Officine Universelle Buly

Last updated

Officine Universelle Buly
TypePrivate
Industry Beauty
Founded2014;9 years ago (2014)
FoundersRamdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami
Headquarters
Paris
,
France
Number of locations
25 stores (2020)
Website www.buly1803.com

Officine Universelle Buly 1803 is a French beauty brand, which was first founded by Jean-Vincent Bully in 1803 on rue Saint-Honore in Paris, and then dusted by the French couple, [1] Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami in 2014. [2] It is headquartered in Paris, France, and has had more than 25 stores around the globe and counting, the brand sells perfumes, scented candles, soaps, plant oils, and other beauty products for body, [3] face and hair, as well as accessories.

Contents

History

Early years

At the beginning of the 19th century, a merchant perfumer, Claude Bully, invented a vinaigre de toilette, [4] a vinegar-based fragrance designed to fight body odours, cure disease, and nourish the skin, which later influenced the perfume industry and popular beauty care sector.

His son, Jean-Vincent Bully, [5] sought validation from doctors and scientists, bringing further recognition to the brand, and the vinegar based product was granted two patents in 1809, a second for a revised product in 1814. Officine Universelle Buly showcased products at the 1823, 1827, and 1849 World Fairs, and at the Great Exhibition in London (in 1851). [6] Pêle-Mêle praised the prodcut in 1904 claiming that “the best vinaigre de toilette … bears the name of Bully vinegar.” In the summer of 1937, Le Figaro mentioned in its Beauty section: "Don't forget to buy a bottle of … Bully vinegar, the object of world renowned for nearly a century."

After the high comes the low: Bully lost his shop due to a riot in the whirlwind of a revolution, and then had to sell his business "for a trifling sum", [7] after which the perfumer died in poverty. His fate is mirrored in Cesar Birotteau, the eponymous protagonist in Balzac’s novel, Scenes from Histoire de la grandeur et de la décadence de César Birotteau from The Human Comedy .

The stores of Claude and Jean-Vincent Bully remained but a memory, yet a "Vinagre Aromatico Tipo de Bully" with the very same formula continued to exist in Latin America due to international licensing; the work of the Bully family had endured, although outside the borders of France.

Creation of Officine Universelle Buly 1803

Rediscovered by Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami, [8] the brand was revived to what is now known as Officine Universelle Buly, or Buly 1803 in short, an emporium of beauty secrets from all around the world.

The first Buly shop was established in 2014, [9] at 6 rue Bonaparte, 75006, Paris, [10] and has seen a fast expansion around the world ever since. As of March 2021, Buly 1803 has 25 shops globally, in cities such as Paris, [11] Hong Kong, [12] New York, [13] San Francisco, London, Tokyo, [14] [15] Kyoto, Seoul, Taipei, Osaka, etc.

Business structure

Officine Universelle Buly was acquired by the multi-national LVMH in October 2021. [16] The company is managed by the duo Ramdane Touhami, the manager, and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami, the head of communication and the spokesperson. The brand now operates in 7 countries in the world and is rapidly expanding.

Products

Officine Universelle Buly carries a wide range of beauty products for body, face, hair and home, [17] with more than 800 variants amassed from around the world. Most of them bear a traditional French name [18] honoring its commitment to old beauty recipes but combined with innovative cosmetic techniques, such as eau triple, the brand’s water-based perfume, containing 0 alcohol. [19]

Collaboration

The Louvre Museum

2019 has seen an unprecedented collaboration between the Louvre museum and O.U.B, [20] [21] [22] [23] [24] [25] [26] with 8 perfumers each selecting 8 art pieces as an inspiration for 8 new fragrances, [27] namely:

Some of the scents are also available in candles, postcards, as well as soap sheets. [30] [31]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fendi</span> Italian enterprise and fashion house

Fendi is an Italian luxury fashion house producing fur, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, fragrances, eyewear, timepieces and accessories. Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi is known for its fur, fur accessories, and leather goods. Since 2001, Fendi has been part of the “Fashion & Leather Goods” division of the French group LVMH. Its headquarters are in Rome, in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Guerlain</span> French perfume house

Guerlain is a French perfume, cosmetics and skincare house, which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the "Guerlinade". The house was founded in Paris in 1828 by the perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. It was run by the Guerlain family until 1994, when it was bought by the French multinational company LVMH. Its flagship store is 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coty (beauty company)</span> French American beauty company

Coty Inc. is an American multinational beauty company founded in 1904 by François Coty. With its subsidiaries, it develops, manufactures, markets, and distributes fragrances, cosmetics, skin care, nail care, and both professional and retail hair care products. Coty owns around 77 brands as of 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Olivia Giacobetti</span> French perfumer

Olivia Giacobetti is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined style as well as innovation such as her novel use of fig in perfumery, popularizing the note beginning in the mid-1990s. She is among the perfumers who became prominent in a late-20th and early-21st-century turn toward the "nose" behind the scent and independent lines that foreground these creators, a shift away from perfumes sold by fashion labels or celebrities in other fields.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Parfums Givenchy</span>

Parfums Givenchy is a French brand of perfumes and cosmetics, known for fragrances L'Interdit, Amarige, Organza, Pi, and Givenchy III. As part of Givenchy, it has been a subsidiary of LVMH since 1988.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nina Ricci (brand)</span> Fashion house founded by Maria "Nina" Ricci

Nina Ricci is a fashion house founded by Maria "Nina" Ricci and her son Robert in Paris in 1932, and owned by the Spanish beauty and fashion group Puig since 1998.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">JOY (perfume)</span>

Joy is a perfume created for Parisian couturier Jean Patou by perfumer Henri Alméras in 1929. It is considered to be one of the greatest fragrances created and is a landmark example of the floral genre in perfumery. It is still produced in France by Designer Parfums, Ltd., in an Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette version.

Francis Kurkdjian is a French perfumer and businessman of Armenian descent. He is best known for creating the men's fragrance Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier in 1995, which has become one of the world's best-selling perfumes. He has since created a further 40 fragrances for major companies worldwide, including Elie Saab Le Parfum for Elie Saab; My Burberry for Burberry; L'extase for Nina Ricci; and Narciso Rodriguez for Her for Narciso Rodriguez, Green Tea for Elizabeth Arden.

Ramdane Touhami is a French-Moroccan artist, creative director and entrepreneur.

Patricia de Nicolaï is a French perfumer who works as the head of her own perfume company Parfums de Nicolai. She is also a member of the technical committee of the French Society of Perfumers and the president of the Osmothèque scent archive.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">S by Shakira</span> Perfume by Shakira

S by Shakira is the first woman's fragrance by Colombian singer songwriter Shakira. Developing an interest in perfumery and scents, Shakira signed an agreement with international fashion company Puig to create a line of beauty and personal care products. S by Shakira is an amber perfume which combines scents of various exotic sources like sambac jasmine, sandalwood, and vanilla. The bottle of the perfume is made of treated glass which reflects light at different angles; it does not have a cap and instead utilises a key-like mechanism to stop the flow of the perfume. Shakira launched S by Shakira at a press release in Madrid, Spain, in June 2010, and it was sent to retail stores in September 2010. Critics praised the scent of S by Shakira, but there was criticism regarding the design of the bottle. It was nominated for a FiFi Award in 2011.

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud is a French perfumer formerly with the Swiss fragrance and flavor company Firmenich, who currently works for Louis Vuitton of the LVMH Luxury Group.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Le Labo</span> Perfume brand

Le Labo is a perfume brand based in New York City and owned by Estée Lauder.

Niche perfume is an alternative to mass perfume production. Niche is limited by the clientele and therefore with a limited sale range, thus the goal of niche houses is not to sell as much as possible.

Aedes de Venustas is a niche perfume store and fragrance line. Aedes has operated in Manhattan since 1995. The house perfume line launched in 2012, although there was an earlier collaboration with L'Artisan Parfumeur creating a home fragrance (2005) and perfume (2008) also named Aedes de Venustas.

Narciso Rodriguez for Her is an eau de toilette-strength perfume launched in September 2003 by fashion designer Narciso Rodriguez and created by perfumers Christine Nagel and Francis Kurkdjian. It has won Fragrance Foundation awards in France and the US, both at its original launch and retrospectively. The original eau de toilette is primarily a musk, amber and orange blossom scent. Narciso Rodriguez subsequently released an eau de parfum version and many other versions, known as flankers, that include other notes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miss Dior Chérie</span> Strawberry and popcorn fragrance by Christine Nagel for Dior

Miss Dior Chérie was a fragrance created by Christine Nagel for Christian Dior. At the time John Galliano served as Dior’s fashion designer and creative director, overseeing Nagel’s development of the unusual, youth-oriented strawberry-and-popcorn eau de parfum. Miss Dior Chérie was available from 2005 to 2011: after perfumer François Demachy joined Dior, Miss Dior Chérie was reformulated and renamed Miss Dior.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Santal 33</span> Le Labo perfume

Santal 33 is a 2011 sandalwood perfume by niche perfume line Le Labo. It was initially proposed as a personal fragrance by perfumer Frank Voelkl, but Le Labo owners Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi cut it from the perfume line for their 2006 launch and asked Voelkl to develop a candle and then a room spray instead, called Santal 26. By 2010 Penot and Roschi acceded to popular demand and asked Voelkl to develop a modified version as a personal perfume, Santal 33, which launched in 2011. Santal 33 quickly gained cult status, then grew into broad popularity, especially after Le Labo sold to Estée Lauder Companies and their fragrances went into much wider distribution. This development drew some disappointment from wearers who had prized its exclusivity.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tom Ford (brand)</span> Italian-American luxury fashion house founded by fashion designer Tom Ford in 2005

Tom Ford SA is a luxury fashion house founded by designer Tom Ford in 2005. Its product line features ready-to-wear and made-to-measure offerings, as well as footwear, accessories, and handbags.

References

  1. "Age-Old Beauty Secrets at Officine Universelle Buly". Wall Street Journal. 20 May 2015. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  2. "L'Officine Universelle Buly 1803 | Womenswear | Shop Online at MATCHESFASHION FR". www.matchesfashion.com. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  3. Golfar, Fiona (12 November 2020). "Immersion therapy: the secrets of a perfect bath". www.ft.com. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  4. "Age-Old Beauty Secrets at Officine Universelle Buly". Wall Street Journal. 20 May 2015. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  5. L'héroïsme de Bully et son vinaigre. - [83] (1847)
  6. Charles Robin, Histoire illustrée de l’exposition universelle.
  7. Eugène-Oscar Lami, Dictionnaire encyclopédique et biographique de l'industrie et des arts industriels. (The Encyclopedic and Biographical Dictionary of Industry and the Industrial Arts).
  8. Cook, Grace (5 December 2019). "Financial Times". www.ft.com. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  9. "Un jour un objet fait en France (5/10, saison 2) : les flacons Buly". Le Monde.fr (in French). 29 January 2021. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  10. Emmrich, Stuart (9 July 2015). "The Power of Perfume". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  11. "L'Officine Universelle Buly rue de Saintonge, l'endroit insolite du Marais à découvrir absolument". Numéro .
  12. FR, FashionNetwork com. "Buly s'installe à Hong Kong". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  13. Ellenberg, Celia (18 April 2017). "A Cultish Parisian Apothecary Opens in New York". Vogue. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  14. Wetherille, Kelly (31 March 2017). "L'Officine Universelle Buly Opens in Tokyo". WWD. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  15. FR, FashionNetwork com. "Le Français Buly ouvre sa première boutique à Tokyo". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  16. "Officine Universelle Buly 1803 joins the LVMH Group". LVMH. 5 October 2021. Retrieved 3 November 2021.
  17. Molvar, Kari (30 May 2019). "The Fresh Appeal of Old-Fashioned Beauty Products". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  18. "Buly, des cosmétiques à l'aura nostalgique". Le Temps (in French). 20 February 2018. ISSN   1423-3967 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  19. Molvar, Kari (21 June 2018). "The Refreshing Appeal of Water-Based Perfumes". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  20. Cook, Grace (26 June 2019). "Now You Can Smell Like The Louvre". Wall Street Journal. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  21. "The art of the scent". www.bbc.co.uk. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  22. "Le Louvre expose Buly". LEFIGARO (in French). 24 June 2019. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  23. Louvre : des chefs-d'œuvre ont leur parfum (in French), retrieved 29 April 2021
  24. Thomas, Lesley. "The Louvre's new perfume collection, as inspired by great works of art". The Times . ISSN   0140-0460 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  25. Cavanagh, Alice (28 September 2019). "T's Beauty Guide to Paris". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  26. FR, FashionNetwork.com. "L'Officine Universelle Buly s'installe au Louvre". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  27. Farrell, Aimee (25 October 2019). "Artistic scents: Perfumers take notes from the gallery". Financial Times. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  28. Asome, Carolyn (8 July 2019). "The scent of luxury? The Louvre commissions fragrances to match its masterpieces for the first time ever". The Telegraph. ISSN   0307-1235 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  29. Sayej, Nadja (13 October 2019). "What Does a Fragonard Smell Like?". Garage. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  30. "Buly Partners With The Louvre To Create Fragrances Based On Art". Haute Living. 11 July 2019. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  31. "The Louvre has created eight perfumes based on its most famous artworks". Lonely Planet. Retrieved 29 April 2021.