Lynda Grose

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Lynda Grose
Education Kingston University, London, UK
Known forSustainable Fashion/Design

Lynda Grose is a designer in fashion and sustainability, educator, and consultant known for her pioneering work in sustainable fashion design. [1]

Contents

Career

In 1990 Grose co-founded Esprit's e-collection division, a five-year research and development project marketed in 13 countries, which is cited "as the first ecologically responsible clothing line developed by a major corporation" and in doing so, Grose "set pioneering standards for the textile industry". [2] Her Ecollection was founded in response to Esprit's company-wide focus on environmental awareness, begun by Esprit co-founder Doug Tompkins. Grose's project began by researching the environmental impact of making Esprit clothing - from growing fibers, to dyeing, manufacturing and garment finishing. [3] The Ecollection used organic cotton, and less toxic dyes as a first step. Grose also began contracting with crafts cooperatives to hand-knit sweaters and make buttons and jewelry from tagua nuts. Grose believed that community development and fair treatment of textile workers was as important a part of the project as using more sustainable materials. [4]

In 2018, Grose co-founded the Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion [5] with Kate Fletcher, Otto von Busch, Timo Rissanen and Mathilda Tham. UCRF is a self-funded, fully independent global community of over 200 researchers and fashion practitioners working for systems change in the fashion sector. Grose is Professor in Fashion Design and Critical Studies at California College of the Arts. She is a founding member of The Center for Sustainable Design, Surrey, England, [6] and the International Society for Sustainable Design, [7] and the Sustainable Cotton Project. [8] [9]

Work

Lynda Grose co-authored with Dr. Kate Fletcher the book Fashion and Sustainability Design for Change. [10] She has published in journals and magazines and has contributed to 'Opening up the Wardrobe: a methods book' (Novus), 'Fashion Fibers: Designing for Sustainability', (Bloomsbury), 'The Routledge Handbook on Sustainable Fashion (Routledge), Sustainable Textiles: Life Cycle and Environmental Impact (Woodhouse Publishing, London), and Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles: Values, Design, Production and Consumption (Greenleaf Publishing).

Awards and nominations

In 2007, she was listed on Grist's list of “15 Green Fashionistas". [11]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile</span> Various fiber-based materials

Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile arts</span> Form of arts and crafts using fibers

Textile arts are arts and crafts that use plant, animal, or synthetic fibers to construct practical or decorative objects.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Spandex</span> Synthetic fibre known for its elasticity

Spandex, Lycra, or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is a polyether-polyurea copolymer that was invented in 1958 by chemist Joseph Shivers at DuPont.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wearable art</span> Designed pieces of clothing or jewelry created as fine or expressive art

Wearable art, also known as Artwear or "art to wear", refers to art pieces in the shape of clothing or jewellery pieces. These pieces are usually handmade, and are produced only once or as a very limited series. Pieces of clothing are often made with fibrous materials and traditional techniques such as crochet, knitting, quilting, but may also include plastic sheeting, metals, paper, and more. While the making of any article of clothing or other wearable object typically involves aesthetic considerations, the term wearable art implies that the work is intended to be accepted as an artistic creation or statement. Wearable art is meant to draw attention while it is being displayed, modeled or used in performances. Pieces may be sold and exhibited.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dyeing</span> Process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics

Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. Dye molecules are fixed to the fiber by absorption, diffusion, or bonding with temperature and time being key controlling factors. The bond between dye molecule and fiber may be strong or weak, depending on the dye used. Dyeing and printing are different applications; in printing, color is applied to a localized area with desired patterns. In dyeing, it is applied to the entire textile.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile design</span> Creation of designs for the manufacturing of woven, knitted or printed fabrics

Textile geometry is the creative and technical process by which thread or yarn fibers are woven together or interlaced to form a flexible, functional, and decorative cloth or fabric which is subsequently printed upon or otherwise adorned. Textile design is further broken down into three major disciplines, printed textile design, woven textile design, and mixed media textile design, each of which use different methods to produce a surface ornamented fabric for variable uses and markets. Textile Design as a practice has evolved to become an industry integral to other disciplines such as fashion, interior design, and fine arts.

Maya textiles (k’apak) are the clothing and other textile arts of the Maya peoples, indigenous peoples of the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Belize. Women have traditionally created textiles in Maya society, and textiles were a significant form of ancient Maya art and religious beliefs. They were considered a prestige good that would distinguish the commoners from the elite. According to Brumfiel, some of the earliest weaving found in Mesoamerica can date back to around 1000-800 B.C.E.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of clothing and textiles</span> Study of fashion and clothing by period in time

The study of the history of clothing and textiles traces the development, use, and availability of clothing and textiles over human history. Clothing and textiles reflect the materials and technologies available in different civilizations at different times. The variety and distribution of clothing and textiles within a society reveal social customs and culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile recycling</span> Method of reusing or reprocessing used clothing, fibrous material and rags

Textile recycling is the process of recovering fiber, yarn, or fabric and reprocessing the material into new, useful products. Textile waste is split into pre-consumer and post-consumer waste and is sorted into five different categories derived from a pyramid model. Textiles can be either reused or mechanically/chemically recycled.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sustainable fashion</span> Part of design philosophy and trend of sustainability in fashion

Sustainable fashion is a term describing products, processes, activities, and people that aim to achieve a carbon-neutral fashion industry built on equality, social justice, animal welfare, and ecological integrity. Sustainable fashion concerns more than fashion textiles or products, rather addressing the entire process in which clothing is produced, consumed and disposed of. The movement looks to combat the large carbon footprint that the fast fashion industry has created by reducing the environmental impact such as air pollution, water pollution and climate change.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bamboo textile</span> Textile made from various parts of the bamboo plant

Bamboo textile is any cloth, yarn or clothing made from bamboo fibres. While historically used only for structural elements, such as bustles and the ribs of corsets, in recent years different technologies have been developed that allow bamboo fibre to be used for a wide range of textile and fashion applications.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Toyobo</span> Japanese manufacturers of fibres and textiles

Toyobo Co., Ltd. is one of Japan's top makers of fibers and textiles, including synthetic fibers and natural fibers, such as cotton and wool.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Suzanne Lee</span> American fashion designer

Suzanne Lee is a Brooklyn, New York based fashion designer working on fashion and future technologies.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cotton recycling</span>

Cotton recycling is the process of converting cotton fabric into fibers that can be reused into other textile products.

Clothing industry or garment industry summarizes the types of trade and industry along the production and value chain of clothing and garments, starting with the textile industry, embellishment using embroidery, via the fashion industry to apparel retailers up to trade with second-hand clothes and textile recycling. The producing sectors build upon a wealth of clothing technology some of which, like the loom, the cotton gin, and the sewing machine heralded industrialization not only of the previous textile manufacturing practices. Clothing industries are also known as allied industries, fashion industries, garment industries, or soft goods industries.

Green textiles are fabrics or fibres produced to replace environmentally harmful textiles and minimise the ecological impact. Green textiles are part of the sustainable fashion and eco-friendly trends, providing alternatives to the otherwise pollution-heavy products of conventional textile industry, which is deemed the most ecologically damaging industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Environmental impact of fashion</span>

The fashion industry, particularly manufacture and use of apparel and footwear, is a significant driver of greenhouse gas emissions and plastic pollution. The rapid growth of fast fashion has led to around 80 billion items of clothing being consumed annually, with a large number going to landfill.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bananatex</span> A biodegradable fabric made from Abacá banana plant fibres

Bananatex is a natural cellulosic biodegradable "technical" canvas fabric made of Abacá banana plant fibres. The plants are grown in the Philippines as part of a sustainable forestry project in Catanduanes. Bananatex was developed and is distributed by the Swiss canvas goods company QWSTION and is used in the company's own products as well as in other companies' manufactured goods. Bananatex was developed to have better wear characteristics than cotton while being more sustainable. It is less durable than synthetics like Cordura, and can biodegrade. Bananatex is sold in a range of colours and is available with or without a natural beeswax waterproof coating.

Recover Textile Systems, mainly known as Recover™, is a materials science company and producer of mechanically recycled cotton fiber and recycled cotton fiber blends, created in 2020 with its headquarters in Banyeres de Mariola, Spain.

Cold pad batch (CPB) is a method of dyeing textiles, typically cellulosic fibers such as cotton, in which the textile is impregnated with dye in a cold state, rather than being heated. High dye fixation and no thermal energy are the advantages of the CPB process. CPB-dyed fabrics are less expensive, have a softer hand feel, and have a cleaner surface than exhaust dyed materials. The process may take up to 12 hours in the batching process, depending on the depth of the shade. The disadvantage is that batching is a time-consuming and lengthy process. The process was developed in 1960.

References

  1. "Fashion and Sustainability: Design for Change". Textile Arts Council.
  2. "Sustainable Design". Textile Arts Council, Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. Retrieved March 11, 2017.
  3. Spindler, Amy M. (April 13, 1993). "Patterns". The New York Times. p. B9. Retrieved July 14, 2023.
  4. Moed, Andrea (October 1994). "Dress versus excess". Metropolis. 14: 73–78.
  5. "UCRF – Concerned Researchers in Fashion". UCRF – Concerned Researchers in Fashion. Retrieved April 4, 2023.
  6. "Sustainable Innovation, Sustainable Design, Eco-innovation". The Centre for Sustainable Design. Retrieved March 16, 2017.
  7. "Centre for Sustainable Design | The International Society for Ecological Economics". www.isecoeco.org. Retrieved March 16, 2017.
  8. "Sustainable Cotton Project | ABOUT US". www.sustainablecotton.org. Retrieved March 16, 2017.
  9. "Lynda Grose | California College of the Arts". www.cca.edu. Retrieved March 28, 2017.
  10. "Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change". www.laurenceking.com. Retrieved March 28, 2017.
  11. "15 Green Fashionistas". Grist. August 10, 2007. Retrieved March 16, 2017.