Pomade

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A tin of Royal Crown Hair Dressing Can of Pomade (Royal Crown).jpg
A tin of Royal Crown Hair Dressing
Sweet Georgia Brown Hair Dressing Pomade from 1947 Sweet-Georgia-Brown-Hair-Dressing-Pomade-1947.jpg
Sweet Georgia Brown Hair Dressing Pomade from 1947

Pomade is a greasy, waxy, or water-based substance that is used to style hair. It generally gives the user's hair a shiny, slick appearance. It lasts longer than most hair-care products, and often requires multiple washes for complete removal. The pomades of the 18th and 19th centuries consisted mainly of bear fat or lard. [1] Lanolin, beeswax and petroleum jelly have been used extensively in modern pomades. The hold of pomades makes sculptured hairstyles such as the pompadour waves (hairstyle) possible.

Contents

Names

The English word pomade derives from French pommade , itself from Italian pomata , from pomo ("apple") and -ata, used to form related nouns. In the Early Modern Period, pomades were ointments made from various kinds of fat and used to beautify both the skin and face. Mashed apples were added to help perfume the mixture. [2] (The word was also infrequently used as a synonym for apple cider.) Modern pomades may contain fragrances but are usually not particularly fruity. Other English names for the ointment, drink, and hair treatment are pomate and pomatum from pomatum , the Medieval Latin form of the same name.

History

Swedish ad for toiletries, 1905/1906. Katalog vintern 1905-1906. AB Nordiska Kompaniet. Har-, Toalett- & Tandvatten, Pomada & Brilliantine - Nordiska Museet - NMA.0040796.jpg
Swedish ad for toiletries, 1905/1906.

During the Roman era, soap was used as a pomade by some European tribes. [3] In the 19th century, bear fat was usually the main pomade ingredient. [4] In 1873 UK company Morgan's Pomade was established [5] selling Hair Darkening Pomade across the world. By the early 20th century, petroleum jelly, [6] beeswax, and lard were more commonly used. [7] Early 20th century examples of pomades include Murray's Superior Pomade (originating in 1925), [8] Sweet Georgia Brown Hair Dressing Pomade (originating in 1934) [9] and Royal Crown Pomade (originating in 1936). Dixie Peach Hair Pomade was popular with teenage boys in the U.S. from World War II through the 1960s.

Ancient Origins

The concept of pomade can be traced back to ancient times. The ancient Egyptians, for instance, used a substance similar to pomade made from animal fats and other ingredients to style their hair and wigs. This practice was not only about appearance but also about hygiene and protection from the harsh sun. [10]


Pomades were much more popular in the 1920s to 1950s [11] than they are today, although they have made a comeback in the 2010s with recent alternations to the marketplace, which feature not only traditionally manufactured petroleum and oil-based pomades but also modern water-soluble pomades. Compared to oil-based pomades, water-based pomades wash out more easily.

Hairstyles from the 20th and 21st centuries involving the use of pomade include the ducktail, pompadour, and quiff. The Pompadour was a cultural phenomenon in the mid-1950s to 1964 and was worn by young actors and those in the new musical genre, Rock and Roll. Examples can be seen on Elvis Presley, Chuck Berry and James Dean. In the 1980s, Rockabilly style Rock and Roll and the pompadour had a resurgence and was worn by musicians such as Brian Setzer and Chris Isaak.

Modern resurgence

The reemergence of popular pomade use coincides with the rise in popularity of the disconnected undercut hairstyle. The hairstyle is characterized by buzzed or faded sides, and a much longer top which is disconnected from the side hairs. The undercut hairstyle was first popularized in the early 20th century as affordable barbershops used the newly invented hair clipper to quickly and cheaply shave the sides of men's heads; leaving long top hairs that would be styled with pomade. During the 2010s, the style was featured in many popular period movies, especially World War II films, and in shows such as Peaky Blinders . Celebrities such as athlete David Beckham and actor Brad Pitt were seen donning this style of hair.

The heavy hold and slick look of pomade is very well suited to control the long hair of most undercut styles. [12]

Today's pomades fall under two main categories with some subcategories, the traditional oil-based pomade and the newer water-based and gel pomades. [13]

Traditional oil-based pomades are generally subdivided into three more groups: heavy hold, medium hold, and light hold. Heavier pomades generally have a higher wax content and better hold their shape throughout the day. The higher wax content usually results in a lower shine pomade. Light holds, sometimes called a brilliantine, have a higher oil content and therefore are usually more shiny. This type of pomade has a wet look and a lower hold. Some prominent modern oil-based pomades are Reuzel, Lockhart's, and Murray's.

The water-based pomades are split between gel-based pomades (Orthodox) and water-based (Unorthodox) pomades. Gel pomades come in different degrees of hold. Firm hold pomades dry much more stiff and are better at holding a particular style. However, they are generally less malleable and can only be restyled during the day by wetting the hair. These pomades generally contain hardening agents such as polyvinyl pyrolidone or vinyl pyrolidone. [14] Some popular gel pomades include Suavecito, Layrite and Imperial.

Unorthodox water-based pomades mimic the malleable qualities of oil-based pomades while still being able to be easily washed out like a gel pomade. Popular unorthodox water-based pomades include O'Douds, Shear Revival, Lockharts, and Flagship pomades.

Natural Versus Traditional Pomades

The modern preference for natural hair care solutions has given rise to a reevaluation of traditional pomade formulations. While the word "pomade" has historically been associated with a variety of hair styling products, there has been a notable shift away from products containing petroleum. This movement has been driven by an increasing awareness of the problems associated with petroleum-based hair products and a growing demand for natural hair care alternatives that are both safe and effective for users.

Traditional pomades, often petroleum-based, have been found to possess certain qualities that can be detrimental to the hair and scalp health of consumers. A primary issue lies in their tendency to cause buildup, leading to clogged hair follicles, which can impede hair growth and result in scalp ailments. Furthermore, the presence of certain petroleum derivatives has raised concerns over their potential health risks, including the risk of irritation and more serious consequences from prolonged use. [15]

In contrast, natural pomades are typically made from a blend of ingredients like shea butter, beeswax, and a variety of nourishing oils. These ingredients offer a stark difference in both intention and effect, aiming to provide nutrients and support for the hair and scalp, instead of merely offering styling hold. The benefits of natural ingredients over petroleum extend beyond avoiding negative side effects—they often contribute positively to the overall condition of the hair, promoting moisture retention and a healthy scalp environment.

The resurgence of natural hair grease reflects a broader consumer shift towards products that not only perform well but also align with a health-conscious lifestyle and ethical consumerism. As awareness and education about the benefits of natural hair care ingredients grow, so does the popularity of these safer, more beneficial alternatives in hair styling routines. [16]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Beeswax</span> Natural wax produced by honey bees of the genus Apis

Beeswax is a natural wax produced by honey bees of the genus Apis. The wax is formed into scales by eight wax-producing glands in the abdominal segments of worker bees, which discard it in or at the hive. The hive workers collect and use it to form cells for honey storage and larval and pupal protection within the beehive. Chemically, beeswax consists mainly of esters of fatty acids and various long-chain alcohols.

Grease may refer to:

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tallow</span> Rendered form of beef or mutton fat

Tallow is a rendered form of beef or mutton suet, primarily made up of triglycerides.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Petroleum jelly</span> Chemical substance used as a lubricating agent and topical ointment

Petroleum jelly, petrolatum, white petrolatum, soft paraffin, or multi-hydrocarbon, CAS number 8009-03-8, is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons, originally promoted as a topical ointment for its healing properties. Vaseline has been an American brand of petroleum jelly since 1870.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brylcreem</span> British mens hair styling product line

Brylcreem is a British brand of hair styling products for men. The first Brylcreem product was a hair cream created in 1928 by County Chemicals at the Chemico Works in Bradford Street, Birmingham, England, and is the flagship product of the brand. The cream is an emulsion of water and mineral oil stabilised with beeswax. It is notable for the high shine it provides, which spawned the name of the product, stemming from "brilliantine" and "cream".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair wax</span> Hairstyling product

Hair wax is a thick hairstyling product containing wax, used to assist with holding the hair. In contrast with hair gel, most of which contain alcohol, hair wax remains pliable and has less chance of drying out. It is often sold under names such as pomade, putty, glue, whip, molding gum, or styling paste. The texture, consistency, and purpose of these products varies widely and each has a different purported purpose depending on the manufacturer. Traditionally, pomade is a type of hair wax that also adds shine to one's hair.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair conditioner</span> Hair care product

Hair conditioner is a hair care cosmetic product used to improve the feel, texture, appearance and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce friction between strands of hair to allow smoother brushing or combing, which might otherwise cause damage to the scalp. Various other benefits are often advertised, such as hair repair, strengthening, or a reduction in split ends.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair gel</span> Gel used as a hairstyling product

Hair gel is a hairstyling product that is used to harden hair into a particular hairstyle.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ducktail</span> Hairstyle

The ducktail is a men's haircut style popular during the 1950s. It is also called the duck's tail, duck's ass, duck's arse, or simply D.A. and is also described as slicked back hair. The hair is pomaded (greased), combed back around the sides, and parted centrally down the back of the head.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Moustache wax</span>

Moustache wax is a stiff pomade applied to a moustache as a grooming aid to hold the hairs in place, especially at the extremities. The required product strength is based on whisker length and the desired style. It can also have restorative properties, which become more important as the hair length increases. The wax is usually scented and sometimes pigmented with dyes; high end products utilize various combinations of iron oxide to create darker shades.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cold cream</span> Facial treatment cream

Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various scent agents, designed to smooth skin and remove makeup. Cold cream is a water-in-oil emulsion, unlike the oil in water emulsion of vanishing cream, so-called because it seems to disappear when applied on skin. The name "cold cream" derives from the cooling feeling that the cream leaves on the skin. Variations of the product have been used for nearly 2000 years.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Conk</span> Hairstyle

The conk was a hairstyle popular among African-American men from the 1920s up to the early-to-mid 1960s. This hairstyle called for a man with naturally "kinky" hair to have it chemically straightened using a relaxer called congolene, an initially homemade hair straightener gel made from the extremely corrosive chemical lye which was often mixed with eggs and potatoes. The applier had to wear gloves and the solution timed just right on the applicant's head and then thoroughly rinsed out with cold water to avoid chemical burns. The desired outcome was for the newly straightened hair to be easily styled in the popular "conk" style of that era.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pouf</span> Hairstyle and a hairstyling support

The pouf or pouffe also "toque" is a hairstyle and a hairstyling support deriving from 18th-century France. It was made popular by the Queen of France, Marie Antoinette (1755–1793), when she wore it in June 1775 at the coronation of her husband Louis XVI, triggering a wave of French noblewomen to wear their hair in the same manner. The hairstyle would become popular across Europe in the 1770s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kinky hair</span> Human hair texture indigenous to sub-Saharan Africa, Melanesia, and Australia

Kinky hair, also known as afro-textured hair, is a human hair texture prevalent in the indigenous populations of many regions with hot climates, mainly sub-Saharan Africa, Melanesia, and Australia. Each strand of this hair type grows in a repeating pattern of small contiguous kinks. These numerous kinks make kinky hair appear denser than straight, wavy, and curly hair types.

Personal care products are consumer products which are applied on various external parts of the body such as skin, hair, nails, lips, external genital and anal areas, as well as teeth and mucous membrane of the oral cavity, in order to make them clean, protect them from harmful germs and keep them in good condition. They promote personal hygiene and overall health, well-being and appearance of those body parts. Toiletries form a narrower category of personal care products which are used for basic hygiene and cleanliness as a part of a daily routine. Cosmetic products, in contrast, are used for personal grooming and beautification. Pharmaceutical products are not considered personal care products.

Hairstyle products are used to change the texture and/or shape of hair.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hairstyles in the 1950s</span>

In the Western world, the 1950s were a decade known for experimentation with new styles and culture. Following World War II and the austerity years of the post-war period, the 1950s were a time of comparative prosperity, which influenced fashion and the concept of glamour. Hairstylists invented new hairstyles for wealthy patrons. Influential hairstylists of the period include Sydney Guilaroff, Alexandre of Paris and Raymond Bessone, who took French hair fashion to Hollywood, New York and London, popularising the pickle cut, the pixie cut and bouffant hairstyles.

Greasy hair is a hair condition which is common in humans, one of four main types of hair conditioning— normal, greasy, dry and greasy dry. It is primarily caused by build-up of the natural secretion from the sebaceous glands in the scalp and is characterised by the continuous development of natural grease on the scalp. A chronic condition of greasy hair may often accompany chronic greasy skin conditions on the face and body and oily skin and acne. Excessive carbohydrate, fat and starch consumption can increase the likelihood of developing greasy hair and also poor personal hygiene and not washing the hair for a long duration will lead to a buildup of sebum in the hair follicles. Hair conditioners can decrease the likelihood of developing greasy hair after shampooing. Some cosmetics companies produce shampoos and conditioners specifically to deal with greasy hair and for oily or dry hair problems. Massaging the scalp and exposure to the sun can reduce the problem of greasy hair.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Frizz</span> Hair that does not align with the surrounding hair

Frizz is hair that does not align with the surrounding hair, but stands up or curls independently, creating a fuzzy or irregular texture. The three main causes of frizz are genetics, hair damage, and humidity. Frizzy hair can be seen as a positive or a negative trait depending on the current fashion and one's personal preference. Many hair products, such as gels, pomades, and hair waxes, are designed to reduce frizz.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair oil</span> Oil applied to the hair.

Hair oil is an oil-based cosmetic product intended to improve the condition of hair. Various types of oils may be included in hair oil products. These often purport to aid with hair growth, dryness, or damage.

References

  1. "Pomade, lard and bear fat". Mr Bear Family. Retrieved 2022-11-15.
  2. Harper, Dan (2008), "Pomade", Online Etymology Dictionary .
  3. Pliny the Elder. Natural History.
  4. J. K. Crellin (1994). Home Medicine. McGill-Queen's Press. p. 88.
  5. "Morgan's Pomade Company History". Archived from the original on October 30, 2017. Retrieved January 10, 2018.
  6. Raymond Foss Bacon, William Allen Hamor (1916). The American petroleum industry. McGraw-Hill.
  7. Thomas William Cowan (1908). Wax Craft, All about Beeswax: Its History, Production, Adulteration, and Commercial Value. S. Low, Marston & co., ltd. p.  148.
  8. Murray's history Archived January 7, 2015, at the Wayback Machine
  9. "Sweet Georgia Brown". Sweet Georgia Brown. Retrieved September 25, 2018.
  10. "The Benefit of Using Hair Grease on Your Natural Hair". KeraVada. Retrieved 2023-12-12.
  11. Soldan, Stan (2017). The Pomade-Book. Munich, Germany. p. 302. ISBN   978-3-9816789-2-5.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  12. "Key Men's Hair Trend: The Disconnected Undercut". FashionBeans. Retrieved 2020-06-17.
  13. "Wax or water based Hair Pomade - whats the difference?". Barber Surgeons Guild. 2018-11-13. Retrieved 2020-06-17.
  14. "The Chemistry of Hair Gel - www.ChemistryIsLife.com". www.chemistryislife.com. Retrieved 2020-06-17.
  15. "Hair Grease and Growth: A Guide for Women of Color". KeraVada. Retrieved 2023-12-21.
  16. "Hair Grease: The Staple Hair Product is Making a Major Comeback, Naturally". KeraVada. Retrieved 2023-12-19.

Sources