Fragrance wheel

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The Fragrance Wheel, ver. 1983 Wheel2.gif
The Fragrance Wheel, ver. 1983

A fragrance wheel , also known as aroma wheel, fragrance circle, perfume wheel or smell wheel, is a circular diagram showing the inferred relationships among olfactory groups based upon similarities and differences in their odor. The groups bordering one another are implied to share common olfactory characteristics. Fragrance wheel is frequently used as a classification tool in oenology and perfumery.

Contents

The first example of a fragrance wheel was conceived by Austrian perfumer Paul Jellinek and titled the Odor Effects Diagram, published in the original German edition of his book The Practice of Modern Perfumery (1949). [1] Other notable versions include the Fragrance Circle, developed in 1979 by U. Harder at Haarman & Reimer, the Wine Aroma Wheel, from 1984 by sensory chemist Ann C. Noble, and the Fragrance Wheel, created in 1992 by perfumery taxonomist Michael Edwards. [2] [3] [4]

Fragrance Families and Personality

Various suggestions have been put forth about the relationship between a person's favorite scent family and their personality. Stephen V. Dowthwaite, founder of PerfumersWorld, claimed that "Our choices in perfume are influenced by [...] the image we want to portray." According to Dowthwaite, very feminine personalities gravitate toward Florals family while very masculine personalities prefer the Woody family. Young people tend to like fruity, creamy, and vanilla scents, young adults prefer citrus and metallic scents, and mature adults enjoy heavy white flowers and Chypres. Elegant, sophisticated personalities enjoy aldehydes, powdery notes and leathers, while earthy, practical personalities prefer tobacco, spice and green notes. [5]

In addition to the preferences of Florals vs Woody, some have stated that Femmes may have a slight preference towards Fresh family while Mascs may have a slight preference towards Amber family.

Michael Edwards's Fragrance Wheel

Developed by a perfume expert to help retailers and consumers, Edwards's wheel consists of a primary scent family (Woody, Floral, Amber, Fresh.), divided into subfamilies (Floral Amber, Soft Amber, Aromatic, Citrus) . Many of the subfamilies were in turn again divided into Fresh, Crisp, Classical, and Richcomposition gradings. Prior to 2010 Fougère group was placed at the center of this wheel. [6]

In this classification scheme, Chanel No.5, which is traditionally classified as a "Floral Aldehyde" would be located under Soft Floral sub-group, and "Amber" scents would be placed within the Oriental group. As a class, Chypres are more difficult to place since they would be located under parts of the Oriental and Woody families. For instance, Guerlain Mitsouko, which is classically identified as a chypre will be placed under Mossy Woods, but Hermès Rouge, a chypre with more floral character, would be placed under Floral Oriental. Originally they are:


1983 version
FougèreFloralFloral
Soft Floral
Floral Oriental
OrientalSoft Oriental
Oriental
Woody Oriental
WoodyMossy Woods
Dry Woods
FreshCitrus
Green
Water


With the publication of Fragrances of the World 2008, two new sub-groups: Woods and Fruity, have been added to the wheel. [7]

2008 version [6]
FougèreFloralFloral
Soft Floral
Floral Oriental
OrientalSoft Oriental
Oriental
Woody Oriental
WoodyWoods
Mossy Woods
Dry Woods
FreshCitrus
Fruity
Green
Water

The chart was again modified in 2010, moving the Aromatics section to in between Dry Woods and Citrus to synchronize the chart [8] with recent studies on smell perception. [9] [10] The groupings are rough, and overlapped according to different sources. [11] [12] [13] [14] This chart aims to synthesize those groupings into an organized structural format. There are examples provided for each subfamily for what the scents are similar to.

2010 version [15] [16] [17]
FamiliesSubfamiliesExamples [18] [19] [20]
FloralFloralFresh cut; flowers
Soft FloralAldehydes; powdery notes
Floral AmberOrange blossom; sweet spices
Amber

(or previously Oriental) [21]

Soft AmberIncense; amber
AmberOriental; resins
Woody AmberSandalwood; Patchouli
WoodyWoodsAromatic woods; vetiver
Mossy WoodsOakmoss; amber
Dry WoodsDry woods; leather
FreshAromaticLavender; aromatic herbs
CitrusBergamot; citrus oils
WaterMarine; aquatic notes
GreenGalbanum; green notes
FruityBerries; fruits


See also

Related Research Articles

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. Perfumes can be defined as substances that emit and diffuse a pleasant and fragrant odor. They consist of manmade mixtures of aromatic chemicals and essential oils. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Musk</span> Class of aromatic substances used in perfumes

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. Musk was a name originally given to a substance with a strong odor obtained from a gland of the musk deer. The substance has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times and is one of the most expensive animal products in the world. The name originates from the Late Greek μόσχος 'moskhos', from Persian mushk and Sanskrit मुष्क muṣka derived from Proto-Indo-European noun múh₂s meaning "mouse". The deer gland was thought to resemble a scrotum. It is applied to various plants and animals of similar smell and has come to encompass a wide variety of aromatic substances with similar odors, despite their often differing chemical structures and molecular shapes.

<i>Cananga odorata</i> Species of tree

Cananga odorata, known as ylang-ylang or cananga tree, is a tropical tree that is native to the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia, New Guinea, the Solomon Islands, and Queensland, Australia. It is also native to parts of Thailand and Vietnam. It is valued for the essential oils extracted from its flowers, which has a strong floral fragrance. Ylang-ylang is one of the most extensively used natural materials in the perfume industry, earning it the name "Queen of Perfumes".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aroma compound</span> Chemical compound that has a smell or odor

An aroma compound, also known as an odorant, aroma, fragrance or flavoring, is a chemical compound that has a smell or odor. For an individual chemical or class of chemical compounds to impart a smell or fragrance, it must be sufficiently volatile for transmission via the air to the olfactory system in the upper part of the nose. As examples, various fragrant fruits have diverse aroma compounds, particularly strawberries which are commercially cultivated to have appealing aromas, and contain several hundred aroma compounds.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Neroli</span> Essential oil of the bitter orange blossom

Neroli oil is an essential oil produced from the blossom of the bitter orange tree. Its scent is sweet, honeyed and somewhat metallic with green and spicy facets. Orange blossom is also extracted from the same blossom and both extracts are extensively used in perfumery. Orange blossom can be described as smelling sweeter, warmer and more floral than neroli. The difference between how neroli and orange blossom smell and why they are referred to with different names, is a result of the process of extraction that is used to obtain the oil from the blooms. Neroli is extracted by steam distillation and orange blossom is extracted via a process of enfleurage or solvent extraction.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Galbanum</span>

Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin and a product of certain umbelliferous Persian plant species in the genus Ferula, chiefly Ferula gummosa and Ferula rubricaulis. Galbanum-yielding plants grow plentifully on the slopes of the mountain ranges of northern Iran. It occurs usually in hard or soft, irregular, more or less translucent and shining lumps, or occasionally in separate tears, of a light-brown, yellowish or greenish-yellow colour. Galbanum has a disagreeable, bitter taste, a peculiar, a somewhat musky odour, and an intense green scent. With a specific gravity of 1.212, it contains about 8% terpenes; about 65% of a resin which contains sulfur; about 20% gum; and a very small quantity of the colorless crystalline substance umbelliferone. It also contains α-pinene, β-pinene, limonene, cadinene, 3-carene, and ocimene.

Chypre is the name of a family of perfumes that are characterised by an accord composed of citrus top notes, a middle centered on cistus labdanum, and a mossy-animalic set of basenotes derived from oakmoss. Chypre perfumes fall into numerous classes according to their modifier notes, which include but are not limited to leather, florals, fruits, and amber.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of perfume</span>

The word perfume is used today to describe scented mixtures and is derived from the Latin word, "per fumus," meaning through smoke. The word perfumery refers to the art of making perfumes. Perfume was refined by the Romans, the Persians and the Arabs. Although perfume and perfumery also existed in East Asia, much of its fragrances were incense based. The basic ingredients and methods of making perfumes are described by Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eau de toilette</span> Lightly scented perfume

Eau de toilette is a lightly scented perfume. It is also referred to as aromatic waters and has a high alcohol content. It is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving. It is traditionally composed of alcohol and various volatile oils. Traditionally these products were named after a principal ingredient; some being geranium water, lavender water, lilac water, violet water, spirit of myrcia and 'eau de Bretfeld'. Because of this, eau de toilette was sometimes referred to as "toilet water".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Henri Alméras</span>

Henri Alméras was a French perfumer, author, and painter.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paul Parquet</span> French perfumer (1856-1916)

Paul Parquet (1856–1916) was a French perfumer and joint owner of Houbigant. Called the "greatest perfumer of his time" by Ernest Beaux, he is widely regarded as the founder of modern perfumery for having pioneered the use of synthetics in works such as Fougère Royale. His bestselling perfume, Le Parfum Idéal, was described by Robert Bienaimé as a “masterpiece of fragrant equilibrium, harmonious and of good taste as shall never be surpassed”.

Celine Dion Parfums is a brand line of celebrity-endorsed perfumes by Canadian singer Celine Dion and Coty, with global retail sales of more than $850 million by March 2010. As of 2011, there have been 14 perfumes that have been released. A new fragrance called Signature, was released in September 2011.

Light Blue is a fragrance line by Italian fashion designers Dolce & Gabbana which was launched in 2001 and has won numerous fragrance-industry awards. The men's version was released in 2007 and has also won awards, including the FiFi Awards in 2008.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">S by Shakira</span> Perfume by Shakira

S by Shakira is the first woman's fragrance by Colombian singer songwriter Shakira. Developing an interest in perfumery and scents, Shakira signed an agreement with international fashion company Puig to create a line of beauty and personal care products. S by Shakira is an amber perfume which combines scents of various exotic sources like sambac jasmine, sandalwood, and vanilla. The bottle of the perfume is made of treated glass which reflects light at different angles; it does not have a cap and instead utilises a key-like mechanism to stop the flow of the perfume. Shakira launched S by Shakira at a press release in Madrid, Spain, in June 2010, and it was sent to retail stores in September 2010. Critics praised the scent of S by Shakira, but there was criticism regarding the design of the bottle. It was nominated for a FiFi Award in 2011.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Krasnaya Moskva</span>

Krasnaya Moskva was the first Soviet-created perfume.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Elixir (perfume)</span> Womens fragrance by Colombian singer Shakira

Elixir is a women's fragrance by Colombian singer songwriter Shakira, developed in a collaboration with international fashion company Puig. After the release of her first two fragrances, Puig enlisted several perfumers to work on Shakira's third fragrance, which she claimed would capture her "most sensual and exotic side." The final product was Elixir, an amber perfume based on various spicy and woody sources. The flacon of the perfume is inspired by apothecary bottles and is made to resemble a magical potion, featuring a light golden colour scheme.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stephen Dowthwaite</span>

Stephen V. Dowthwaite is an English perfumer, perfumery educator, programmer and writer. He is the founder of PerfumersWorld, a resource for professional perfumers. He is known for developing The ABC's of Perfumery, a comprehensive system of odour classification and perfume creation, and a training course in The Art and Technology of Perfumery.

Sillage in perfume refers to the trail created by a perfume when it is worn on the skin. It comes from the word in French for "wake" and can best be described as how a fragrance diffuses behind the wearer as they move. A fragrance does not need to be a heavy one to have a large sillage.

References

  1. Jellinek, P. (1949) Praktikum des Modernen Parfümeurs, Vienna
  2. Harder, U. (1979). Der H&R duftkreis. Haarmann & Reimer, Contact, 23, 18-27.
  3. Noble, A.C., Arnold, R.A., Masuda, S.D., Pecore, J.O. Schmidt, and P.M. Stern, “Progress towards a standardized system of wine aroma terminology.” American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, 35 (1984), pp. 107-109
  4. Edwards, Michael. Fragrances of the World. Sydney, N.S.W.: Fragrances of the World, 1992. Print.
  5. "The Art and Technology of Perfumery Bangkok March 2012". PerfumersWorld (Video). DAY 4: 4-01--Perfume and Personality. Retrieved October 8, 2019.
  6. 1 2 Edwards, Michael (2008), Fragrances of the world 2008, Michael Edwards & Co, ISBN   978-0-9756097-3-6
  7. Boberick, Mark David (2010-03-30), "Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive interview with Michael Edwards Fragrance Expert and Author of "Fragrances Of The World"", Sniffapalooza Magazine
  8. "Fragrances of the World - Discover Michael Edwards' world of fragrances". www.fragrancesoftheworld.com. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  9. Zarzo, Manuel; Stanton, David T. (2009), "Understanding the underlying dimensions in perfumers' odor perception space as a basis for developing meaningful odor maps", Attention, Perception, & Psychophysics, 71 (2): 225–247, doi: 10.3758/APP.71.2.225 , PMID   19304614, S2CID   207550431
  10. Donna, Laura (December 2009), "Fragrance Perception: Is Everything Relative?", Perfumer and Flavourist, 34: 26–35
  11. "Fresh Fragrance Notes". Pure French Soaps. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
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  14. "A Simplified Guide To Using The Fragrance Wheel". www.alphaaromatics.com. 2021-11-21. Retrieved 2024-03-17.
  15. Edwards, Michael (2011), Fragrances of the world 2011, Michael Edwards & Co
  16. "Explore Michael Edwards' Fragrance Wheel - Discover Michael Edwards' world of fragrances". www.fragrancesoftheworld.com. Retrieved 2021-08-28.
  17. "The Fragrance Wheel". 2017-03-06. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  18. Leanna, Serras. "Your Guide to the Fragrance Wheel and Scent Families".
  19. "Understanding The Fragrance Wheel". Beauty Base. 2020-04-29. Retrieved 2021-08-28.
  20. "The Fragrance Wheel". 2017-03-06. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  21. youhana, helena (2020-11-12). "FRAGRANCE FAMILIES EXPLAINED". SCENT BEAUTY. Retrieved 2024-03-04.