Hedebo embroidery

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Hedebo embroidery
Dragvaerk.jpg
Hedebo embroidery, dragværk or drawn thread work (1750–1840)
Type Embroidery
Production method Needle lace
Production process Handicraft
Place of origin Zealand, Denmark
Introduced1760s
A paper pamphlet book by the publishers of Modern Priscilla Magazine with needle lace and cutwork instructions Priscilla Hedebo and Cutwork Book 1925.jpg
A paper pamphlet book by the publishers of Modern Priscilla Magazine with needle lace and cutwork instructions

The term Hedebo embroidery covers several forms of white embroidery which originated in the Hedebo (heathland) region of Zealand, Denmark, in the 1760s. The varied techniques which evolved over the next hundred years in the farming community were subsequently developed by the middle classes until around 1820. They were applied to articles of clothing such as collars and cuffs but were also used to decorate bed linen. [1] [2]

Contents

Introduction

Related to reticella, hedebo is a form of needle lace which was originally produced by farming women in the area of Zealand known as Hedebo or Hedeboegnen, the flat heathland bordered by Copenhagen, Roskilde and Køge. [1] Up to the 1870s, the embroidered articles decorated the peasants' living rooms or featured on their festive clothing. Towels and pillows as well as women's shifts and men's shirts were typically decorated in the hedebo style. Many of the items in a bride's trousseau or bridal chest were painstakingly prepared for a future wedding. [3]

In the late 19th century, Copenhagen families began to show interest in hedebo, increasingly acquiring items for their own homes. Many were crafted by the wet nurses whom they employed. Designs were often adapted to match the clothing styles of the middle classes. By the 20th century, it became fashionable for educated Copenhagen women also to sew hebedo embroidery themselves. [4]

When hedebo was replaced in the late 19th century by more modern styles, peasants sold their embroidery in Copenhagen for substantial sums. [3] Many items were nevertheless passed down as families appreciated the value of the embroidery. Recognized by the Danish Folk Museum as a national treasure in the 1870s, many Zealand museums now have substantial collections of hedebo items. [5]

Stitching styles

Hedebo styles have developed over the years, first by the farming women and later by embroidery experts living in the more wealthy areas of Copenhagen. The earlier styles (1700–1870), known as Hedebosyning (Hedebo sewing), consisted of white linen work for creating articles for private use. [2] They can be classified under seven distinct styles. [6]

Counted thread work

Known in Danish as tællesyning, with its geometric patterns, it is a style common throughout Denmark and the rest of Europe. Nevertheless, the number of finely stitched hedebo articles is particularly high. Designs can be based on triangles, trees, animals and human figures. The style is used for shirts, bed linen and handkerchiefs. [7]

Drawn thread work

Drawn thread work or dragværk, another whitework technique, dates from the second half of the 18th century. Employing the warp and weft approach, white thread is drawn across the width of the white linen before figures such as animals are sewn in. The embroidery follows the length and intersections of the fabric. [8] The remaining threads can be decorated in different designs with buttonhole stitches. [9]

Square cutwork

Square cutwork or rudesyning was used until the end of the 19th century for monograms and for decorating towels. From the ground material, squares are cut out, leaving some threads between the squares. A darning stitch can then be used to fill them in, creating patterns of animals, human figures, plants and trees. [10]

Hvidsøm

The hvidsøm whitework technique combines drawn thread and cutwork. A type of embroidered lace, it consists of two rows of chain stitches around the main motif. It was used for both clothing and household items such as pillow cases and towels. It was also used by middle class women for tea cosies and table cloths until the mid-20th century. Motifs include flowers, hearts, leaves and animals. [11]

Baldyring

Combining the drawn thread and counted thread techniques, baldyring is based on reticella needlework. It was used for pillow cases, men's shirts, women's shifts as well as for towels and sheets. Its use extended to the whole of Denmark by the end of the 19th century. It also became fashionable among urban women until about 1920. [12]

Hedebo needle lace

Udklipshedebo or Hedebo needle lace, is often considered a freestyle combination of cut work and embroidered lace techniques. It also incorporated button stitch and scallop stitch. Patterns are filled with curves, points and wheels or rings, often surrounded by leaves. It was used for costumes, small cloths and collars. It could be found in homes throughout Denmark for serviettes, tea cosies and decorated collars for women. [13]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cross-stitch</span> Form of counted-thread embroidery.

Cross-stitch is a form of sewing and a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches in a tiled, raster-like pattern are used to form a picture. The stitcher counts the threads on a piece of evenweave fabric in each direction so that the stitches are of uniform size and appearance. This form of cross-stitch is also called counted cross-stitch in order to distinguish it from other forms of cross-stitch. Sometimes cross-stitch is done on designs printed on the fabric ; the stitcher simply stitches over the printed pattern. Cross-stitch is often executed on easily countable fabric called aida cloth whose weave creates a plainly visible grid of squares with holes for the needle at each corner.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidery</span> Art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn

Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on caps, hats, coats, overlays, blankets, dress shirts, denim, dresses, stockings, scarfs, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available in a wide variety of thread or yarn colour. It is often used to personalize gifts or clothing items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sampler (needlework)</span> Textile artwork used to display skills and techniques

A needlework sampler is a piece of embroidery or cross-stitching produced as a 'specimen of achievement', demonstration or a test of skill in needlework. It often includes the alphabet, figures, motifs, decorative borders and sometimes the name of the person who embroidered it and the date. The word sampler is derived from the Latin exemplum, which means 'example'.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Drawn thread work</span> Creative textile work

Drawn thread work is one of the earliest forms of open work embroidery, and has been worked throughout Europe. Originally it was often used for ecclesiastical items and to ornament shrouds. It is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric. The remaining threads are grouped or bundled together into a variety of patterns. The more elaborate styles of drawn thread work use a variety of other stitches and techniques, but the drawn thread parts are their most distinctive element. It is also grouped with whitework embroidery because it was traditionally done in white thread on white fabric and is often combined with other whitework techniques.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lace</span> Openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand

Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted or crocheted lace. Other laces such as these are considered as a category of their specific craft. Knitted lace, therefore, is an example of knitting. This article considers both needle lace and bobbin lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crewel embroidery</span> Type of embroidery using wool

Crewel embroidery, or crewelwork, is a type of surface embroidery using wool. A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bobbin lace</span> Handmade lace

Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Needle lace</span> Lace made with a needle and thread

Needle lace is a type of lace created using a needle and thread to create hundreds of small stitches to form the lace itself.

Filet lace is the general word used for all the different techniques of embroidery on knotted net. It is a hand made needlework created by weaving or embroidery using a long blunt needle and a thread on a ground of knotted net lace or filet work made of square or diagonal meshes of the same sizes or of different sizes. Lacis uses the same technique but is made on a ground of leno or small canvas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reticella</span>

Reticella is a needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chikan (embroidery)</span> Traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India

Chikankari is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. Translated, the word means embroidery, and it is one of Lucknow's best known textile decoration styles. The main market in Lucknow for Chikankari based products is Chowk. Production is mainly based in Lucknow and in the adjoining districts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Whitework embroidery</span> Creative works made with a needle using white thread on a white ground

Whitework embroidery is any embroidery technique in which the stitching is the same color as the foundation fabric. Styles of whitework embroidery include most drawn thread work, broderie anglaise, Hardanger embroidery, Hedebo embroidery, Mountmellick embroidery, reticella and Schwalm. Whitework embroidery is one of the techniques employed in heirloom sewing for blouses, christening gowns, baby bonnets, and other small articles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cutwork</span> Needlework technique

Cutwork or cut work, also known as punto tagliato in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a textile, typically cotton or linen, are cut away and the resulting "hole" is reinforced and filled with embroidery or needle lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Buttonhole stitch</span> Stitch to reinforce edges or for decoration

Buttonhole stitch and the related blanket stitch are hand-sewing stitches used in tailoring, embroidery, and needle lace-making.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mountmellick embroidery</span> Floral whitework embroidery originating in Ireland

Mountmellick embroidery or Mountmellick work is a floral whitework embroidery originating in the town of Mountmellick in County Laois, Ireland, in the early nineteenth century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ukrainian embroidery</span>

Ukrainian embroidery occupies an important place among the various branches of Ukrainian decorative arts. Embroidery has a rich history in Ukraine, and has long appeared in Ukrainian folk dress as well as played a part in traditional Ukrainian weddings and other celebrations. Appearing all across the country, Ukrainian embroidery varies depending on the region of origin. From Poltava, Kyiv, and Chernihiv in the east, to Volyn and Polissia in the northwest, to Bukovina, and the Hutsul area in the southwest, the designs have a long history which defines its ornamental motifs and compositions, as well as its favorite choice of colors and types of stitches.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">English embroidery</span> Embroidery worked in England or by English people abroad

English embroidery includes embroidery worked in England or by English people abroad from Anglo-Saxon times to the present day. The oldest surviving English embroideries include items from the early 10th century preserved in Durham Cathedral and the 11th century Bayeux Tapestry, if it was worked in England. The professional workshops of Medieval England created rich embroidery in metal thread and silk for ecclesiastical and secular uses. This style was called Opus Anglicanum or "English work", and was famous throughout Europe.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Greek lace</span> Early form of lace

Greek lace is considered one of the earliest forms of all lace. Some types of Greek lace include reticella, Roman lace, cutwork, Venetian guipure, and Greek point lace

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Redwork</span>

Redwork is a form of American embroidery, also called art needlework, that developed in the 19th century and was particularly popular between 1855 and 1925. It traditionally uses red thread, chosen because red dyes were the first commercially available colorfast dyes, in the form of Turkey red embroidery floss. Redwork designs are composed of simple stitches and were mainly used to decorate household objects in the 19th and 20th centuries, especially quilts. Patterns for individual quilt blocks were sold for a penny in the United States, making them popular and affordable. In the 21st century, redwork has seen a resurgence among crafters. The main stitch used in redwork is backstitch or outline stitching, formerly known as Kensington stitch. Redwork was a common introductory form of embroidery taught to children in the 19th and 20th century. Children would make quilts decorated with redwork motifs, with motifs of various sizes prior to approximately 1910 and uniform sizes after that year. It was also a way for women with skills in pattern stamping or embroidery to generate their own source of income from the home.

Ida Anna Winkler (1907–1995) was a Danish painter and textile artist. In 1930, she joined the newly established Haandarbejdets Fremme, where over the next 65 years she created hundreds of mainly cross-stitch patterns. They have been widely used not only in Denmark but also in Germany, the United States, and Japan. She also contributed to some embroidery guides, some in English, published from the 1950s to the 1970s.

References

  1. 1 2 Heltoft, Kirsten. "hedebosyning" (in Danish). Gyldendal: Den Store Danske. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  2. 1 2 "Hedebo Embroidery. An Introduction (Denmark)". Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  3. 1 2 "Hedebo Embroidery on the Farms". Hedebo Embroidery. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  4. "Hedebo Embroidery in Copenhagen". Hedebo Embroidery. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  5. "Hedebo Embroidery over the Generations". Hedebo Embroidery. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  6. "How to Sew". Hedebo Embroidery. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  7. "Tællesyning (Denmark)". Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  8. "Dragværk" (PDF) (in Danish). Hedebosyning. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  9. "Drawn Thread Work". Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  10. "Rudesyning (Denmark)". Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  11. "Hvidsøm (Denmark)". Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  12. "Baldyring (Denmark)". Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Retrieved 8 March 2018.
  13. "Udklipshedebo (Denmark)". Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Retrieved 8 March 2018.