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A trilliant cut, sometimes called a trillion, trillian, or Trielle is a triangular type of gemstone cut. The cut has many variations. It may have curved or uncurved sides. The shape of the top surface, or table, also varies.
The trilliant cut was introduced by the Asscher brothers in Amsterdam. In the early 1960s Leon Finker created his version on the "triangular brilliant cut diamond", which he called the trillion cut. Finker had a large diamond cutting factory in New York, and Henry Meyer Diamond Company, who was also cutting triangular brilliant diamonds, used the same diamond cutters, though their stones were cut slightly differently.
Henry Meyer referred to his diamond cut as "trilliant", while Finker called his cut trillion.
When Finker's son, Marvin Finker, entered the business in the early 1970s, he decided to patent the cut that his father was cutting and he trademarked the term "Trillion" for their now patented triangular brilliant cut diamond.
They used the term "Trillion" and "Trilliant" in a stylized design until they lost the trademark in 1986 when a federal court judge decided that the words "Trillion" and "Trilliant" were phonetically equivalent. [1] Since trilliant was a concatenation of the generic term "triangular brilliant", it could no longer be a registered trademark.
Finker gave the term "trillion" to the trade in a half-page advertisement in the New York Times and announced that their patented cut would be known as Trielle and TRIELLE in a stylized design.
Now that the trademark had been canceled, the term "trillion cut" is used to refer to all triangular-shaped gems, even step cut and cabochon stones. Triangular brilliant and triangular modified brilliant are the generic terms used by GIA when referring to non-branded diamonds. [2]
The cut displays a very sharp brilliance or fire if the diamond is cut to the correct depth allowing good scintillation. It is generally cut with a 1:14 length to width ratio with straight edges. This straight edged trillion cut is usually used for accent gemstones, on either side of a main, larger stone of a ring.
This is a softer version of the uncurved version, with three soft points and curved sides. The length to width ratio should still be 1:1, keeping the gemstone proportioned. This cut is unusual, but can be found in pieces as a solitary gem or as an accent gem. The curved triangular brilliant is commonly known as trilliant.
A gemstone is a piece of mineral crystal which, when cut or polished, is used to make jewelry or other adornments. Certain rocks and occasionally organic materials that are not minerals may also be used for jewelry and are therefore often considered to be gemstones as well. Most gemstones are hard, but some softer minerals such as brazilianite may be used in jewelry because of their color or luster or other physical properties that have aesthetic value. However, generally speaking, soft minerals are not typically used as gemstones by virtue of their brittleness and lack of durability.
Sapphire is a precious gemstone, a variety of the mineral corundum, consisting of aluminium oxide (α-Al2O3) with trace amounts of elements such as iron, titanium, cobalt, lead, chromium, vanadium, magnesium, boron, and silicon. The name sapphire is derived via the Latin sapphirus from the Greek sappheiros (σάπφειρος), which referred to lapis lazuli. It is typically blue, but natural "fancy" sapphires also occur in yellow, purple, orange, and green colors; "parti sapphires" show two or more colors. Red corundum stones also occur, but are called rubies rather than sapphires. Pink-colored corundum may be classified either as ruby or sapphire depending on locale. Commonly, natural sapphires are cut and polished into gemstones and worn in jewelry. They also may be created synthetically in laboratories for industrial or decorative purposes in large crystal boules. Because of the remarkable hardness of sapphires – 9 on the Mohs scale (the third hardest mineral, after diamond at 10 and moissanite at 9.5) – sapphires are also used in some non-ornamental applications, such as infrared optical components, high-durability windows, wristwatch crystals and movement bearings, and very thin electronic wafers, which are used as the insulating substrates of special-purpose solid-state electronics such as integrated circuits and GaN-based blue LEDs. Sapphire is the birthstone for September and the gem of the 45th anniversary. A sapphire jubilee occurs after 65 years.
A ruby is a pinkish red to blood-red colored gemstone, a variety of the mineral corundum. Ruby is one of the most popular traditional jewelry gems and is very durable. Other varieties of gem-quality corundum are called sapphires. Ruby is one of the traditional cardinal gems, alongside amethyst, sapphire, emerald, and diamond. The word ruby comes from ruber, Latin for red. The color of a ruby is due to the element chromium.
Lapidary is the practice of shaping stone, minerals, or gemstones into decorative items such as cabochons, engraved gems, and faceted designs. A person who practices lapidary is known as a lapidarist. A lapidarist uses the lapidary techniques of cutting, grinding, and polishing. Hardstone carving requires specialized carving techniques.
Diamond cutting is the practice of shaping a diamond from a rough stone into a faceted gem. Cutting diamonds requires specialized knowledge, tools, equipment, and techniques because of its extreme difficulty.
A cabochon is a gemstone that has been shaped and polished, as opposed to faceted. The resulting form is usually a convex (rounded) obverse with a flat reverse. Cabochon was the default method of preparing gemstones before gemstone cutting developed.
Facets are flat faces on geometric shapes. The organization of naturally occurring facets was key to early developments in crystallography, since they reflect the underlying symmetry of the crystal structure. Gemstones commonly have facets cut into them in order to improve their appearance by allowing them to reflect light.
Hearts and arrows (H&A) diamonds are precision-cut variations of the traditional 57 faceted round brilliant cut. They are cut to "ideal" proportions with good optical symmetry, polish and a specific faceting pattern. When all these factors are present, the result is a repeatable, near perfect pattern of eight symmetrical arrows in the face-up position of the stone and eight symmetrical hearts when viewed in the table-down position.
A brilliant is a diamond or other gemstone cut in a particular form with numerous facets so as to have exceptional brilliance. The underside is conical, a shape that provides maximal light return through the top of the diamond. Even with modern techniques, the cutting and polishing of a diamond crystal always results in a dramatic loss of weight; rarely is this loss less than 50%. The round brilliant cut is preferred when the crystal is an octahedron, as often two stones may be cut from one such crystal. Oddly-shaped crystals such as macles are more likely to be cut in a fancy cut—that is, a cut other than the round brilliant—which the particular crystal shape lends itself to.
A diamond cut is a style or design guide used when shaping a diamond for polishing such as the brilliant cut. Cut refers to shape, and also the symmetry, proportioning and polish of a diamond. The cut of a diamond greatly affects a diamond's brilliance—a poorly-cut diamond is less luminous.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is a nonprofit institute based in Carlsbad, California. It is dedicated to research and education in the field of gemology and the jewelry arts. Founded in 1931, GIA's mission is to protect buyers and sellers of gemstones by setting and maintaining the standards used to evaluate gemstone quality. The institute does so through research, gem identification, diamond grading services, and a variety of educational programs. Through its library and subject experts, GIA acts as a resource of gem and jewelry information for the trade, the public and media outlets.
The Moussaieff Red Diamond is a diamond measuring 5.11 carats with a triangular brilliant cut, rated in color as Fancy Red by the Gemological Institute of America. It is the world's largest known red diamond, the rarest of all diamond colors.
The Royal Asscher Diamond Company was founded in 1854 by the Asscher family of gemcutters. The company is responsible for cutting some of the most famous diamonds in the world including the 2nd largest diamond ever found. Its headquarters still stand at its original location Tolstraat 127 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The company also has regional headquarters in New York City and Tokyo.
A gemstone desired to be used in jewelry is cut depending on the size and shape of the rough stone, as well as the desired piece of jewelry to be made. As a general rule, a cut gemstone will reduce the mass by about 50%.
Stonesetting is the art of securely setting or attaching gemstones into jewelry.
Prong setting or prong mount refers to the use of metal projections or tines, called "prongs", to secure a gemstone to a piece of jewelry. A prong setting is one component of what is known to jewelers as a head, a claw-shaped type of binding that is welded or soldered to a jewelry item to mount a gemstone to the jewelry item. A common setting for diamond engagement rings, the prong setting allows light to strike a gemstone from more angles, increasing its brilliance.
A bezel is a wider and usually thicker section of the hoop of a ring, which may contain a gem or a flat surface. Rings are normally worn to display bezels on the upper or outer side of the finger. In gem-cutting the term bezel is used for those sloping facets of a cut stone that surround the flat table face, which is the large, horizontal facet on the top.
Diamond is one of the best-known and most sought-after gemstones. They have been used as decorative items since ancient times.
ImaGem Inc. is a gem information company based on patented technology for grading and identifying gems. The parent company, ImageStatistics, offers applications in imaging and image processing for the medical, pharmaceutical, manufacturing, chemical and quality assurance industries. ImaGem was created after 20 years of research done on human perception and ImageStatistics, a statistical tool developed by Dr. Lalit K. Aggarwal. ImaGem’s Systems employ advanced optics, imaging technology and proprietary software programs to automate and integrate diamond grading. In addition to evaluating the 4C’s of diamond grading, ImaGem also analyzes Light behavior information based on precise and repeatable measures; three complementary dimensions of brilliance, intensity and sparkle. ImaGem has created a system of uniquely identifying and registering (fingerprinting) a stone without any need for laser inscription. By offering all this information, ImaGem has promoted decision-making and efficiency in the gem industry supply chain. In 1998, ImaGem Inc. was incorporated in the state of Pennsylvania, USA after funding from a major retailer, Ben Franklin Technology Partnership, and private funding. The company has developed an integrated technology to collect image data for diamonds and gemstones, analyze it using direct measurement methodology and grade for precise and repeatable measurements.