Mount Foraker

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Mount Foraker
Mt. Foraker. Shot from Talkeetna, Alaska (25711013851).jpg
Mount Foraker
Highest point
Elevation 17,400 ft (5304 m) [1] [2]
Prominence 7250 ft (2210 m) [2]
Parent peak Denali [2]
Isolation 14.27 mi (23.0 km) [2]
Coordinates 62°57′39″N151°23′53″W / 62.96083°N 151.39806°W / 62.96083; -151.39806 Coordinates: 62°57′39″N151°23′53″W / 62.96083°N 151.39806°W / 62.96083; -151.39806 [3]
Relief map of USA Alaska.png
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Mount Foraker
Location Denali Borough, Alaska, United States
Parent range Alaska Range
Topo map USGS Talkeetna D-3
First ascent August 10, 1934
Easiest route basic snow/ice

Mount Foraker is a 17,400-foot (5,304 m) mountain in the central Alaska Range, in Denali National Park, 14 mi (23 km) southwest of Denali. It is the second highest peak in the Alaska Range, and the third highest peak in the United States. It rises almost directly above the standard base camp for Denali, on a fork of the Kahiltna Glacier also near Mount Hunter in the Alaska Range.


Its north peak was first climbed on August 6, 1934, and its higher south peak was climbed four days later on August 10, by Charles Houston, T. Graham Brown, and Chychele Waterston, via the west ridge. [3] [4]


Mt. Foraker base camp Mt. Foraker base camp.jpg
Mt. Foraker base camp

Mount Foraker was named in 1899 by Lt. J. S. Herron after Joseph B. Foraker, then a sitting U.S. Senator from Ohio. [5]

The Denaʼina (formerly Tanaina) native peoples in the Lake Minchumina area had a broadside view of the mountains and thus gave distinctive names to both Foraker and Denali. According to Hudson Stuck, the Denaʼina had two names for Mount Foraker: Sultana meaning "the woman" and Menlale meaning "Denali's wife". [3] The Denaʼina of the Susitna River valley and Denaʼina to the north are reported to have had the same name (Denali) for Mt. Foraker as they had for Denali (previously Mount McKinley), and it appears that the names were not applied to individual peaks but instead to the Denali massif. The mountain, along with Denali, was called Bolshaya Gora ("big mountain") in Russian.[ citation needed ]

Notable ascents

Mt McKinley wide view from Kashwitna Lake.jpg
Mt Foraker, on the left, is 3,000' shorter than Denali on the right, but appears taller in this image due to foreshortening. Photo taken from Kashwitna Lake roughly 100 miles (160 km) south of the mountains. Mt Hunter is just to the left of Denali.

See also

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  1. "Elevations and Distances in the United States". United States Geological Survey. Retrieved 1 November 2015.
  2. 1 2 3 4 "Mount Foraker". Retrieved 2010-03-20.
  3. 1 2 3 "Mount Foraker". Geographic Names Information System . United States Geological Survey . Retrieved 2004-10-07.
  4. "Mount Foraker". Retrieved 2008-07-10.
  5. Geological Survey Professional Paper, Volume 567. U.S. Government Printing Office. 1967. p. 345.
  6. Roach, Gerard (1976). "The Archangel - Foraker's North Ridge". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 20 (50): 277. ISBN   978-0-930410-73-5.
  7. Carter. "American Alpine Club Journal".
  8. Bleser, Warren; Bertulis, Alex (1969). "Mount Foraker's South Ridge". American Alpine Journal. Philadelphia, PA, USA: American Alpine Club. 16 (43): 289–294.
  9. Reagan, Peter (1975). "Mount Foraker, Southeast Ridge". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 20 (49): 116.
  10. Roach, Gerard (1976). "The Archangel - Foraker's North Ridge". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 20 (50): 277–284. ISBN   978-0-930410-73-5.
  11. Agresti, Henri (1977). "Mount Foraker, South-Southeast Ridge". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 21 (51): 149–152.
  12. Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club Press. p. 263. ISBN   0-930410-83-1.
  13. LeRoy, Erik (1978). "Foraker's Southwest Ridge". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 21 (52): 359–365.
  14. Vachon, Daniel. "Foraker Pink Panther Route". American Alpine Journal. 27 (59).
  15. Bebie, Mark (1990). "Foraker's Infinite Spur". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 32 (64): 28–35. ISBN   0-930410-43-2.
  16. "False Dawn—Foraker". American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2015-03-14.Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  17. Haley, Colin. "Infinite Spur Laps" . Retrieved 8 May 2017.


  1. ^ This ranking includes Denali North Peak as number 2.