William Ibgrave (died 1557) was an embroiderer working for the English royal court.
He was a son of William and Elizabeth Ibgrave. Ibgrave worked for the Duke of Suffolk and for the revels. He was embroiderer to Henry VIII from 1528. He provided work with "H" and "K" initials for Henry and Catherine of Aragon. [1]
Ibgrave worked Lady Lisle and visited Calais. Henry VIII paid him for work supplied to Anne Boleyn before their marriage, and he continued to work for her with Stephen Humble and Guillaume Brellant. He used pearls and jewels in his designs, in June 1536 outlining the "J" or "I" initial of Jane Seymour with emeralds for Henry's doublet, and using large quantities of pearl for her sleeves and kirtle. He also worked on saddles and the livery coats of the royal guard. [2]
Ibgrave was rewarded with the manors of the Hyde at Abbots Langley and Sarratt in Hertfordshire in 1545. [3] He embroidered clothes for Edward VI with Venice silver and damask silver thread, [4] and in 1551 was given spangles (a kind of sequin) to decorate the coats of the guard and messengers. [5]
Ibgrave bought disused vestments from churches during Edward's reign. [6] A payment made to Ibgrave after Edward's death, on 20 October 1553, includes quilting the king's hose, and pinking and cutting (slashing) six taffeta doublets. [7]
Ibgrave died in 1557.
Ibgrave was married twice, his wives's names were Alice and Ellen. The lands in Hertfordshire were inherited by his sons Giles (or Elisha), who married Bennet Clitherow, and Thomas Ibgrave, and the family of his brother Robert Ibgrave. The lands return to the crown for want of heirs and in 1606, James VI and I, granted them to Edward Bruce, 1st Lord Kinloss. The transaction required a private act of Parliament. [8]
Sancia, Sence, or Sencippa Ibgrave, recorded in 1569 making a presentation to appoint a vicar to the parish of Sarratt, was the daughter of Bennet Clitherow and Giles Ibgrave. Bennet's first husband was Robert Smithwick of Lees Langley. [9]
A doublet is a man's snug-fitting jacket that is shaped and fitted to a man's body. The garment was worn in Spain, and spread to the rest of Western Europe, from the late Middle Ages up to the 17th century. Until the end of the 15th century, the doublet was usually worn under another layer of clothing such as a gown, mantle, or houppelande when in public. In the 16th century it was covered by the jerkin. Women started wearing doublets in the 16th century, and these garments later evolved as the corset and stay. The doublet was thigh length, hip length or waist length and worn over the shirt or drawers.
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Fashion in the period 1500–1550 in Europe is marked by very thick, big and voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation became prominent. The tall, narrow lines of the late Medieval period were replaced with a wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders. Sleeves were a center of attention, and were puffed, slashed, cuffed, and turned back to reveal contrasting linings.
The French hood is a type of woman's headgear that was popular in Western Europe in the 16th century.
Jane Foole, also known as Jane The Foole, Jane, The Queen's Fool, "Jeanne le Fol" or "Jane Hir Fole", was an English court fool. She was the fool of queens Catherine Parr and Mary I, and possibly also of Anne Boleyn.
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Nicolò Molin (1562-1608) was a Venetian noble and ambassador to England.
Maria Hayward is an English historian of costume and early modern Britain.
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Cornelis Hayes or Heys was a Flemish jeweller who settled in London in 1524.
Several documents list the jewels of Margaret Tudor, daughter of Henry VII of England and Elizabeth of York. Margaret married James IV of Scotland in 1503.
Mary I of England (1516–1558) and Philip of Spain married at Winchester Cathedral on Wednesday 25 July 1554.
Oes or owes were metallic O-shaped rings or eyelets sewn on to clothes and furnishing textiles for decorative effect. They were used on various clothing and furnishing fabrics and were smaller than modern sequins. Made of gold, silver, or copper, oes were made either from rings of wire or out of a sheet of metal.
A silkwoman was a woman in medieval, Tudor, and Stuart England who traded in silks and other fine fabrics. London silkwomen held some trading rights independently from their husbands and were exempted from some of the usual customs and laws of coverture. The trade and craft of the silkwoman was encouraged by a statute of Henry VI of England as a countermeasure to imports of silk thread, and a suitable occupation for "young gentlewomen and other apprentices".
The coronation of Mary I as Queen of England and Ireland took place at Westminster Abbey, London, on Sunday 1 October 1553. This was the first coronation of a queen regnant in England, a female ruler in her own right. The ceremony was therefore transformed. Ritual and costume were interlinked. Contemporary records insist the proceedings were performed "according to the precedents", but mostly these were provisions made previously for queens consort.
A chamberer was a female attendant of an English queen regnant, queen consort, or princess. There were similar positions in aristocratic households.