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Company type | Family Business |
---|---|
Industry | Fashion |
Founded | 1932 |
Founder | Gennaro Rubinacci |
Headquarters | Naples, Milan and London, , |
Key people | Mariano Rubinacci, Luca Rubinacci |
Products | Men's tailoring, Classic Italian suits |
Services | Bespoke tailoring and RtW collection |
Website | marianorubinacci |
Rubinacci is an Italian luxury clothing company founded in Naples, Italy in 1932 by Gennaro Rubinacci under the name of the London House. [1] The idea Rubinacci had was to create unstructured, unlined jackets meant to be worn outside of the office. Among his early clients were filmmaker Vittorio De Sica and journalist Curzio Malaparte. [2]
The history of Rubinacci began with art collector Gennaro Rubinacci's own tailoring emporium; he opened London House, at 25 Via Filangieri. [3] [4] In 1961, Gennaro's son, Mariano, took control of the company. In 1963, he changed its name to Rubinacci, maintaining the initials of the original name in the logo. Later, a branch was opened in Milan, in 1989, and in London in 2005. [3]
As of 2018, Luca Rubinacci, Gennaro's grandson, is the creative director of Rubinacci, and responsible for launching the firm's ready-to-wear line.
Mariano Rubinacci established a museum of Neapolitan tailoring in Naples, featuring clothes from the 1930s, which has occasionally loaned items to the FIT in New York, and had an exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in 2014. [5]
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, referred to as Yves Saint Laurent or YSL, was a French fashion designer who, in 1962, founded his eponymous fashion label. He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers of the twentieth century. In 1985, Caroline Milbank wrote, "The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its 1960s ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable."
A coat is typically an outer garment for the upper body, worn by any gender for warmth or fashion. Coats typically have long sleeves and are open down the front, and closing by means of buttons, zippers, hook-and-loop fasteners, toggles, a belt, or a combination of some of these. Other possible features include collars, shoulder straps, and hoods.
A suit, lounge suit, or business suit is a set of clothes comprising a suit jacket and trousers of identical textiles generally worn with a collared dress shirt, necktie, and dress shoes. A skirt suit is similar, but with a matching skirt instead of trousers. It is currently considered semi-formal wear or business wear in contemporary Western dress codes, however when the suit was originally developed it was considered an informal or more casual option compared to the prevailing clothing standards of aristocrats and businessmen. The lounge suit originated in 19th-century Britain as sportswear and British country clothing, which is why it was seen as more casual than citywear at that time, with the roots of the suit coming from early modern Western Europe formal court or military clothes. After replacing the black frock coat in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-coloured suit became known as a lounge suit.
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History of fashion design refers specifically to the development of the purpose and intention behind garments, shoes, accessories, and their design and construction. The modern industry, based around firms or fashion houses run by individual designers, started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who, beginning in 1858, was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments he created.
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Fashion from 1910 to 1919 in the Western world was characterized by a rich and exotic opulence in the first half of the decade in contrast with the somber practicality of garments worn during the Great War. Men's trousers were worn cuffed to ankle-length and creased. Skirts rose from floor length to well above the ankle, women began to bob their hair, and the stage was set for the radical new fashions associated with the Jazz Age of the 1920s.
A man's suit of clothes, in the sense of a lounge or business or office suit, is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth. This article discusses the history of the lounge suit, often called a business suit when featuring dark colors and a conservative cut.
H. Huntsman & Sons is a high-end fashion house and tailor located at No. 11 Savile Row, London. It is known for its English bespoke menswear tailoring, cashmere ready-to-wear collections, and leather accessories.
Timothy Charles Peto Everest is a Welsh tailor and fashion designer. He moved to London in his early twenties to work with the Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter. He then became one of the self proclaimed leaders of the New Bespoke Movement, which brought designer attitudes to the traditional skills of Savile Row tailoring.
Savile Row tailoring is men and women's bespoke tailoring that takes place on Savile Row and neighbouring streets in Mayfair, Central London. In 1846, Henry Poole, credited as being the "Founder of Savile Row", opened an entrance to his tailoring premises at No. 32 Savile Row. The term bespoke is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers. The short street has been termed the "golden mile of tailoring", where customers have included Charles III, Winston Churchill, Lord Nelson, Napoleon III, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, Laurence Olivier and Duke Ellington.
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