American Mountain Guides Association

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The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is the United States' "sole representative to the 21-member International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA), the international governing body responsible for guiding standards and education around the world". [1] AMGA is a non-profit organization that seeks to represent the interests of American mountain guides by providing support, education, and standards. The Association offers training courses and certification exams in rock, alpine and ski mountaineering.

Contents

History

In 1979, 12 guides came together to form what was to become the American Mountain Guides Association as we know it today. AMGA aims to support "the guiding profession by providing representation for land use access, education, training, and examination based on international standards for guiding". As a result of this commitment, AMGA became a member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations in 1997. [2]

Mission statement

The American Mountain Guide's Association Mission To be the leader in education, standards, and advocacy for professional guides and climbing instructors. [1]

Associated organizations

AMGA requires that any guide who wishes to become accredited attend a certified guide program and receive wilderness medical training. Only a handful of organizations are recognized by AMGA as meeting their standards.

There are currently 30 organizations that AMGA feels meet the standards it has set out. Some of the organizations that AMGA recognizes for guide training are Colorado Mountain School, Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School, and Rainier Mountaineering.

For wilderness first aid training, even fewer organizations are recognized by AMGA. AMGA currently recognizes only eleven organizations. A few examples of such wilderness medical training organizations are Remote Medical International and the Wilderness Medicine Institute of NOLS. [3]

Climbing Instructor Programs

The AMGA offers two different climbing instructor programs. The Single Pitch Instructor and the Climbing Wall Instructor. [4]

Single Pitch Instructor

The Single Pitch Instructor Program teaches climbing instructors to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. Certification lasts for three years. After three years current SPI's can re-take the SPI Assessment to regain the certification. [5] The certification consists of a three day (24 hours) course and a two day (16 hours) exam. [6] AMGA Single Pitch Instructors are expected to operate within the confines of the following terrain limitations:

  1. Not of wilderness nature, up to Grade 1, and is climbed without intermediate belays.
  2. Approaches and descents to and from climbing venues present no difficulties such as route finding, scrambling, navigating, or short roping.
  3. The routes should not exceed Grade 1 or be more than one pitch in length. [7]

Climbing Wall Instructor

The Climbing Wall Instructor Program (CWI) was introduced in 2007 to certify professionals who teach in an indoor or artificial wall environment. There are two certifications for the CWI: AMGA CWI Top Rope and AMGA CWI Lead. The course length is a minimum of 20 hours of instruction, skills demonstration, and evaluation. The course typically runs over 2.5 days. The certification lasts for three years, and can be renewed via a one day reassessment. [8]

AMGA CWI Lead Instructors are limited to the following terrain:

  1. Operate on indoor climbing and bouldering walls
  2. Climbing structures that involve lead climbing and the instruction of lead climbing

AMGA CWI Top Rope Instructors are limited to the following terrain:

  1. Operate on indoor climbing and bouldering walls
  2. Climbing structures that do not involve lead climbing and do not include the instruction of lead climbing. [7]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing</span> Activity to ascend a steep object

Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains to small boulders. Climbing is done for locomotion, for sporting recreation, for competition, and is also done in trades that rely on ascension; such as rescue and military operations. Climbing is done indoors and outdoors, on natural surfaces, and on artificial surfaces.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mountaineering</span> Sport of mountain climbing

Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports in their own right. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some, but are part of a wide group of mountain sports.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Figure-eight loop</span> Type of knot

Figure-eight loop is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.

The Flemish loop or figure-eight loop is perhaps stronger than the loop knot. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie. In hooking a tackle to any of the loops, if the loop is long enough it is better to arrange the rope as a cat's paw.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Canyoning</span> Traveling in canyons using a variety of techniques

Canyoning is a type of mountaineering that involves travelling in canyons using a variety of techniques that may include other outdoor activities such as walking, scrambling, climbing, jumping, abseiling (rappelling), and swimming.

This is an index of topics related to climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glossary of climbing terms</span> For rock climbing and mountaineering

Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing, mountaineering, and to ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ski mountaineering</span> Skiing discipline

Ski mountaineering is a skiing discipline that involves climbing mountains either on skis or carrying them, depending on the steepness of the ascent, and then descending on skis. There are two major categories of equipment used, free-heel Telemark skis and skis based on Alpine skis, where the heel is free for ascents, but is fixed during descent. The discipline may be practiced recreationally or as a competitive sport.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pitch (climbing)</span> Steep section of a climbing route requiring a rope

In rock climbing and ice climbing, a pitch is a steep section of a route that requires a rope between two belays, as part of a climbing system. Standard climbing ropes are between 50 and 80 metres long, so a pitch is always shorter, between two convenient ledges if possible; longer routes are multi-pitch, requiring the re-use of the rope each time. In free climbing, pitch refers to classification by climbers of the difficulty of ascent on certain climbing routes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rock climbing</span> Type of sport

Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding sport, one that often tests a climber's strength, endurance, agility and balance along with mental control. Knowledge of proper climbing techniques and the use of specialized climbing equipment is crucial for the safe completion of routes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Mountaineers (club)</span> Alpine club in Washington state, United States

The Mountaineers is an alpine club in the US state of Washington. Founded in 1906, it is organized as an outdoor recreation, education, and conservation 501(c)(3) nonprofit organisation, and is based in Seattle, Washington. The club hosts a wide range of outdoor activities, primarily alpine mountain climbing and hikes. The club also hosts classes, training courses, and social events.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tour guide</span> Person who provides information and heritage interpretation to tourists

A tour guide (U.S.) or a tourist guide (European) is a person who provides assistance, information on cultural, historical and contemporary heritage to people on organized sightseeing and individual clients at educational establishments, religious and historical sites such as; museums, and at various venues of tourist attraction resorts. Tour guides also take clients on outdoor guided trips. These trips include hiking, whitewater rafting, mountaineering, alpine climbing, rock climbing, ski and snowboarding in the backcountry, fishing, and biking.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alpine Club of Canada</span>

The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) is an amateur athletic association with its national office in Canmore, Alberta that has been a focal point for Canadian mountaineering since its founding in 1906. The club was co-founded by Arthur Oliver Wheeler, who served as its first president, and Elizabeth Parker, a journalist for the Manitoba Free Press. Byron Harmon, whose 6500+ photographs of the Canadian Rockies in the early 20th century provide the best glimpse of the area at that time, was official photographer to the club at its founding. The club is the leading organization in Canada devoted to climbing, mountain culture, and issues related to alpine pursuits and ecology. It is also the Canadian regulatory organization for climbing competition, sanctioning local, regional and national events, and assembling, coaching and supporting the national team.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yosemite bowline</span> Loop knot often perceived as having better security than a bowline

A Yosemite bowline is a loop knot often perceived as having better security than a bowline. If the knot is not dressed correctly, it can potentially collapse into a noose, however testing reveals this alternative configuration to be strong and safe as a climbing tie-in.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Autoblock</span>

An autoblock is a rope device used in climbing and caving for both rappelling (downward) and ascending (upward).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mountain guide</span> Mountaineering expert who guides travellers or other mountaineers on their path

A mountain guide is a specially trained and experienced professional mountaineer who is certified by local authorities or mountain guide associations. They are considered to be high-level experts in mountaineering, and are hired to instruct or lead individuals or small groups who require this advanced expertise. This professional class of guides arose in the middle of the 19th century when Alpine climbing became recognized as a sport.

Outward Bound USA (OBUSA) is a non-profit organization providing experiential education in the United States through a network of regional schools, especially in wilderness settings. Outward Bound counts among its desired outcomes the development of self-awareness, self-confidence, leadership skills, environmental and social responsibility.

A mountain leader is a military professional specialising in delivering training for, or leading, operations in high altitude and / or extremely low temperature environments.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yamnuska Mountain Adventures</span> Mountaineering school & adventure company

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is a mountaineering school and mountain adventure company located in Canmore, Alberta, Canada. The company was founded in 1975.

RMI Expeditions, also known as Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI), is a mountain guide company based in Ashford, Washington founded in 1969 by Jerry Lynch and Lou Whittaker. It leads mountaineering, ski mountaineering, and ice climbing trips on Mount Rainier and the Seven Summits.

Mountaineering Ireland is the representative association for hikers and mountaineers on the island of Ireland. It is recognized by both Sport Ireland, the Irish authority for sport, and Sport Northern Ireland, the corresponding authority of the Government of Northern Ireland, thus operating across the island of Ireland. The association has been an International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) member since 2004, as well as a member of other federations. The association is also a publisher of walking and climbing guides.

References

  1. 1 2 "What We Do". amga.com. Retrieved September 13, 2015.
  2. "AMGA Instructor Programs - Fox Mountain Guides and Climbing School". Foxmountainguides.com. Archived from the original on September 5, 2015. Retrieved September 13, 2015.
  3. "AMGA ¦ Resources ¦ Wilderness Medicine". Archived from the original on 2012-10-20.
  4. "AMGA Climbing Instructor Program". AMGA. Retrieved 2021-02-06.
  5. "AMGA Single Pitch Instructor". AMGA. Retrieved 2021-02-06.
  6. "The Truth About Gear For The AMGA SPI Assessment". Outdoor Rack Builder Blog. 2020-12-08. Retrieved 2021-02-06.
  7. 1 2 "Terrain Guidelines". AMGA. Retrieved 2021-02-06.
  8. "AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor". AMGA. Retrieved 2021-02-06.