag of the island, an unincorporated area of New South Wales administered by the Lord Howe Island Board. The unofficial flag of Lord Howe Island, which was designed by Sydney-based vexillologist John Vaughan, was first flown in November 1998. The yellow centre of the flag evokes the island's topography and depicts a Kentia palm, while the surrounding area of flag utilizes the pre-1801 Union Jack, excluding the red of St George's Cross.

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Bibliography

Attribution

CC-BY-icon-80x15.png This Wikipedia article contains material from Lord Howe Island Group , entry number 00970 in the New South Wales State Heritage Register published by the State of New South Wales and Office of Environment and Heritage 2018 under CC-BY 4.0 licence , accessed on 2 June 2018.

Further reading