Perfumes: The Guide is part of a series of books cataloguing major perfumes, written by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.
Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez co-authored The Guide. The couple are married; he is a biophysicist and she is a perfume critic. [1]
In 2008, Turin and Sanchez published Perfumes: The Guide. [2] It began with introductory chapters on the basics of perfumery and then reviewed more than a thousand perfumes, giving a rating of one to five stars and a brief critical review, signed either LT or TS. These ranged from a single word (Sanchez on Lanvin Rumeur: "Baseless") to a few paragraphs. [1] [3]
In 2009, they published a paperback edition, titled Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, that made some expansions, adding 451 new reviews and new Top 10 lists. [4]
In 2018, Turin and Sanchez released a new volume, Perfumes: The Guide 2018, covering 1200 fragrances that had been released in the 10 years since the first book. [2] In 2019, they reissued Perfumes: The A-Z Guide.
The Guide received a starred review in Publishers Weekly , which said, “The book brings [the authors'] exquisite connoisseurship to life in a contagious manner. Their passion for a few scents and their outrage at the others' failings make for entry after entry of hilarious, catty comments interspersed with occasional erudite, eloquent disquisitions." [5] Other reviewers echoed the praise for the book’s prose. In The Guardian , Hermione Hoby wrote, “Convincing the reader that perfume-making is an art form is easy for these authors: the real joy of this husband and wife's dazzlingly comprehensive compendium is in its case for perfume criticism as the even greater art." [6] Likewise in Maclean's , Anne Kingston wrote, "Perfumes' metaphorically brilliant descriptors often qualify as art themselves." [3] In The New Yorker , John Lancaster wrote that the authors "offer vivid, funny, evocative descriptions of the smells they write about…To enjoy "Perfumes," you don't need to know, or even to like, perfumes, such is the brio of Turin's and Sanchez's prose." [1]
Luca Turin is a biophysicist and writer with a long-standing interest in bioelectronics, the sense of smell, perfumery, and the fragrance industry.
Edmond Roudnitska (1905–1996) was a French master perfumer and author. He is known for creating perfumes such as Dior's Eau Sauvage and Diorissimo, and Rochas's Femme. Many of his creations are still in production. He was the father of perfumer Michel Roudnitska.
Olivia Giacobetti is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined style as well as innovation such as her novel use of fig in perfumery, popularizing the note beginning in the mid-1990s. She is among the perfumers who became prominent in a late-20th and early-21st-century turn toward the "nose" behind the scent and independent lines that foreground these creators, a shift away from perfumes sold by fashion labels or celebrities in other fields.
Bertrand Duchaufour is a French perfumer. He has had a prolific career, beginning in Grasse at Lautier Florasynth and continuing for a number of fragragrance firms as well as working independently and as the house perfumer for L'Artisan Parfumeur. He has drawn praise for niche perfume creations as well as mainstream hits.
Joy is a perfume created for Parisian couturier Jean Patou by perfumer Henri Alméras in 1929. It is considered to be one of the greatest fragrances created and is a landmark example of the floral genre in perfumery. It is no longer produced.
Avery Gilbert is a self-described "smell scientist" and "sensory psychologist".
Calice Asancheyev-Becker is a French master perfumer and director of Givaudan Perfumery School. As of 2018 she was president of the International Society of Perfume Creators.
Christophe Laudamiel is a French perfumer, chemist, writer and model. He is co-founder and Master Perfumer of DreamAir creative studios in New York City, where he currently resides. In 2019 he was named Chief Perfumer to BélAir Lab in Tokyo: a perfume composition and technology studio newly managed by Rohto Pharmaceuticals. He is a founder and president of the non-profit Academy of Perfumery and Aromatics.
The Osmothèque is the world's largest scent archive, a leading international research institution tracing the history of perfumery, based in Versailles with conference centers in New York City and Paris. Founded in 1990 by Jean Kerléo and other senior perfumers including Jean-Claude Ellena and Guy Robert, the Osmothèque is internationally responsible for the authentication, registration, preservation, documentation and reproduction of thousands of perfumes gathered from the past two millennia, archived at the Osmothèque repository and consultable by the public.
J'adore is a perfume for women that was created in 1999 by French master perfumer Calice Becker for Parfums Christian Dior, with a distinct tear-drop bottle shape designed by Hervé Van der Straeten. The first face of the brand was Estonian model Carmen Kass. Later she was replaced by Tiiu Kuik, and she was replaced by actress Charlize Theron from 2004 to 2024. In June 2024, Barbadian singer and businesswoman Rihanna was announced as the new face of the perfume, replacing Theron after her 20 year run as the spokeswoman of the fragrance. Some perfume critics have detected a change in the recipe since the 1999 launch.
Rive Gauche is a women's perfume launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 1971.
Jicky is a perfume originally created by Aimé Guerlain in 1889 for French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain. Introduced in 1889, it is the oldest continuously-produced perfume in the world.
The Art and Olfaction Awards are a non-profit award mechanism designed to celebrate excellence in international artisan, experimental and independent perfumery and olfactory art through a yearly blind-judged competition.
Lovely is a 2005 perfume released by Sarah Jessica Parker. Parker’s first fragrance, Lovely is a light floral musk based on a blend Parker had made for herself. The perfume’s formal development was the subject of a 2008 book by New York Times perfume critic Chandler Burr called The Perfect Scent: A Year Behind the Scenes of the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York.
Ormonde Jayne is a London-based niche perfume house founded by Linda Pilkington in 2000. Begun as a line of scented candles, the house now makes perfumes as well. The perfumes are created by Pilkington and Geza Schoen.
Alberto Morillas is a Spanish perfumer. He is a master perfumer at Swiss fragrance and flavor firm dsm-firmenich, where his notable creations have included Calvin Klein CK One, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò and Marc Jacobs Daisy. He has an independent line called Mizensir.
Niche perfume is an alternative to mass perfume production. Niche is limited by the clientele and therefore with a limited sale range, thus the goal of niche houses is not to sell as much as possible. These companies are generally smaller than the major fragrance firms like Coty Inc., Puig, and Firmenich, but bigger than "indie perfume" lines that are generally owned and operated by the perfumer themselves. A private perfumer can also be contracted by independent brands to develop a niche perfume collection. Especially since the 2010s, however, the distinction has blurred as more and more niche perfume brands have been purchased by a larger parent corporation.
Aedes de Venustas is a niche perfume store and fragrance line. Aedes has operated in Manhattan since 1995. The house perfume line launched in 2012, although there was an earlier collaboration with L'Artisan Parfumeur creating a home fragrance (2005) and perfume (2008) also named Aedes de Venustas.
Fracas is a 1948 perfume created by French perfumer Germaine Cellier for French fashion designer Robert Piguet. It is based on the scent of tuberose, a pungent small white flower. A landmark fragrance, it has spawned many imitators and as of 2024 has been in production for over 75 years.