Tokoyama

Last updated

A tokoyama dressing the hair of professional sumo wrestler Takayasu Da Xiang Pu Chuan Qi Chang Suo 2017 (33234081643).jpg
A tokoyama dressing the hair of professional sumo wrestler Takayasu

A tokoyama (床山) is a traditional Japanese hairdresser specializing in the theatrical arts (kabuki and bunraku ) and professional sumo. The tokoyama trade is the result of a slow evolution from the traditional Japanese barbers of the Edo period, some of whom gradually started to specialize in hairstyles of actors, puppets, and rikishi . The word tokoyama uses a Japanese character meaning 'floor', because in the Edo period barbers had shops on simple raised floors. [1] [2]

Contents

Tokoyama use a variety of traditional techniques and tools, mainly combs, spikes and strings, to style the hair after oiling it. Although tokoyama maintain the use of techniques inherited from the Edo period, it is becoming increasingly difficult to maintain a traditional practice with the gradual disappearance of the craftsmen producing the oils and tools needed for traditional hairdressing.

Tokoyama maintain close relationships with those whose hair they arrange, often assigned to the particular service of a small group of people. In kabuki, this relationship leads the tokoyama to choose a specialization that will lead them to follow only actors dedicated to a particular style of acting. In bunraku, the hairdressers carry out the decisions of stewards who choose the hairstyles. In sumo, tokoyama are seen as essential elements of the sport, helping to maintain its traditional appearance.

Traditional theater

Kabuki

A kabuki tokoyama with various wigs backstage at a traditional theater. Japanese wig master.jpg
A kabuki tokoyama with various wigs backstage at a traditional theater.

In kabuki, the hairstyle, and more specifically the wig, is an important element of the art, as no actor appears on stage without one. [3] The craftsmen who comb the actors' hair are called tokoyama. [3] They are not responsible for creating the wigs (which is the responsibility of wig makers called the katsuraya), but for fitting and finishing them before the actors go on stage. [4] Kabuki tokoyama are the only ones to be divided into groups called sangai tokoyama (三階床山, lit. 'third floor tokoyama') and nikai tokoyama (二階床山, lit. 'second floor tokoyama'). [5] These names were inspired by the floors of the Kabuki-za on which the tokoyama work on their wigs. [6] With each group of tokoyama comes a specialization, and the 'second floor' tokoyama specialize in styling the hair of actors playing female roles, while the 'third floor' specialize in styling male characters. [7] Cases where a tokoyama does not specialize are rare, but they do exist. [8] Kabuki tokoyama are assigned to specific actors on a full-time basis. [6] [8]

Bunraku

In bunraku , puppets are coiffed like real actors. [9] Bunraku puppet theater is organized into two guilds. One, the Bunraku Kyokai, groups together the artists ( shamisen players, puppeteers and narrators), while the other, the National Bunraku Theatre, groups together the support professions (costume and doll-head stewards). Tokoyama belong to the latter organization. [9] Unlike in kabuki, the tokoyama in bunraku are responsible for both creating the wig and styling it. [9] In bunraku, the tokoyama receives instructions from the kashirawari-iin, a theater steward selecting puppet heads from about 400 options, to show subtle differences in what the characters are expressing. [10] Once the wig has been chosen, the tokoyama is then responsible for styling it to match the puppet. [10] There are about 120 different hairstyles, with about 80 for men and 40 for women. [9]

Sumo

Former sekiwake Fusanishiki getting his hair done in 1961 Fusanishiki 1961 Scan10016.JPG
Former sekiwake Fusanishiki getting his hair done in 1961

In professional sumo, the tokoyama are employed by the Japan Sumo Association to cut and prepare wrestlers' hair, which is then styled in a chonmage style. [11] [12] Historically, wrestlers went to public barbershops to get their hair done. [13] However, during the Meiji era, traditional barbers gradually disappeared as Western hairstyles became fashionable. [13] [14] To continue styling the hair of wrestlers who had maintained the tradition of wearing the chonmage topknot, tokoyama were borrowed for a time from kabuki theaters to serve wrestlers during tournaments. [13] [14] Eventually, tokoyama became an integral part of professional sumo and began training specifically to style the wrestlers' hair. [13]

Today, the Sumo Association employs the tokoyama and ranks them according to experience and ability. [15] There are around 50 tokoyama employed by the Sumo Association at all times, [14] [16] but new positions can be created if a stable with more than 12 wrestlers and no hairdresser requests so. [17] Apprentices, all men aged 15 to 19, [17] are attached to a sumo stable like other personnel such as gyōji (referee) or yobidashi (handymen). [1] [13] [15] Stables that do not have their own tokoyama can rely on hairdressers from other stables belonging to the same ichimon (clan) to do their wrestlers' hair. [13] [14] Each tokoyama learns his trade from a senior member of staff. [15] If a tokoyama's stable doesn't have a more experienced hairdresser, a hairdresser from the same ichimon will take over the apprenticeship. [17] Tokoyama must train for at least seven years before they are considered capable of working on their own. [18] Only the most senior tokoyama are entitled to prepare the more ornate ōichonmage, the ginkgo leaf shaped topknot which sekitori -ranked wrestlers wear in their bouts and on other formal occasions. [14] This usually only happens after ten years' experience. [19] [20]

Tokoyama are divided into a hierarchical system that does not follow the names of sumo divisions, unlike the gyōji and yobidashi . [21] Beginners start at fifth class (gotō) and are promoted according to their years of service and skills until they reach first class (ittō). [21] Tokoyama are not considered qualified craftsmen (shikakusha) until they are promoted to the rank of second class (nitō). [22] Promotion to third class takes around 10 years, while promotion to second and first class takes around 20 and 30 years respectively. [17] When promoted to second class, tokoyama receive a higher salary and a bonus during tournaments. [22] When they have reached first class and have demonstrated exceptional skill, tokoyama can ascend to tokutō, or 'special class' tokoyama. [21] Promotion to this rank has very strict prerequisites and the tokoyama must have served for around 45 years and have demonstrated "excellent talents". [17] [21] There is normally a maximum of two tokoyama at this rank, [11] although three special class tokoyama coexisted in 2019 (Tokohachi, Tokomatsu and Tokoyodo). [23] Special class tokoyama are the only ones allowed to style the topknot of a yokozuna , a sumo wrestler of the highest rank. [11] Tokoyama are subject to mandatory retirement at the age of 65. [20]

In professional sumo, tokoyama work under a pseudonym that always starts with the kanji for 'floor' or 'bed' ( 床 , pronounced toko) in their names. [14] The rest of the tokoyama's name is usually derived from a kanji in his personal name, or from a kanji borrowed from the stable to which he belongs. [14] [21] Unlike gyōji, tokoyama names cannot be passed on and are therefore unique. [17]

Special class tokoyama have also appeared on the banzuke since January 2008 and in January 2012, first-class tokoyama were also added. [17]

Wrestlers' hairstyles are so important in the culture of sumo that the tokoyama profession is highly valued, with some former wrestlers employing their own hairdressers on their own money, like Taihō. [24] Some wrestlers create close ties with their hairdresser, such as former yokozuna Hakuhō, whose hair was combed throughout his career by the same tokoyama, former special class tokoyama Tokohachi. [16] [25] The importance of tokoyama also extends to the founding of new stables, as their opening may be called into question if they are unable to obtain a hairdresser. [24]

Styling the haircut

A tokoyama styling the ōichonmage of Tamawashi

Depending on the environment in which they work, tokoyama may use strictly traditional tools, while others have more freedom and also use modern tools. Regardless of their professional environment, all the tokoyama use a special ointment called binzuke (also spelled bintsuke), renowned for its sturdiness, making it ideal for elaborate hairstyles. [26] [27] [28] In sumo, the tokoyama only use binzuke produced by a company in Edogawa, Tokyo. [29] In bunraku, tokoyama can make the most use of modern tools in hairstyling, such as hairsprays and hair dryers. [30] However, they can not use oil in puppet headgear, as the puppet heads, made of cypress, would lose adhesion when color pigments are applied during restoration. [9] [31]

In both sumo and kabuki, the tokoyama use two kinds of oil (called sukiyu and chuneri) produced specifically for the manufacture of wigs. [32] [33] Sumo tokoyama use a sukiyu ointment made traditionally from rapeseed, Japan wax and vanilla fragrance. [29] [34] This ointment has a distinctive scent that is associated with professional sumo. [34] [35]

Professional sumo and kabuki tokoyama use combs and picks of various sizes. [14] [32] The special handmade combs are called kushi. [36] Generally, these tools were made in the Kyoto Prefecture, [37] although it seems that the last company to manufacture them is now based in Nagoya. [11] Each type of comb is made from a different type of wood. [38] An araigushi comb is first used on the hair, followed by a sukigushi to spread out the ointment and shine the hair. [29] [38] A soroigushi is used to tidy up the hair when everything is done. [38] A maekaki is used only to make the ōichō style of topknot, where the hair is then spread out using a metal pick called a magebo. [29] [38] In sumo, it is also common for tokoyama to grow a thumbnail to facilitate styling. [14]

As of the 2020s, however, it is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain the traditional tools and balms used to style the haircuts, as the craftsmen who produce them are all gradually retiring without replacement. [34] This is notably the case of paper strings (called motoyui) used to tie up the hair of sumo wrestlers and kabuki actors' wigs, [32] which were made by just one craftsman in Iida, Nagano until he was forced to close down his business for good in 2020, when all activities requiring his strings (sumo, kabuki, period drama) ceased due to COVID-19. [34] In recent years, however, a few craftsmen have taken over the traditional manufacturing activities and two craftsmen now continue to produce motoyui. [39] [40] Ointment for wrestlers' heads is also in short supply, with fewer and fewer companies able to manufacture it due particularly to recruitment difficulties and the lack of a market with sufficient demand, and existing family businesses are unable to continue their activities after the current managers retire. [34]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kabuki</span> Classical Japanese dance-drama

Kabuki is a classical form of Japanese theatre, mixing dramatic performance with traditional dance. Kabuki theatre is known for its heavily stylised performances, its glamorous, highly decorated costumes, and for the elaborate kumadori make-up worn by some of its performers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sumo</span> Japanese martial art

Sumo is a form of competitive full-contact wrestling where a rikishi (wrestler) attempts to force his opponent out of a circular ring (dohyō) or into touching the ground with any body part other than the soles of his feet.

<i>Bunraku</i> Traditional Japanese puppet theatre

Bunraku is a form of traditional Japanese puppet theatre, founded in Osaka in the beginning of the 17th century, which is still performed in the modern day. Three kinds of performers take part in a bunraku performance: the Ningyōtsukai or Ningyōzukai (puppeteers), the tayū (chanters), and shamisen musicians. Occasionally other instruments such as taiko drums will be used. The combination of chanting and shamisen playing is called jōruri and the Japanese word for puppet is ningyō. It is used in many plays.

<i>Rikishi</i> Professional sumo wrestler

A rikishi (力士), sumōtori (相撲取り) or, more colloquially, osumōsan (お相撲さん), is a sumo wrestler. Although used to define all wrestlers participating in sumo wrestling matches, the term is more commonly used to refer to professional wrestlers, employed by the Japan Sumo Association, who participate in professional sumo tournaments in Japan, the only country where sumo is practiced professionally.

<i>Kanzashi</i> Traditional Japanese hair ornaments

Kanzashi are hair ornaments used in traditional Japanese hairstyles. The term kanzashi refers to a wide variety of accessories, including long, rigid hairpins, barrettes, fabric flowers and fabric hair ties.

<i>Chonmage</i> Traditional Japanese mens hairstyle

The chonmage (丁髷) is a type of traditional Japanese topknot haircut worn by men. It is most commonly associated with the Edo period (1603–1868) and samurai, and in recent times with sumo wrestlers. It was originally a method of using hair to hold a samurai kabuto helmet steady atop the head in battle, and became a status symbol among Japanese society.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bun (hairstyle)</span> Type of hairstyle

A bun is a type of hairstyle in which the hair is pulled back from the face, twisted or plaited, and wrapped in a circular coil around itself, typically on top or back of the head or just above the neck. A bun can be secured with a hair tie, barrette, bobby pins, one or more hair sticks, a hairnet, or a pen or pencil. Hair may also be wrapped around a piece called a "rat". Alternatively, hair bun inserts, or sometimes rolled up socks, may also be used to create donut-shaped buns. Buns may be tightly gathered, or loose and more informal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kokonoe stable</span>

Kokonoe stable is a stable of sumo wrestlers, one of the Takasago group of stables. It was formed in 1967 and until 2021 was located in Ishiwara, Sumida, Tokyo. As of January 2023 it had 26 sumo wrestlers, four of whom are of sekitori rank. It is the most successful stable in terms of total yūshō won by its wrestlers, with 52.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tagonoura stable (2013)</span>

Tagonoura stable, formerly Naruto stable is a stable of sumo wrestlers, one of the Nishonoseki group of stables.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Isegahama stable (2007)</span> Stable of sumo wrestlers

Isegahama stable, formerly known as Ajigawa stable from 1979 to 2007, is a stable of sumo wrestlers, part of the Isegahama ichimon or group of stables. Its current head coach is former yokozuna Asahifuji.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Izutsu stable</span>

Izutsu stable was a stable of sumo wrestlers, part of the Tokitsukaze group of stables. Its last incarnation was in existence from 1972 until 2019.

<i>Nihongami</i> Traditional Japanese hairstyles

Nihongami is the term used for a number of traditional Japanese hairstyles considered to be distinctive in their construction and societal role.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sadogatake stable</span>

Sadogatake stable is a stable of sumo wrestlers, one of the Nishonoseki group of stables. In its modern form, it dates from September 1955, when it was set up by former komusubi Kotonishiki Noboru. Former yokozuna Kotozakura took over the running of the stable in 1974 following Kotonishiki's death. The stable is located in Matsudo, Chiba prefecture. Over the next thirty years the stable produced a string of top division wrestlers. Kotozakura stood down in November 2005, handing the stable over to his son-in-law, former sekiwake Kotonowaka.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kasugano stable</span> Sumo school in Ryōgoku, Tokyo, Japan

Kasugano stable is a stable of sumo wrestlers, part of the Dewanoumi ichimon or group of stables. As of January 2023 it had 17 wrestlers. It has been led by former sekiwake Tochinowaka Kiyotaka since 2003. It was one of the most successful stables in 2013, with six sekitori wrestlers, including now retired Georgian Tochinoshin and Japanese born Tochinowaka Michihiro, who used the current head coach's old ring name.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sakaigawa stable</span>

Sakaigawa stable is a stable of sumo wrestlers, part of the Dewanoumi group of stables. It was established in its modern form on 25 May 1998 by former komusubi Ryōgoku Kajinosuke IV, who branched off from Dewanoumi stable. It was originally called Nakadachi stable, but when Sakaigawa-oyakata reached the Japan Sumo Association's mandatory retirement age in February 2003, he passed on the Sakaigawa name, and the stable was renamed. As of January 2023, it had 19 wrestlers, with four of them ranked in the two top professional divisions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Michinoku stable</span> Stable of sumo wrestlers

The Michinoku stable was a stable of sumo wrestlers, part of the Tokitsukaze ichimon or group of stables. It was established in 1974 by former maegashira Hoshikabuto, who branched off from Izutsu stable, and closed in April 2024, at the time of the retirement of former ōzeki Kirishima, who became the stable head coach in December 1997.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Genroku culture</span>

Genroku culture is the term used to describe the culture of the early Edo period (1603–1867), in particular the Genroku era of 1688–1704. Genroku culture is known as a period of luxurious display when the arts were increasingly patronized by a growing and powerful merchant class. The Genroku period is associated with two pleasure zones: the brothel district and the theaters. These two areas were often located near each other on the margins of respectable society. These constituted the ukiyo celebrated in woodblock prints of prostitutes, actors, and pornography.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kotoinazuma Yoshihiro</span>

Kotoinazuma Yoshihiro is a former sumo wrestler from Niiharu, Gunma, Japan. He made his professional debut in 1978, and reached the top division in 1987. His highest rank was komusubi and he earned two special prizes. After retirement he became an elder in the Japan Sumo Association and as of 2016 he is a coach at Sadogatake stable under the name Kumegawa.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Oshiogawa stable (2022)</span>

Oshiogawa stable is a stable of sumo wrestlers, one of the Nishonoseki group of stables. It broke off from Oguruma stable by its founder, former sekiwake Takekaze, and officially opened in February 2022. The planned opening of the stable was first announced in April 2021, and was prompted by the imminent retirement of the head of Oguruma stable, former ōzeki Kotokaze, who turned 65 years of age in April 2022. As of January 2023 it had six wrestlers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Otowayama stable</span> Stable of sumo wrestlers

Otowayama stable is a stable of sumo wrestlers, part of the Tokitsukaze ichimon, or group of stables. It was formed by the 71st Yokozuna Kakuryū in December 2023 after he became independent from Michinoku stable. As of January 2024, the stable has 2 wrestlers.

References

Notes

  1. 1 2 Buckingham 1994, p. 193.
  2. ↑ "床屋 (とこや) – 語源由来辞典". Gogen etymology dictionary (in Japanese). Gogen-allguide.com. 25 January 2013. Retrieved 19 January 2024.
  3. 1 2 Halford & Halford 1956, p. 470.
  4. ↑ Leiter 2006, p. 402.
  5. ↑ Gunji 1985, p. 50.
  6. 1 2 "歌舞伎座写真ギャラリー - VOL.7 歌舞伎座の「床山部屋」". Kabuki-za (in Japanese). Retrieved 5 January 2024.
  7. ↑ Gunji 1985, p. 17.
  8. 1 2 "役柄の数だけ、髪の形がある". Kabuki-bito (in Japanese). Shochiku. 10 March 2009. Retrieved 5 January 2024.
  9. 1 2 3 4 5 "Another fascination of Bunraku - The world of the "tokoyama" hair designer. Akiko Takahashi (Bunraku puppet hair dressing artist)". Japan Foundation . 20 July 2010. Retrieved 8 January 2024.
  10. 1 2 Leiter 2006, pp. 319–320.
  11. 1 2 3 4 Gunning, John (14 November 2018). "Sumo 101: Tokoyama (Hairdressers)" . The Japan Times . Archived from the original on 18 September 2021. Retrieved 12 December 2023.
  12. ↑ Schwartz, Daniel (13 October 2016). "The Sumo Top Knot Is the Original Man Bun". Meridian. Archived from the original on 18 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-18.
  13. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Cuyler 1979, p. 139.
  14. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Hall 1997, p. 104.
  15. 1 2 3 Schilling 1994, p. 124.
  16. 1 2 "特集 横綱 白鵬のまげを結い続け、共に歩んだ床山". NHK (in Japanese). 11 September 2021. Retrieved 18 January 2024.
  17. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "伝統の「カミ」技で大相撲を支える、床山の世界 ～特等床山・床鶴氏インタビュー・前編～". Waraku Magazine  [ ja ] (in Japanese). Shogakukan. 30 April 2024. Retrieved 1 May 2024.
  18. ↑ Kakuma 1993, p. 57.
  19. ↑ Buckingham 1994, p. 144.
  20. 1 2 Hall 1997, p. 105.
  21. 1 2 3 4 5 "特集 - 17歳の床山「ふるさとの力士の活躍願い 修行の日々」". NHK (in Japanese). 27 November 2019. Retrieved 18 January 2024.
  22. 1 2 "二等床山昇進の床隆「頑張ってきたかいがある」床旭美「一層真面目に取り組む」" (in Japanese). Nikkan Sports. 30 September 2023. Retrieved 18 January 2024.
  23. ↑ "御嶽海と歩む出羽海部屋の床山、大銀杏に夢を結う" (in Japanese). Sports Hochi. 26 October 2019. Retrieved 18 January 2024.
  24. 1 2 Kenrick 1969, p. 50.
  25. ↑ Kensuke Suzuki (25 October 2021). "SUMO/ Hakuho worked with hairdresser who didn't like the yokozuna". The Asahi Shimbun . Archived from the original on 28 October 2021. Retrieved 19 January 2024.
  26. ↑ Adachi 1985, p. 103.
  27. ↑ Buckingham 1994, p. 45.
  28. ↑ Gunning, John (14 September 2018). "Sumo 101: The Topknot" . The Japan Times . Archived from the original on 15 September 2018. Retrieved 17 January 2024.
  29. 1 2 3 4 "力士の髷はどうやって作るのか「床山」神の技術の真髄を見た". Smart FLASH. Kobunsha. 12 November 2018. Retrieved 19 January 2024.
  30. ↑ Adachi 1985, pp. 100–101.
  31. ↑ Adachi 1985, p. 104.
  32. 1 2 3 "ちょっと昔の歌舞伎 モノからひもとく 想い出あれこれ". Kabuki-bito (in Japanese). Shochiku. 9 September 2010. p. 3. Retrieved 19 January 2024.
  33. ↑ "特集 - おすもうさんの髪を整え守る"すき油"のおはなし". NHK (in Japanese). 17 July 2020. Retrieved 19 January 2024.
  34. 1 2 3 4 5 Kenichi Hato; Kensuke Suzuki (18 November 2020). "The few good men who prop up sumo's topknot a dying breed". The Asahi Shimbun . Archived from the original on 20 November 2020. Retrieved 15 January 2024.
  35. ↑ "部屋ごと季節ごとに硬さや粘り調整の繊細さ 力士の美しいまげ支えるびん付け油「オーミすき油」" (in Japanese). Nikkan Sports. 8 March 2024. Retrieved 13 March 2024.
  36. ↑ Buckingham 1994, p. 120.
  37. ↑ Buckingham 1994, p. 194.
  38. 1 2 3 4 Great Big Story (7 November 2019). The Hairdresser to Japan's Sumo Wrestling Elite (Youtube documentary). Retrieved 19 January 2024.
  39. ↑ NHK World Japan (23 January 2023). Keeping alive traditional paper ties (News report). Retrieved 25 January 2024.
  40. ↑ "全国でわずか２人…力士のまげ支える元結職人にとって存続危機はチャンス「世界を目指せますよ」" (in Japanese). Nikkan Sports. 7 March 2024. Retrieved 7 March 2024.

Bibliography

Traditional theatre

Sumo

See also

This page is based on this Wikipedia article
Text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license; additional terms may apply.
Images, videos and audio are available under their respective licenses.