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Eri silk, a prized fabric woven from the cocoons of domesticated silkworms, holds a special place in the rich cultural heritage of Meghalaya, a state in northeastern India. It is a traditional art inherited from generation to generation and treated as a means of occupation, making the clusters self sustaining communities. [1]
Made from the domesticated silkworm Samia Cynthia Ricini, Eri Silk, locally known as Ryndia, is a traditional fabric woven by the tribes of Meghalaya. Ryndia [2] derives its name from the Castor leaves called 'Rynda,' which serve as the primary food source for the silkworms.[ citation needed ]
The Ri-Bhoi District is region in Meghalaya where Eri culture [3] and handloom weaving [4] continue to thrive. Weaving with Eri silk [5] is an integral part of the district's culture and heritage, handed down through generations. Exclusively carried out by women, the process involves spinning and weaving using traditional tools such as the Takli and other handmade devices. The entire value chain, [6] including silkworm rearing, application of natural dyes, and weaving, takes place within the state. Women in Meghalaya actively engage in the rearing and weaving of Eri Silk, making it a household activity exclusively conducted by them.[ citation needed ]
Eri Silk, commonly referred to as 'Peace Silk' [7] or the 'Fabric of Peace, [8] ' is named so due to the non-violent method of silk extraction practised for generations in Meghalaya, which does not harm or kill the silkworms. This unique silk variant possesses a thicker texture and exhibits wool-like characteristics. Ryndia, known for its durability, surpasses other silk fabrics, making it an heirloom [9] material passed down through generations in Meghalaya. A distinguishing feature of Ryndia woven in Meghalaya is its 100% natural dyeing process, [10] using plants and plant parts such as turmeric, onion skins, and plant-based mordants like Sohkhu and Soh tung. These dyeing techniques are exclusively practised by weavers in Ri-Bhoi, [11] Meghalaya.[ citation needed ]
Ri-Bhoi District serves as the epicentre of Eri Silk weaving [12] in Meghalaya and is among the various regions where Eri culture and handloom weaving are deeply rooted in tradition. [13] The process of spinning and weaving Eri silk is exclusively carried out by women, [14] employing traditional tools such as the Takli and other handmade implements.
Meghalaya, particularly the weavers from Ri-Bhoi District, employs environmentally friendly methods by utilizing natural ingredients for dyeing Eri Silk. [15] These ingredients include flowers, leaves, vegetable peels, and tree bark, which are collected by women weavers from nearby forests. Traditionally, the artisans primarily utilise three main colours: Lac for red, turmeric for yellow, and black which is derived from iron ore. However, through training provided by government initiatives and non-governmental organizations, artisans have expanded their range of colours. [1]
What distinguishes the natural dyeing [16] process in this region is the utilization of natural dye fixatives or mordants that help the natural colours adhere to the yarn. Some examples of these natural mordants include Sohkhu tree leaves (Baccaurea ramiflora lour), tree bark of Diengrnong (local name), Sohtung leaves (Terminalia chebula retz), and others.
The weavers of Ri-Bhoi have recorded the use of thirty-three plant species for creating natural organic colours [17] to dye Eri-silk yarns. These dyestuffs and mordants are obtained from locally available plants and plant parts, such as leaves, bark, fruits, stems, and peels. Most of these plants are naturally grown, while some are cultivated in the weavers' backyards specifically for colour extraction.[ citation needed ]
In recognition of the significance of the traditional weaving of Eri Silk and natural dyeing Umden in Meghalaya, the Department of Textiles declared Diwon, Raid Nongtluh, located in Ri-Bhoi, as the State's first Eri Silk Village [18] on February 12, 2021.
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms.
Ikat is a dyeing technique from Southeast Asia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In Southeast Asia, where it is the most widespread, ikat weaving traditions can be divided into two general groups of related traditions. The first is found among Daic-speaking peoples. The second, larger group is found among the Austronesian peoples and spread via the Austronesian expansion to as far as Madagascar. It is most prominently associated with the textile traditions of Indonesia in modern times, from where the term ikat originates. Similar unrelated dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including India, Central Asia, Japan, Africa, and the Americas.
A Persian carpet, Persian rug, or Iranian carpet is a heavy textile made for a wide variety of utilitarian and symbolic purposes and produced in Iran, for home use, local sale, and export. Carpet weaving is an essential part of Persian culture and Iranian art. Within the group of Oriental rugs produced by the countries of the "rug belt", the Persian carpet stands out by the variety and elaborateness of its manifold designs.
The Khasi people are an ethnic group of Meghalaya in north-eastern India with a significant population in the bordering state of Assam, and in certain parts of Bangladesh. Khasi people form the majority of the population of the eastern part of Meghalaya, that is Khasi Hills, constituting 78.3% of the region's population, and is the state's largest community, with around 48% of the population of Meghalaya. They are among the few Austroasiatic-speaking peoples in South Asia. The Khasi tribe holds the distinction of being one of the few remaining tribes that have a matrilineal society. Under the Constitution of India, the Khasis have been granted the status of Scheduled Tribe.
A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate designs, and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy.
Piña is a traditional Philippine fiber made from the leaves of the pineapple plant. Pineapples are indigenous to South America but have been widely cultivated in the Philippines since the 17th century, and used for weaving lustrous lace-like luxury textiles known as nipis fabric. The name is derived from Spanish piña, meaning "pineapple".
African textiles are textiles from various locations across the African continent. Across Africa, there are many distinctive styles, techniques, dyeing methods, and decorative and functional purposes. These textiles hold cultural significance and also have significance as historical documents of African design.
Assam silk denotes the three major types of indigenous wild silks produced in Assam—golden muga, white pat and warm eri silk. The Assam silk industry, now centered in Sualkuchi, is a labor-intensive industry.
Eri silk is the product of the domesticated silkworm Samia ricini, found mainly in North East India and some part of China and Japan. It was imported to Thailand in 1974. The name "eri" is derived from the Naga word "era", which means "castor", as the silkworm feeds on castor plants. Eri silk is also known as endi or errandi in India. The woolly white silk is often referred to as the fabric of peace when it is processed without killing the silkworm. This process results in a silk called Ahimsa silk. Moths leave the cocoon and then the cocoons are harvested to be spun. The eri silkworm is the only completely domesticated silkworm other than Bombyx mori.
A Sambalpuri sari is a traditional handwoven bandha (ikat) sari wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. It is produced in the Sambalpur, Balangir, Bargarh, Boudh and Sonepur districts of Odisha, India. The sari is a traditional female garment in the Indian subcontinent consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine meters in length that is draped over the body in various styles.
Tussar silk is produced from larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus Antheraea, including A. assamensis, A. paphia, A. pernyi, A. roylei, and A. yamamai. These silkworms live in the wild forests in trees belonging to Terminalia species and Shorea robusta, as well as other food plants such as jamun and oak found in South Asia, eating the leaves of the trees on which they live. Tussar silk is valued for its rich texture and natural, deep-gold colour, and varieties are produced in many countries, including China, India, Japan, and Sri Lanka.
Tnalak, is a weaving tradition of the Tboli people of South Cotabato, Philippines. T'nalak cloth is woven exclusively by women who have received the designs for the weave in their dreams, which they believe are a gift from Fu Dalu, the T'boli Goddess of abacá.
Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources—roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood—and other biological sources such as fungi.
Kumejima-tsumugi (久米島紬) is the Japanese craft of silk cloth practised in Kumejima, Okinawa Prefecture. Kumejima-tsumugi is the oldest type of tsumugi in Japan, out of the approximately two hundred forms of tsumugi, and is the oldest kasuri fabric. It is recognised as one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan.
Baluchari Sari is a type of sari, a garment worn by women in the Indian states of West Bengal, Tripura and Assam and the country of Bangladesh. This particular type of sari originated in West Bengal and is known for depictions of mythological scenes on the anchal of the sari. It used to be produced in Murshidabad but presently Bishnupur and its surrounding areas of West Bengal are the only place where authentic Baluchari saris are produced. It takes approximately one week to produce one such sari. In 2011, the Baluchari Sari was granted the status of Geographical Indication for West Bengal in India.
Pochampally sari or Pochampalli ikat is a saree made in Bhoodan Pochampally, Yadadri Bhuvanagiri district, Telangana State, India. They have traditional geometric patterns in "Paagadu Bandhu" (Ikat) style of dyeing. The intricate geometric designs find their way into sarees and dress materials. The Indian government's official airplane company, Air India, has its cabin crew wear specially designed Pochampally silk sarees.
Handloom saris are a traditional textile art of Bangladesh and India. The production of handloom saris is important for economic development in rural India.
Habaspuri is a cotton-based traditional handloom textiles of Odisha, India. Habaspuri sari is a major product of this textile. The Bhulia weavers of Chicheguda, Kalahandi district, Odisha are originally attributed for weaving of the Habaspuri fabric. For its uniqueness in weaving, design and production, it has been identified as one of the 14 Geographical Indications of Odisha.
Kotpad Handloom is a vegetable-dyed fabric woven by the tribal weavers of the Mirgan community of Kotpad village in Koraput district, Odisha, India. Cotton sarees with solid border and Pata Anchal, duppatta with typical Buties / motifs, Scolrfs on cotton, silk, handloom stoles, and dress materials are all dyed with organic dyes. The natural dye is manufactured from the aul tree grown in this area. The Kotpad tussar silk saree with tribal art and Kotpad handloom fabrics with natural color is its specialty.
A tanmono is a bolt of traditional Japanese narrow-loomed cloth. It is used to make traditional Japanese clothes, textile room dividers, sails, and other traditional cloth items.
