Die Dame

Last updated

Die Dame 1912 DieDame1912.jpg
Die Dame 1912

Die Dame (English: The Lady) was the first illustrated magazine in Germany to cater to the interests of modern women. It was also considered the "best journal of its kind in the world market" after the First World War. [1] The lifestyle magazine began in 1911 and ended in 1943. Die Dame consisted of essays, illustrations, and photography. The magazine was most active during the shift from the early 1920s, when the magazine celebrated the independent The New Woman, to the mid 1920s when women were portrayed as cold and masculine uniformity. [2]

Contents

History

In 1912, the Berlin publishing House Ullstein bought out Illustrierte Frauen-Zeitung (English: Illustrated Women's Newspaper) because the company founder Leopold Ullstein's five sons had already recognized that many women were affluent consumers but that Ullstein had no products specifically for them. The newspaper's content was thrifty advice on fashion and housekeeping. In 1912, the Illustrierte Frauen-Zeitung became Die Dame. [1]

1920-1925

Janina Dluska, Cover design for Die Dame magazine, 1920s. Janina Dluska1.jpg
Janina Dłuska, Cover design for Die Dame magazine, 1920s.

In the early 1920s, the magazine promoted independent and career driven women. Most of the original fashion layouts and cover pages were created by mostly female designers and artists such as Erica Mohr, Hanna Goerke, Martha Sparkuhl, Janina Dłuska, Julie Haase-Werkenthin, Gerda Bunzel, and Steffie Nathan. Renowned male commentators such as writer Friedrich Freksa and costume historian Max von Boehn were granted a large amount of space in Die Dame. The article discussed the phenomenon of fashion within a broader and cultural-historical frame in hopes of enlightening women. In 1923, Petra Fiedler, the daughter of the well-known modernist architect Peter Behrens, joined Die Dame's design team which caused the magazine to become more popular. [2]

1925-1930

In 1925, a Viennese designer, Ernst Dryden, was named chief artistic director of Die Dame , which caused a shift from the previous positive tone of modernity. In 1925–26, Arthur Schnitzler's Traumnovelle (English: Rhapsody: A Dream Novel) was serialized in Die Dame before being published in book form. By 1927 the photographs of female fashion editors and illustrators disappeared from the pages. Their work was given less and less visible space in the magazine, while Dryden's drawings and essay took over the magazine. His fashion layouts denied the individualization of the modern women, showing geometrical silhouettes arranged in a chorus line. In his works illustrated that women's experience of fashion are completely detached from the understanding of everyday life. They carried the markers of self-centered arrogance that invited many critics of the New Woman to misunderstand the New Woman. [2]

After 1930

In 1930, Dryden produced a cover design showing an elegant woman clutching a dog and standing in front of a Bugatti. His cover for November 1928 showing a languid beauty in the middle of a vast circle of sports cars all pointed lustfully towards her, is an image of the Jazz age Woman to match celebrity, Tamara's iconic self-portrait. Die Dame continued to be published under Nazi rule even though their publishing house, Ullstein, was expropriated because it was a Jewish family enterprise. Helen Grund was one of the few fashion journalists of the 1920s whose careers remained. Die Dame was finally discontinued two years before the end of the war because, as the edition stated, "manpower and material need to be freed up for other purposes in the interests of the war economy." [1]

Readership

There is no reliable information about the magazine's readership, but the publisher's concept and price suggest that it circulated among women of the middle and upper-middle classes. A single issue of the journal, which by 1939 had reached a circulation of 32,870, cost 1.50 Reichsmark in the 1920s, ten times the cost of a copy of the popular daily newspaper Berliner Tageblatt .

Die Dame was publicized by Ullstein as "the society magazine with an international reputation" and the German luxury magazine with the highest circulation (50,890) in 1929. [3]

Historical context

In World War I, the men had gone to the battlefields and women had to take over the men's jobs. They worked in war factories, hospitals, farms, shops, and single-handedly cared for the children. When the men came back from the war, some of the women resented being pushed back into domestic jobs. By early 1921, there was a labor shortage and the women were enticed to go back to work. Women's labor and female workers had become widely noticeable since World War I. This caused social disruption and gender recasting. In addition, women were granted the right to vote. [4]

Challenging gender roles

In 1926, Die Dame introduced the spring fashion season with a manipulation of traditional gender roles: sketches of female models in smoking jackets and short masculine haircuts and are accompanied by male models who dress in a similar fashion. [5] Although this representation of the New Woman was frequently condemned for reinforcing the "masculinization" of female gender identity, it considered sexual mobility between femininity and masculinity to be the distinguishing feature of women's fashion. In a fashion layout in 1926, the female figures retain feminine styles in their ruffled shirts and ribbon bow ties but appropriate at the same time as excess of masculine styles in their dinner suits and waistcoats which deemphasize the body.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hannah Höch</span> German artist (1889–1979)

Hannah Höch was a German Dada artist. She is best known for her work of the Weimar period, when she was one of the originators of photomontage. Photomontage, or fotomontage, is a type of collage in which the pasted items are actual photographs, or photographic reproductions pulled from the press and other widely produced media.

The Vossische Zeitung was a nationally known Berlin newspaper that represented the interests of the liberal middle class. It was also generally regarded as Germany's national newspaper of record. In the Berlin press it held a special role due to the fact that by way of its direct predecessors it was the oldest newspaper in the city. The name went back to Christian Friedrich Voss, who was its owner from 1751 to 1795, but Vossische Zeitung became its official name only after 1911. It ceased publication in 1934 under pressure from the Nazi state.

<i>Arbeiter-Illustrierte-Zeitung</i> German illustrated magazine

Arbeiter-Illustrierte-Zeitung or AIZ was a German illustrated magazine published between 1924 and March 1933 in Berlin, and afterward in Prague and finally Paris until 1938. Anti-Fascism and pro-Communism in stance, it was published by Willi Münzenberg and is best remembered for the propagandistic photomontages of John Heartfield.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Leopold Ullstein</span> German newspaper publisher

Leopold Ullstein was the founder and publisher of several successful German newspapers, including B.Z. am Mittag and Berliner Morgenpost. Many of these are still published today. Ullstein was also the founder of the leading German publishing house Ullstein-Verlag.

Marianne Breslauer was a German photographer, photojournalist and pioneer of street photography during the Weimar Republic.

<i>Berliner Morgen-Zeitung</i>

The Berliner Morgen-Zeitung was a daily morning newspaper in Berlin, Germany.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Women in Nazi Germany</span> Nazi policies regarding the role of women in German society

Women in Nazi Germany were subject to doctrines of Nazism by the Nazi Party (NSDAP), which promoted exclusion of women from the political and academic life of Germany as well as its executive body and executive committees. On the other hand, whether through sheer numbers, lack of local organization, or both, many German women did indeed become Nazi Party members. In spite of this, the Nazi regime officially encouraged and pressured women to fill the roles of mother and wife only. Women were excluded from all other positions of responsibility, including political and academic spheres.

<i>Die Freundin</i> German lesbian magazine from 1924 to 1933

Die Freundin was a popular Weimar-era German lesbian magazine published from 1924 to 1933. Founded in 1924, it was the world's first lesbian magazine, closely followed by Frauenliebe and Die BIF. The magazine was published from Berlin, the capital of Germany, by the Bund für Menschenrecht, run by gay activist and publisher Friedrich Radszuweit. The Bund was an organization for homosexuals which had a membership of 48,000 in the 1920s.

<i>Berliner Illustrirte Zeitung</i> German weekly illustrated magazine (1892–1945)

The Berliner Illustrirte Zeitung, often abbreviated BIZ, was a German weekly illustrated magazine published in Berlin from 1892 to 1945. It was the first mass-market German magazine and pioneered the format of the illustrated news magazine.

Frieda Gertrud Riess was a German portrait photographer in the 1920s with a studio in central Berlin.

Feminism in Germany as a modern movement began during the Wilhelmine period (1888–1918) with individual women and women's rights groups pressuring a range of traditional institutions, from universities to government, to open their doors to women. This movement culminated in women's suffrage in 1919. Later waves of feminist activists pushed to expand women's rights.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Selli Engler</span> German lesbian activist (1899–1972)

Selma "Selli" Engler was a leading activist of the lesbian movement in Berlin from about 1924 to 1931.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jeanne Mammen</span> German painter

Jeanne Mammen was a German painter, illustrator, and printmaker. Her work is associated with the New Objectivity, Symbolism, and Cubism movements. She is best known for her depictions of strong, sensual women and Berlin city life during the Weimar period.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yva</span> German photographer

Yva was the professional pseudonym of Else Ernestine Neuländer-Simon who was a German Jewish photographer renowned for her dreamlike, multiple exposed images. She became a leading photographer in Berlin during the Weimar Republic.

Uhu was a monthly magazine published between 1924 and 1934 in Berlin by Ullstein Verlag. It is seen retrospectively as a pioneering publication of the Weimar period.

<i>Die BIF</i> 1926–1927, worlds first lesbian magazine published, edited and written solely by women

Die BIF – Blätter Idealer Frauenfreundschaften, subtitled Monatsschrift für weibliche Kultur, was a short-lived lesbian magazine of Weimar Germany, published from either 1925 or 1926 until 1927 in Berlin. Founded by lesbian activist Selli Engler, Die BIF was part of the first wave of lesbian publications in history and the world's first lesbian magazine to be published, edited and written solely by women.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wolfgang Weber (journalist)</span> German journalist

Wolfgang Weber was a German photojournalist and film producer.

<i>Der Bazar</i> Weekly womens fashion magazine in Berlin (1855–1933)

Der Bazar was a fashion magazine which was published in Berlin, German Empire, in the period 1854–1933. Its subtitle was first Technische Muster-Zeitung für Frauen. Then it was changed to Illustrirte Damen-Zeitung from 1 January 1857. It is one of the earliest examples of a multilingual magazine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Julie Elias (author)</span>

Julie Elias was a German fashion journalist and author of cookbooks, which also dealt with Jewish cuisine. She was worldly, highly educated, and during her lifetime was known beyond the borders of Germany as a culinary salonnière and successful writer. In 1938, persecuted as a Jew, she had to flee Germany. After the destruction of European Jewry in the Holocaust, there were hardly any traces of her left in the public memory.

<i>Neue Berliner Illustrierte</i> East German weekly magazine (1945–1991)

Neue Berliner Illustrierte was a weekly illustrated magazine which existed between 1945 and 1991. It was published in East Germany and then in Germany following the German reunification. Its title was a reference to Berliner Illustrirte Zeitung which was an influential German publication at the beginning of the 20th century.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Ramsbrock, Annelie (20 May 2015). The Science of Beauty: Culture and Cosmetics in Modern Germany, 1750–1930. Palgrave Macmillan. ISBN   9781137523150.
  2. 1 2 3 Ganeva, Mila (2008). Women in Weimar Fashion: Discourses and Displays in German Culture, 1918-1933. Camden House. ISBN   9781571132055.
  3. King, Lynda J. (1 January 1988). Best-sellers by Design: Vicki Baum and the House of Ullstein. Wayne State University Press. ISBN   0814320007.
  4. Guenther, Irene (2004). Nazi Chic?: Fashioning women in the Third Reich . Berg. ISBN   185973717-X.
  5. Petro, Patrice (1989). Joyless Streets: Women and Melodramatic Representation in Weimar Germany. Princeton University Press. ISBN   0691008302.