Avery Gilbert is a self-described "smell scientist" [1] and "sensory psychologist". [2]
Gilbert received his Ph.D. in Psychology from the University of Pennsylvania under the tutelage of Norman Adler.
He is most known for his book What the Nose Knows: The Science of Smell in Everyday Life published by Crown Publishing Group. The book was a finalist for the 2008 Los Angeles Times Book Prize in Science & Technology, [3] while also shortlisted for the 2009 Royal Society Prize for Science Books". [4]
In an interview with online fragrance magazine Sniffapalooza, [5] Gilbert states that he was inspired to write What the Nose Knows when his science colleagues expressed enthusiasm for his tough review of Chandler Burr's The Emperor of Scent [6] published in Nature Neuroscience in April 2003. [7] Gilbert wrote that Burr's biography of geneticist and Perfumes: The Guide author Luca Turin was "giddy and overwrought ... a triumphalist account of an unproven alternate theory".
Gilbert founded the Cranial One Corporation, developing a rapid smell test—the Cranial I Quick Sniff—for use by physicians and consumer research companies. He sold the company in 2005. He previously founded Synesthetics, Inc., a multisensory research and consulting company specializing in the consumer impact of smell, co-authored the National Geographic Smell Survey, [8] served as President of the Sense of Smell Institute, VP for Sensory Psychology at Givaudan Roure Fragrances, VP of sensory research for DigiScents (which shut down in 2001 due to lack of additional funding—the company had invested $20 million to develop technology to provide the sense of smell to the Internet, including investments from Givaudan and Quest International).
Gilbert was the subject of a recent Podcast by the New York Academy of Sciences. [9] Katie Puckrik video-interviewed Avery Gilbert for her website, 'Katie Puckrik Smells'. [10]
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory."
Chandler Burr is an American journalist, author, and museum curator.
Givaudan is a Swiss multinational manufacturer of flavours, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients. As of 2008, it is the world's largest company in the flavour and fragrance industries.
A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others. They must also know how each reveals itself over time. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for commercial food products.
Luca Turin is a biophysicist and writer with a long-standing interest in bioelectronics, the sense of smell, perfumery, and the fragrance industry.
Olivia Giacobetti is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined style as well as innovation such as her novel use of fig in perfumery, popularizing the note beginning in the mid-1990s. She is among the perfumers who became prominent in a late-20th and early-21st-century turn toward the "nose" behind the scent and independent lines that foreground these creators, a shift away from perfumes sold by fashion labels or celebrities in other fields.
Jean-Claude Ellena is a French perfumer and writer.
Roja Dove is a British perfumer whose fragrances are sold at department stores worldwide. Born and raised in Sussex, South East England, his career in perfumery began in 1981 when he joined the French perfume house Guerlain, working there for 20 years before leaving to set up his own companies RDPR and then Roja Parfums.
An odor or odour is caused by one or more volatilized chemical compounds that are generally found in low concentrations that humans and animals can perceive via their sense of smell. An odor is also called a "smell" or a "scent", which can refer to either a pleasant or an unpleasant odor.
Calice Asancheyev-Becker is a French master perfumer and director of Givaudan Perfumery School. As of 2018 she was president of the International Society of Perfume Creators.
Christophe Laudamiel is a French perfumer. He is co-founder and Master Perfumer of DreamAir creative studios in New York City, where he currently resides. In 2019 he was named Chief Perfumer to BélAir Lab in Tokyo: a perfume composition and technology studio newly managed by Rohto Pharmaceuticals. He is a founder and president of the non-profit Academy of Perfumery and Aromatics.
The Osmothèque is the world's largest scent archive, a leading international research institution tracing the history of perfumery, based in Versailles with conference centers in New York City and Paris. Founded in 1990 by Jean Kerléo and other senior perfumers including Jean-Claude Ellena and Guy Robert, the Osmothèque is internationally responsible for the authentication, registration, preservation, documentation and reproduction of thousands of perfumes gathered from the past two millennia, archived at the Osmothèque repository and consultable by the public.
Patricia de Nicolaï is a French perfumer who works as the head of her own perfume company Parfums de Nicolai. She is also a member of the technical committee of the French Society of Perfumers and the president of the Osmothèque scent archive.
Karyn Khoury is an American perfumer. She is Senior Vice President of Fragrance Development Worldwide for The Estée Lauder Companies. In 2012, Khoury was honored as one of the most influential fragrance developers of our time at the Visionaries Gala and Awards Ceremony by the Museum of Arts and Design in New York along with Sophia Grosjman.
Ormonde Jayne is a London-based niche perfume house founded by Linda Pilkington in 2000. Begun as a line of scented candles, the house now makes perfumes as well. The perfumes are created by Pilkington and Geza Schoen.
Daniela (Roche) Andrier is a German perfumer.
Aedes de Venustas is a niche perfume store and fragrance line. Aedes has operated in Manhattan since 1995. The house perfume line launched in 2012, although there was an earlier collaboration with L'Artisan Parfumeur creating a home fragrance (2005) and perfume (2008) also named Aedes de Venustas.
Un Jardin sur le Nil is a 2005 perfume created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès. A unisex eau de toilette, the scent was inspired by the green mangoes Ellena smelled while walking through a grove of mangoes during a visit to the Nile.
Ann-Sophie Barwich is a cognitive scientist, an empirical philosopher, and a historian of science. She is an Assistant Professor with joint positions in the Cognitive Science Program and the Department of History and Philosophy of Science at Indiana University Bloomington. Barwich is best known for her interdisciplinary work on the history, philosophy, and neuroscience of olfaction. Her book, Smellosophy: What the Nose tells the Mind, highlights the importance of thinking about the sense of smell as a model for neuroscience and the senses. She is also noted for her analyses on methodological issues in molecular biology and neuroscience.
Fracas is a 1948 perfume created by French perfumer Germaine Cellier for French fashion designer Robert Piguet. It is based on the scent of tuberose, a pungent small white flower. A landmark fragrance, it has spawned many imitators and as of 2021 has been in production for more than 70 years later.