Eva Rosencrans

Last updated
Eva Rosencrans, c.1940 Eva Rosencrans, 1940.jpeg
Eva Rosencrans, c.1940

Eva Rosencrans (1901-1994) was an American fashion designer of Russian descent who worked mainly for her sister-in-law Nettie Rosenstein as a business partner and head designer. She designed Mamie Eisenhower's inauguration gown. [1]

Contents

Early life

Born Eva Greene in Russia, she came to Manhattan as an infant with her family. [1] She was supported by a philanthropic group called Manhattan Trade which supported children from low-income families to pursue trades. She attended the Manhattan Trade School for Girls from 1914 to 1915, where she had consistently good grades, and won first prize for her self-made graduation dress. [1] Aged 14, the school placed her with a local dressmaker's, where she worked for a year before leaving in 1916 to work for the then up-and-coming Nettie Rosenstein. [1]

Nettie Rosenstein

Mamie Eisenhower wearing her 1953 Inaugural ballgown designed by Rosencrans for Nettie Rosenstein Mamie-Eisenhower.jpg
Mamie Eisenhower wearing her 1953 Inaugural ballgown designed by Rosencrans for Nettie Rosenstein

In 1922, Eva married Rosenstein's brother, Alvin Rosencrans. [1] In 1928, Nettie and her husband decided to retire, but following the Wall Street Crash of 1929 which almost wiped out the Rosensteins' fortune, Nettie Rosenstein decided to relaunch again. [1] At this time, she insisted on her sister-in-law becoming her associate designer and one of her two business partners, alongside a man called Charles Gumprecht. [1] [2] Rosencrans was given a 30% stake and her own designing room, and she and Nettie shared designing responsibilities, which increasingly became more and more Rosencrans' responsibility as Rosenstein focused on the business of managing a highly successful fashion house that was worth over a million dollars by 1937. [1]

In 1950, Mamie Eisenhower came to Nettie Rosenstein, where she was personally dealt with by Rosencrans, and became a good friend and regular client, having both her 1953 and 1957 inauguration gowns created by Rosencrans. [1] Eva Rosencrans was happy to allow her sister-in-law to take credit for the designs. [1] However, she would increasingly be acknowledged as a designer for Nettie Rosenstein from this point onward. In 1953 the journalist Phyllis Battelle acknowledged that Rosenstein did only half the designing for her brand herself, and that she was aided by Rosencrans. [3] By 1959, Nettie Rosenstein designs were increasingly acknowledged as being by Rosencrans for the label. [4] [5] However, in 1961, Rosenstein would make the decision to stop offering clothing altogether, and instead focus upon jewelry, perfume and accessories. [1]

Later life and death

After her sister-in-law ceased dress design, in 1961, Rosencrans moved on to Ben Reig, where, for the first time, she received consistent name credit for her designs. [1] [2] In 1968, the same year that Reig died, Rosencrans became a teacher at the Fashion Institute of Technology for two years before retiring. [1]

She spent the rest of her life in New York where she died in 1994. [1] One of her sons was the cable television pioneer Robert Rosencrans. [1]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mamie Eisenhower</span> First Lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961

Mary Geneva "Mamie" Eisenhower was the first lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961 as the wife of President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Born in Boone, Iowa, she was raised in a wealthy household in Colorado. She married Eisenhower, then a lieutenant in the United States Army, in 1916. She kept house and served as hostess for military officers as they moved between various postings in the United States, Panama, the Philippines, and France. Their relationship was complicated by his regular absences on duty and by the death of their firstborn son at the age of three. She became a prominent figure during World War II as General Eisenhower's wife.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Norman Hartnell</span> British fashion designer (1901–1979)

Sir Norman Bishop Hartnell was a leading British fashion designer, best known for his work for the ladies of the royal family. Hartnell gained the Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth in 1940, and Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II in 1957. Princess Beatrice also wore a dress designed for Queen Elizabeth II by Hartnell for her wedding in 2020.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ball gown</span> Type of evening gown

A ball gown, ballgown or gown is a type of evening gown worn to a ball or a formal event. Most versions are cut off the shoulder with a low décolletage, exposed arms, and long bouffant styled skirts. Such gowns are typically worn with an opera-length white gloves, vintage jewelry or couture, and a stole, cape, or cloak in lieu of a coat. Where "state decorations" are to be worn, they are on a bow pinned to the chest, and married women wear a tiara if they have one. Although synthetic fabrics are now sometimes used, the most common fabrics are satin, silk, taffeta and velvet with trimmings of lace, pearls, sequins, embroidery, ruffles, ribbons, rosettes and ruching.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reem Acra</span> Lebanese fashion designer

Reem Acra is a fashion designer born in Beirut, Lebanon, known for her eponymous bridal gown line and her ready-to-wear collection.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Helen Rose</span> American costume designer (1904–1985)

Helen Rose was an American costume designer and clothing designer who spent the bulk of her career with Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ann Lowe</span> American fashion designer

Ann Cole Lowe was an American fashion designer. Best known for designing the ivory silk taffeta wedding dress worn by Jacqueline Bouvier when she married John F. Kennedy in 1953, she was the first African American to become a noted fashion designer. Lowe's designs were popular among upper class women for five decades from the 1920s through the 1960s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jason Wu</span> Canadian artist and fashion designer (born 1982)

Jason Wu is a Canadian artist and fashion designer based in New York City. Born in Taiwan and raised in Vancouver, he studied fashion design at Parsons School of Design, and trained under Narciso Rodriguez before launching his own line.

Betty Jackson, RDI is an English fashion designer based in London, England. She was born in Lancashire. In 2007, her success in British fashion was recognised with first an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours 1987 and later with a CBE for "services to the fashion industry." She is also known for designing many of the costumes worn by Edina and Patsy on the 1990s hit television comedy Absolutely Fabulous.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dorothy Shaver</span> American businesswoman and president of Lord & Taylor

Dorothy Shaver was the first woman in the United States to head a multimillion-dollar firm. She was a well known leader of the fashion industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nettie Rosenstein</span> American fashion designer (1890–1980)

Nettie Rosenstein was an American fashion designer, based in New York City between c.1913 and 1975. She was particularly renowned for her little black dresses and costume jewelry.

Charles John Kleibacker was an American fashion designer who earned the nickname "Master of the Bias" for the complex designs of his gowns for women, carefully cut from fabric at a diagonal to the weave.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sophie Gimbel</span> American fashion designer

Sophie Gimbel was an American fashion designer for Salon Moderne of Saks Fifth Avenue. She was a leading designer for nearly 40 years and an innovator of the "New Look" that gained popularity after World War II.

Ceil Chapman was an American fashion designer who worked in New York City from the 1940s to the 1960s. She created glamorous cocktail and party dresses, and worked with celebrity clients including television and movie actresses.

Mollie Parnis, later Livingston, was an American fashion designer. She belongs to the first generation of American designers to be known to the public by name rather than by affiliation to a department store and is best known for designing clothing worn by many First Ladies, as well as the uniform of the Cadet Nurse Corps in World War II.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sherri Hill</span> American fashion designer

Sherri Hill is an American fashion designer and businesswoman who specializes in formal evening wear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Michael Sherard</span> British fashion designer

Michael Sherard was a British fashion designer and a member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, which represented the British couture industry in the wartime and post-war years. Operating his own label from the 1940s to 1960s, he is remembered primarily for his evening and occasion gowns. He also helped train future British designers, including Caroline Charles, and was later a design academic.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Robert Rosencrans</span> American television network executive (1927–2016)

Robert Morris "Bob" Rosencrans was a cable television industry pioneer who helped create C-SPAN, an American public affairs television network. In addition, he helped launch the television networks BET and MSG, a predecessor of the USA Network.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sally Victor</span> American milliner

Sally Victor was a prominent American milliner from the late 1920s through the 1960s. Her designs were popular with Hollywood actresses such as Irene Dunne, Helen Hayes, and Merle Oberon, as well as First Ladies Mamie Eisenhower and Jacqueline Kennedy, and Queen Elizabeth II.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Teuta Matoshi</span> Kosovo-Albanian fashion designer

Teuta Matoshi is a Kosovo-Albanian fashion designer. She is known for her whimsical style of high-end gowns.

Ben Reig (d.1968) was an American fashion businessman who ran his eponymous New York company from 1929 to 1968. The company closed in 1973.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Lukas, Paul (29 May 2012). "Permanent Record: How a Poor New York Girl Ended up Designing Mamie Eisenhower's Inaugural Gown". Slate. Retrieved 15 June 2022.
  2. 1 2 Milbank, Caroline Rennolds (1989). New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style. Abrams. pp. 125, 231. ISBN   978-0-8109-1388-2.
  3. Battelle, Phyllis (31 March 1953). "Nettie Rosenstein Showed Style Knowledge at Age 7". Cedar Rapids Gazette. p. 22.
  4. "Sleek Look Featured in New Collections". High Point Enterprise. 3 May 1959.
  5. "Untitled article". Mansfield News Journal. 7 May 1959.