Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined

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Women's combined
at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad
Sport climbing pictogram.svg
Olympic sport climbing
VenueAomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo
Dates4 August 2021 (qualification)
6 August 2021 (final)
Competitors20 from 15 nations
Medalists
Gold medal icon.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia
Silver medal icon.svg Miho Nonaka Flag of Japan.svg  Japan
Bronze medal icon.svg Akiyo Noguchi Flag of Japan.svg  Japan

The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. [1] 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

The medals for the competition were presented by Ivo Ferriani, IOC Executive Member, Italy, Olympian; and the medalists' bouquets were presented by Marco Maria Scolaris, IFSC President; Italy.

Qualification

Competition format

In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals. [2]

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Finals. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting

Speed climbling wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States. [3] [4]

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan. [5]

Records

Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

Speed records
World recordFlag of Russia.svg  Iuliia Kaplina  (RUS)6.964 Moscow, Russia 21 November 2020
Olympic recordNot established– ––

The following records were established during the competition:

DateRoundClimberNationTimeRecord
August 4Speed Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 6.97 [6] OR
August 6Speed Final Aleksandra Mirosław Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 6.84 [7] WR

Schedule

All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date [8] TimeRound
Wednesday, 4 August 202117:00Speed Qualification
18:00Bouldering Qualification
21:10Lead Qualification
Friday, 6 August 202117:30Speed Final
18:30Bouldering Final
21:10Lead Final

Results

Qualification

The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the finals.

RankClimberNationSpeed [9] Bouldering [10] Lead [11] Total [12] Notes
ABCP1234ResultsCPHRTFTCP
1 Janja Garnbret Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia 9.4410.3214T1z1T1z1T1z1T1z14T4z 4 4130456.00Q
2 Seo Chae-hyun Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea 10.0111.7417T3z1T2z2z1z12T4z 5 5540+185.00Q
3 Miho Nonaka Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 7.557.744T2z1z1z1–1T3z 2 3830+396.00Q
4 Akiyo Noguchi Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 8.278.239T2z1z1T2z1T1z13T4z 5 4327+6162.00Q
5 Brooke Raboutou Flag of the United States.svg  United States 8.678.8112T2z1T1z1z1T1z13T4z 4 4226+3:408192.00Q
6 Jessica Pilz Flag of Austria.svg  Austria 8.518.6311T3z1z3z1–1T3z 3 5933+2198.00Q
7 Aleksandra Mirosław Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 6.97 OR 7.011––––0T0z 0 0201219380.00Q
8 Anouck Jaubert Flag of France.svg  France 7.127.292T4z1–––1T1z 4 11316+2:1415390.00Q
9 Viktoria Meshkova Olympic flag.svg  ROC 9.549.7315T6z1T2z2z1z12T4z 8 5629+5450.00
10 Shauna Coxsey Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  Great Britain 9.6510.0716T2z1T1z1z1z12T4z 3 4421+2:2313832.00
11 Kyra Condie Flag of the United States.svg  United States 8.128.087T4z1–z1z31T3z 4 51122+11847.00
12 Song Yiling Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China 8.747.463z5–––0T1z 0 51913+181026.00
13 Julia Chanourdie Flag of France.svg  France 8.438.178z1z7z1–0T3z 0 91525+91080.00
14 Alannah Yip Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada 8.177.996z1–z1–0T2z 0 21621+2:14121152.00
15 Laura Rogora Flag of Italy.svg  Italy 10.50Fall19z1z2T1z1z11T4z 1 5725101330.00
16 Petra Klingler Flag of Switzerland.svg  Switzerland 8.428.6710T3z1z3z4–1T3z 3 81016+1:49141400.00
17 Iuliia Kaplina Olympic flag.svg  ROC 7.65Fall5z2–––0T1z 0 21814+171530.00
18 Mia Krampl Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia 10.4410.4318z1z1z1z20T4z 0 51426+3:1671764.00
19 Oceana Mackenzie Flag of Australia.svg  Australia 8.839.3813T3z1–z1–1T2z 3 21215+162496.00
20 Erin Sterkenburg Flag of South Africa.svg  South Africa Fall11.1020z1–––0T1z 0 1177+206800.00

Final

RankClimberNationSpeed [13] Bouldering [14] Lead [15] Total [16]
QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinalsCP123ResultsCPHRCP
RTRTRT
Gold medal icon.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia 38.4968.67107.815T4z1T1z1z12T3z 5 3137+15
Silver medal icon.svg Miho Nonaka Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 48.1987.76117.993–z4z10T2z 0 5321545
Bronze medal icon.svg Akiyo Noguchi Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 28.557Fall118.424z5z2–0T2z 0 7429+464
4 Aleksandra Mirosław Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 17.4977.03126.84 WR 1–––0T0z 0 089+864
5 Brooke Raboutou Flag of the United States.svg  United States 4Fall68.7799.067z5z3z20T3z 0 10220+684
6 Anouck Jaubert Flag of France.svg  France 37.4087.51128.842z2––0T1z 0 2613+784
7 Jessica Pilz Flag of Austria.svg  Austria 28.8958.77108.436z7z3–0T2z 0 10534+390
8 Seo Chae-hyun Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea 110.64512.8599.858–––0T0z 0 0735+2112

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References

  1. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results". Olympics. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  2. ↑ "Sport Climbing". Olympics. Archived from the original on 2 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  3. ↑ "Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton". Climbing. 20 February 2020. Archived from the original on 1 August 2021. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  4. ↑ "Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 31 July 2021.
  5. ↑ "Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  6. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Records | Tokyo 2020". olympics.com. Archived from the original on 26 September 2021. Retrieved 7 October 2021.
  7. ↑ "Polish climber Aleksandra Miroslaw breaks speed climbing world record in Olympic final | NBC Olympics". www.nbcolympics.com. Archived from the original on 7 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
  8. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results | Tokyo 2020". Olympics.com/tokyo-2020/. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  9. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  10. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Qualualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  11. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  12. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  13. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
  14. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
  15. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
  16. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Final Results Summary" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
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