Jammu dress

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The people of Jammu have the following traditional clothing:

Contents

Ghagra choli

It is traditional for women to wear ghagra choli and the scarf ensemble which was also popular in the Punjab. [1] It is still traditional for women to wear the kurta with a lehnga, [2] < as an alternative to the suthan and kurta.

Peshwaj

The traditional ghagra choli was then replaced by the peshwaj for women which flows to the ankles which would sometimes be worn with a suthan (very loose pants with many folds). [3] The men would wear the Jamma (Mughal style shirt) with the suthan.

Suthan and kurta

Men and boys wearing a variation of the suthan and Dogri kurta Dogri play Bawa Jitto directed by Balwant Thakur Produced in 1986 and still going strong.jpg
Men and boys wearing a variation of the suthan and Dogri kurta

The traditional dress for men and women is to wear the suthan and kurta but the styles are gender-specific.

Dogri suthan

The traditional Dogri suthan is wide at the top, roomy at the legs and has numerous pleats at the ankles. [4]

Modern suthan

Men of the Indian Army in Punjabi churidar suthans (1895 Punjab Hills) Men of the British Punjab army in suthans 1895 Punjab Hills. Churidar suthan.jpg
Men of the Indian Army in Punjabi churidar suthans (1895 Punjab Hills)

However, the modern style of suthan worn in Jammu is a remnant of the tight suthan which was once popular throughout the Punjab region. It is very loose at the top but is very tight from the knees to the ankles. [6] [7] [8] However, the style is now more popular in Jammu [9] and Himachal Pradesh [10] as the tight suthan is useful in the hills. [11] When worn by men, the drawers are called ghuttana and when worn by women, the suthan (in a variety of colours). [12] When the tight part of the suthan, up to the knees, has multiple close fitting folds, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants [13] or Dogri suthan, [14] in Jammu and churidar suthan in Himachal Pradesh. It is also worn in the hilly area of the Punjab region. [15] In Jammu, members of all communities wear the suthan. [16]

The traditional Dogri kurta for men is open at the front and flares out from the waist to the knees. The kurta for women tends to be long and cut straight, a style adopted from neighbouring Punjab, [1] as local culture shares an affinity with the Punjab region, [17] especially the southern area. [18]

Churidar pajama

The churidar pajama, also called churidar suthan, which forms part of the traditional attire of men and women in Punjab [19] is a combination of the tight suthan of the Punjab region and the traditional Dogri loose suthan. Accordingly, the churidar pajama is believed to be derived from the suthan. The Churidar [1] pajama is popular all over the sub-continent and was developed in the Punjab region, and is associated with the Punjab. [20] [1]

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Churidars, also churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in the Indian subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more quickly so that contours of the legs are revealed. They are usually cut on the bias, making them naturally stretchy, which is important when pants are closefitting. They are also longer than the leg and sometimes finish with a tightly fitting buttoned cuff at the ankle. The excess length falls into folds and appears like a set of bangles resting on the ankle. When the wearer is sitting, the extra material is the "ease" that makes it possible to bend the legs and sit comfortably. The word churidar is from Hindi and made its way into English only in the 20th century. Earlier, tight-fitting churidar-like pants worn in India were referred to by the British as Moghul breeches, long-drawers, or mosquito drawers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ghagra choli</span> Traditional clothing of women from Indian Subcontinent

Ghagra choli is a type of ethnic clothing for women from the Indian Subcontinent, notably in the Indian states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Haryana, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Jammu and Kashmir, as well as in the Pakistani provinces of Punjab and Sindh. In Punjab, the lehenga is traditionally worn with a kurti. It is a combination of the gagra or lehenga and the choli (blouse), however in contemporary and modern usage lehenga choli is the more popular and widely accepted term by fashion designers, trend setters, and boutiques in South Asia, since ghagra is synonymous with the half-slip (petticoat) worn as an undergarment below the sari.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Panjiri</span> Traditional Indian Ayurvedic sweet

Panjiri is a Ayurvedic sweet dish from the Indian subcontinent which is specially prepared for Krishna Janmashtami festival. The sweet panjiri evolved from an Ayurvedic preparation called Panchajīraka.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shalwar kameez</span> Trousers and tunic worn in South Asia

Shalwar kameez is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">North Indian culture</span> Culture of North India

North Indian Culture describes the cultural heritage of modern-day North India — the States of Punjab, Uttarakhand, Jammu & Kashmir, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, West Bengal, Jharkhand, Bihar Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra. North Indian culture reflects the diversity of traditions and customs of the vast region it encompasses. North Indian Culture is mainly in sanatana traditions and customs, with the assimilation of — and impact from — other cultures over long periods of history. North Indian culture reflects the diversity of traditions and customs of the vast region it encompasses.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi ghagra suit</span> Outfit worn by Women in Punjab, India

The Punjabi ghagra is a four-piece outfit known as tewar or 'ti-or' which was traditionally worn by Punjabi women throughout the Punjab region with the outfit comprising a head scarf (Phulkari), kurta or kurti, ghagra and either a suthan or the Punjabi salwar (trousers). In modern times, the ghagra is worn by women in parts of Haryana, rural parts of south West Punjab, parts of Himachal Pradesh and during performances of Giddha in East Punjab.

Salwar or Shalwar is cloth worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately. It is the lower-garment of the Shalwar kameez suit which is widely-worn in South Asia. It is known for its lively hues, rich fabrics, and embroidery. It is also the national dress of Pakistan, and since the later 1960s with the salwar being used in government offices in Pakistan. The outfit has been a part of Punjabi tradition for centuries. Salwar can be distinguished from the Punjabi suthan which is shorter than the salwar.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi Tamba and Kurta</span> Type of sarong and shirt, traditional costume in Punjab

Punjabi Kurta and Tamba are traditional costume for men of Punjab.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi clothing</span> Clothing style associated with people of the Punjab region

In the ancient Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length tops. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both male and female wore a dhoti around the waist. Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pheran</span> Kashmiri traditional dress

Pheran or Phiran is the traditional outfit for both males and females in Kashmir.

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Kurti top is an upper garment worn in the Indian subcontinent encompassing waistcoats, jackets and blouses.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chibhal</span>

Chibhal was an independent Kingdom founded by a cadet branch of the Katoch Rajputs of Kangra in 1400.

Jasrat was a 15th-century Punjabi chieftain who ruled in northern Punjab and Jammu. He is mainly known for leading a series of raids and invasions against Delhi Sultanate between 1421 and 1442, which had a far reaching influence in the history of region.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Himachali cap</span> Traditional headdress

Himachali cap is a distinctive headdress associated with Himachal Pradesh's culture. It is a part of the traditional dress of many Pahari inhabitants.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 Kumar, Raj (10 October 2023). Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. Gyan Publishing House. p. 352. ISBN   978-81-7835-577-1.
  2. Singh, K. S.; Pandita, K. N.; Charak, Sukh Dev Singh; Rizvi, Baqr Raza (2003). Anthropological Survey of India. Jammu & Kashmir. ISBN   978-81-7304-118-1.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  3. Handa, O. Textiles, Costumes and Ornaments of the Western Himalayas.
  4. Kumar, Raj (2006). Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. Gyan Publishing House. p. 163. ISBN   978-81-7835-577-1.
  5. Gore, Frederick St. John. (1895) Lights & Shades of Hill Life in the Afghan and Hindu Highlands of Punjab. A contrast ... With maps and illustrations, etc
  6. Letters from India and Kashmir (1874)
  7. Kumar Suresh Singh, K. N. Pandita, Sukh Dev Singh Charak, Baqr Raza Rizvi. Anthropological Survey of India (2003) Jammu and Kashmir
  8. Sukh Dev Singh Charak (1983) the Jammu Kingdom, Part 1
  9. Bamzai, P. N. K. (1994) Culture and Political History of Kashmir, Volume
  10. Kumar Suresh Singh, B. R. Sharma, Anthropological Survey of India, A. R. Sankhyan (1996) Himachal Pradesh
  11. Charak, Sukh Dev Singh (1983) Himachal Pradesh, Volume 4
  12. Saraf, D.N. (1987) Arts and Crafts, Jammu and Kashmir: Land, People, Culture
  13. Banerjee, Sanhati. The Rockstar Dhoti (15.01.2012) Archived 3 June 2013 at the Wayback Machine
  14. Kumar, Ritu (2006) Costumes and textiles of royal India
  15. GORE, Frederick St. John. (1895) Lights & Shades of Hill Life in the Afghan and Hindu Highlands of the Punjab. A contrast ... With maps and illustrations, etc
  16. Sarfi, Maqsooda (2004 Japan From The Eyes Of An Indian Girl
  17. Betts, Vanessa and McCulloch, Victoria (2014) Indian Himalaya Footprint Handbook: Includes Corbett National Park, Darjeeling, Leh, Sikkim
  18. Biswas, Arabinda 1985) Indian Costumes [a dress of the Dogras in Jammu is greatly influenced by the sartorial ensemble of the State of Punjab.
  19. Kehal, Harkesh Singh. Alop ho riha Punjabi Virsa. Unistar Books PVT Ltd ISBN   978-93-5017-532-3
  20. Shukla, Pravina (2013). The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India. Indiana University Press. ISBN   978-0-253-34911-8.