Mount Logan

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Mount Logan
Mount Logan.jpg
Mount Logan from the southeast
Highest point
Elevation 5,959 m (19,551 ft) [1]
Prominence 5,250 m (17,220 ft) [2]
Parent peak Denali [3]
Isolation 624 km (388 mi)  OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg
Coordinates 60°34′02″N140°24′19″W / 60.56722°N 140.40528°W / 60.56722; -140.40528 Coordinates: 60°34′02″N140°24′19″W / 60.56722°N 140.40528°W / 60.56722; -140.40528 [4]
Location map Yukon 2.png
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Mount Logan
Location in Yukon, Canada
Location Yukon, Canada
Parent range Saint Elias Mountains
Topo map NTS 115C/09 [4]
First ascent 1925 by A.H. MacCarthy et al.
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb

Mount Logan ( /ˈlɡən/ ) is the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest peak in North America after Denali. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park Reserve [5] in southwestern Yukon, less than 40 kilometres (25 mi) north of the Yukon–Alaska border. Mount Logan is the source of the Hubbard and Logan glaciers. Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference of any non-volcanic mountain on Earth (many shield volcanoes are much larger in size and mass), including a massif with eleven peaks over 5,000 metres (16,400 ft). [6] [7]


Due to active tectonic uplifting, Mount Logan is still rising in height. [8] Before 1992, the exact elevation of Mount Logan was unknown and measurements ranged from 5,959 to 6,050 metres (19,551 to 19,849 ft). In May 1992, a GSC expedition climbed Mount Logan and fixed the current height of 5,959 metres (19,551 ft) using GPS. [6] [9]

Temperatures are extremely low on and near Mount Logan. On the 5,000-metre-high (16,000 ft) plateau, air temperature hovers around −45 °C (−49 °F) in the winter and reaches near freezing in summer with the median temperature for the year around −27 °C (−17 °F). Minimal snow melt leads to a significant ice cap, reaching almost 300 metres (980 ft) in certain spots. [7]

Peaks of the massif

The Mount Logan massif is considered to contain all the surrounding peaks with less than 500 m (1,640 ft) of prominence, as listed below:

Main [2] 5,959 m (19,551 ft)5,250 m (17,224 ft) above Mentasta Pass 60°34′2″N140°24′19″W / 60.56722°N 140.40528°W / 60.56722; -140.40528 ((primary peak))
Philippe Peak (West) [10] 5,925 m (19,439 ft)265 m (869 ft) 60°34′42.6″N140°26′02.4″W / 60.578500°N 140.434000°W / 60.578500; -140.434000 (Philippe Peak)
Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak) [11] 5,898 m (19,350 ft)198 m (650 ft) 60°34′31.1″N140°22′00.1″W / 60.575306°N 140.366694°W / 60.575306; -140.366694 (Logan East Peak)
Houston's Peak [12] 5,740 m (18,832 ft)100 m (328 ft) 60°35′03.5″N140°27′20.5″W / 60.584306°N 140.455694°W / 60.584306; -140.455694 (Houston's Peak)
Prospector Peak [13] 5,644 m (18,517 ft)344 m (1,129 ft) 60°35′58.9″N140°30′40.7″W / 60.599694°N 140.511306°W / 60.599694; -140.511306 (Prospector Peak)
AINA Peak [14] 5,630 m (18,471 ft)130 m (427 ft) 60°36′31.8″N140°31′48.6″W / 60.608833°N 140.530167°W / 60.608833; -140.530167 (AINA Peak)
Russell Peak [15] 5,580 m (18,307 ft)80 m (262 ft) 60°35′31.2″N140°29′08.9″W / 60.592000°N 140.485806°W / 60.592000; -140.485806 (Russell Peak)
Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak) [16] 5,559 m (18,238 ft)219 m (719 ft) 60°36′58.2″N140°29′35.4″W / 60.616167°N 140.493167°W / 60.616167; -140.493167 (Tudor Peak)
Saxon Peak (Northeast) [17] 5,500 m (18,045 ft)80 m (262 ft) 60°37′12.0″N140°27′57.6″W / 60.620000°N 140.466000°W / 60.620000; -140.466000 (Saxon Peak)
Queen Peak [18] 5,380 m (17,651 ft)160 m (525 ft) 60°36′33.5″N140°35′12.5″W / 60.609306°N 140.586806°W / 60.609306; -140.586806 (Queen Peak)
Capet Peak (Northwest) [19] 5,250 m (17,224 ft)240 m (787 ft) 60°38′15.0″N140°32′41.3″W / 60.637500°N 140.544806°W / 60.637500; -140.544806 (Capet Peak)
Catenary Peak [20] 4,097 m (13,442 ft)397 m (1,302 ft) 60°36′36.0″N140°17′52.1″W / 60.610000°N 140.297806°W / 60.610000; -140.297806 (Catenary Peak)
Teddy Peak [21] 3,956 m (12,979 ft)456 m (1,496 ft) 60°32′37.7″N140°28′41.5″W / 60.543806°N 140.478194°W / 60.543806; -140.478194 (Teddy Peak)

Ascent attempts

First ascent

Mount Logan from the North East, as seen from Kluane Icefield Mountain and footprints.JPG
Mount Logan from the North East, as seen from Kluane Icefield

In 1922, a geologist approached the Alpine Club of Canada with the suggestion that the club send a team to the mountain to reach the summit for the first time. An international team of Canadian, British and American climbers was assembled and initially they had planned their attempt in 1924 but funding and preparation delays postponed the trip until 1925. The international team of climbers began their journey in early May, crossing the mainland from the Pacific coast by train. They then walked the remaining 200 kilometres (120 mi) to within 10 kilometres (6 mi) of the Logan Glacier where they established base camp. In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy (leader), H.F. Lambart, Allen Carpé, W.W. Foster, Norman H. Read and Andy Taylor stood on top for the first time. [7] [22] It had taken them 65 days to approach the mountain from the nearest town, McCarthy, summit and return, with all climbers intact. [23]

Subsequent notable ascents and attempts

A climber on the knife ridge (east ridge) Mount Logan Knife ridge, east ridge by Christian Stangl (flickr).jpg
A climber on the knife ridge (east ridge)
Mount Logan 3D view Mount Logan 3D version 1.gif
Mount Logan 3D view

Proposed renaming

Following the death of former Prime Minister of Canada Pierre Trudeau in 2000, then Prime Minister Jean Chrétien, a close friend of Trudeau, proposed renaming the mountain Mount Trudeau. [37] [38] However opposition from Yukoners, mountaineers, geologists, Trudeau's political critics, and many other Canadians forced the plan to be dropped. [39] A mountain in British Columbia's Premier Range was named Mount Pierre Elliott Trudeau instead. [40]

See also

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Mount Decoeli

Mount Decoeli is a 2,332-metre (7,651-foot) pyramidal peak located in the Kluane Ranges of the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon, Canada. The mountain is situated 23 km (14 mi) northwest of Haines Junction, 21.4 km (13 mi) east of Mount Cairnes, and can be seen from the Alaska Highway midway between the two. Its nearest higher peak is Mount Archibald, 6 km (3.7 mi) to the south. The mountain's name was officially adopted August 12, 1980, by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. James J. McArthur was a Canadian surveyor and mountaineer who undertook extensive surveying in the Yukon during his later years. In 1908 he made the first ascent of Williams Peak accompanied by Edmond Treau de Coeli (1873–1963). Decoeli is pronounced deh-sail-ee. To the Southern Tutchone people, the mountain is known as Nàday Gän, meaning Dried Lynx Mountain.

Mount Archibald

Mount Archibald is a prominent 2,588-metre (8,491-foot) mountain summit located in the Kluane Ranges of the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon, Canada. The mountain is situated 21 km (13 mi) west of Haines Junction, 5.9 km (4 mi) south of Mount Decoeli, and 27 km (17 mi) east-southeast of Mount Cairnes, which is the nearest higher peak. Set on the boundary line of Kluane National Park, Archibald can be seen from the Alaska Highway, weather permitting. The mountain was named after Edgar Archibald (1885-1968), a Canadian agricultural scientist. The mountain's name was officially adopted August 12, 1980, by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. On a clear day, the summit offers views deep into Kluane National Park of giants such as Mt. Logan, Mt. Vancouver, and Mt. Kennedy.


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  12. "Houston's Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  13. "Prospector Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  14. "AINA Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  15. "Russell Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  16. "Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  17. "Saxon Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  18. "Queen Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  19. "Capet Peak (Northwest Peak)". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  20. "Catenary Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  21. "Teddy Peak". Retrieved July 15, 2007.
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