Dress history

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Fashion plate, 1835. Journal des demoiselles 1835 Journal des demoiselles (3e annee, VI) - fashion plate by Damours after Julie Ribault (cropped).jpg
Fashion plate, 1835. Journal des demoiselles

Dress history is the study of history, which uses clothing and textiles to understand the past. Through analyzing modes of dress, different garment types, textiles, and accessories of a certain time in history, a dress historian may research and identify the social, cultural, economic, technological, and political contexts that influence such phenomena and experiences of living during the period under investigation.

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Methods of research used in dress history are wide ranging, with dress history scholars often approaching analysis from a variety of perspectives and topic interests, which may place focus on, for example, manufacture, retail, and/or consumption of clothing, modes of dress, means of sartorial expression, dress traditions, labor, trade, and capital, geography, or chronology.

Dress historical research

Salesman's Sample Book (England), 1784. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum Salesman's Sample Book (England), 1784 (CH 18386311-2).jpg
Salesman's Sample Book (England), 1784. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
Ball dress, dismantled, c. 1840, Auckland Museum Dress, ball (AM 1959.65-11).jpg
Ball dress, dismantled, c.1840, Auckland Museum

Dress history, as a specialized subject in historical research, is the study of manners of dress through time. This encompasses study centered in contextual historical grounding, which can include or stem from types or styles of clothing distinctive of a certain period in history, change in modes of sartorial expression, or the study of a specific garment or garment type. Through dress historical analysis of the visual and symbolic attributes of clothing, social customs of a particular time period and place can be better understood. [1]

Approaches to dress historical research employ wide-ranging, cross-disciplinary academic methods of analysis. [2] [3] Research may be informed by anthropology, sociology, gender studies, economic, design, and political histories, may be qualitative and/or quantitative in nature, and may also employ object-based research and material culture analysis. [4]

By using an inclusive and expansive range of different approaches and drawing on an extensive variety of sources, the subject of dress history highlights how the parameters within which dress historians conduct their research is less bound by traditional forms of recognized historical practice. [3]

Research may be informed by a range of different types of primary sources, including contemporary surviving garments, written material, working documents (such as textile swatch books or account ledgers), popular press publications (such as magazines and newspapers), painting,s nd photographs. [5] Many dress historians have worked from these documentary sources rather than examining clothing itself; the process of detailed examination of a piece of clothing to describe and interpret its function, construction, and condition has only been introduced relatively recently. [1]

Within the subject specialism of dress history, dress historians often use visual examination as a center from which to build understanding around dress, including analysis of illustrative images (such as paintings, fashion plates and caricatures), surviving objects (including clothing, accessories, and textiles), and textual analysis (of contemporary documentary sources). [1]

Through studying a wide range of different primary source material, dress historical approaches may be used to interpret dress, clothing, and fashion within historical contexts. A dress historian uses these methods (both theoretical and object-based approaches) as a way of understanding the past; [6] interpreting forms of dressing of a certain period may facilitate comprehension of the social, political, economic, and cultural contexts of a period of time and a particular place. [7]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion</span> Stylish clothing

Fashion is a term used interchangeably to describe the creation of clothing, footwear, accessories, cosmetics, and jewellery of different cultural aesthetics and their mix and match into outfits that depict distinctive ways of dressing as signifiers of social status, self-expression, and group belonging. As a multifaceted term, fashion describes an industry, styles, aesthetics, and trends.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing</span> Objects worn to cover a portion of the body

Clothing is any item worn on the body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin sheets of materials and natural products found in the environment, put together. The wearing of clothing is mostly restricted to human beings and is a feature of all human societies. The amount and type of clothing worn depends on gender, body type, social factors, and geographic considerations. Garments cover the body, footwear covers the feet, gloves cover the hands, while hats and headgear cover the head, and underwear covers the private parts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coat</span> Warming outerwear garment for men and women

A coat is typically an outer garment for the upper body, worn by either gender for warmth or fashion. Coats typically have long sleeves and are open down the front, and closing by means of buttons, zippers, hook-and-loop fasteners, toggles, a belt, or a combination of some of these. Other possible features include collars, shoulder straps, and hoods.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kaftan</span> Traditional elongated cloak-like garment

A kaftan or caftan is a variant of the robe or tunic. Originating in Asia, it has been worn by a number of cultures around the world for thousands of years. In Russian usage, kaftan instead refers to a style of men's long suit with tight sleeves.

Clothing in India varies with the different ethnicities, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Historically, clothing has evolved from simple garments like kaupina, langota, achkan, lungi, sari, to rituals and dance performances. In urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all social levels. India also has a great diversity in terms of weaves, fibers, colors, and the material of clothing. Sometimes, color codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing in India also encompasses a wide variety of Indian embroidery, prints, handwork, embellishments, and styles of wearing clothes. A wide mix of Indian traditional clothing and western styles can be seen in India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vintage clothing</span> Garments originating from a previous era

Vintage clothing is a generic term for garments originating from a previous era, as recent as the 1990s. The term can also be applied in reference to second-hand retail outlets, e.g. in vintage clothing store. While the concept originated during World War I as a response to textile shortages, vintage dressing encompasses choosing accessories, mixing vintage garments with new, as well as creating an ensemble of various styles and periods. Vintage clothes typically sell at low prices for high-end name brands.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Linsey-woolsey</span> Coarse woven fabric of linen and wool

Linsey-woolsey is a coarse twill or plain-woven fabric woven with a linen warp and a woollen weft. Similar fabrics woven with a cotton warp and woollen weft in Colonial America were also called linsey-woolsey or wincey. The name derives from a combination of lin and wool. This textile has been known since ancient times. Known as shatnez (שַׁעַטְנֵז) in Hebrew, the wearing of this fabric was forbidden in the Torah and hence Jewish law.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wrap dress</span> Dress with a front closure formed by wrapping one side across the other

A wrap dress is generic term for a dress with a front closure formed by wrapping one side across the other, and is fastened at the side or tied at the back. This forms a V-shaped neckline. A faux wrap dress resembles this design, except that it comes already fastened together with no opening in front, but instead is slipped on over the head. A wrap top is a top cut and constructed in the same way as a wrap dress, but without a skirt. The design of wrap-style closure in European garments was the results of the heavy influences of Orientalism which was popular in the 19th century.

The study of the history of clothing and textiles traces the development, use, and availability of clothing and textiles over human history. Clothing and textiles reflect the materials and technologies available in different civilizations at different times. The variety and distribution of clothing and textiles within a society reveal social customs and culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion design</span> Art of applying design and aesthetics to clothing and accessories

Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or jewelry design, or may work in more than one of these areas."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Men's skirts</span> Skirt-like garments worn by men and boys

Outside Western cultures, men's clothing commonly includes skirts and skirt-like garments; however, in the Americas and much of Europe, skirts are usually seen as feminine clothing and socially stigmatized for men and boys to wear, despite having done so for centuries. While there are exceptions, most notably the cassock and the kilt, these are not really considered 'skirts' in the typical sense of fashion wear; rather they are worn as cultural and vocational garments. People have variously attempted to promote the fashionable wearing of skirts by men in Western culture and to do away with this gender distinction.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sustainable fashion</span> Part of design philosophy and trend of sustainability in fashion

Sustainable fashion is a term describing efforts within the fashion industry to reduce its environmental impacts, protect workers producing garments, and uphold animal welfare. Sustainability in fashion encompasses a wide range of factors, including "cutting CO2 emissions, addressing overproduction, reducing pollution and waste, supporting biodiversity, and ensuring that garment workers are paid a fair wage and have safe working conditions".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Anglo-Saxon dress</span> Clothing of Anglo-Saxon England

Anglo-Saxon dress refers to the clothing and accessories worn by the Anglo-Saxons from the middle of the second century to the eleventh century. Archaeological finds in Anglo-Saxon cemeteries have provided the best source of information on Anglo-Saxon costume. It is possible to reconstruct Anglo-Saxon dress using archaeological evidence combined with Anglo-Saxon and European art, writing and literature of the period. Archaeological finds have both supported and contradicted the characteristic Anglo-Saxon costume as illustrated and described by these contemporary sources.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Early medieval European dress</span> Overview

Early medieval European dress, from about 400 AD to 1100 AD, changed very gradually. The main feature of the period was the meeting of late Roman costume with that of the invading peoples who moved into Europe over this period. For a period of several centuries, people in many countries dressed differently depending on whether they identified with the old Romanised population, or the new populations such as Franks, Anglo-Saxons, Visigoths. The most easily recognisable difference between the two groups was in male costume, where the invading peoples generally wore short tunics, with belts, and visible trousers, hose or leggings. The Romanised populations, and the Church, remained faithful to the longer tunics of Roman formal costume, coming below the knee, and often to the ankles. By the end of the period, these distinctions had finally disappeared, and Roman dress forms remained mainly as special styles of clothing for the clergy – the vestments that have changed relatively little up to the present day.

Zero-waste fashion refers to items of clothing that generate little or no textile waste in their production. It can be considered to be a part of the broader sustainable fashion movement. Zero-waste fashion can be divided into two general approaches: pre-consumer zero-waste fashion, which eliminates waste during manufacture, and post-consumer zero-waste fashion, which generates clothing from garments such as second-hand clothing. Historically, zero-waste models have been utilised in folk clothing, including the kimono, sari, and chiton, among others.

A strapless dress or top is a garment that stays put around the upper body without shoulder straps or other visible means of support. It is usually supported by an internal corset and/or brassiere, with the tightness of the bodice preventing the dress from slipping out of position.

Vestoj is an annual academic journal about dress and fashion. The editor-in-chief and publisher is Anja Aronowsky Cronberg.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent</span> Aspect of history

History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent can be traced to the Indus Valley civilization or earlier. Indians have mainly worn clothing made up of locally grown cotton. India was one of the first places where cotton was cultivated and used even as early as 2500 BCE during the Harappan era. The remnants of the ancient Indian clothing can be found in the figurines discovered from the sites near the Indus Valley civilisation, the rock-cut sculptures, the cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. These scriptures view the figures of human wearing clothes which can be wrapped around the body. Taking the instances of the sari to that of turban and the dhoti, the traditional Indian wears were mostly tied around the body in various ways.

Janet Arnold was a British clothing historian, costume designer, teacher, conservator, and author. She is best known for her series of works called Patterns of Fashion, which included accurate scale sewing patterns, used by museums and theatres alike. She went on to write A Handbook of Costume, a book on the primary sources on costume study, and Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, as well as many other books.

<i>Hufu</i> Generic term for non-Han Chinese clothing

Hufu, also referred as Hu clothing, nomadic dress, 'barbarian' clothing or dress, or foreign dress, is a generic term which refers to any clothing which was worn in ancient China and its surrounding regions by non-Han Chinese people. This term is also used to refer to foreigner's dress or clothing of foreign origins in ancient China. The introduction of Hufu-style garments and attire in China occurred by the time of King Wuling of Zhao.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Mida, Ingrid E.; Kim, Alexandra (2015). "1. A brief history of object based research with dress artefacts". The Dress Detective: A Practical Guide to Object-Based Research in Fashion. London: Bloomsbury Publishing. pp. 14–23. ISBN   978-1-4725-7398-8.
  2. Taylor, Lou (2002). "Introduction". The Study of Dress History (1st ed.). Manchester: Manchester University Press. p. 1. ISBN   0-7190-4065-5.
  3. 1 2 Nicklas, Charlotte; Pollen, Annebella (2015). "Introduction: dress history now". In Nicklas, Charlotte; Pollen, Annebella (eds.). Dress History: New Directions in Theory and Practice. London: Bloomsbury Publishing. pp. 4–5. ISBN   978-1-4742-4052-9.
  4. Breward, Christopher (1995). The Culture of Fashion (1st ed.). Manchester: Manchester University Press. pp. 1–5. ISBN   0-7190-4125-2.
  5. Cumming, Valerie (2004). Understanding Fashion History (1st ed.). London: Batsford. ISBN   9780713488753.
  6. Pearce, Susan M., ed. (1999). Interpreting Objects and Collections (4th ed.). London: Routledge. ISBN   0-415-11289-3.
  7. Tortora, Phyllis G. (1998). Survey of Historic Costume: A History of Western Dress. Internet Archive (3rd ed.). New York : Fairchild Publications. pp. xvi, xvii, xviii, ix. ISBN   978-1-56367-142-5.