Francis Kurkdjian

Last updated
Francis Kurkdjian
Born (1969-05-14) 14 May 1969 (age 54)
Paris, France
Alma mater
  • ISIPCA
  • Paris Institute of Luxury Marketing
Occupations
  • Businessman
  • perfumer
Years active1993present
Notable work Le Male
LabelMaison Francis Kurkdjian (2009present)
Website franciskurkdjian.com

Francis Kurkdjian (born 14 May 1969) is a French perfumer and businessman of Armenian descent. He is best known for creating the men's fragrance Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier in 1995, which has become one of the world's best-selling perfumes. He has since created a further 40 fragrances for major companies worldwide, including Elie Saab Le Parfum for Elie Saab; My Burberry for Burberry; L'extase for Nina Ricci; and Narciso Rodriguez for Her for Narciso Rodriguez, Green Tea for Elizabeth Arden.

Contents

Kurkdjian co-founded the fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Lebanese-French businessman and former Ernst & Young partner Marc Chaya, which has become a niche brand in the fragrance industry. The brand was purchased by LVMH in 2017 for an undisclosed sum. [1] He was the winner of the Prix François Coty in 2001 for his lifetime achievement.

Early life

Francis Kurkdjian was born in Paris, France on 14 May 1969 to Armenian parents. [2] [3] [4] Having been exposed to music and dancing at a young age, Francis Kurkdjian wanted to be a ballet dancer during his youth. [5] [2] However, he failed passing the competition to study at the Paris Opera Ballet School in 1983. [6] Kurkdjian, who already had an interest in perfume making since he was thirteen years old, decided in 1985 to become a perfumer. [5] In 1990, Kurkdjian entered the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l'Aromatique Alimentaire (ISIPCA), a perfume school located in Versailles, France. [6] He graduated from ISIPCA in 1993 and joined Quest International in Paris the same year. Kurkdjian continued his studies and obtained a master's degree from the Paris Institute of Luxury Marketing. [6]

Career

In 1995, at the age of twenty-six, Kurkdjian created Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the world's best selling perfumes. [7] [8] This became Kurkdjian's first success at perfume making. [8] This was followed by more than 40 creations for major fashion designers and houses.

Besides selling his scents to major fashion designers and houses in the beginning of his new career, Kurkdjian opened the pathways to a new vision, lending his talent to contemporary artists, re-creating Marie Antoinette’s favorite perfume for Palace of Versailles, going back in time to the early 17th century and the sources of perfumery. [7]

Kurkdjian has also created gigantic olfactory installations in emblematic spaces, making people dream with his ephemeral and spectacular perfumed performances and was honoured the "Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres" by French Government in 2008. [7] [9]

Papier d'Armenie being burnt on the right side Papier d'Armenie.jpg
Papier d'Arménie being burnt on the right side

He was the first to open his bespoke fragrances atelier in 2001, going against the trend of perfume democratization. [6]

In 2006, Kurkdjian redeveloped the Papier d'Arménie for the year of Armenia in France. [10] Papier d'Arménie, a type of Armenian paper produced in France, is a room deodorizing product sold as booklets of twelve sheets of paper each cut into three pieces, which are coated with benzoin resin, the dried sap of styrax trees.

He co-founded his own fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian with business partner Marc Chaya in 2009 near the Place Vendôme in Paris. [6] [9] The Maison Francis Kurkdjian is now a major player in the niche luxury fragrance segment with more than 300 locations worldwide.

In March 2017, European luxury goods conglomerate LVMH purchased the Maison Francis Kurkdjian business for an undisclosed sum. [1] Kurkdjian remains highly involved in the business.

On October 2021, Christian Dior appointed Kurkdjian as its new creative director of perfume. [11]

Awards and recognition

Among Kurkdjian's awards include: [6]

List of creations

List of fragrances created by Francis Kurkdjian
YearNameBrandCo-perfumer
1995Le MaleJean Paul Gaultier
1999FragileJean Paul Gaultier
Green TeaElizabeth Arden
2000Lily ChicEscada
2001Miracle HommeLancome
2002Armani ManiaGiorgio Armani
KenzoKi Lotus blancKenzo
Kouros Eau d'étéYves Saint Laurent
Versus Time for pleasuresVersace
2003For HerNarciso RodriguezChristine Nagel
Jeans couture GlamVersace
Miracle Homme l'AquatonicLancome
2004AquazurLancaster
ApparitionEmanuel UngaroFrançoise Caron
AutumnVan Cleef & Arpel
Iris NobileAcqua di ParmaFrançoise Caron
Kouros Cologne SportYves Saint Laurent
MuseJoop!
SummerVan Cleef & Arpel
2005AquasunLancaster
Cologne BlancheDior
Eau NoireDior
Gaultier Puissance2Jean Paul Gaultier
Rose BarbareGuerlain
Silver ShadowDavidoff
2006F by FerragamoSalvatore Ferragamo
RumeurLanvin
2007C'est la fêteChristian LacroixJean Jacques
Fleur du MaleJean Paul Gaultier
For HimNarciso Rodriguez
IsvarayaIndult
Lady VengeanceJuliette Has a Gun
Le ParfumEmanuel Ungaro
ManakaraIndult
Miss CharmingJuliette Has a Gun
ThiotaIndult
2008Eau d'AmourJean Paul Gaultier
Ligne de beauté MonsieurJean Paul GaultierNathalie Le Cann
MaDameJean Paul Gaultier
pour Colette C16Indult
2009APOM femmeMaison Francis Kurkdjian
APOM hommeMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Aqua UniversalisMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Cologne pour le matinMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Cologne pour le soirMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Lumière Noire femmeMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Lumière Noire hommeMaison Francis Kurkdjian
2010Absolue pour le matinMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Absolue pour le soirMaison Francis Kurkdjian
2011Aqua Universalis forteMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Le ParfumElie Saab
2012Amyris femmeMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Amyris hommeMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Le Parfum, eau de toiletteElie Saab
OudMaison Francis Kurkdjian
754 for Bergdorf GoodmanMaison Francis Kurkdjian
2013Aqua VitaeMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Ciel de GumMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Le ParfumCarven
Oud cashmere moodMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Oud silk moodMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Oud velvet moodMaison Francis Kurkdjian
2014A la roseMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Baccarat Rouge 540Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Carven pour hommeCarven
Féminin plurielMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Masculin plurielMaison Francis Kurkdjian
My BurberryBurberry
2015Aqua Vitae forteMaison Francis Kurkdjian
L'ExtaseNina Ricci
Le beau parfumMaison Francis Kurkdjian
La collection des essenceElie Saab
Oud satin moodMaison Francis Kurkdjian
Ultra MaleJean Paul Gaultier
2016Baccarat Rouge 540Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Carven L'Eau IntenseCarven
Kenzo WorldKenzo
Mr. BurberryBurberry
My Burberry BlackBurberry
Petit Matin & Grand SoirMaison Francis Kurkdjian
2017Aqua CelestiaMaison Francis Kurkdjian
2018HerBurberry

Artistic collaborations

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References

  1. 1 2 Weil, Jennifer (2017-03-20). "LVMH Acquires Maison Francis Kurkdjian". WWD. Retrieved 2024-02-02.
  2. 1 2 "Francis Kurkdjian" (in French). Parfume et Aromes.
  3. Carter, Lee. "Francis Kurkdjian Is Creating His Own Olfactory Universe". Hint Fashion Magazine.
  4. "Armenians of the World-Fransis Kurkjyan". YouTube. Shant TV. Archived from the original on 2021-12-15.
  5. 1 2 "Francis Kurkdjian: Perfumers". NST Perfumes.
  6. 1 2 3 4 5 6 "Biography". Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
  7. 1 2 3 "Fragrances from the Past". cfi.co. 15 July 2014.
  8. 1 2 "Francis Kurkdjian Fragrances". Sartorial Male.
  9. 1 2 Molvar, Kari. "Eau Extraordinaire By Francis Kurkdjian". Vanity Fair.
  10. "Incense Paper by Maison Francis Kurkdjian". Lucky Scent.
  11. "CHRISTIAN DIOR NAMES FRANCIS KURKDIJAN AS NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF PERFUME". crfashionbook.com. CR Fashion Book. 8 October 2021. Retrieved 9 October 2021.