Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War

Last updated

Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War
Coco Chanel Sleeping with the Enemy.jpg
Author Hal Vaughan
CountryUnited States
LanguageEnglish
Publisher Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group
Publication date
2011
Pages336
ISBN 978-0-3074-7591-6

Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War is a 2011 book by journalist Hal Vaughan, it was published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group, now part of Penguin Random House. [1] [2] The book is a biography of French fashion designer Coco Chanel, detailing her life from humble beginnings growing up in relative poverty, to her meteoric rise in French and British society and emergence as a fashion icon.

Contents

The book also details her active collaboration with the Nazi intelligence service, the Sicherheitsdienst, during the second World War. Although it had been known that Chanel was a mistress of a Nazi officer, the extent of her Nazi collaboration during the war had previously been unknown prior to the publication of the book.

Narrative

The biography details Chanel's life, beginning in her early childhood, where she was born into poverty. She was born Gabrielle Chanel in 1883, in the Loire Valley of France. She lived in a home for the poor until the age of 12, where upon her mother's death, she moved to a Catholic orphanage. At the age of 18, she took the name "Coco" and worked as a singer at a cabaret and as a seamstress. The book then explains her rise among the French and British aristocracy, first by forming a relationship with former cavalry officer and French socialite Etienne Balsan and then her relationship with English polo player Arthur Edward Capel who financed her first fashion boutiques in Paris. Chanel continued her rise in British society by befriending Winston Churchill and becoming the mistress of the Duke of Westminster Hugh Grosvenor. After the start of the Second World War, Chanel engaged in a romantic relationship with Nazi intelligence officer Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage (known as "Spatz"). During the war, Chanel became a spy, and an active collaborator for Nazi Germany. In 1943, Chanel was an instrumental part of operation Modelhut (Model Hat), in which Nazi intelligence officers, using Chanel's position of prestige among the British aristocracy, attempted to get a message to Winston Churchill stating that some SS officers, operating independently of Adolf Hitler and the rest of Nazi Germany, wished to broker a cease fire. After the war Chanel was able to keep her Nazi past hidden from French society, and the world. She paid off General Walter Schellenberg, who was her commander during operation Modelhut, to keep her out of his memoirs. After the war, Chanel was able to cunningly re-integrate into French society and continued her rise as a style icon.

The book also documents Chanel's fervent antisemitism, including her attempts to use contemporary Nazi laws to wrestle control of the perfume division, Chanel No 5, from her Jewish co-investors Pierre Wertheimer and his brother Jacques.

Reception

In a negative review, in the New York Times , writer Judith Warner criticized Vaughan for relying to much on the primary source material without further analysis or elaboration. She states: "Vaughan seems to have felt as though his rich source materials could speak for themselves, but they don't - and he doesn't succeed in lending authority to the accounts of contemporary witnesses who were, undoubtedly, unreliable". [3] Warner further criticized Vaughan for failing to provide the context in which Chanel was able to seamlessly integrate back into French society after the war. [3] Warner concludes: "Despite all he knows about Chanel, Vaughan often appears to be as beguiled, disarmed and charmed by Coco as were the men in her life". [3]

In a mixed review, in The Washington Post , author and journalist Marie Arana states "It's an astonishing story. And yet, its telling is far from perfect", further criticized Vaughan's writing style, stating "Vaughan's clichés and non-sequiturs abound - some of his phrases are simply not English". [4] But regarding the book's drawbacks, Arana states: "But mid-book, the story is so gripping, the questions so provocative that, like his publisher, we no longer care". [4]

With regard to her collaborationist past, Michael Korda applauded Vaughan stating: "Hal Vaughan has done a stupendous job of research", and Korda further praised Vaughan for his detailed and nuanced portrait of Chanel, stating: "What is of interest is Chanel herself, and on the subject Vaughan draws a brilliant portrait". [5]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Audrey Tautou</span> French actress and model

Audrey Justine Tautou is a French actress. She made her acting debut at age 18 on television, and her feature film debut in Venus Beauty Institute (1999), for which she received critical acclaim and won the César Award for Most Promising Actress.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Walter Schellenberg</span> German intelligence officer in Nazi Germany

Walter Friedrich Schellenberg was a German SS functionary during the Nazi era. He rose through the ranks of the SS, becoming one of the highest ranking men in the Sicherheitsdienst (SD) and eventually assumed the position as head of foreign intelligence for Nazi Germany following the abolition of the Abwehr in 1944.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chanel</span> French fashion house

Chanel is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1910 by Coco Chanel in Paris. It is privately owned by the Wertheimer family and has been headquartered in London since 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Misia Sert</span> Art patron (1872 – 1950)

Misia Sert was known primarily as a patron of contemporary artists and musicians during the decades she hosted salons in her homes in Paris. Born in the Russian Empire and of Belgian, French and Polish descent, she became a professional pianist and gave her first public concert in 1892. She was a patron and friend of numerous artists, for whom she regularly posed, appearing on magazine covers and posters. Her salons were frequented by contemporary writers and musicians played their newest works.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chanel No. 5</span> Perfume by Coco Chanel

Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921. The scent formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. The design of its bottle has been an important part of the product's branding. Coco Chanel was the first face of the fragrance, appearing in the advertisement published by Harper's Bazaar in 1937.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paul Morand</span> French author

Paul Morand was a French author whose short stories and novellas were lauded for their style, wit and descriptive power. His most productive literary period was the interwar period of the 1920s and 1930s. He was much admired by the upper echelons of society and the artistic avant-garde who made him a cult favorite. He has been categorized as an early Modernist and Imagist.

Sleeping with the Enemy is a 1991 film based on the Nancy Price novel.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster</span> British noble (1879–1953)

Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster, was a British landowner and one of the wealthiest men in the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pierre Wertheimer</span> French businessman

Pierre Wertheimer was a French businessman, who co-founded Chanel with Coco Chanel.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pierre Reverdy</span> French poet (1889–1960)

Pierre Reverdy was a French poet whose works were inspired by and subsequently proceeded to influence the provocative art movements of the day, Surrealism, Dadaism and Cubism. The loneliness and spiritual apprehension that ran through his poetry appealed to the Surrealist credo. He, though, remained independent of the prevailing "-isms", searching for something beyond their definitions. His writing matured into a mystical mission seeking, as he wrote: "the sublime simplicity of reality."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paul Iribe</span> French illustrator and designer

Paul Iribe was a French illustrator and designer in the decorative arts. He worked in Hollywood during the 1920s and was Coco Chanel's lover from 1931 to his death.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Félix Amiot</span> French industrial

Félix Amiot was a French industrialist and aircraft constructor based in Colombes, France. Some of the aircraft models he designed served in the French Air Force during the Second World War. His second industrial activity was shipbuilding for fishing boats, sailing, and warship in Cherbourg. He became famous for designing and producing Missile Boat type "Combattante" which he sold worldwide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">French fashion</span> Overview of fashion in the French Republic

Fashion in France is an important subject in the culture and country's social life, as well as being an important part of its economy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coco Chanel</span> French fashion designer (1883–1971)

Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel was a French fashion designer and businesswoman. The founder and namesake of the Chanel brand, she was credited in the post–World War I era with popularizing a sporty, casual chic as the feminine standard of style. This replaced the "corseted silhouette" that had earlier been dominant with a style that was simpler, far less time-consuming to put on and remove, more comfortable, and less expensive, all without sacrificing elegance. She is the only fashion designer listed on Time magazine's list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century. A prolific fashion creator, Chanel extended her influence beyond couture clothing, realizing her aesthetic design in jewellery, handbags, and fragrance. Her signature scent, Chanel No. 5, has become an iconic product, and Chanel herself designed her famed interlocked-CC monogram, which has been in use since the 1920s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zachary Selig</span> American painter (1949–2016)

Zachary Selig was an American artist, author, interior designer and celebrity spiritist.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ernest Beaux</span> French perfumer

Ernest Beaux was a Russian-born French perfumer who is best known for creating Chanel No. 5, which is perhaps the world's most famous perfume.

Hal Weston Vaughan was an American author and journalist based in Paris, France. He held several posts as a US Foreign Service officer before becoming a journalist on assignments in Europe, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vera Bate Lombardi</span> Socialite during the Second World War

Vera Bate Lombardi was a socialite and close associate of Coco Chanel and the mother of Bridget Bate Tichenor. A British citizen at birth, she became a citizen of the United States after her first marriage and of Italy after her second marriage. She was arrested in Italy in 1943 under suspicions of spying for the British during World War II. After her release, she made her way to Madrid, where she denounced Chanel for collaborating with the Nazis.

Hans Günther von Dincklage was a German officer and merchant, who was supposedly active as a spy during the German occupation in France.

References

  1. "Sleeping with the Enemy by Hal Vaughan". Knopf Doubleday.
  2. "Sleeping with the Enemy by Hal Vaughan: 9780307475916 | PenguinRandomHouse.com: Books". PenguinRandomhouse.com.
  3. 1 2 3 Warner, Judith (September 2, 2011). "Was Coco Chanel a Nazi Agent?". The New York Times.
  4. 1 2 Arana, Marie (August 19, 2011). ""Sleeping With the Enemy," by Hal Vaughan". Washington Post.
  5. Korda, Michael (August 13, 2011). "'Coco Chanel's Secret Nazi History': New Book by Hal Vaugh Reveals". The Daily Beast.