Yves Saint Laurent (brand)

Last updated
Yves Saint Laurent SAS
Saint Laurent
Subsidiary
Industry Fashion
Founded1961;59 years ago (1961)
Founder Yves Saint Laurent
Pierre Bergé
Headquarters,
Key people
Francesca Bellettini (CEO), Anthony Vaccarello (Creative Director)
Revenue $1.21 billion [1]
Owner Kering
Website www.ysl.com

Yves Saint Laurent SAS [2] ( /ˌvˌsæ̃lɔːˈrɒ̃/ , also UK: /-lɒˈ-/ , US: /-lˈ-/ , French:  [iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃] ; YSL), also known as Saint Laurent, [3] is a French luxury fashion house founded 1961 by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. The company revived its haute couture collection in 2015 under former Creative Director Hedi Slimane. In April 2016, Anthony Vaccarello was appointed as the Creative Director. [4] [5] [6]

Contents

Founded in 1961, it has been considered one of the world's most prominent fashion houses and is known for its modern and iconic[ clarification needed ] pieces, such as its tuxedo jackets for women. Today, Saint Laurent markets a broad range of women's and men's ready-to-wear products, leather goods, shoes, and jewellery. Yves Saint Laurent Beauté also has a notable presence in the luxury beauty and fragrance market, [7] although this is owned by L'Oréal who hold exclusive licenses for the name.

History

Evening dress by Tom Ford for YSL Rive Gauche, 2004 Evening dress in Chinese dragon print satin by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Dress of the Year, 2004.jpg
Evening dress by Tom Ford for YSL Rive Gauche, 2004

The eponymous brand was founded in 1961 by designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé, and the current logos were designed in 1963 by A. M. Cassandre. [8] During the 1960s and 1970s, the firm popularized fashion trends such as the beatnik look, safari jackets for men and women, tight pants and tall, thigh-high boots, including the creation of arguably the most famous classic tuxedo suit for women in 1966, Le Smoking suit. Some of his most memorable collections include the Pop Art, Ballet Russes, Picasso, and Chinese ones. He also started mainstreaming the idea of wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s. He was the first, in 1966, to popularize ready-to-wear in an attempt to democratize fashion, with Rive Gauche and a boutique of the same name. [9] Among Saint Laurent's muses were Loulou de La Falaise, the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish fashion model; Betty Catroux, the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat and wife of a French decorator; Talitha Pol-Getty, a model and actress whose husband was a Getty heir; and Catherine Deneuve, the French actress.

The brand continued to expand in the 1980s and early 1990s with fragrances for both men and women, having launched its cosmetic line in 1978. However, by 1992, the company's profits were declining and the company's share price had fallen. [10]

In 1993, the Saint Laurent fashion house was sold to the pharmaceuticals company Sanofi. In the 1998–1999 seasons, Alber Elbaz, formerly of Lanvin, designed three ready-to-wear collections.

Pierre Bergé appointed Hedi Slimane as collections and art director in 1997, and they relaunched YSL Rive Gauche Homme. Slimane decided to leave the house two years later, and he became head of couture menswear at Dior Homme.

In 1999, Gucci (owned by PPR) bought the YSL brand and asked Tom Ford to design the ready-to-wear collection, while Saint Laurent would design the haute couture collection.

In 2002, dogged by years of poor health, drug abuse, depression, alcoholism, and criticisms of YSL designs, Saint Laurent closed the couture house of YSL. Reflecting on his career and impact on the fashion industry, Saint Laurent was heavily quoted around the world for stating, "Chanel freed women, and I empowered them." [10] Saint Laurent also stated, "I created the contemporary woman's wardrobe." [10]

YSL boutique, Beverly Hills, California, 2006 Yves Saint Laurent Beverly Hills.jpg
YSL boutique, Beverly Hills, California, 2006

The prêt-à-porter line was produced under the direction of Stefano Pilati, after Tom Ford left in 2004. His style was decidedly more French than the overtly sexy image that Tom Ford propagated. [11]

In 2009, following the death of Yves Saint Laurent in 2008 and a tumultuous first few years for Stefano Pilati, [10] a few YSL stores closed in key U.S. markets of San Francisco and New York City. The New York location, on Madison Avenue, had been the brand's first in the United States, having opened in 1969. In January 2010, the Chicago boutique on Oak Street closed as well. [12]

In 2012, Kering (previously known as PPR) announced that Hedi Slimane replaced Stefano Pilati as the creative director. Slimane had previously worked with Dior Homme until 2007. In 2015, Slimane announced that he would be reviving Yves Saint Laurent's couture line. [13] In 2016, Slimane left Saint Laurent. [14] His replacement is Anthony Vaccarello. [15]

Despite the fact that Slimane had previously worked with the house, there was much controversy following his appointment, particularly after it was announced that the ready-to-wear line would be rebranded as Saint Laurent. [16] However, the Yves Saint Laurent name and YSL logo have been retained for accessories such as handbags and shoes, and cosmetics (which are licensed to L'Oréal). It was also announced that the design studio would move to Los Angeles, California, Slimane's adopted home, while the couture atelier would remain in France. [10]

Slimane stated that he drew inspiration from when the ready-to-wear line was first launched as Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. [17] [ deprecated source ] However, the decision made headlines around the world. It became more controversial after it was reported that famed Parisian boutique Colette was selling shirts with the line "Ain't Laurent without Yves." Saint Laurent requested the store to stop selling the shirts, which it did in its online store. In October 2013, it was reported that Colette received a letter accusing it of selling counterfeit products that seriously damaged the brand. Following the accusation, it was announced that Saint Laurent had canceled Colette's order for its Spring 2014 Collection, despite the fact that the boutique had been stocking the brand since 1998. [18]

Charlotte Gainsbourg appeared in the brand's FW17 ad campaign Charlotte Gainsbourg Cannes 2017.jpg
Charlotte Gainsbourg appeared in the brand's FW17 ad campaign

In 2017, creative director Anthony Vaccarello chose Charlotte Gainsbourg, the daughter of Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, as the face of the FW17 campaign. [19]

In 2019, Keanu Reeves chosen as global ambassador and serve as the new face of their fall-winter 2019 menswear collection. [20]

In 2020, Rosé from BLACKPINK is chosen as the global ambassador for Saint Laurent, being their first global ambassador in 59 years. [21]

Boutiques

Yves Saint Laurent men's wear in Florence, Italy, 2011 YSL Menswear shop in Florence.jpg
Yves Saint Laurent men's wear in Florence, Italy, 2011

Designed by Slimane, the Paris flagship boutique opened in May 2013. The previous deep red and gold color scheme was replaced by a monochrome interior, with varying materials, including marble and nickel-plated bars. [22] This concept was used in the renovated Beverly Hills boutique, and its new London boutique on Sloane Street, as well as new stores in the United States.

In 2013, a men's store—a first for the brand—opened in San Francisco, a full-line store opened in New York City, in its SoHo neighborhood, and a full-line store opened in Chicago at the Waldorf Astoria on Rush Street, where private showings had been given since the Chicago store closed in 2010.

Under Slimane Saint Laurent plans to continue to expand its presence in the United States, opening new stores in the resort locations of Bal Harbour, Florida and Las Vegas, Nevada, as well as a planned store for Washington, D.C..

International locations includes a strong presence in Europe, with boutiques ranging in location from Barcelona, Munich, Berlin, Warsaw, and Kiev, to Bologna, Rome, Moscow, Monte Carlo and Cannes. Locations in the Middle East and Africa include Beirut, Casablanca, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Doha, Kuwait City, and Jeddah. In Asia Saint Laurent boutiques can be found in Jakarta, Bangkok, Manila, Seoul, Singapore, Macau, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. The brand has a heavy presence in Japan with boutiques in Kyoto, Tokyo, and Osaka as well as outlet locations across the country. In China standalone boutiques are located in Wuhan, Shanghai, Beijing and Chongqing.

Related Research Articles

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, professionally known as Yves Saint-Laurent, was a French fashion designer who, in 1961, founded his eponymous fashion label. He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers in the twentieth century. In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, "The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its 1960s ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable." He was able to adapt his style to accommodate the changes in fashion during that period. He approached fashion in a different perspective by wanting women to look comfortable yet elegant at the same time. He is also credited with having introduced the tuxedo suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references, and non-white models.

Ready-to-wear mass-produced clothing in standard sizes

Ready-to-wear or prêt-à-porter is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing tailored to a particular person's frame. Off-the-peg is sometimes used for items other than clothing such as handbags.

Dior European fashion company

Christian Dior SE, commonly known as Dior, is a French luxury goods company controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH, the world's largest luxury group. Dior itself holds 42.36% shares of and 59.01% voting rights within LVMH. Sidney Toledano has been the CEO since 1997.

Pierre Bergé French businessman

Pierre Bergé was a French industrialist and patron. He co-founded the fashion label Yves Saint Laurent, and was a longtime business partner of the eponymous designer.

Nino Cerruti is an Italian businessman and stylist. He founded his own haute couture house, Cerruti, in 1967 in Paris. Today, he manages the Italian family business Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti, which was founded in 1881 by his grandfather.

Hedi Slimane French fashion designer

Hedi Slimane is a French photographer and fashion designer. From 2000 to 2007, he held the position of creative director for Dior Homme. From 2012 to 2016, he was the creative director for Yves Saint Laurent. Since February 1, 2018, Slimane has been the creative, artistic and image director of Celine.

Anja Rubik Polish model

Anja Rubik is a Polish supermodel, activist, philanthropist, and businesswoman. She lives and works in New York.

Stefano Pilati is an Italian fashion designer. In 2017 he founded Random Identities, a ready-to-wear brand.

Lanvin (company) French multinational high fashion house

Lanvin is a French multinational high fashion house, which was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889. It is the third oldest French fashion house still in operation. In 1990, the house was taken over by the Orcofi Group, then sold to l’Oréal in 1996. In 2001, Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese media magnate, took Lanvin private again. On 14 March 2016, Bouchra Jarrar was appointed as Creative Director for Women’s Collection, replacing Alber Elbaz, who had transformed the company over the previous fourteen years. Ms. Bouchra's departure was announced on 6 July 2017. She was succeeded as artistic director by Olivier Lapidus, who left the company without a named successor on 22 March 2018. Men’s Collections have been headed by Lucas Ossendrijver since 2005.

CELINE is a French ready-to-wear and leather luxury goods brand that has been owned by LVMH group since 1996. It was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana. Since November 2015, the headquarters are located at 16 rue Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris at the Hôtel Colbert de Torcy, which has French Historic Monument classification. Séverine Merle is the Chief Executive Officer since April 2017.

Ralph & Russo British fashion house

Ralph & Russo is a European, privately held company owned and founded by Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo. Ralph & Russo is a high fashion house that specializes in haute couture and ready-to-wear clothes, luxury goods, and fashion accessories.

Versus (Versace) is the diffusion line of Italian luxury fashion house Versace. It began in 1989 as the first diffusion lines by the house, a gift by the founder Gianni Versace to his sister, Donatella Versace. After closing in 2005, Donatella resurrected it in 2009 with a capsule collection of accessories designed by emerging British designer Christopher Kane. The brand now comprises watches, leather accessories and ready-to-wear.

Kris Van Assche is a Belgian fashion designer. He is the creative director of Berluti, a luxury leather brand of LVMH.

Paul Deneve is a business leader with a background in fashion and technology. On September 16, 2013, he became a vice president at Apple, working on unnamed "special projects" and reporting to Apple CEO Tim Cook. Before joining Apple, he was CEO of the fashion house Yves Saint Laurent, which is part of PPR. Between 1997 and 2013 he managed a number of companies in the luxury sector.

Alexis Mabille French fashion designer

Alexis Mabille is a French fashion designer who is the creative director of his namesake label, Alexis Mabille.

Laure Hériard Dubreuil French businessperson

Laure Heriard Dubreuil is a French entrepreneur and the Founder and Creative Director of The Webster. The Webster is a luxury multi-brand retailer operating five physical boutiques in the U.S. and an online store www.thewebster.us Prior to founding The Webster, Heriard Dubreuil worked in merchandising for both Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent.

The Webster

The Webster is a luxury multi-brand fashion house operating seven physical boutiques in the U.S. and an online store. The multi-brand boutique sells designer brands and many others. The Webster has collaborated with worldwide major retailers such as Le Bon Marche, Target, Ritz Paris, and most recently, Lane Crawford.

Anthony Vaccarello is a Belgian fashion designer and currently creative director at Saint Laurent. Prior to this he held the position of creative director at Versus Versace, as well as designing his own eponymous line. In April 2016, Saint Laurent announced the appointment of Anthony Vaccarello as Creative Director. With a thorough understanding of the brand’s spirit, he has since his arrival, strongly empowered a highly desirable vision.

Valérie Hermann is a French businesswoman. She is the managing director of the fashion and luxury division of EPI, a private investment fund based in Paris.

Nastassia Sahara Elizabeth Lindes is an English-American fashion model and musician. She is the face of YSL Beauty.

References

  1. "Groupe Yves Saint Laurent – Company Profile, Information, Business Description, History, Background Information on Groupe Yves Saint Laurent". referenceforbusiness.com. Retrieved 2014-03-21.
  2. "Yves Saint Laurent SAS: Private Company Information". www.bloomberg.com. Retrieved 2018-01-01.
  3. "Saint Laurent". Kering. Retrieved 2018-01-01.
  4. Anthony Vaccarello Stuck to His Sexy DNA at Saint Laurent, Véronique Hyland, New York February 28, 2017
  5. Vanessa Friedman, The Apocalypse Comes to Saint Laurent The New York Times March 1, 2017
  6. Mark Holgate, "My Idea of YSL Lies in the Attitude"—Anthony Vaccarello Talks Saint Laurent Vogue September 27, 2016
  7. The Moisturizer (26 November 2018). "Review: Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme After Shave" . Retrieved 28 November 2018.
  8. Henri Mouron (1986). Cassandre : Posters, Typography, Stage Designs. London: Thames and Hudson. pp. 147–148. ISBN   0-500-23450-7.
  9. Alicia Drake. The Beautiful Fall: Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris. Little, Brown and Company, 2006. p.49.
  10. 1 2 3 4 5 "Yves Saint Laurent – Voguepedia". vogue.com. Retrieved 2014-03-21.
  11. "Fashion Shows: Fashion Week, Runway, Designer Collections – Vogue". Style.com. 2016-06-17. Retrieved 2016-06-21.
  12. "Yves Saint Laurent Hands Over Their Oak Street Lease – Intelligence – Racked Chicago". chicago.racked.com. Retrieved 2014-03-21.
  13. Fraser, Kristopher (July 28, 2015). "Saint Laurent announces revival of couture". FashionUnited . Retrieved July 30, 2015.
  14. Miles Socha. "Saint Laurent Confirms Hedi Slimane Exit – WWD". Wwd.com. Retrieved 2016-06-21.
  15. "How Will Anthony Vaccarello Change YSL?". Highsnobiety.com. Retrieved 2016-06-21.
  16. "Name Change Ahead at Yves Saint Laurent – Designer Luxury – Markets – WWD.com". wwd.com. Retrieved 2014-03-21.
  17. "Yves Saint Laurent set for name change: New YSL creative head Hedi Slimane drops Yves". dailymail.co.uk. Retrieved 2014-03-21.
  18. "Saint Laurent withdraw from Colette over parody T-shirt – Telegraph". fashion.telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 2014-03-21.
  19. hero-magazine.com Charlotte Gainsbourg is the new face of Saint Laurent, ALEX JAMES TAYLOR, 18 MAY 2017
  20. https://ourfashiontrends.com/keanu-reeves-becomes-new-face-of-yves-saint-laurent/
  21. https://www.wmagazine.com/story/blackpink-rose-new-global-face-of-saint-laurent/
  22. "Saint Laurent opens new flagship store in Paris". dezeen.com. Retrieved 2014-03-21.