Joe's Valley

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Whitney Foster bouldering at Joe's Valley Wfboulderingjoes.jpg
Whitney Foster bouldering at Joe's Valley

Joe's Valley is a large concentration of sandstone boulders east of the Joe's Valley Reservoir near Orangeville, Utah. Joe's is a popular destination for bouldering, divided into three main areas: the Left Fork, the Right Fork, and New Joe's. [1] Climbers have been coming to Joe's Valley since the mid-1990's, [2] and an estimated 15,000 climbers visit Joe's each year. [2]

Contents

The climbing is found in three main areas: Left Fork, [3] Right Fork, [4] and New Joe's. [5] Each area has many world class climbs, some of which are listed in the Famous Problems section below.

Joe's Valley Bouldering Fest takes place every fall, drawing competitive climbers from all over the world. [6]

Famous problems

Sources

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bouldering</span> Form of rock climbing

Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems are usually less than six metres (20 ft) tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another. Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, bouldering competitions take place in both indoor and outdoor settings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Traditional climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Traditional climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber places the protection equipment while ascending the route; when the lead climber has completed the route, the second climber then removes the protection equipment as they climb the route. Traditional climbing differs from sport climbing where the protection equipment is pre-drilled into the rock in the form of bolts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glossary of climbing terms</span> For rock climbing and mountaineering

Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing, mountaineering, and to ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Sport climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanent bolts for their protection while ascending a route. Sport climbing differs from the riskier traditional climbing where the lead climber has to insert temporary protection equipment while ascending.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing guidebook</span> Database of climbing routes

Climbing guidebooks are used by mountaineers, alpinists, ice climbers, and rock climbers to locate, grade, and navigate climbing routes on mountains, climbing crags, or bouldering areas. Modern route guidebooks include detailed information on each climbing route, including topo diagrams, route beta, protection requirements, and the ethics and style that are in place for a given climbing area.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Little Cottonwood Canyon</span> Canyon in Northern Utah

Little Cottonwood Canyon lies within the Wasatch-Cache National Forest along the eastern side of the Salt Lake Valley, roughly 15 miles from Salt Lake City, Utah. The canyon is part of Granite, a CDP and "Community Council" designated by Salt Lake County. The canyon is a glacial trough, carved by an alpine glacier during the last ice age, 15,000 to 25,000 years ago. A number of rare and endemic plant species are found in the canyon's Albion Basin. Introduced Mountain goats inhabit the surrounding mountains.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Royal Robbins</span> American rock climber (1935–2017)

Royal Robbins was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock, he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent of boltless, pitonless clean climbing, he, along with Yvon Chouinard, was instrumental in changing the climbing culture of the late 1960s and early 1970s by encouraging the use and preservation of the natural features of the rock. He went on to become a well-known kayaker.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Deep-water soloing</span> Free solo rock-climbing over water

Deep-water soloing (DWS), also known as psicobloc, is a form of free solo climbing where any fall should result in the climber landing safely into deep water below the route. DWS is therefore considered safer than normal free solo climbing, however, DWS brings several unique additional risks including trauma from uncontrolled high-speed water entry, injury from hitting hazards above and below the water while falling, and drowning in rough or tidal seas, and is thus considered riskier than normal bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Bachar</span> American rock climber (1957–2009)

John Bachar was an American rock climber. Noted for his skill at free soloing, he ultimately died during a free solo climb. A fitness fanatic, he was the creator of the climbing training device known as the Bachar ladder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines—bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing—can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

<i>Hard Grit</i> 1998 British film

Hard Grit is a 1998 British rock climbing film directed by Richard Heap and produced by Slackjaw Film, featuring traditional climbing, free soloing, and bouldering on gritstone routes in the Peak District in Northern England. It is considered an important film in the genre and regarded as a historic and iconic film. The film starts with a dramatic fall by French climber Jean–Minh Trinh-Thieu on Gaia at Black Rocks. Hard Grit won ten international film festival awards.

Mollie's Nipple or Molly's Nipple is the name given to as many as seven peaks, at least one butte, at least one well, and some other geological features in Utah. Some sources claim there are eleven geological features in Utah that bear this name. At least some of those names are attributed to John Kitchen – a pioneer of an early exploration of Utah, who named them to commemorate a nipple of his wife Molly.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Katie Brown (climber)</span> American rock climber

Katie Brown is an American female rock climber and early competition climber, who also made notable ascents in sport climbing, big wall climbing and bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alex Puccio</span> American rock climber

Alex Puccio is a professional climber specializing in bouldering. She competes in climbing competitions and split her time between climbing outdoor and indoor. She finished third overall in the 2011 and 2013 World Cup bouldering competition, second overall in the 2014 Climbing World Championship bouldering competition, and has won the American Bouldering Series eleven times.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Midnight Lightning (climb)</span> Bouldering route in Yosemite, US

Midnight Lightning is a 7.62-metre (25.0 ft) high granite bouldering route on the Columbia Boulder in Camp 4 of Yosemite National Park. When first solved in May 1978 by American rock climber Ron Kauk, it was graded at V8 (7B/7B+), which was the world's second-ever boulder route at that grade, and the first in North America. Even today, the route is still considered a "hard" V8 grade. Midnight Lightning is the most notable bouldering route in climbing along with Dreamtime, and its ascent is considered an important moment in the history and the development of bouldering as a sport in its own right.

Boone Speed is an American photographer and figure within the sport of rock climbing. The only son of Western sculptor Ulysess Grant Speed, Boone was raised outside of Provo, Utah, and studied Graphic Design at Brigham Young University.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Emily Harrington</span> American rock climber and mountaineer

Emily Harrington is an American professional rock climber and mountaineer. She is a five-time US National Champion in sport lead climbing, runner-up in the 2005 IFSC Climbing World Championships, and has made the first female free ascents of several 5.14 (8c/+) routes.

Allison Vest is a Canadian rock climber known for competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. She won the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020. She also came first in Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019, and placed 10th in the World Beach Games in Doha, Qatar in 2019. In August 2019, Vest became the first female Canadian climber to a conquer a V13 (8B) graded boulder, with The Terminator, in Squamish, British Columbia. This feat was documented in the 2020 film The Terminator, which premiered at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival on March 1, 2020.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sean Bailey (climber)</span> American rock climber (born 1996)

Sean Bailey is an American professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He has represented the United States in the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead climbing, and has two podium finishes in bouldering at individual legs of the World Cup, including a win at the Salt Lake City leg of the 2021 World Cup.1 and three in lead climbing, including two gold medals, at the Villars leg, and Chamonix leg, in July 2021.

References

  1. "Planning a Road Trip to the Bouldering Paradise of Joe's Valley". RootsRated. 2016-03-16. Retrieved 2020-05-26.
  2. 1 2 "How Bouldering Changed Joe's Valley". Climbing. 2017-05-12. Retrieved 2021-04-19.
  3. "Left Fork". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  4. "Right Fork". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  5. "New Joe's". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  6. "Joe's Valley Bouldering : Utah's Gift to the Climbing World". Utah.com. Retrieved 2020-05-26.
  7. "Black Lung". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  8. "Smoking Joe". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  9. "Planet of the Apes". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  10. "Wills A Fire". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  11. "Scary Monsters". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  12. "Pocket Rocket". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  13. "Kill By Numbers". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  14. "Pimpin Jeans". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.
  15. "The Angler". Kaya. Retrieved 31 August 2023.

39°16′35″N111°10′26″W / 39.27639°N 111.17389°W / 39.27639; -111.17389