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Block printing in India holds an important part in the country's rich cultural heritage and artistic traditions. [1] Dating back thousands of years, this special ancient technique of textile decoration involves the meticulous carving of intricate designs onto wooden blocks, which are then dipped in natural dyes and stamped onto fabric to create vibrant patterns and motifs. This was a creative outlet for many.
The origins of block printing in India can be traced back to ancient times, with archaeological evidence suggesting its practice as early as the Indus Valley Civilization (c. 3300–1300 BCE). [2] Over the centuries, Indian artisans refined the art of block printing, with different regions developing their own distinctive styles and patterns [3]
Indian block printing typically involves the use of natural materials and dyes sourced from the environment. Artisans meticulously carve intricate designs onto wooden blocks, often using traditional tools passed down through generations. These blocks are then dipped into natural dyes, such as indigo, turmeric, and madder, before being pressed onto fabric, creating a mesmerizing interplay of colors and patterns. The process requires precision, patience, and a deep understanding of design principles, resulting in exquisite textiles that are prized for their beauty and craftsmanship.
Ajrakh is a traditional form of block printing practiced in the Kutch region of Gujarat and parts of Rajasthan. It is characterized by its intricate geometric and floral patterns, often in shades of blue, red, and black. Ajrakh prints are renowned for their symmetry and precision, and they are traditionally used to create garments such as sarees, dupattas, and turbans.
Bagh printing is a traditional hand block printing technique practiced by the Chhipa community in Bagh, Madhya Pradesh. Known for its bold and vibrant designs, Bagh prints often feature intricate motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, birds, and animals. The prints are typically done using natural dyes, with a combination of resist and direct dyeing techniques to create striking patterns on cotton and silk fabrics.
Sanganeri printing is a traditional block printing technique that originated in Sanganer, a town near Jaipur, Rajasthan. It is known for its delicate floral patterns, intricate borders, and vibrant colors. Sanganeri prints are typically done on lightweight cotton fabrics and are characterized by their fine detailing and symmetrical designs. They are widely used for making sarees, salwar suits, and other traditional Indian garments.
Dabu printing is a traditional mud resist hand block printing technique practiced in Rajasthan. Artisans use a mixture of clay, gum, and lime to create intricate patterns on the fabric, which is then dyed using natural dyes. After dyeing, the fabric is washed, revealing the intricate white patterns created by the resist. Dabu prints often feature geometric motifs and floral designs, and they are widely used in making bedspreads, curtains, and tablecloths
Chanderi is a traditional handloom weaving center in Madhya Pradesh known for its fine muslin-like fabric. Chanderi printing involves the use of wooden blocks to create delicate motifs such as floral vines, peacocks, and geometric patterns on silk and cotton fabrics. The prints are often highlighted with metallic accents, adding a touch of elegance to sarees, suits, and dupattas.
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Kutch printing is a traditional block printing technique practiced by the artisan communities of Kutch, Gujarat. The prints are characterized by bold geometric patterns, intricate borders, and vibrant colors. Kutch prints often feature motifs inspired by nature, such as animals, birds, and flowers, and they are used to make a variety of textiles, including sarees, shawls, and bedspreads.
Bandhani is a type of tie-dye textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design. Today, most Bandhani making centers are situated in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab region and in Tamil Nadu where it is known as Sungudi. It is known as chunri in Pakistan. Earliest evidence of Bandhani dates back to Indus Valley civilization where dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C. The earliest example of the most pervasive type of Bandhani dots can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave at Ajanta. Bandhani is also known as Bandhej Saree, Bandhni, Piliya, and Chungidi in Tamil and regional dialects. Other tying techniques include Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The final products are known with various names including Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and Chandrokhani.
A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate designs, and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy.
Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but in dyeing properly the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, whereas in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.
Phulkari refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab region and Gulkari of Sindh in South Asia.
Textile design, also known as textile geometry, is the creative and technical process by which thread or yarn fibers are interlaced to form a piece of cloth or fabric, which is subsequently printed upon or otherwise adorned. Textile design is further broken down into three major disciplines: printed textile design, woven textile design, and mixed media textile design. Each uses different methods to produce a fabric for variable uses and markets. Textile design as an industry is involved in other disciplines such as fashion, interior design, and fine arts.
Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles. Designs in Indian embroidery are formed on the basis of the texture and the design of the fabric and the stitch. The dot and the alternate dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design.
Bagru is a town and a municipality in Jaipur district in the state of Rajasthan, India. It is located at a distance of 32 km from Jaipur, on Jaipur-Ajmer Road.
Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu in the place in where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.
Ajrak, also known as Ajrakh, is a unique form of textile block-printing found primarily in Sindh, Pakistan and the village of Ajrakhpur in the bordering Kutch district of India. Ajrak textiles like shawls or dresses display special designs and patterns made using block printing with stamps. Ajrak is a symbol of Sindhi culture and traditions. Ajrak prints are also famous in neighbouring areas of India, in Gujarat, due to their influence from the Indus Valley civilization. Apart from Sindh and Kutch, recently, a Saraiki version of the Ajrak called Sajarak was created and is found in South Punjab, Pakistan.
Resist dyeing (resist-dyeing) is a traditional method of dyeing textiles with patterns. Methods are used to "resist" or prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth, thereby creating a pattern and ground. The most common forms use wax, some type of paste made from starch or mud, or a mechanical resist that manipulates the cloth such as tying or stitching. Another form of resist involves using a dye containing a chemical agent that will repel another type of dye printed over the top. The best-known varieties today include tie-dye, batik, and ikat.
Rogan painting is an art of cloth printing practiced in Gujarat, Peshawar and Sindh. In this craft, paint made from boiled castor oil or linseed oil and vegetable dyes is laid down on fabric using a stylus.
A Sambalpuri sari is a traditional handwoven bandha (ikat) sari wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. It is produced in the Sambalpur, Balangir, Bargarh, Boudh and Sonepur districts of Odisha, India. The sari is a traditional female garment in the Indian subcontinent consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine meters in length that is draped over the body in various styles.
Kalamkari is a type of hand-painted cotton textile produced in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Only natural dyes are used in Kalamkari, which involves twenty-three steps.
Moroccan rugs are the weaves, carpets, and textiles that have been traditionally hand-woven in Morocco. Rugs have been woven by the indigenous people of Morocco since the Paleolithic Era. Traditionally, Moroccan rugs have been woven by tribal peoples for their utility rather than for decorative purposes. Twentieth-century Moroccan rugs are widely collected in the West, and are almost always woven by tribes people who do not seek nor possess formal artistic training.
The crafts of India are diverse, rich in history, culture and religion. The craft of each state in India reflect the influence of different empires. Throughout centuries, crafts have been embedded as a culture and tradition within rural communities.
Shweshwe is a printed dyed cotton fabric widely used for traditional Southern African clothing. Originally dyed indigo, the fabric is manufactured in a variety of colours and printing designs characterised by intricate geometric patterns. Due to its popularity, shweshwe has been described as the denim, or tartan, of South Africa.
Bagh print is a traditional Indian handicraft originating in Bagh, Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh, India. The process is characterised by hand printed wood block relief prints with naturally sourced pigments and dyes. Bagh print motifs are typically geometric, paisley, or floral compositions design, dyed with vegetable colours of red and black over a white background, and is a popular textile printing product. Its name is derived from the village Bagh located on the banks of the Bagh River.
Handloom saris are a traditional textile art of Bangladesh and India. The production of handloom saris is important for economic development in rural India.
Madurai Sungudi is a design from Madurai, in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, which is an exclusive textile product traditionally produced using tie and dye method by the Saurashtrians, who migrated to Madurai under the patronage of King Thirumalai Naicker in the 17th century. The fabric's traditional popular use is as a saree; the fabric is now also used to make shirts, salwars, shawls, handbags, bed sheets and pillow cases. The product has been given protection under the GI registration act.
Anokhi is an Indian retailer based in Jaipur, Rajasthan, which retails textiles, clothing, furnishings, and accessories, made with traditional Indian motifs and techniques. It was founded in 1970 by husband and wife, John and Faith Singh, with a focus on reviving traditional Rajasthani hand-block or woodcut printing techniques, and the use of natural vegetable dyes. Anokhi works directly with Rajasthani craftspeople, and retails through its 25 stores in India and a few stockists in Europe and the United States.