Pete Wells

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Pete Wells
BornPeter Andrew Wells
1963 (age 60–61)
OccupationRestaurant critic
Alma mater University of Pennsylvania
Spouse
​
​
(m. 2003;div. 2016)​

Peter Andrew Wells (born 1963) is an American journalist who was the restaurant critic for The New York Times from 2011 to 2024. [1] [2]

Contents

Early life and career

Wells was adopted as an infant by Shirley and Raymond Wells and grew up in Rhode Island. [3] [4] He attended Cumberland High School during a period in which student Aaron Fricke successfully sued the high school on First Amendment grounds over a rule against same-sex prom dates. [5] Wells later attended the University of Pennsylvania, graduating in 1985 as a history major. [3] After school, Wells freelanced as fact-checker for The New Yorker and Vanity Fair , before working for the former in a public relations capacity. [5] [3]

From 1999 to 2001, Wells was a columnist and editor for Food & Wine. [6] Wells received five James Beard awards for food writing published in Food & Wine. [6] The awarded works include a 2001 story about connoisseurs of single-malt Scotch whisky [7] and a 2003 essay on a tour Wells took of Southern smokehouses with the founder of a "Bacon of the Month" club. [8]

Wells freelanced and served as articles editor for Details magazine from 2001 to 2006, when he joined The New York Times as dining editor. [6] While dining editor, Wells wrote a semi-regular column called "Cooking with Dexter" for The New York Times Magazine , about working in the kitchen with his young sons. [9] [10] He also frequently produced dispatches for the newspaper's "Diner's Journal" blog and occasionally wrote restaurant reviews and essays. [5]

The New York Times restaurant critic

Following the departure of Sam Sifton, Wells officially became the chief restaurant critic for TheNew York Times in January 2012 [11] While dining editor, Wells wrote an extensive memo about the position of the restaurant critic at the newspaper since Craig Claiborne formalized the role in 1963.

Wells's caustic November 14, 2012, review of Guy Fieri's American Kitchen and Bar, which consisted entirely of sarcastic questions about the poor quality of the food and service, [12] was described by Larry Olmsted of Forbes as "the most scathing review in the history of the New York Times," and "likely the most widely read restaurant review ever." [13] It was the fifth-most-emailed New York Times article of 2012. [3]

His 2016 review of Per Se, downgrading the restaurant to 2 stars, also attracted wide attention. [3] His two predecessors as critics, Sifton and Frank Bruni, had each given the restaurant four stars. Wells identified issues with the quality of the food and the atmosphere, criticizing the menu as "random and purposeless," and noting that the servers could be "oddly unaccommodating." [14] Following the review, Per Se's founder and owner Thomas Keller published an open letter apologizing to patrons for the negative review. [15] Wells also attracted considerable attention for his October 29, 2019, zero-star review of Peter Luger Steak House. [16] [17]

Wells received a sixth James Beard award, the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award, in 2020. The award cited his reviews of Peter Luger, as well as the restaurants Benno and Mercado Little Spain. [18]

In July 2024, Wells announced he would step down as restaurant critic for the Times the following month. [19] Wells will remain at the Times in an unspecified role. [19] His last published essay as a restaurant reviewer was on August 6, titled "I Reviewed Restaurants for 12 Years. They've Changed, and Not for the Better." [1]

Personal life

Wells married the novelist Susan Choi in 2003; [4] they met while working for The New Yorker . [3] They separated in 2016 but continue to share a house in Brooklyn and co-parent their two sons. [20]

See also

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References

  1. 1 2 Wells, Pete (August 6, 2024). "I Reviewed Restaurants for 12 Years. They've Changed, and Not for the Better". The New York Times . Retrieved August 6, 2024.
  2. ↑ Wells, Pete (December 3, 2012). "Pete Wells, Restaurant Critic, Answers Readers' Questions". The New York Times . Retrieved January 7, 2013.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Parker, Ian (September 12, 2016). "Knives Out: Pete Wells, the Times' Restaurant Critic, wants to have fun -- or else". The New Yorker. No. 46–55.
  4. 1 2 "WEDDINGS/CELEBRATIONS; Susan Choi, Peter Wells". The New York Times. June 15, 2003. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  5. 1 2 3 Alexander, Kevin (April 8, 2016). "Finding Pete Wells: A Search for America's Most Dangerous Restaurant Critic". Thrillist. Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  6. 1 2 3 "Talk to the Newsroom: Dining Editor Pete Wells". The New York Times. July 23, 2007. Retrieved September 8, 2013.
  7. ↑ "Spirits: Single-Minded". Food & Wine. Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  8. ↑ "Captain Bacon". Food & Wine. Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  9. ↑ Wells, Pete (May 26, 2010). "Cooking With Dexter: Free Bird". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  10. ↑ Wells, Pete (August 4, 2009). "Punch Line". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  11. ↑ Peters, Jeremy W. (November 15, 2011). "The Times Names a New Restaurant Critic and Dining Editor". Media Decoder Blog. Retrieved February 10, 2024.
  12. ↑ Wells, Pete (November 13, 2012). "As Not Seen on TV". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved July 16, 2024.
  13. ↑ Olmstead, Larry (December 5, 2012). "Tables Turned - Top Chefs Review Pete Wells And Other Restaurant Critics". Forbes . Retrieved January 7, 2013.
  14. ↑ Wells, Pete (January 12, 2016). "At Thomas Keller's Per Se, Slips and Stumbles". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  15. ↑ Kissinger, Jessie (February 10, 2016). "Why That Per Se Review May Change Fine Dining Forever". Esquire. Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  16. ↑ "Iconic NYC Steakhouse Peter Luger Gets Zero Stars in Scathing New York Times Review". WNBC . October 29, 2019. Archived from the original on October 30, 2019.
  17. ↑ Gardiner, Aidan (October 29, 2019). "Readers Respond to the Pete Wells Review of Peter Luger: 'Finally'". The New York Times . ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved October 30, 2019.
  18. ↑ "These Are the 2020 James Beard Awards Finalists". Food & Wine. Retrieved February 11, 2024.
  19. 1 2 Orlow, Emma (July 16, 2024). "Pete Wells Will No Longer Be the 'New York Times' Restaurant Critic". Eater NY. Retrieved July 16, 2024.
  20. ↑ Kelly, Hillary (March 31, 2019). "Susan Choi on Her Mind-Bending #MeToo Novel". Vulture. Retrieved February 11, 2024.
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