Kipper

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Kippered "split" herring Kipper.JPG
Kippered "split" herring

A kipper is a whole herring, a small, oily fish, [1] that has been split in a butterfly fashion from tail to head along the dorsal ridge, gutted, salted or pickled, and cold-smoked over smouldering wood chips (typically oak).

Contents

In the United Kingdom, Republic of Ireland and some regions of North America, kippers are most commonly eaten for breakfast. In the United Kingdom, kippers, along with other preserved smoked or salted fish such as the bloater and buckling, were also once commonly enjoyed as a high tea or supper treat, most popularly with inland and urban working-class populations before World War II.

Terminology

The word is thought to derive from the Old English cypera, or copper, based on the colour of the fish. [2] The word has various possible parallels, such as Icelandic kippa which means "to pull, snatch" and the Germanic word kippen which means "to tilt, to incline". Similarly, the Middle English kipe denotes a basket used to catch fish. Another theory traces the word kipper to the kip, or small beak, that male salmon develop during the breeding season.

As a verb, kippering ("to kipper") means to preserve by rubbing with salt or other spices before drying in the open air or in smoke. Originally applied to the preservation of surplus fish (particularly those known as "kips," harvested during spawning runs), kippering has come to mean the preservation of any fish, poultry, beef or other meat in like manner. The process is usually enhanced by cleaning, filleting, butterflying or slicing the food to expose maximum surface area to the drying and preservative agents.

Kippers, bloaters, and bucklings

All three are types of smoked herring. Kippers are split, gutted and then cold-smoked; bloaters are cold-smoked whole; bucklings are hot-smoked whole.

Origin

The fish processing factory in the village of Seahouses, Northumberland, is one of the places where the practice of kippering herrings is said to have originated Kipperfactoryseahouses.jpg
The fish processing factory in the village of Seahouses, Northumberland, is one of the places where the practice of kippering herrings is said to have originated

Although the exact origin of the kipper is unknown, this process of slitting, gutting, and smoke-curing fish is well documented. [note 1] According to Mark Kurlansky, "Smoked foods almost always carry with them legends about their having been created by accident—usually the peasant hung the food too close to the fire, and then, imagine his surprise the next morning when …". [3] For instance Thomas Nashe wrote in 1599 about a fisherman from Lothingland in the Great Yarmouth area who discovered smoking herring by accident. [4] Another story of the accidental invention of kipper is set in 1843, with John Woodger of Seahouses in Northumberland, when fish for processing was left overnight in a room with a smoking stove. [5] [6]

Colouring

"Red herring": Cold-smoked herring (Scottish kippers), brined and dyed so that their flesh achieves a reddish colour Red herring.jpg
"Red herring": Cold-smoked herring (Scottish kippers), brined and dyed so that their flesh achieves a reddish colour

A kipper is also sometimes referred to as a red herring, although particularly strong curing is required to produce a truly red kipper. [7] The term appears in a mid-13th century poem by the Anglo-Norman poet Walter of Bibbesworth, "He eteþ no ffyssh But heryng red." [8] Samuel Pepys used it in his diary entry of 28 February 1660: "Up in the morning, and had some red herrings to our breakfast, while my boot-heel was a-mending, by the same token the boy left the hole as big as it was before." [9]

The dyeing of kippers was introduced as an economy measure in the First World War by avoiding the need for the long smoking processes. This allowed the kippers to be sold quickly, easily and for a substantially greater profit. Kippers were originally dyed using a coal tar dye called brown FK (the FK is an abbreviation of "for kippers"), kipper brown or kipper dye. Today, kippers are usually brine-dyed using a natural annatto dye, giving the fish a deeper orange/yellow colour. European Community legislation limits the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of Brown FK to 0.15 mg/kg. Not all fish caught are suitable for the dyeing process, with mature fish more readily sought, because the density of their flesh improves the absorption of the dye. An orange kipper is a kipper that has been dyed orange.

Kippers from the Isle of Man and some Scottish producers are not dyed; instead, the smoking time is extended in the traditional manner. [10]

Preparation

Kippers for breakfast in England Kippers at Burton Bradstock.jpg
Kippers for breakfast in England

"Cold-smoked" fish that have not been salted for preservation must be cooked before being eaten safely (they can be boiled, fried, grilled, jugged or roasted, for instance). In general, oily fish are preferred for smoking as the heat is evenly dispersed by the oil, and the flesh resists flaking apart like drier species.

In the UK, kippers are usually served at breakfast, although their popularity has declined since the Victorian and Edwardian eras. [11] [12] [13] [14]

In the United States, where kippers are much less commonly eaten than in the UK, they are almost always sold as either canned "kipper snacks" or in jars found in the refrigerated foods section. These are precooked and may be eaten without further preparation. [15]

Industry

Kippers produced in the Isle of Man are exported around the world. [16] Thousands are produced annually in the town of Peel, where two kipper houses, Moore's Kipper Yard (founded 1882) [16] and Devereau and Son (founded 1884), [16] smoke and export herring.

Mallaig, once the busiest herring port in Europe, [17] is famous for its traditionally smoked kippers, as are Stornoway kippers and Loch Fyne kippers. The harbour village of Craster in Northumberland is famed for Craster kippers, which are prepared in a local smokehouse, sold in the village shop and exported around the world.

The Manx word for kipper is skeddan jiarg, literally red herring; the Irish term is scadán dearg with the same meaning.

Kipper time is the season in which fishing for salmon in the River Thames in the United Kingdom is forbidden by an Act of Parliament; this period was originally the period 3 May to 6 January but has changed since.[ citation needed ]Kipper season refers (particularly among fairground workers, market workers, taxi drivers and the like) to any lean period in trade, particularly the first three or four months of the year.

Members of the Canadian military referred to English people as kippers because they were believed to frequently eat kippers for breakfast. [18]

The term kippering is used in slang to mean being immersed in a room filled with cigarette or other tobacco smoke. [ citation needed ]

The English (UK) idiom [to be] "stitched (or "done") up like a kipper" is commonly used to describe a situation where a person has (depending on context) been "fitted up" or "framed"; "used", unfairly treated or betrayed; or cheated out of something, with no possibility of correcting the "wrong" done.

In the children's books The Railway Series , and in the television show Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends , The Flying Kipper is a nickname for a fast fish train usually pulled by Henry the Green Engine.

The United States Department of Agriculture defines "Kippered Beef" as a cured dry product similar to beef jerky but not as dry. [19]

See also

Notes

  1. The practice of smoking salmon for preservation was seen by Lewis and Clark among American Indians of the Columbia River region.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Smoking (cooking)</span> Exposing food to smoke to flavor or preserve it

Smoking is the process of flavoring, browning, cooking, or preserving food by exposing it to smoke from burning or smoldering material, most often wood. Meat, fish, and lapsang souchong tea are often smoked.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Smoked salmon</span> Preparation of salmon

Smoked salmon is a preparation of salmon, typically a fillet that has been cured and hot or cold smoked.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Roe</span> Egg masses of fish and seafood

Roe, or hard roe, is the fully ripe internal egg masses in the ovaries, or the released external egg masses, of fish and certain marine animals such as shrimp, scallop, sea urchins and squid. As a seafood, roe is used both as a cooked ingredient in many dishes, and as a raw ingredient for delicacies such as caviar.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lox</span> Brined salmon

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pickled herring</span> Traditional way of preserving herring

Pickled herring is a traditional way of preserving herring as food by pickling or curing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Smoked meat</span> Type of prepared meat

Smoked meat is the result of a method of preparing red meat, white meat, and seafood which originated in the Paleolithic Era. Smoking adds flavor, improves the appearance of meat through the Maillard reaction, and when combined with curing it preserves the meat. When meat is cured then cold-smoked, the smoke adds phenols and other chemicals that have an antimicrobial effect on the meat. Hot smoking has less impact on preservation and is primarily used for taste and to slow-cook the meat. Interest in barbecue and smoking is on the rise worldwide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stockfish</span> Air-dried unsalted preserved fish

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dried and salted cod</span> Preserved fish

Dried and salted cod, sometimes referred to as salt cod or saltfish or salt dolly, is cod which has been preserved by drying after salting. Cod which has been dried without the addition of salt is stockfish. Salt cod was long a major export of the North Atlantic region, and has become an ingredient of many cuisines around the Atlantic and in the Mediterranean.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Buckling (fish)</span>

A buckling is a form of hot-smoked herring similar to the kipper and the bloater. The head and guts are removed but the roe or milt remain. They may be eaten hot or cold.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cured fish</span> Fish subjected to fermentation, pickling or smoking

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<i>Daing</i> Dried fished from the Philippines

Daing, tuyô, or bilad are dried fish from the Philippines. Fish prepared as daing are usually split open, gutted, salted liberally, and then sun and air-dried. There are also "boneless" versions which fillets the fish before the drying process. It was originally a preservation technique, as salt inhibits the growth of bacteria, allowing fish to be stored for long periods of time.

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Bokkoms is whole, salted and dried mullet, and is a well-known delicacy from the West Coast region of South Africa. This salted fish is dried in the sun and wind and is eaten after peeling off the skin. In some cases it is also smoked. It is sometimes referred to as "fish biltong".

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bloater (herring)</span> Term for herring that is smoked whole

Bloaters are a type of whole cold-smoked herring. Bloaters are "salted and lightly smoked without gutting, giving a characteristic slightly gamey flavour" and are particularly associated with Great Yarmouth, England. Popular in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the food is now described as rare. Bloaters are sometimes called a Yarmouth bloater, although production of the product in Yarmouth appears to have now ceased in the town with the closure of its smoked fish factory in 2018. The bloater is also sometimes jokingly referred to as a Yarmouth capon, two-eyed steak, or Billingsgate pheasant.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Herring as food</span> Type of fish used as food for humans

Herring are forage fish in the wild, mostly belonging to the family Clupeidae. They are an important food for humans. Herring often move in large schools around fishing banks and near the coast. The most abundant and commercially important species belong to the genus Clupea, found particularly in shallow, temperate waters of the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans, including the Baltic Sea, as well as off the west coast of South America. Three species of Clupea are recognized; the main taxon, the Atlantic herring, accounts for over half the world's commercial capture of herrings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cod as food</span> Gadidae fishes in human nutrition and cooking

Cod and other cod-like fish have been widely used as food through history. Other cod-like fish come from the same family (Gadidae) that cod belong to, such as haddock, pollock, and whiting.

References

  1. "What's an oily fish?". Food Standards Agency. 24 June 2004. Archived from the original on 10 December 2010. Retrieved 29 May 2009.
  2. "kipper | Etymology, origin and meaning of kipper by etymonline". www.etymonline.com. Retrieved 6 August 2023.
  3. Mark Kurlansky, 2002. Salt: A World History, ISBN   978-0-8027-1373-5.
  4. Hone, William (1838). The Every-day Book and Table Book. Vol. III. Glasgow: R. Griffin and Company. pp. 569–570.
  5. Trewin, Carol (2005). Gourmet Cornwall. Alison Hodge Publishers. p. 51. ISBN   978-0-906720-39-4.
  6. Davidson, Alan (2006). Alan Davidson; Tom Jaine (eds.). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 728. ISBN   978-0-19-280681-9.
  7. Quinion, Michael (2002). "The Lure of the Red Herring". WorldWideWords. Retrieved 21 April 2007.
  8. Bibbesworth, Walter de (2005) [c. 1250]. Rothwell, William (ed.). Femina: (Trinity College, Cambridge MS B.14.40). Anglo-Norman On-Line Hub. p. 27. ISBN   978-0-9552124-0-6.
  9. Pepys Samuel (1893). "The Diary of Samuel Pepys M.A. F.R.S." Samuel Pepys' Diary. Retrieved 21 February 2006.
  10. "Kippers" . Retrieved 2 March 2016.
  11. Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh (23 January 2010). "Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's herring recipes". The Guardian. Retrieved 6 June 2023. When cooking a special breakfast, we often have kippers
  12. Smithers, Rebecca (6 April 2012). "Kippers, the breakfast dish that fell out of favour, are back on British menus". The Guardian. Retrieved 6 June 2023. Kippers were the quintessential British breakfast food [...] of the Victorian and Edwardian eras.
  13. "kippers". britannica.com. Retrieved 6 June 2023. an iconic British breakfast dish
  14. "Kippers". eatyourworld.com. Retrieved 6 June 2023.
  15. "Kipper Snacks". kingoscar.com. Retrieved 14 October 2023.
  16. 1 2 3 "Isle of Man". BBC . Retrieved 9 May 2012.
  17. "Mallaig and its story". Mallaig Heritage Centre. Archived from the original on 4 July 2008. Retrieved 9 January 2010.
  18. Langeste, Tom (1995). Words on the wing: slang, aphorisms, catchphrases and jargon of Canadian military aviation since 1914. Canadian Institute of Strategic Studies. p. 161. ISBN   0919769535.
  19. "Food Standards and Labeling Policy Book, Aug 2005" (PDF). USDA. Retrieved 25 July 2021.

Further reading