Petersham ribbon

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Petersham ribbon, also called Petersham facing or simply Petersham, is a thick, stiff, flexible corded ribbon usually made out of either cotton, rayon, viscose, or a cotton/ rayon or viscose blend of fibres and used as facing by milliners and tailors. Petersham is frequently watered on both sides and comes with a scalloped edge. It is woven so that once steamed, it will take on and support a particular curve of fabric. This makes it useful for obtaining a smooth edge on the brim of a hat, for example, without forming puckers or wrinkles which would result from the use of traditional flat ribbon or other flat fabric. [1] It is also useful as an alternative to bias tape for making fabric conform closely to the shape of the body wearing it— in a corset, for example, or along the waistline of a pair of trousers or a skirt. Petersham is utilized in couture sewing as a form of interfacing as way to stabilize waistbands. [2]

Petersham is very similar to grosgrain ribbon in appearance: both have closely spaced horizontal ridges, but Petersham has a flexible picot edge allowing it to be shaped with an iron, whereas grosgrain cannot be shaped this way. [3]

Petersham is named after the eighteenth century English lord Viscount Petersham who invented an overcoat and breeches made of a special heavy woollen cloth with a round nap surface. [4] For this reason, "Petersham" is often (but not always) capitalized.

See also

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing</span> Craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a needle and thread

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rayon</span> Cellulose-based semi-synthetic fiber

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lining (sewing)</span> Inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Facing (sewing)</span>

In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing. Facing is mostly used to finish the edges in necklines, armholes, hems and openings. They are also used widely in all other sewing like quilts and home decor items like curtain hems.

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Felled seam, or flat-fell seam, is a seam made by placing one edge inside a folded edge of fabric, then stitching the fold down. The fold encases the raw edges protects them from fraying. The fold may be secured with a topstitch or a whipstitch. It is useful for keeping seam allowances flat and covering raw edges.

References

  1. Sanders-Forge, Erica; Neukam, Judith; Fresia, Carol; et al., eds. (2011). Threads sewing guide. Newtown, CT: Taunton. p. 204. ISBN   978-1-60085-144-5.
  2. Shaeffer, Claire B. (1994). Couture sewing techniques . Newton, CT: Taunton Press. ISBN   0942391888. OCLC   28421993.
  3. Betzina, Sandra (2000). Huxley, Susan (ed.). Power sewing step-by-step. Newtown, CT: Taunton. p. 72. ISBN   1-56158-363-4.
  4. Norris, Herbert; Curtis, Oswald (1998). Nineteenth-century costume and fashion. Minneola, NY: Dover. p. 44. ISBN   978-0486402925.