Pablo Manzoni is an Italian make-up artist who, as Pablo of Elizabeth Arden , was awarded the Coty Award in 1965 for leadership in cosmetics. [1]
Manzoni was born around 1940 in Italy, the son of Count Zappi-Manzoni, a surgeon. [2] [3] [4] He is technically Count Pablo Manzoni, although has stated in 1985 that he does not use his title. [3]
At the age of 17, Manzoni persuaded the Elizabeth Arden salon in Rome to employ him, despite his lack of experience. [3] Whilst there, he worked with clients such as Sophia Loren, for whom he used his trademark eyebrow-bleaching technique to enhance her eyes. [2] Another early Manzoni trademark was the use of false eyelashes. [2] At 24, Manzoni relocated to Manhattan, New York, where from 1964 to 1979, known only as "Pablo," he was creative director for Elizabeth Arden. [2] [3] In 1965, his eye-makeup techniques were so influential that he was awarded the Coty Award in recognition for launching a worldwide style. [1] As a leader in the field of fashionable, elaborate eye-makeup, Pablo was extremely popular with fashion editors and society women during the 1960s. [5] Manzoni stated in 1966 that the jewel-studded or flower-decorated eyes he created for the fashion press were intended to inspire the reader, rather than to be exactly copied. [6] Despite this, he had clients asking him to reproduce the designs for actual wear. [4] In 2011 Manzoni expanded on this, explaining that the "festive eyes" he created for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar were intended for shock value and publicity purposes, but that when at work he created subtle make-up for clients. [4] [7]
In 1979 Manzoni left Elizabeth Arden to embark upon a solo career, for which he reclaimed his surname. [3] By 1985, as well as dealing with private clients, Manzoni was working as a make-up consultant for Neiman Marcus. [3] In 1990, he was Creative Director for the La Prairie cosmetics line. [8]
Florence Nightingale Graham, who went by the business name Elizabeth Arden, was a Canadian-American businesswoman who founded what is now Elizabeth Arden, Inc., and built a cosmetics empire in the United States. By 1929, she owned 150 salons in Europe and the United States. Her 1,000 products were being sold in 22 countries. She was the sole owner, and at the peak of her career, she was one of the wealthiest women in the world.
Rudolf "Rudi" Gernreich was an Austrian-born American fashion designer whose avant-garde clothing designs are generally regarded as the most innovative and dynamic fashion of the 1960s. He purposefully used fashion design as a social statement to advance sexual freedom, producing clothes that followed the natural form of the female body, freeing them from the constraints of high fashion.
Robert Lee Morris is an American jewelry designer and sculptor, who attributes much of his inspiration to organic forms he admires in nature and to designing for an imaginary futuristic society. His designs have been made in gold, silver and bronze and he is known for his 24 carat matte gold plating and rich deep red copper and green patina. He has collaborated or designed collections for fashion designers Geoffrey Beene, Kansai Yamamoto, Calvin Klein, Anne Klein, Karl Lagerfeld, Michael Kors and Donna Karan. Morris was awarded the Coty Award (1981) and the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award by the CFDA Awards (2007).
Jean Despres (1903–1988) was a perfume industry businessman, known for his work with Coty, Inc.
Helena Rubinstein was a Polish-American businesswoman, art collector, and philanthropist. A cosmetics entrepreneur, she was the founder and eponym of Helena Rubinstein Incorporated cosmetics company, which made her one of the world's richest women.
Coty Inc. is an American multinational beauty company founded in 1904 by François Coty. With its subsidiaries, it develops, manufactures, markets, and distributes fragrances, cosmetics, skin care, nail care, and both professional and retail hair care products. Coty owns around 77 brands as of 2018.
The Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards were created in 1942 by the cosmetics and perfume company Coty, Inc. to promote and celebrate American fashion, and encourage design during the Second World War. In 1985, the Coty Awards were discontinued with the last presentation of the awards in September 1984; the CFDA Awards fulfill a similar role. It was casually referred to as "fashion's Oscars" because it once held great importance within the fashion industry and the award ceremonies were glitzy galas.
Way Bandy was an American make-up artist. During the 1970s, Bandy became one of the most well known and highest paid make-up artists in the fashion industry. Photographer and frequent collaborator Francesco Scavullo called Bandy "one of the great makeup artists of our time."
Count Ferdinando Sarmi was an Italian-born American fashion designer and businessman. He headed the Sarmi fashion design house in New York City.
The history of cosmetics spans at least 7,000 years and is present in almost every society on earth. Cosmetic body art is argued to have been the earliest form of a ritual in human culture. The evidence for this comes in the form of utilised red mineral pigments including crayons associated with the emergence of Homo sapiens in Africa.
Kylie Kristen Jenner is an American media personality, socialite, model, and businesswoman. She has starred in the E! reality television series Keeping Up with the Kardashians since 2007 and is the founder and owner of cosmetic company Kylie Cosmetics.
The Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion was a yearly award created in 1938 by Carrie Marcus Neiman and Stanley Marcus. Unlike the Coty Award, it was not limited to American-based fashion designers. Recipients of the Neiman Marcus Awards include couturiers, non-American-based designers, journalists, manufacturers, and celebrities and style icons who had had a significant personal influence upon fashion such as Grace Kelly and Grace Mirabella. The award was typically presented to multiple recipients each year, rather than to a single individual, although Adrian Adolph Greenburg was the sole winner in 1943, a feat repeated in 1957 by Coco Chanel. From 1969 the awards became increasingly intermittent, with ceremonies held in 1973, 1979, 1980, 1984 and 1995, the last year in which the awards were presented. For the final ceremony, the founder, Stanley Marcus, received one of his own awards.
KraftWorks is an advertising agency located in New York City. KraftWorks was founded by Neil Kraft in 2000 after leaving the agency Frierson Mee & Kraft. According to the agency's website, KraftWorks' clients have included Playtex, Aldo, Joseph Abboud, and others.
Jane Trahey was an American businesswoman and writer. She is best known as one of the pioneers of advertising during the 1960s. She was one of the first women to own and manage an advertising agency. After graduating from Mundelein College in 1943, she worked for Neiman-Marcus in Dallas in 1947 as a copywriter. In 1956, Trahey moved to New York where she founded the 425 Advertising Associates for Julius Kayser Inc. as their in-house agency. Two years later she opened her own agency, Jane Trahey Associates, but in 1978 she left to become a consultant.
Zoran Ladicorbic, known as Zoran, is an American fashion designer who launched his business in 1976. He is particularly known for extremely minimalist, understated garments following the American sportswear principle, in neutral colors and high quality natural fabrics such as silk, linen and cashmere wool. His clothes have been described as "Gap for the very rich", and as "revolutionary" due to being designed without "built-in obsolescence".
Alexander "Omar" Kiam was an American fashion designer and costume designer.
Monte-Sano & Pruzan was a highly regarded New York fashion house specialising in women's tailoring, founded in 1915 by Vincent Monte-Sano senior, who was later joined by Max Pruzan. The company was liquidated in 1969.
Adolfo Sardiña, professionally known as Adolfo, is a Cuban-born American fashion designer who started out as a milliner in the 1950s. While chief designer for the wholesale milliners Emme, he won the Coty Award and the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. In 1963 he set up his own salon in New York, firstly as a milliner, and then focusing on clothing. He retired from fashion design in 1993.
Emily Wilkens (1917-2000) was an American fashion designer specialising in childrenswear. She won both the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award and the Coty Award for her work, which was considered groundbreaking for properly taking note of the requirements of teenage dressing, and not simply offering miniature grown-up garments. She was also an author, writing a number of books on self care and style, and during the late 1960s and early 1970s, became a beauty journalist, writing an advice column. She died in 2000.
Victor Joris (1929–2013) was an American fashion designer and fashion illustrator. He was active between 1945 until the 1970s.