Mount Logan

Last updated

Mount Logan
Mount Logan.jpg
Mount Logan from the southeast
Highest point
Elevation 5,959 m (19,551 ft) [1]
Prominence 5,250 m (17,220 ft) [2]
Parent peak Denali [3]
Isolation 624 km (388 mi)  OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg
Listing
Coordinates 60°34′02″N140°24′19″W / 60.56722°N 140.40528°W / 60.56722; -140.40528 Coordinates: 60°34′02″N140°24′19″W / 60.56722°N 140.40528°W / 60.56722; -140.40528 [4]
Geography
Location map Yukon 2.png
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Mount Logan
Location in Yukon, Canada
Location Yukon, Canada
Parent range Saint Elias Mountains
Topo map NTS 115C/09 [4]
Climbing
First ascent 1925 by A.H. MacCarthy et al.
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb

Mount Logan ( /ˈlɡən/ ) is the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest peak in North America after Denali. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park Reserve [5] in southwestern Yukon, less than 40 kilometres (25 mi) north of the Yukon–Alaska border. Mount Logan is the source of the Hubbard and Logan glaciers. Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference of any non-volcanic mountain on Earth (many shield volcanoes are much larger in size and mass), including a massif with eleven peaks over 5,000 metres (16,400 ft). [6] [7]

Contents

Due to active tectonic uplifting, Mount Logan is still rising in height. [8] Before 1992, the exact elevation of Mount Logan was unknown and measurements ranged from 5,959 to 6,050 metres (19,551 to 19,849 ft). In May 1992, a GSC expedition climbed Mount Logan and fixed the current height of 5,959 metres (19,551 ft) using GPS. [6] [9]

Temperatures are extremely low on and near Mount Logan. On the 5,000-metre-high (16,000 ft) plateau, air temperature hovers around −45 °C (−49 °F) in the winter and reaches near freezing in summer with the median temperature for the year around −27 °C (−17 °F). Minimal snow melt leads to a significant ice cap, reaching almost 300 metres (980 ft) in certain spots. [7]

Peaks of the massif

The Mount Logan massif is considered to contain all the surrounding peaks with less than 500 m (1,640 ft) of prominence, as listed below:

PeakHeightProminenceCoordinates
Main [2] 5,959 m (19,551 ft)5,250 m (17,224 ft) above Mentasta Pass 60°34′2″N140°24′19″W / 60.56722°N 140.40528°W / 60.56722; -140.40528 ((primary peak))
Philippe Peak (West) [10] 5,925 m (19,439 ft)265 m (869 ft) 60°34′42.6″N140°26′02.4″W / 60.578500°N 140.434000°W / 60.578500; -140.434000 (Philippe Peak)
Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak) [11] 5,898 m (19,350 ft)198 m (650 ft) 60°34′31.1″N140°22′00.1″W / 60.575306°N 140.366694°W / 60.575306; -140.366694 (Logan East Peak)
Houston's Peak [12] 5,740 m (18,832 ft)100 m (328 ft) 60°35′03.5″N140°27′20.5″W / 60.584306°N 140.455694°W / 60.584306; -140.455694 (Houston's Peak)
Prospector Peak [13] 5,644 m (18,517 ft)344 m (1,129 ft) 60°35′58.9″N140°30′40.7″W / 60.599694°N 140.511306°W / 60.599694; -140.511306 (Prospector Peak)
AINA Peak [14] 5,630 m (18,471 ft)130 m (427 ft) 60°36′31.8″N140°31′48.6″W / 60.608833°N 140.530167°W / 60.608833; -140.530167 (AINA Peak)
Russell Peak [15] 5,580 m (18,307 ft)80 m (262 ft) 60°35′31.2″N140°29′08.9″W / 60.592000°N 140.485806°W / 60.592000; -140.485806 (Russell Peak)
Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak) [16] 5,559 m (18,238 ft)219 m (719 ft) 60°36′58.2″N140°29′35.4″W / 60.616167°N 140.493167°W / 60.616167; -140.493167 (Tudor Peak)
Saxon Peak (Northeast) [17] 5,500 m (18,045 ft)80 m (262 ft) 60°37′12.0″N140°27′57.6″W / 60.620000°N 140.466000°W / 60.620000; -140.466000 (Saxon Peak)
Queen Peak [18] 5,380 m (17,651 ft)160 m (525 ft) 60°36′33.5″N140°35′12.5″W / 60.609306°N 140.586806°W / 60.609306; -140.586806 (Queen Peak)
Capet Peak (Northwest) [19] 5,250 m (17,224 ft)240 m (787 ft) 60°38′15.0″N140°32′41.3″W / 60.637500°N 140.544806°W / 60.637500; -140.544806 (Capet Peak)
Catenary Peak [20] 4,097 m (13,442 ft)397 m (1,302 ft) 60°36′36.0″N140°17′52.1″W / 60.610000°N 140.297806°W / 60.610000; -140.297806 (Catenary Peak)
Teddy Peak [21] 3,956 m (12,979 ft)456 m (1,496 ft) 60°32′37.7″N140°28′41.5″W / 60.543806°N 140.478194°W / 60.543806; -140.478194 (Teddy Peak)

Ascent attempts

First ascent

Mount Logan from the North East, as seen from Kluane Icefield Mountain and footprints.JPG
Mount Logan from the North East, as seen from Kluane Icefield

In 1922, a geologist approached the Alpine Club of Canada with the suggestion that the club send a team to the mountain to reach the summit for the first time. An international team of Canadian, British and American climbers was assembled and initially they had planned their attempt in 1924 but funding and preparation delays postponed the trip until 1925. The international team of climbers began their journey in early May, crossing the mainland from the Pacific coast by train. They then walked the remaining 200 kilometres (120 mi) to within 10 kilometres (6 mi) of the Logan Glacier where they established base camp. In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy (leader), H.F. Lambart, Allen Carpé, W.W. Foster, Norman H. Read and Andy Taylor stood on top for the first time. [7] [22] It had taken them 65 days to approach the mountain from the nearest town, McCarthy, summit and return, with all climbers intact. [23]

Subsequent notable ascents and attempts

A climber on the knife ridge (east ridge) Mount Logan Knife ridge, east ridge by Christian Stangl (flickr).jpg
A climber on the knife ridge (east ridge)
Mount Logan 3D view Mount Logan 3D version 1.gif
Mount Logan 3D view

Proposed renaming

Following the death of former Prime Minister of Canada Pierre Trudeau in 2000, then Prime Minister Jean Chrétien, a close friend of Trudeau, proposed renaming the mountain Mount Trudeau. [37] [38] However opposition from Yukoners, mountaineers, geologists, Trudeau's political critics, and many other Canadians forced the plan to be dropped. [39] A mountain in British Columbia's Premier Range was named Mount Pierre Elliott Trudeau instead. [40]

See also

Related Research Articles

K2 2nd-highest mountain on Earth

K2, at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) above sea level, is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest. It lies in the Karakoram range, in part in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir and in part in a China-administered territory of the Kashmir region included in the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang.

Mount Waddington Mountain in British Columbia, Canada

Mount Waddington, once known as Mystery Mountain, is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Although it is lower than Mount Fairweather and Mount Quincy Adams, which straddle the United States border between Alaska and British Columbia, Mount Waddington is the highest peak that lies entirely within British Columbia. It and the subrange which surround it, known as the Waddington Range, stand at the heart of the Pacific Ranges, a remote and extremely rugged set of mountains and river valleys.

Denali Highest mountain in North America

Denali is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) above sea level. With a topographic prominence of 20,194 feet (6,155 m) and a topographic isolation of 4,621.1 miles (7,436.9 km), Denali is the third most prominent and third most isolated peak on Earth, after Mount Everest and Aconcagua. Located in the Alaska Range in the interior of the U.S. state of Alaska, Denali is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.

Makalu Eight-thousander and 5th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal and China

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,485 metres (27,838 ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region, China. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid.

Mount Robson Mountain in British Columbia, Canada

Mount Robson is the most prominent mountain in North America's Rocky Mountain range; it is also the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain is located entirely within Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, and is part of the Rainbow Range. Mount Robson is the second highest peak entirely in British Columbia, behind Mount Waddington in the Coast Range. The south face of Mount Robson is clearly visible from the Yellowhead Highway, and is commonly photographed along this route.

Dhaulagiri Mountain in Nepal; 7th highest in world

The Dhaulagiri massif in Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River west to the Bheri. This massif is bounded on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri River and on the southeast by the Myagdi Khola. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.

Mount Alberta Mountain in Jasper NP, Alberta, Canada

Mount Alberta is a mountain located in the upper Athabasca River Valley of Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. J. Norman Collie named the mountain in 1898 after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta. It is the most difficult of the 11,000ers from a climbing point of view.

Mount Forbes Mountain in Banff NP, Canada

Mount Forbes is the seventh tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies and the tallest within the boundaries of Banff National Park. It is located in southwestern Alberta, 18 km (11 mi) southwest of the Saskatchewan River Crossing in Banff. The mountain was named by James Hector in 1859 after Edward Forbes, Hector's natural history professor at the University of Edinburgh during the mid-19th century.

Mount Saint Elias Mountain in Alaska and the Yukon Territory on the United States–Canada border

Mount Saint Elias, the second-highest mountain in both Canada and the United States, stands on the Yukon and Alaska border about 26 miles (42 km) southwest of Mount Logan, the highest mountain in Canada. The Canadian side of Mount Saint Elias forms part of Kluane National Park and Reserve, while the U.S. side of the mountain is located within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.

Mount Lucania

Mount Lucania is the third-highest mountain in Canada, and the second-highest mountain located entirely within the country. A long ridge connects Mount Lucania with Mount Steele, the fifth-highest in Canada. Lucania was named by the Duke of Abruzzi, as he stood on the summit of Mount Saint Elias on July 31, 1897, having just completed the first ascent. Seeing Lucania in the far distance, beyond Mount Logan, he immediately named it "after the ship on which the expedition had sailed from Liverpool to New York," the RMS Lucania.

Mount Vancouver Mountain in Canada and USA

Mount Vancouver is the 15th highest mountain in North America. Its southern side lies in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve at the top of the Alaska panhandle, while its northern side is in Kluane National Park and Reserve in the southwestern corner of Yukon, Canada. Mount Vancouver has three summits: north, middle, and south, with the middle summit being the lowest. The south summit, Good Neighbor Peak at 4,785 m (15,699 ft), straddles the international border while the north summit is slightly higher at 4,812 m (15,787 ft).

Mount Foraker Mountain in Alaska, United States

Mount Foraker is a 17,400-foot (5,304 m) mountain in the central Alaska Range, in Denali National Park, 14 mi (23 km) southwest of Denali. It is the second highest peak in the Alaska Range, and the third highest peak in the United States. It rises almost directly above the standard base camp for Denali, on a fork of the Kahiltna Glacier also near Mount Hunter in the Alaska Range.

Mount Kennedy

Mount Kennedy is a peak in the Saint Elias Mountains within Kluane National Park, in Yukon, Canada. Its 4250-m to 4300-m (14000-foot) summit lies within 10 km of the Alaska Panhandle. Dusty Glacier lies against it to the north.

Mount Saskatchewan (Yukon)

Mount Saskatchewan is a mountain in the extreme southwestern corner of Yukon in Kluane National Park and Reserve. The peak was named in 1967 for the province of Saskatchewan to mark Canada's centennial. As of 2012, the mountain is the only peak named after a Canadian province or territory – there are 11 others in the Yukon's Centennial Range – that remains unclimbed.

Mount Augusta

Mount Augusta, also designated Boundary Peak 183, is a high peak in the state of Alaska.

Mount Cook (Saint Elias Mountains)

Mount Cook is a high peak on the Yukon Territory-Alaska border, in the Saint Elias Mountains of North America. It is approximately 15 miles southwest of Mount Vancouver and 35 miles east-southeast of Mount Saint Elias. It forms one of the corners of the jagged border, which is defined to run in straight lines between the major peaks. The same border also separates Kluane National Park in the Yukon Territory from Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve in Alaska.

The Centennial Range is a sub-range of the Saint Elias Mountains. It is located inside Kluane National Park and Reserve in the far west of Yukon Territory in Canada. It consists of fourteen major peaks, and was named for Canada's Centennial in 1967. Its peaks bear the names of Canada's provinces and territories, with the exception of Nunavut, which was not a territory at the time. The tallest point is Centennial Peak. Nine of the peaks were climbed as part of the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition, part of the 1967 celebrations.

Don Morrison (mountaineer)

Donald Kenneth Morrison was a British climber and mountaineer. Morrison first became known as a pioneer rock climber in Canada, then in England's Peak District and he led three expeditions to the Himalayas. He died in 1977 leading an attempt on Latok II peak in the Karakoram.

Mount Decoeli

Mount Decoeli is a 2,332-metre (7,651-foot) pyramidal peak located in the Kluane Ranges of the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon, Canada. The mountain is situated 23 km (14 mi) northwest of Haines Junction, 21.4 km (13 mi) east of Mount Cairnes, and can be seen from the Alaska Highway midway between the two. Its nearest higher peak is Mount Archibald, 6 km (3.7 mi) to the south. The mountain's name was officially adopted August 12, 1980, by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. James J. McArthur was a Canadian surveyor and mountaineer who undertook extensive surveying in the Yukon during his later years. In 1908 he made the first ascent of Williams Peak accompanied by Edmond Treau de Coeli (1873–1963). Decoeli is pronounced deh-sail-ee. To the Southern Tutchone people, the mountain is known as Nàday Gän, meaning Dried Lynx Mountain.

Mount Archibald

Mount Archibald is a prominent 2,588-metre (8,491-foot) mountain summit located in the Kluane Ranges of the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon, Canada. The mountain is situated 21 km (13 mi) west of Haines Junction, 5.9 km (4 mi) south of Mount Decoeli, and 27 km (17 mi) east-southeast of Mount Cairnes, which is the nearest higher peak. Set on the boundary line of Kluane National Park, Archibald can be seen from the Alaska Highway, weather permitting. The mountain was named after Edgar Archibald (1885-1968), a Canadian agricultural scientist. The mountain's name was officially adopted August 12, 1980, by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. On a clear day, the summit offers views deep into Kluane National Park of giants such as Mt. Logan, Mt. Vancouver, and Mt. Kennedy.

References

  1. "Yukon, Northwest Territories and Nunavut Ultra-Prominences". Peaklist.org. Retrieved March 25, 2015.
  2. 1 2 "Mount Logan". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  3. "Mount Logan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved August 27, 2010.
  4. 1 2 "Mount Logan". Geographical Names Data Base. Natural Resources Canada . Retrieved September 6, 2019.
  5. "Kluane National Park and Reserve of Canada". Parks Canada. Retrieved August 1, 2010.
  6. 1 2 "Mount Logan". Geological Survey of Canada. Archived from the original on September 21, 2012. Retrieved April 12, 2007.
  7. 1 2 3 "Mount Logan: Canadian Titan". Virtual Museum of Canada. Retrieved September 18, 2008.
  8. Roots, Charlie F.; Currie, Lisel D. (1993). "Geodetic and geological observations from the 1992 Mount Logan expedition, Yukon Territory". Paper 93-1A: Current Research, Part a Cordillera and Pacific Margin. Geological Survey of Canada: 22. doi: 10.4095/134186 .
  9. "How scientists solved the mystery of Mount Logan's true height". Canadian Geographic. May 4, 2017 [1992]. Retrieved February 15, 2019.
  10. "Philippe Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  11. "Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak)". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  12. "Houston's Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  13. "Prospector Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  14. "AINA Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  15. "Russell Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  16. "Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  17. "Saxon Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  18. "Queen Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  19. "Capet Peak (Northwest Peak)". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  20. "Catenary Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  21. "Teddy Peak". Bivouac.com. Retrieved July 15, 2007.
  22. "Conquering Mount Logan". Parks Canada. Archived from the original on December 12, 2017. Retrieved April 12, 2007.
  23. Sherman pp. 1–38
  24. Selters pp. 170–171
  25. Selters pp. 179-182
  26. Arctic Institute of North America Newsletter, November 1967
  27. Scott pp. 319–320
  28. Hirt, Roger (1979). "Mount Logan's West Ridge". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved February 15, 2019.
  29. Down, Michael (1980). "Climbs and Expeditions". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 22 (53): 559. ISSN   0065-6925.
  30. Jotterand, Raymond (1980). "Climbs and Expeditions". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 22 (53): 557–559. ISSN   0065-6925.
  31. Sept/Oct. Canadian Geographic. 1992.
  32. "ACC Accident report for May 2005". Alpine Club of Canada - Edmonton section. Archived from the original on October 16, 2007. Retrieved April 12, 2007.
  33. "B.C. teen becomes youngest climber to reach Canada's highest peak". June 4, 2017. Retrieved June 4, 2017.
  34. "Monique Richard is First Woman to Solo Mount Logan". Gripped Magazine. June 1, 2018. Retrieved August 4, 2019.
  35. Banerjee, Sidhartha (May 31, 2018). "Quebec woman reaches summit of Mount Logan in solo trek". CBC.ca. Retrieved August 4, 2019.
  36. "Monique Richard Rescued After Record-Breaking Mount Logan Solo". Rock and Ice. Retrieved August 4, 2019.
  37. "Mount Logan to become Mount Trudeau". CBC News. October 5, 2000. Archived from the original on October 16, 2007. Retrieved April 12, 2007.
  38. "Highest peak to be Trudeau Mountain". Globe and Mail. October 5, 2000. Archived from the original on September 30, 2007. Retrieved April 12, 2007.
  39. "Government backtracks on renaming Mount Logan". Globe and Mail. October 17, 2000. Retrieved February 15, 2019.
  40. "Former PM honoured". The Robson Valley Times. June 15, 2006. Archived from the original on September 27, 2007.

Bibliography