Tony Streather

Last updated

Tony Streather

OBE
Tony Streather.jpg
Streather in 1990
Born(1926-03-24)24 March 1926
Died31 October 2018(2018-10-31) (aged 92)
NationalityBritish
OccupationSoldier
Known for Mountaineer

Lieutenant-Colonel Harry Reginald Antony Streather OBE [1] (24 March 1926 31 October 2018) was a British Army officer who served in the Gloucestershire Regiment, and mountaineer who first-ascended the third-highest mountain in the world, on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition, and Tirich Mir. Streather was the first man ever to climb two peaks higher than 25,000 feet (7,600 m).

Contents

Military career

Streather was originally commissioned into the Indian Army where he saw service towards the end of the Second World War. [2] He transferred to the Gloucestershire Regiment in 1947 and was immediately awarded his 'war rank' of lieutenant. [3] He was promoted to captain in 1953 [4] and to lieutenant-colonel in 1967. [5] In the 1965 New Year Honours he was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire [6] and in the 1977 New Year Honours he was promoted to Officer of the Order of the British Empire. [1]

Mountaineering achievements

As a captain posted to the Chitral region of Pakistan, Streather was the official government representative in a Norwegian expedition that made the first ascent in 1951 of Tirich Mir (7,710 m), the highest mountain of the Hindu Kush. He was initially appointed transport officer, but became a member of the successful summiting team. [7] On his return to Britain he was invited to join the Alpine Club (he later became its president), and was selected for trials for the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition. [7] He was rejected for the latter because of a lack of technical experience, but nearly at the same time was invited to join the 1953 American Karakoram Expedition, which attempted a far more technical route up K2, the second highest mountain in the world. Though again originally in charge of logistics, he climbed as high as anyone else and was involved in the dramatic events at 7,800 m. [8]

In 1955, Streather participated in the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition, the third highest mountain in the world. With Norman Hardie, he reached the summit the day after the first summit party of Joe Brown and George Band. This made him the first man ever to climb two peaks of over 25,000 feet (7,600 m). [9] In 1957 he survived an epic near-ascent of Haramosh (7,397 m). [10] In 1959 he led a successful expedition that included an ascent of Malubiting Southeast (6,970 m). [11]

Streather led the 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest, which successfully put two British Army climbers on the summit: Bronco Lane and Brummie Stokes. [12]

Personal life

Streather married his wife Sue (nee Mary Huggan) in April 1956, and they had a daughter and three sons. [13] Streather lived in his later years in the village of Hindon, Wiltshire. [9] He died on 31 October 2018 at the age of 92. Sir Chris Bonington spoke at his memorial service in Hindon Parish Church.

Related Research Articles

Kangchenjunga Third highest mountain in the world, in Nepal and India

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, is the third highest mountain in the world. It rises with an elevation of 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas called Kangchenjunga Himal delimited in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies between Nepal and Sikkim, India, with three of the five peaks directly on the border, and the remaining two in Nepal's Taplejung District.

K2 Second-highest mountain on Earth, located on the China–Pakistan border in the disputed region of Kashmir, also claimed by India

K2, at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) above sea level, is the second highest mountain in the world, after Mount Everest at 8,848 metres (29,029 ft). It is located on the China–Pakistan border between Baltistan in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and Dafdar Township in Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China. K2 is the highest point of the Karakoram mountain range and the highest point in both Pakistan and Xinjiang.

Anatoli Boukreev

Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev was a Russian Kazakhstani mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousander peaks—those above 8,000 m (26,247 ft)—without supplemental oxygen. From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful ascents of peaks above 8000 m.

Chris Bonington

Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.

John Hunt, Baron Hunt

Brigadier Sir Henry Cecil John Hunt, Baron Hunt, was a British Army officer who is best known as the leader of the successful 1953 British Expedition to Mount Everest.

The Oxford University Mountaineering Club (OUMC) was founded in 1909 by Arnold Lunn, then a Balliol undergraduate; he did not earn a degree.

George Band English mountain climber

George Christopher Band was an English mountaineer. He was the youngest climber on the 1953 British expedition to Mount Everest on which Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first ascent of the mountain. In 1955, he and Joe Brown were the first climbers to ascend Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.

Lieutenant Colonel James Owen Merion Roberts MVO MBE MC (1916–1997) was one of the greatest Himalayan mountaineer-explorers of the twentieth century; a highly decorated British Army officer who achieved his greatest renown as "the father of trekking" in Nepal. His exploratory activities are comparable to those of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman.

Charles Evans (mountaineer)

Sir Robert Charles Evans M.D., DSc,, was a British mountaineer, surgeon, and educator. He was leader of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition and deputy leader of the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition, both of which were successful.

Charles Snead Houston American mountain climber

Charles Snead Houston was an American physician, mountaineer, high-altitude investigator, inventor, author, film-maker, and former Peace Corps administrator. He made two important and celebrated attempts to climb the mountain K2 in the Karakoram Range.

1953 American Karakoram expedition Attempt at first ascent of K2 in 1953

The 1953 American Karakoram expedition was a mountaineering expedition to K2, at 8,611 metres the second highest mountain on Earth. It was the fifth expedition to attempt K2, and the first since the Second World War. Led by Charles Houston, a mainly American team attempted the mountain's South-East Spur in a style which was unusually lightweight for the time. The team reached a high point of 7750 m, but were trapped by a storm in their high camp, where a team member, Art Gilkey, became seriously ill. A desperate retreat down the mountain followed, during which all but one of the climbers were nearly killed in a fall arrested by Pete Schoening, and Gilkey later died in an apparent avalanche. The expedition has been widely praised for the courage shown by the climbers in their attempt to save Gilkey, and for the team spirit and the bonds of friendship it fostered.

Wilfrid Noyce British mountain climber

Cuthbert Wilfrid Francis Noyce was an English mountaineer and author. He was a member of the 1953 British Expedition that made the first ascent of Mount Everest.

In the history of mountaineering, the world altitude record referred to the highest point on the Earth's surface which had been reached, regardless of whether that point was an actual summit. The world summit record referred to the highest mountain to have been successfully climbed. The terms are most commonly used in relation to the history of mountaineering in the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges, though modern evidence suggests that it was not until the 20th century that mountaineers in the Himalaya exceeded the heights which had been reached in the Andes. The altitude and summit records rose steadily during the early 20th century until 1953, when the ascent of Mount Everest made the concept obsolete.

Army Mountaineering Association

The British Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) is the governing body for climbing competitions and the representative body for mountaineering in the British Army. It is a member of the British Mountaineering Council and is the largest climbing club in the United Kingdom.

Colonel M W H (Henry) Day, MA, CEng, MICE, Royal Engineers was a British Army Officer who made the first British ascent of Annapurna I. In addition to the first British ascent of Annapurna, he was an active member of the Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) and a member of the Alpine Club (UK) contributing to the Alpine Journal. He was an active climber in the Alps and took part in the first winter ascent of the Grands Charmoz with Rob Collister. He was member of the AMA Tirich Mir (1969) expedition, summiting the peak; the AMA Himachal Pradesh (1973) expedition; the 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest. He led a Royal Engineers expedition to Trisul II (1978) and in 1981 a British Army expedition to the Da Xue Shan mountains in Sichuan province, China attempting to climb Jiaz (6540m). In 1987 Henry Day led the climbers attempting to climb the virgin east face of Xixabangma (8027m), in China, organised by the Scientific Exploration Society with a view to conducting scientific research en route. In 2008 he organised a climbing expedition to the Georgian Causasus.

Norman Hardie

Norman David Hardie was a New Zealand climber who was one of the climbers on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition who first reached the summit of the 8,586-metre (28,169 ft) mountain, the third-highest mountain in the world.

1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest

The 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest resulted in the successful summit of Mount Everest via its South Face on 16 May. This was the second time this had been achieved - less than a year previously, the 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition being the first up the same route. The expedition by the British Army and Royal Nepalese Army was under the command of Tony Streather, and the summiteers were Special Air Service soldiers Bronco Lane and Brummie Stokes.

1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition First to climb worlds third highest mountain

The 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition succeeded in climbing the 28,168-foot (8,586 m) Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. The expedition complied with a request from the Sikkim authorities that the summit should not be trodden on so the climbers deliberately stopped about five feet below the summit. George Band and Joe Brown reached the top on 25 May 1955, so becoming the first British climbers to reach an eight thousand metre summit, and they were followed the next day by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather. The expedition was led by Charles Evans who had been deputy leader on the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.

References

  1. 1 2 "No. 47102". The London Gazette (Supplement). 31 December 1976. p. 6.
  2. "No. 38117". The London Gazette (Supplement). 7 Nov 1947. p. 5238.
  3. "No. 38242". The London Gazette (Supplement). 23 March 1948. p. 2009.
  4. "No. 39805". The London Gazette (Supplement). 20 March 1953. p. 1653.
  5. "No. 44357". The London Gazette (Supplement). 4 July 1967. p. 7384.
  6. "No. 43529". The London Gazette (Supplement). 1 January 1965. p. 7.
  7. 1 2 Jim Curran, Army Dreamer....... A Portrait of Tony Streather
  8. McDonald, Bernadette (2007). Brotherhood of the Rope: The Biography of Charles Houston. The Mountaineers Books. p. 122. ISBN   9780898869422.
  9. 1 2 https://www.heraldscotland.com/opinion/17211329.obituary-lieutenant-colonel-tony-streather-mountaineer-and-army-officer/
  10. Barker, Ralph (2006). The Last Blue Mountain. Ripping Yarns.com. ISBN   1-904466-30-3.
  11. H. R. A. Streather: Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram. In: American Alpine Journal 1961, S. 413f. (AAJO)
  12. Day, M. W. H. (1979). Mehta, Soli S. (ed.). "Everest, 1976". Himalayan Journal . 35. Retrieved 23 March 2016.
  13. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2018/nov/07/tony-streather-obituary