Undercut (hairstyle)

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The undercut is a hairstyle that was fashionable from the 1910s to the 1940s, predominantly among men, and saw a steadily growing revival in the 1980s before becoming fully fashionable again in the 2010s. Typically, the hair on the top of the head is long and is often parted on either the side or center, while the back and sides are buzzed very short. [1] It is closely related to the curtained hair of the mid-to-late 1990s, although those with undercuts during the 2010s tended to slick back the bangs away from the face.

Contents

Origins

Wehrmacht soldiers with undercuts in 1942 Bundesarchiv Bild 101I-217-0465-32A, Russland, Soldaten auf dem Marsch.jpg
Wehrmacht soldiers with undercuts in 1942

The "undercut" hairstyle can be dated back to the days of Vikings; however, this style shaved the back of the head with long bangs, not the sides. The purpose was to cool the neck and keep the sun out of the eyes, with the neck also shaven while maintaining a pointy beard on the top.[ citation needed ] Some Native Americans wore a similar style. Ukrainian oseledets are a variation on this style.

Historically, the undercut has been associated with poverty and inability to afford a barber competent enough to blend in the sides, as on a short back and sides haircut. From the turn of the 20th century until the 1920s, the undercut was popular among young working-class men, especially members of street gangs. In interwar Glasgow, the Neds (precursors to the Teddy Boys) favored a haircut that was long on top and cropped at the back and sides. Despite the fire risk, much paraffin wax was used to keep the hair in place. [2] Other gangs who favored this haircut were the Scuttlers of Manchester and the Peaky Blinders of Birmingham, because longer hair put the wearer at a disadvantage in a street fight. [3]

During the jazz age of the 1920s and 1930s, hairstyles of this type were considered mainstream fashion. [4] Military barbers of the World War I era gave short back and sides haircuts as fast as possible because of the numbers, under orders to facilitate personal hygiene in trench warfare, and as nearly uniform as possible, with an eye to appearance on parade. This made the short back and sides style the norm in the UK after 1918, and its variant the brush cut became common in North America and France. [5] In Nazi Germany, a version of this haircut which was long on top but shaved at the back and sides was popular among Wehrmacht soldiers. [6] [7] The undercut remained common in the UK and America until the 1960s, when longer hair such as the wings haircut was popularised by the mod subculture and British Invasion bands such as The Beatles and The Rolling Stones.

Revival

Macklemore with an undercut in 2016 Macklemore Ryan Lewis Live 2016 (4 von 20).jpg
Macklemore with an undercut in 2016

Beginning in the late 1980s, centrally parted undercuts derived from the bowl cut made a comeback among fans of new wave, synthpop, and electronic music as an alternative to the mullets and backcombed hair of glam metal bands. [7] A collar-length version of the bowl cut, known as curtained hair, went mainstream in the early 1990s and was worn by many celebrities, most notably Tom Cruise. [8] Another variant, with a floppy permed fringe, was known as the "meet me at McDonald's haircut" due to its perceived popularity among young teenagers in the UK who socialise in and around McDonald's restaurants. [9]

Curtained hair and undercuts went out of style in the early 2000s, but underwent a revival in the early 2010s among hipsters and skaters who imitated the 1930s and 1940s version: longer with pomade in or swept to one side on top and shaved or clipped at the sides. [7] At the time, although the style had many different names, the most controversial were the "Hitler Youth", [1] [7] [10] "Jugend", [11] and "fasci". [12] Some of the most high-profile early adopters of this haircut included Macklemore, [13] Kim Jong Un, [14] David Beckham, and Win Butler. [1]

During the late 2000s and early 2010s, undercuts were often associated with villainous movie characters such as Hannibal Lecter in Hannibal Rising , Johnny Depp's portrayal of gangster John Dillinger in Public Enemies , Jared Leto as The Joker in Suicide Squad , Guy Pearce in Lawless , and various German officers in war films. [15] Characters from television series such as Jimmy Darmody on HBO's Boardwalk Empire and various characters from the BBC series Peaky Blinders were also associated with the undercut. By 2014, the haircut had become relatively mainstream in the UK and was worn by people not normally associated with the indie scene, such as reality television stars from shows like The Only Way Is Essex . [16]

During the late 2010s, the American and Israeli press associated the undercut with alt-right agitators such as the American white supremacist Richard Spencer or the British far-right and anti-Islam activist Stephen Yaxley-Lennon (Tommy Robinson) [17] and with neofascist supporters seeking a less intimidating alternative to the buzzcut. [18] [19]

In some Muslim-majority countries such as Saudi Arabia, [20] the undercut is considered controversial and in breach of Islamic teachings governing hairstyles. [21] According to the Ḥadīth literature, the Islamic prophet Muhammad forbade traditional Pagan Arab haircuts that were long on top but shaved on the sides as makruh . [22] [23]

In the early 2020s, the middle parted undercut is coming back due to the e-boy subculture on the social media network TikTok.[ citation needed ] Although, in the UK, middle parted undercuts (curtains) have been popular in the Irish Traveller community for years.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Skinhead</span> Working-class youth sub-culture

A skinhead or skin is a member of a subculture that originated among working-class youths in London, England, in the 1960s. It soon spread to other parts of the United Kingdom, with a second working-class skinhead movement emerging worldwide in the late 1970s. Motivated by social alienation and working-class solidarity, skinheads are defined by their close-cropped or shaven heads and working-class clothing such as Dr. Martens and steel toe work boots, braces, high rise and varying length straight-leg jeans, and button-down collar shirts, usually slim fitting in check or plain. The movement reached a peak at the end of the 1960s, experienced a revival in the 1980s, and, since then, has endured in multiple contexts worldwide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mullet (haircut)</span> Hairstyle

The mullet is a hairstyle in which the hair is cut shorter at the front, top and sides, but is longer at the back.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">High and tight</span> Hairstyle

The high and tight is a military variant of the crew cut. It is a very short hairstyle, characterized by the back and sides of the head being shaved to the skin and the option for the top to be blended or faded into slightly longer hair. It is most commonly worn by men in the U.S. armed forces. It is also popular with law enforcement officers and other public safety personnel. Although "high and tight" is the primary term used in military and law enforcement, the same haircut is sometimes referred to by civilians as a "walker".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crew cut</span> Haircut style

A crew cut is a type of haircut in which the upright hair on the top of the head is cut relatively short, graduated in length from the longest hair that forms a short pomp (pompadour) at the front hairline to the shortest at the back of the crown so that in side profile, so the outline of the top hair approaches the horizontal. Relative to the front view, and to varying degrees, the outline of the top hair can be arched or flattened at the short pomp front and rounded or flattened over the rest of the top to complement the front hairline, head shape, face shape and facial features. The hair on the sides and back of the head is usually tapered short, semi-short, or medium.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mohawk hairstyle</span> Hairstyle

The mohawk is a hairstyle in which, in the most common variety, both sides of the head are shaven, leaving a strip of noticeably longer hair in the center. Mohawk hairstyles have existed for thousands of years. As of the 21st century, they are most commonly associated with non-conformity.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bowl cut</span> Hairstyle

A bowl cut is a simple haircut where the front hair is cut with a straight fringe and the rest of the hair is left longer, the same length all the way around, or else the sides and back are cut to the same short length. It is named so because in medieval times, when it was popular in Europe, a bowl would be placed on the head and then used as a cutting guide to trim the hair.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pomade</span> Hairstyling product

Pomade is a greasy, waxy, or water-based substance that is used to style hair. It generally gives the user's hair a shiny, slick appearance. It lasts longer than most hair-care products, and often requires multiple washes for complete removal. The pomades of the 18th and 19th centuries consisted mainly of bear fat or lard. Lanolin, beeswax and petroleum jelly have been used extensively in modern pomades. The hold of pomades makes sculptured hairstyles such as the pompadour waves (hairstyle) possible.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Flattop</span> Hairstyle

A flattop is a type of haircut where the hair on the top of the head is cut and styled upright to form a flat profile when viewed from the front or side.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hi-top fade</span> Hairstyle

Hi-top fade is a haircut where hair on the sides is cut off or kept very short while hair on the top of the head is grown long.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bun (hairstyle)</span> Type of hairstyle

A bun is a type of hairstyle in which the hair is pulled back from the face, twisted or plaited, and wrapped in a circular coil around itself, typically on top or back of the head or just above the neck. A bun can be secured with a hair tie, barrette, bobby pins, one or more hair sticks, a hairnet, or a pen or pencil. Hair may also be wrapped around a piece called a "rat". Alternatively, hair bun inserts, or sometimes rolled up socks, may also be used to create donut-shaped buns. Buns may be tightly gathered, or loose and more informal.

Curtained hair or curtains is a hairstyle featuring a long fringe divided in either a middle parting or a side parting, with short sides and back. Curtained hair generally applies to males, although an alternative name, the undercut, is used for both male and female haircuts following this style. Variations on this haircut have been popular in Europe, North America, and Japan throughout the 20th century and in the 21st century, peaking between 1986 and 2001.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Asymmetric cut</span> Haircut

An asymmetric cut is a haircut in which the hair is cut in such a way that the hair does not have left-right symmetry and one side is cut or appears to be longer than the other. It is a versatile hairstyle with many subvariations. Usually it is a combination of two separate styles, one for each side. An extreme variation is the "side shave", in which one side of the head is totally or partially shaved close.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eponymous hairstyle</span> Hairstyle associated with a particular individual

An eponymous hairstyle is a particular hairstyle that has become fashionable during a certain period of time through its association with a prominent individual.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rattail (hairstyle)</span> Tail-like hair style

A rattail is a hair style that is characterized by a long "tail"-like element of hair growing downward from the back of the head. The rattail usually hangs naturally; however, it can be braided, treated as a dread, permed, straightened, poofed, or curled with an iron. In some instances, an individual might choose to grow several tails as opposed to a single very long tail. A rattail is characterised by hair longer than the rest of the hair surrounding it.

The Rachel haircut, commonly known as simply "The Rachel", is an eponymous hairstyle popularized by American actress Jennifer Aniston. Named after Rachel Green, the character she played on the American sitcom Friends (1994–2004), Aniston debuted the haircut during the show's first season, and continued to wear it throughout its second season while the series was nearing peak popularity. Designed by Aniston's hairstylist Chris McMillan to repair her damaged hair and grow out her bangs, "The Rachel" is a voluminous shoulder-length haircut, with several distinct layers that frame and turn outwards from its wearer's face. It has been described as a variation on both the shag and bob haircuts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wings (haircut)</span> Haircut Style

The wings haircut, also known the Mod haircut, Mop top, flippies, flow, Justin Bieber haircut, or skater hair is a popular hairstyle used in the skateboarding, surfer, mod, and preppy community. Typically long, the style can range from long and drooping below the eyes, to a shorter length. The haircut is typically wavy and, if straight, the length comes to halfway down the ears. Instead of lying on the wearer's ears, the hair flips up and comes straight out like an airplane wing, hence the name. The hairstyle was popular among men in the 1960s, 1970s, mid-late 2000s, early 2010s and 2020s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pompadour (hairstyle)</span> Hairstyle

The pompadour is a hairstyle named after Madame de Pompadour (1721–1764), a mistress of King Louis XV of France. Although there are numerous variations of the style for men, women, and children, the basic concept is having a large volume of hair swept upwards from the face and worn high over the forehead, and sometimes upswept around the sides and back as well.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">2010s in fashion</span> Fashion-related events during the 2010s

The 2010s were defined by hipster fashion, athleisure, a revival of austerity-era period pieces and alternative fashions, swag-inspired outfits, 1980s-style neon streetwear, and unisex 1990s-style elements influenced by grunge and skater fashions. The later years of the decade witnessed the growing importance in the western world of social media influencers paid to promote fast fashion brands on Pinterest and Instagram.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Regular haircut</span> Simple hairstyle popular among males

A regular haircut, in Western fashion, is a men's and boys' hairstyle that has hair long enough to comb on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a short, semi-short, medium, long, or extra long back and sides. The style is also known by other names including taper cut, regular taper cut, side-part and standard haircut; as well as short back and sides, business-man cut and professional cut, subject to varying national, regional, and local interpretations of the specific taper for the back and sides.

Secular laws regulating hairstyles exist in various countries and institutions.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Douglas, Joanna (17 November 2011). "'Hitler Youth' Haircut Gaining Popularity". Yahoo! Shine. Archived from the original on 2 April 2013. Retrieved 8 April 2013.
  2. ↑ Christie, Stuart (2002). My Granny Made Me an Anarchist. Oil & Gas USSR. pp. 87–88. ISBN   1-873976-14-3.
  3. ↑ Davies, Andrew (1998). "Youth gangs, masculinity and violence in late Victorian Manchester and Salford". Journal of Social History. 32 (2): 349–369. doi:10.1353/jsh/32.2.349. JSTOR   3789665.
  4. ↑ "CFCA - Hitler Youth haircuts becoming very popular in New York City". 27 October 2017. Archived from the original on 2018-03-07. Retrieved 2018-03-07.
  5. ↑ "A bloke writes: The barber, my father and a short back and sides | the Independent". Independent.co.uk . 8 August 1998. Archived from the original on 2018-06-13. Retrieved 2018-06-12.
  6. ↑ "WWII German haircut". Archived from the original on 2018-07-12. Retrieved 2018-07-20.
  7. 1 2 3 4 Williams, Alex (15 November 2011). "A Haircut Returns From the 1930s". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 8 June 2013. Retrieved 8 April 2013.
  8. ↑ "Tom Cruise's Changing Looks". Archived from the original on 2015-09-06. Retrieved 2015-09-16.
  9. ↑ "Mcdonalds haircut banned". 22 February 2018. Archived from the original on 2018-06-21. Retrieved 2018-06-21.
  10. ↑ Ramshield, Democrats (February 18, 2014). "Comeback of the Hitler Youth haircut worries Jewish and progressive groups fearing intolerance". Archived from the original on October 9, 2015. Retrieved September 16, 2015– via Daily Kos.
  11. ↑ "'Hitler Youth Hairdo' -Silly Fashion Statement or anti-Semitism?". 21 November 2011. Archived from the original on 2015-05-19. Retrieved 2015-09-16.
  12. ↑ Dvorak, Petula (December 12, 2016). "It's 4 a.m. at MGM. Do you know where your money is?". Washington Post . Archived from the original on 2016-12-13. Retrieved 2016-12-13. There were a few hipsters with fasci haircuts and ZZ Top beards at the "Walking Dead" slot machines, drinking beers.
  13. ↑ Thurm, Eric (27 August 2015). "Macklemore is Back, and He Brought an Army of Mopeds". Paper . Archived from the original on 8 October 2015. Retrieved 16 September 2015.
  14. ↑ "10 Things You Think Make You Look Cool But Really Don't". Archived from the original on 2015-09-20. Retrieved 2015-09-16.
  15. ↑ "30 Cool and Fantastic Cristiano Ronaldo Haircut Styles". Ringmyfashion.com. 17 November 2016. Archived from the original on 15 April 2017. Retrieved 14 April 2017.
  16. ↑ Dries, Kate (April 14, 2014). "Every Dude You Know Is Getting This Haircut". Archived from the original on September 21, 2015. Retrieved September 16, 2015– via Jezebel.
  17. ↑ Christian, Scott (August 15, 2017). "This Wildly Popular Haircut Has a Serious Neo-Nazi Problem". Esquire . Archived from the original on March 21, 2017. Retrieved March 20, 2017.
  18. ↑ Baharir, Ruth Perl (8 February 2017). "From hipster fad to neo-Nazi tagHow America's alt-right got its signature hairstyle". Haaretz. Archived from the original on 21 March 2017. Retrieved 20 March 2017.
  19. ↑ Hesse, Monica; Zak, Dan (November 30, 2016). "Does this haircut make me look like a Nazi?". Washington Post . Archived from the original on January 13, 2018. Retrieved January 10, 2018.
  20. ↑ "Saudis arrested for forbidden haircuts". Archived from the original on 2018-05-11. Retrieved 2018-05-10.
  21. ↑ "AGL players told get haircuts or face bans". Archived from the original on 2018-08-13. Retrieved 2018-01-21.
  22. ↑ "Hairstyles forbidden by the Prophet". Archived from the original on 2018-05-11. Retrieved 2018-05-10.
  23. ↑ "Sahih Bukhari Volume 007, Book 072, Hadith Number 803". Archived from the original on 2018-05-11. Retrieved 2018-05-10.
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