Timeline of climbing the Matterhorn

Last updated



First ascent of the Matterhorn, engraving by Gustave Dore Matterhorn ascent Dore.jpg
First ascent of the Matterhorn, engraving by Gustave Dore



















































Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Matterhorn</span> Mountain in the Swiss and Italian Alps

The Matterhorn is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the main watershed and border between Switzerland and Italy. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, whose summit is 4,478 metres (14,692 ft) high, making it one of the highest summits in the Alps and Europe. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points and are split by the Hörnli, Furggen, Leone/Lion, and Zmutt ridges. The mountain overlooks the Swiss town of Zermatt, in the canton of Valais, to the northeast; and the Italian town of Breuil-Cervinia in the Aosta Valley to the south. Just east of the Matterhorn is Theodul Pass, the main passage between the two valleys on its north and south sides, which has been a trade route since the Roman Era.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Edward Whymper</span> English mountaineer (1840-1911)

Edward Whymper FRSE was an English mountaineer, explorer, illustrator, and author best known for the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865. Four members of his climbing party were killed during the descent. Whymper also made important first ascents on the Mont Blanc massif and in the Pennine Alps, Chimborazo in South America, and the Canadian Rockies. His exploration of Greenland contributed an important advance to Arctic exploration. Whymper wrote several books on mountaineering, including Scrambles Amongst the Alps.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dent Blanche</span> Mountain in the Pennine Alps in Valais Canton, Switzerland

The Dent Blanche is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, lying in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. At 4,357 m (14,295 ft)-high, it is one of the highest peaks in the Alps.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Charles Hudson (climber)</span> Anglican chaplain and mountain climber

Charles Hudson was an Anglican chaplain and mountain climber from Skillington, Lincolnshire, England.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Breuil-Cervinia</span> Alpine resort in the Aosta Valley region of northwest Italy

Breuil-Cervinia is a frazione of the comune of Valtournenche, and is considered one of the most renowned winter and summer tourist resorts in the Alps.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ober Gabelhorn</span> Mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland

The Ober Gabelhorn is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland, located between Zermatt and Zinal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dent d'Hérens</span> Mountain in the Pennine Alps

The Dent d'Hérens is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, lying on the border between Italy and Switzerland. The mountain lies a few kilometres west of the Matterhorn.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Michel Croz</span> French mountain guide

Michel Auguste Croz was a French mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains in the western Alps during the golden age of alpinism. He is chiefly remembered for his death on the first ascent of the Matterhorn and for his climbing partnership with Edward Whymper.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weisshorn</span> Mountain in the Pennine Alps

The Weisshorn is a major peak of Switzerland and the Alps, culminating at 4,506 metres above sea level. It is part of the Pennine Alps and is located between the valleys of Anniviers and Zermatt in the canton of Valais. In the latter valley, the Weisshorn is one of the many 4000ers surrounding Zermatt, with Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lord Francis Douglas</span>

Lord Francis William Bouverie Douglas was a novice British mountaineer. After sharing in the first ascent of the Matterhorn, he died in a fall on the way down from the summit.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Douglas Robert Hadow</span>

Douglas Robert Hadow was a British novice mountaineer who died on the descent after the first ascent of the Matterhorn.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jean-Antoine Carrel</span> Italian mountain climber and guide

Jean-Antoine Carrel was an Italian mountain climber and guide. He had made climbs with Edward Whymper and was his rival when he attempted to climb the Matterhorn for the first time. Whymper ultimately succeeded in making the mountain's first ascent in July 1865 while Carrel led the party that achieved the second ascent three days later. Carrel was in the group that became the first Europeans to reach the summit of Chimborazo in 1880. He died from exhaustion when guiding a party on the south side of the Matterhorn.

William Penhall was an English mountaineer.

Luigi (Louis) Carrel aka Carrellino (1901–1983) was an Italian mountain climber, mountain guide and ski mountaineer.

The Mountain Calls is a film directed by Luis Trenker which recreates the struggle between Edward Whymper and Jean-Antoine Carrel for the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">First ascent of the Matterhorn</span> 1856 mountaineering expedition in the Pennine Alps

The first ascent of the Matterhorn was a mountaineering expedition made by Edward Whymper, Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, Michel Croz, and two Zermatt guides, Peter Taugwalder and his son of the same name, on 14 July 1865. Douglas, Hudson, Hadow and Croz were killed on the descent when Hadow slipped and pulled the other three with him down the north face. Whymper and the Taugwalder guides, who survived, were later accused of having cut the rope below to ensure that they were not dragged down with the others, but the subsequent inquiry found no evidence of this and they were acquitted.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Second ascent of the Matterhorn</span> Made in July 1865, three days after the first

The second ascent of the Matterhorn was accomplished in July 1865, only three days after the successful expedition led by Edward Whymper on the Zermatt side. The second was effected on the Italian side by Jean-Antoine Carrel and Jean-Baptiste Bich with the abbé Amé Gorret and Jean-Augustin Meynet who followed them near to the summit. The party started from Breuil on 16 July and reached the top the following day.

<i>The Challenge</i> (1938 film) 1938 British film

The Challenge is a 1938 British drama film directed by Milton Rosmer and Luis Trenker and starring Robert Douglas and Luis Trenker. The film is about the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 by Edward Whymper.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Amé Gorret</span>

Amé Gorret (1836-1907), known in his native Aosta Valley as the "Abbé Gorret", was a priest and Alpinist (mountaineer).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Peter Taugwalder</span>

Peter Taugwalder was a Swiss mountaineer and guide. Along with his son of the same name, Taugwalder was one of seven men that made the first ascent of the Matterhorn in July 1865. He was also one of the three men that survived the descent, along with his son and Edward Whymper.


  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Pierre Staelen: La Conquête du Cervin Retrieved 2010-01-18
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Edward Whymper, Scrambles amongst the Alps (table of attempts and ascents)
  3. D.F.O. Dangar & T.S. Blakeney, 'Old' Peter Taugwalder, 1820-88, The Alpine Journal Vol. 50, pp. 26-29
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, du Col Collon au Theodulpass, 1992, Swiss Alpine Club
  5. 1 2 3 4 5 6 The Matterhorn Centenary, The Alpine Journal Vol. 50, pp. 9-14
  6. 1 2 3 4 Whymper, Edward, Scrambles amongst the Alps, Courier Dover Publications, 1996, p. 425
  7. 1 2 3 4 5 Guido Rey, The Matterhorn
  8. Theodore Roosevelt Personal Diary, 1881
  9. Theodore Roosevelt - letter to his sister
  10. Chronology of climbs weltderberge.de. Retrieved 2010-02-03
  11. Marian Smoluchowski - alpine climber, polish deltami.edu.pl. Retrieved 2021-10-09
  12. Alpinisme Cervin/Dent Blanche Weisshorn, du Col Collon au Theodulpass, 2012, Swiss Alpine Club
  13. Uglow, Jennifer, ed. (1991). Macmillan Dictionary of Women's Biography. Springer. p. 552. ISBN   9781349127047.
  14. Paul Petzoldt Is Dead at 91; Innovator in Rock Climbing nytimes.com, 9 October 1999
  15. 1 2 Robin G. Collomb, Pennine Alps Central, London: Alpine Club, 1975, pp. 241–59
  16. Bells ring out for king of mountains lynnnews.co.uk, 28 March 2006
  17. Matterhorn in German , French and Italian in the online Historical Dictionary of Switzerland .
  18. 1 2 Herve Barmasse and Luca Maspes, July 2006, "The Matterhorn", Alpinist, 16
  19. Birkett, Bill; Peascod, Bill (1990). Women Climbing: 200 Years of Achievement. The Mountaineers.
  20. Sampiero, Josh. "Dani Arnold's speed ascent of the Matterhorn North Face beats Ueli Steck for a new world record". www.redbull.com. Retrieved 24 November 2015.
  21. remains of 2 climbers identified
  22. "Historia polskiego wspinania. Alpy cz. II (po II wojnie światowej)" (in Polish). Retrieved 2023-03-10.
  23. Ulrich Inderbinen telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 2010-01-27
  24. La Stampa 08-21-1992, p. 12
  25. The finest alpinists in the world summitpost.org. Retrieved 2010-01-27
  26. 1 2 Kilian Jornet Shatters Matterhorn Speed Record
  27. Record retour on the Matterhorn's Hörnli ridge, alpinist.com, 20 September 2007
  28. Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours, planetmountain.com, 23 January 2009
  29. Jean Troillet climbs a 600 meters new route on Matterhorn north face Archived 2009-08-10 at the Wayback Machine up-climbing.org. Retrieved 2010-01-19
  30. Swiss Guide Climbs Matterhorn in Sub-3 Hour Sprint
  31. Dani Arnold Breaks Matterhorn Speed Record, Climbing, 30 April 2015