Martine Rose

Last updated
Martine Rose
Born(1980-11-24)24 November 1980
Education Middlesex University
LabelMartine Rose
Website www.martine-rose.com

Martine Rose (born November 24, 1980) is a British-Jamaican menswear designer and founder of the Martine Rose label. Her designs draw inspiration from her experiences and interest in rave, hip-hop and punk subcultures.

Contents

Early life and education

Rose was born in Croydon, South London in 1980; her family is British and Jamaican. [1] Rose's mother was a nurse and her father was an accountant so she spent much of her time in Tooting with her grandmother and her cousins. [2] After a year at Camberwell College of Arts she enrolled at Middlesex University and graduated in 2002 with a degree in fashion design. [3]

Career

Rose first started a label LMNOP with now-stylist Tamara Rothstein, a friend and frequent collaborator. [4] The line folded in 2005. In 2007 she established her eponymous label focused on menswear. [5]

Since its inception, Rose has been known for showing her collections in non-traditional spaces, including a street market, a community climbing gym, and a cul-de-sac in Camden, London . [6] She has been known to disregard fashion's seasonal calendar and expectations, sometimes because of financial constraints. [7] Some of her collections have been released via short films, [8] digital lookbooks, and Craigslist.

In 2011 she was supported by new talent showcase Fashion East during London Fashion Week. She also collaborated with workwear boots manufacturer CAT on a limited line of boots. [9]

In 2015, when fashion designer Demna Gvesalia joined Balenciaga as creative director, he hired Rose as a consultant, elevating her profile in the fashion industry. [10]

In 2018 Rose released a collaboration with Nike. The release included Rose's take on the tracksuit and Nike's Monarch model. She was inspired by English and American sports culture. [11] The collection was released on Craigslist in London and later sold at retailers. [12]

Her AW20 show took place at Torriano Primary School, her daughter's primary school in Kentish Town. [13]

Design

As a designer, Rose counts her upbringing around her older British-Jamaican cousins who were into raves, reggae, Lovers rock, punk, and dance music as formative. [14] Rose has been influenced by her own experiences at 90s London raves and her awareness of different subcultures in the city coming together around music. [15] Overall, she considers her Jamaican upbringing as a major influence in her attitude towards fashion design and style. [16]

Rose's label developed a cult following, with her designs featuring exaggerated proportions quickly becoming characteristic of her collections earlier on in her career. While considered a menswear designer, Rose designs her pieces with a broad spectrum of people in mind. [17] Her interest in nightlife and music scenes has led her to use fabrics in menswear that are typically more common in womenswear, like fur, satin and lurex. [18]

Awards

2023: British Menswear Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards. [19] [20]

Related Research Articles

Kim Niklas Jones is an English fashion designer. He is a graduate of Central St Martins College of Art and Design.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rick Owens</span> American fashion designer

Richard Saturnino Owens is an American fashion designer from Porterville, California. In addition to his main line, Owens has a furniture line and a number of diffusion lines.

Junya Watanabe is a Japanese fashion designer, a protégé of Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo. He continues to work for Comme des Garcons: His atelier is located on the second floor of its Tokyo headquarters, and he produces four shows a year in Paris.

Carri Munden is an English fashion designer. Born as Carri Munden, she is credited as Carri Mundane and CassettePlaya, her fashion label. She currently works as a stylist and creative director and lives in London.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Comme des Garçons</span> Japanese fashion brand

Comme des Garçons is a Japanese fashion label based in Paris founded by Rei Kawakubo. Its French flagship store is located in Paris. The brand has physical retail stores in London, Melbourne, Seoul, Hong Kong, New York City and in the Aoyama district of Tokyo. Other than fashion, the label has expanded to include jewelry and perfume.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Christopher Raeburn (designer)</span> British fashion designer (born 1982)

Christopher Raeburn (born 13 August 1982) is a British fashion designer, known for reworking surplus fabrics and garments to create menswear, womenswear and accessories.

Nicolas Petrou is a Cypriot-American fashion designer and couturier based in New York City.

Kerby Jean-Raymond is a Haitian American fashion designer who is the founder of the menswear label Pyer Moss.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Virgil Abloh</span> American fashion designer and entrepreneur (1980–2021)

Virgil Abloh was an American fashion designer and entrepreneur. He began his own line of luxury streetwear clothing, Pyrex Vision, in 2012, and became the chief executive officer of the Milan-based label Off-White, a fashion house he founded in 2013. Abloh was also the artistic director of Louis Vuitton's menswear collection beginning in 2018, and was given increased creative responsibilities across the LVMH brand in early 2021.

VETEMENTS started in 2014 as a Swiss luxury fashion house and "design collective" founded by Georgian fashion designers Demna Gvasalia and Guram Gvasalia. The brand experienced near-immediate success, with Demna being hired to Balenciaga after only three collections at Vetements.

Hood By Air is a fashion and streetwear brand based in New York City co-founded by designers Shayne Oliver and Raul Lopez. It was launched in 2006 and took a hiatus 2017–2019. Oliver left the brand in 2023.

Clare Waight Keller is a British stylist and fashion designer, who has served as the artistic director for a number of luxury fashion houses and brands, including Pringle of Scotland, Chloé, and Givenchy. In 2023, she launched a collection with Japanese mass-market brand Uniqlo.2024

Off-White is an Italian luxury fashion house founded by American designer Virgil Abloh. The company was incorporated in Milan in 2013.

Kiko Kostadinov is a Bulgarian fashion designer based in London. He currently is the creative director of his eponymous label as well as British heritage brand Mackintosh's premium line Mackintosh 0001. Kostadinov's work is centered on modern-day uniform and contemporary workwear.

Mowalola Ogunlesi is a Nigerian-born fashion designer and singer working and living in London. She is known for working with a wide variety of textiles such as leather and PVC to produce non-traditional silhouettes inspired by Nigerian and London youth culture.

Matthew M. Williams is an American designer, creative, and entrepreneur. The co-founder of the fashion brand 1017 ALYX 9SM, he was creative director of Givenchy women's and men's collections from June 2020 to January 1, 2024.

Yoon Ahn is an American businesswoman and fashion designer. She studied graphic design at Boston University and graduated in 2000. She is known as the creative director of her brand Ambush and as Dior Men's jewelry design director. Ahn is currently based in Tokyo, Japan.

Paria Farzaneh is an English-born Iranian fashion designer. She is based in London.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">MISBHV</span> Polish fashion label

MISBHV is a Polish streetwear label established by Natalia Maczek in 2014. It is based in Kraków and has around 90 retailers worldwide.

Mel Ottenberg is an American wardrobe stylist and is the editor-in-chief of Interview magazine. Since 2011, he has worked as Rihanna's stylist as well as numerous other high profile musicians, actresses, and celebrities. He lives and works in New York, New York.

References

  1. SSENSE (2017-05-03). "Out of Obscurity". ssense. Retrieved 2020-11-12.
  2. "Meet Martine Rose: the designer standing out from the fashion crowd". Evening Standard. 2019-09-11. Retrieved 2020-11-12.
  3. Fisher, Alice (2017-10-22). "Menswear designer Martine Rose: 'Fashion used to be for outsiders'". The Observer. ISSN   0029-7712 . Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  4. "The Gentlewoman – Martine Rose". thegentlewoman.co.uk. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  5. "Martine ROSE — About". Martine Rose. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  6. "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  7. "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  8. Dazed (2016-01-10). "Martine Rose returns with Sharna Osborne-directed film". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  9. Dazed (2011-07-12). "Martine Rose x CAT Boots". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  10. "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2020-12-09.
  11. "Martine Rose Explains Her Unorthodox Nike Collaboration". Highsnobiety. 2018-12-11. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  12. "The Martine Rose x Nike Collaboration Has a Release Date". Highsnobiety. 2019-01-06. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  13. Petty, Felix. "Martine Rose goes back to school for AW20". i-D. Retrieved 19 April 2021.
  14. "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  15. SSENSE (2017-05-03). "Out of Obscurity". ssense. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  16. "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-12-09.
  17. "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  18. Dazed (2014-01-07). "EXCLUSIVE: Martine Rose AW14 collection". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  19. "Jonathan Anderson, Martine Rose and Sarah Burton among winners at the star-studded Fashion Awards". Vogue. Retrieved 26 March 2024.
  20. "Fashion Awards 2023 : qui sont les grands noms de la mode du palmarès à connaître ?". Madmoizelle. Retrieved 26 March 2024.