International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation

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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation.png
Sport Mountaineering
Climbing
JurisdictionInternational
AbbreviationUIAA
FoundedAugust 1932;91 years ago (1932-08)
Headquarters Bern, Switzerland
President Peter Muir
Official website
www.theuiaa.org

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union internationale des associations d'alpinisme (UIAA; French for 'International Union of Alpine Clubs '), was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France when 20 mountaineering associations met for an alpine congress. Count Charles Egmond d'Arcis, from Switzerland, was chosen as the first president and it was decided by the founding members that the UIAA would be an international federation which would be in charge of the "study and solution of all problems regarding mountaineering". [1] The UIAA Safety Label was created in 1960 and was internationally approved in 1965 and currently (2015) has a global presence on five continents with 86 member associations in 62 countries representing over 3 million people. [2]

Contents

After the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine, the UIAA suspended all UIAA officials from Russia, and delegates from the Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) and Russian officials and athletes were excluded from all UIAA-sanctioned activities and events. [3]

Role

The UIAA is today the international governing body of climbing and mountaineering and represents climbers and mountaineers around the world on a wide range of issues related to mountain safety, sustainability, and competition sport.

The International Climbers' Meet, the goal of these meets is to foster goodwill and cultural understanding through our shared passion of climbing by hosting a diverse group of climbing abilities from a multitude of countries.

Safety

The UIAA Safety Commission develops and maintains safety standards for climbing equipment. These standards are implemented worldwide by the manufacturers who also participate in annual Safety Commission meetings. The commission works with nearly 60 manufacturers worldwide and has 1,861 products certified.

Dynamic Rope UIAA fall count rating The test to determine the fall count uses a 5.1m rope and drops a weight (80 kg single rope / 55 kg double rope) so that it falls 4.8m before experiencing a reaction force from the rope. This means that the weight is falling below the fixed end and there is minimal rope to stretch and absorb the force. The fall count rating is the number of times the rope can undergo this test before breaking. For the dynamic rope to be UIAA certified it requires a fall count rating of 5 or more. [4]

This number does not indicate that the rope needs to be discarded after this many falls while climbing, since a fall would usually not have the climber fall beyond the belayer and there is usually more rope to stretch and absorb the fall. There have been no recorded accidents of a UIAA-certified dynamic rope breaking without there being damage from a sharp edge or chemical.

Mountain Medicine Diploma Together with the International Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) and the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR), in 1997 at Interlaken, Switzerland the UIAA Medical Commission established and developed a joint Diploma in Mountain Medicine setting minimum requirements for courses in mountain medicine. Many course organizers adopted these standards and the Diploma in Mountain Medicine (DiMM) has become a widely respected qualification.

The Medical Commission was founded in 1981. Its history dates back to an earlier time when there were only a few doctors representing the largest mountaineering federations. The commission has grown to include 22 delegated doctors from 18 different mountaineering federations, as well as 16 corresponding members from all over the world. The UIAA Medical Commission has worked very closely with the Medical Commission of the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR). The current presidents of the UIAA Medical Commission and the MedCom ICAR are always on the advisory board of the ISMM.

Competitions

Ice climbing The UIAA is the world governing body for competition ice climbing. The annual UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup circuit and the bi-annual World Championship and Youth World Championship are organized in different continents with athletes from over 30 countries participating.

There are two ice-climbing disciplines, Speed and Lead. In Speed, athletes race up an ice face for the best time. In Lead-competitions, the climbers' ability to master a difficult route in a given time is tested.

Anti-Doping Commission The UIAA has adopted the World Anti-Doping Code (2014); this includes the mandatory articles of the Code and all relevant International Standards. The commission also oversees the anti-doping testing of athletes who participate in UIAA ice-climbing competitions.

Global Youth Summit The Global Youth Summit is a series of UIAA youth events where young mountaineers from around the world come together to climb, promote peace and cooperation between countries, and work on the protection of the environment. First implemented ten years ago, it consists of a series of expeditions and camps offered by UIAA member federations to other UIAA member federations and their members.

All UIAA Global Youth Summit events are organized and undertaken in strict accordance with the relevant Federation's regulations and UIAA Youth Commission Handbook & UIAA Youth Commission criteria and recommendations governing such events. Once approved the National Federation or event organiser and their designated leaders have responsibility for the event. The UIAA Youth Commission and UIAA Office may on occasion appoint other responsible persons such as trainers, event organizers, and partners.

Safety Label holders

Source: [5]

Presidents

Source: [10]

Members

CountryAssociationMember since
Flag of Andorra.svg  Andorra Federacio Andorrana de Muntanyisme (FAM)1982
Flag of Argentina.svg  Argentina Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo (FASA)1951
Flag of Azerbaijan.svg  Azerbaijan Mountaineering Federation of Azerbaijan Republic (AAF)2011
Flag of Azerbaijan.svg  Azerbaijan Azerbaijan Air and Extreme Sports Federation (FAIREX)2011
Flag of Belgium (civil).svg  Belgium Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium (CMBEL)1932
Flag of Bosnia and Herzegovina.svg  Bosnia and Herzegovina Mountaineering Union of Bosnia - Herzegovina (PSBH)1997
Flag of Brazil.svg  Brazil Confederação Brasileira de Montanhismo e Escalada (CBME)2005
Flag of Bulgaria.svg  Bulgaria Bulgarian Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (BCMF)1935
Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada Alpine Club of Canada (ACC)1947
Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada Ecole Nationale d'Escalade du Québec (ENEQ)2002
Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME)1975
Flag of Chile.svg  Chile Federación de Andinismo de Chile (FEACH)1955
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA)1985
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China China Hong Kong Mountaineering and Climbing Union (CHKMCU)1988
Flag of Cyprus.svg  Cyprus Mountaineering and Climbing Federation of Cyprus (KOMOA)2007
Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea Corean Alpine Club (CAC)1969
Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea Korean Alpine Federation (KAF)1969
Flag of Croatia.svg  Croatia Hrvatski planinarski savez (HPS)1991
Flag of Denmark.svg  Denmark Dansk Bjergklub (DB)1977
Flag of Denmark.svg  Denmark Dansk Klatreforbund (DCF)1998
Flag of Finland.svg  Finland Finnish Climbing Association (FCA)1994
Flag of France.svg  France Fédération Française des clubs alpins et de montagne (FFCAM)1932
Flag of Georgia.svg  Georgia Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia (MCAG)1993
Flag of Japan.svg  Japan Japan Mountaineering Association (JMA)1967
Flag of Greece.svg  Greece Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (EOOA)1936
Flag of India.svg  India Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)1981
Flag of India.svg  India Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI)2011
Flag of India.svg  India Nehru Institute for Mountaineering (NIM)2011
Flag of Iran.svg  Iran I.R. Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation (I.R.IMSCF)1972
Flag of Ireland.svg  Ireland Mountaineering Ireland (MCI)2004
Flag of Israel.svg  Israel The Israeli Alpine Club (ILAC)2009
Flag of Italy.svg  Italy Alpenverein Südtirol (AVS)1974
Flag of Italy.svg  Italy Club Alpino Italiano (CAI)1932
Flag of Italy.svg  Italy International Skyrunning Federation (ISF)2011
Flag of Kosovo.svg  Kosovo Kosovo Mountaineering and Alpinist Federation (KMAF)2011
Flag of Latvia.svg  Latvia Latvijas Alpinistu Savieniba (LAA)1992
Flag of Liechtenstein.svg  Liechtenstein Liechtensteiner Alpenverein (LAV)1959
Flag of Lithuania.svg  Lithuania Lithuanian Mountaineering Association (LMA)1991
Flag of Luxembourg.svg  Luxembourg Fédération Luxembourgeoise d'Escalade, de Rendonnée Sportive et d'Alpinisme (FLERA)1960
Flag of Malta.svg  Malta Malta Climbing Club (MCC) 2017
Flag of North Macedonia.svg  North Macedonia FYR Macedonian Mountain Sport Federation (MMSF)1999
Flag of Mexico.svg  Mexico Federación Mexicana de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada AC (FMDME)1947
Flag of Monaco.svg  Monaco Club Alpin Monégasque (CAM)1994
Flag of Mongolia.svg  Mongolia National Mountaineering Federation of Mongolia (NMF)2010
Flag of Nepal.svg  Nepal Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)1975
Flag of Norway.svg  Norway Norges Klatreforbund (NK)1993
Flag of Norway.svg  Norway Norsk Tindeklub (NTK)1965
Flag of New Zealand.svg  New Zealand New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC)1932
Flag of the Netherlands.svg  Netherlands Royal Dutch Mountaineering and Climbing Club (NKBV)1932
Flag of Pakistan.svg  Pakistan Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP)1979
Flag of Poland.svg  Poland Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA)1932
Flag of Portugal.svg  Portugal Clube Nacional de Montanhismo (CNM)1955
Flag of Portugal.svg  Portugal Federação de Campismo e Montanhismo de Portugal (FCMP)1992
Flag of Portugal.svg  Portugal Federação Portuguesa de Montanhismo e Escalada (FPME)2004
Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic Cesky Horolezecky Svaz (CMA)1932
Flag of the Dominican Republic.svg  Dominican Republic Associación Dominicana De Escalada y Montañismo (ADEM)2010
Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  United Kingdom British Mountaineering Council (BMC)1947- [11] [12]
Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  United Kingdom The Alpine Club (TAC)1934 (1932-1947 [13] or 1934-1947 [14] and 2003-)
Flag of Romania.svg  Romania Clubul Alpin Român (CAR)1937
Flag of Romania.svg  Romania Federația Română de Alpinism și Escaladă (FRAE)1990
Flag of Russia.svg  Russia Climbing Federation of Russia (CFR) (athletes and officials excluded) [15] 2004
Flag of Russia.svg  Russia Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) (athletes and officials excluded) [16] 2007
Flag of Serbia.svg  Serbia Mountaineering Association of Serbia (PSS)2002
Flag of Slovakia.svg  Slovakia Slovensky Horolezecky Spolok JAMES (SMU JAMES)1932
Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS)1991
Flag of the United States (23px).png  United States Alaskan Alpine Club (ALAC)1985
Flag of the United States (23px).png  United States American Alpine Club (AAC)1932
Flag of South Africa.svg  South Africa The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA)1992
Flag of Spain.svg  Spain Centre Excursionista de Catalunya (CEC)1932
Flag of Spain.svg  Spain Euskal Mendizale Federazioa (EMF)2002
Flag of Spain.svg  Spain Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC)2000
Flag of Spain.svg  Spain Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME)1932
Flag of Sweden.svg  Sweden Svenska Klätterförbundet (SKF)1973
Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg  Switzerland Schweizer Alpen-Club (SAC)1932
Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg  Switzerland Vereinigung Akademischer Alpenclubs der Schweiz (VAACS)1985
Flag of Chinese Taipei for Olympic games.svg  Chinese Taipei Chinese Taipei Alpine Association (CTAA)1989
Flag of Chinese Taipei for Olympic games.svg  Chinese Taipei Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association (CTMA)1993
Flag of Turkey.svg  Turkey Turkiye Dagcilik Federasyonu (TDF)1967
Flag of Ukraine.svg  Ukraine Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation (UMF)1991
Flag of Hungary.svg  Hungary Magyar Hegy- és Sportmászó Szövetség (MHSSZ)1932
Flag of Hungary.svg  Hungary Magyar Sportturisztikai Szövetség (MSTSZ)2003

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