Wrap dress

Last updated
Wrap dress
Diane von Furstenberg Spring-Summer 2014 18.jpg
TypeA garment with wrap over front closure
MaterialDiverse
Place of origin Asia, especially influenced by China and Japan
Introduced Europe and United States

A wrap dress is generic term for a dress with a front closure formed by wrapping one side across the other, and is fastened at the side or tied at the back. [1] This forms a V-shaped neckline. A faux wrap dress resembles this design, except that it comes already fastened together with no opening in front, but instead is slipped on over the head. A wrap top is a top cut and constructed in the same way as a wrap dress, but without a skirt. The design of wrap-style closure in European garments was the results of the heavy influences of Orientalism which was popular in the 19th century. [2] [note 1]

Contents

History

Wrap-over neckline which closes to the right side originated in China and can be traced back to the Shang dynasty (1600 to 1046 B.C) before spreading to other countries (such as Korea and Japan) while wrap-over neckline which closes to the left were basic styles of garments which were widely used in Central Asia and East Asia, as well as Europe, from West Asia. [3]

East Asia

China

Woman wearing a jiaoling pao with a wide belt enclosing the waist, Tang dynasty Tang dynasty woman wearing a cross-collared robe Tang Zhou Fang Diao Qin Chuo Ming Tu  (cropped).jpg
Woman wearing a jiaoling pao with a wide belt enclosing the waist, Tang dynasty

The traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, Hanfu , are traditionally loose, wrap-style garments; these include wrap-style robes, such as the ancient shenyi (which sews a top and a skirt to form a dress), the zhiduo , the daopao , and the jiaoling pao (a one-piece dress), etc., as well as wrap-style upper garments, such as the chang'ao and ru , etc., and as short-sleeved or sleeveless wrap-style upper garment such as banbi and dahu , etc. [note 2] The Chinese wrap-over neckline typically closes on the right side like the alphabetic letter《y》and is referred as jiaoling youren (Chinese :交领右衽; lit.'intersecting collar right lapel') but can occasionally close on the left side under some circumstances in a style known as jiaoling zuoren (Chinese :交领左衽; lit.'intersecting collar left lapel'). [note 3]

Lacquer painting from State of Ch'u (Chu Guo ), discovered in Ching-men city (Jing Men ) 01 (Cropped).jpg
Quju shenyi tied with a large sash, China, 704–223 B.C.
Zhiju1.jpg
Zhiju shenyi, a form of long wrap robe created by sewing wrap top to a skirt, typically worn with a sash, China
Sjhhanfu.jpg
Sai Jinhua in a long-length paofu; a type of hanfu, 1920s
Zhi Ju Su Sha Dan Yi , 2018-09-28.jpg
Zhiju shenyi, unearthed from the Mawangdui tomb, Han dynasty

Japan

The jiaoling youren was adopted by the Japanese in 718 AD through the Yoro Code which stipulated that all robes had to be closed from the left to the right in a typical Chinese way. [4]

Shu Ping Juan Di Mei Shu Mo Yang Zhao Wu -Kimono with Blossoming Plum Tree MET DP330776.jpg
Kimono, second half of 19th century
Kosode-kimono.gif
Wrap-design of the Japanese kosode and kimono

Wrap-style garments which were tied with sash have very ancient origins in China and were later introduced in Japan influencing the design of the kimono . [5] :122 The kimono originated from the Chinese jiaoling pao , which gained popularity in the 8th-century Japanese court. [6]

Orientalism, Europe, and America

Design of a San Toy published in 1901.png
San Toy (#4777), the Ladies' Chinese dressing or lounging sack, a design published in 1901 in The Delineator, Volume 57, p. 210
The Chinese Summer dress.png
Chinese-style garments, including a wrap-top tied with belt, designed by US designers in 1910s, published from the Chinese Summer dress from Ladies’ Home Journal of June 1913: Vol 30 Issue 6, page 26 and 27
Chinese and Japanese inspired wrap top.png
Differences between the wrap closure of Chinese and Japanese inspired wrap-top, early 1900s, images from The Delineator, Volume 58, published in1901.
Japanese and Chinese wrap-top and wrap-robe 1900s.png
Japanese-style vs Chinese-style wrap-top and wrap-robe in the 1900s, American fashion, from The Delineator, Volume 56, published in 1900

European clothing with wrap-style closure were heavily influenced by the popularity of Orientalism in the 19th century. [2] [note 4] In the 20th century, Chinoiserie in fashion gained popularity and impacted many fashion designers of the time, including fashion designed based in the United States. According to the Ladies’ Home Journal of June 1913, volume 30, issue 6:

Interest in the political and civic activities of the new China, which is more or less world-wide at this time, led the designers of this page [p.26] and the succeeding one [p.27] to look to that country for inspiration for clothes that would be unique and new and yet fit in with present-day modes and the needs and environments of American women [...]

Ladies’ Home Journal: The Chinese Summer Dress, published in June 1913: Vol 30, issue 6, p. 26

Chinoiserie continued to be popular in the 1920s and was a major influence in the dress feature and fashion design of this period; simultaneously, Japonisme also had a profound impact by influencing new forms of clothing designs of this period; for example, the use of wrap top and obi-like sash as an influence of the Japanese Kimono . [7]

Wrap dress from the Ladies' home journal published in 1948. The Ladies' home journal (1948) (14581973009).jpg
Wrap dress from the Ladies' home journal published in 1948.

During the Great Depression, house dresses called "Hooverettes" were popular which employed a wrap design. Wrap dresses were designed by Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s [8] [9] and by Claire McCardell in the 1940s, whose original 'popover' design, which was made out of denim, became the basis for a variety of wrap-around dresses. [10] :105 [11] Fashion designer Charles James also designed a wrap dress. [12]

In the early 1970s, Orientalism re-emerged as the West officially expressed eagerness towards the Far East. Oriental fashion, thus, re-surfaced in American fashion wear; American designers also showed these Oriental influences in their creation designs. [13] :112 The wrap-around lounging wear, which was inspired by the native Chinese dress, gained popularity among women during this period. [13] :112

Diane von Fürstenberg's wrap dress

1960s wrap dress: the navy bindings highlight the wrap-over. Till boken - utstallningen Kunglig Vintage - Livrustkammaren - 87644.tif
1960s wrap dress: the navy bindings highlight the wrap-over.

Although it is often claimed that Diane von Fürstenberg 'invented' what is known as the wrap dress in 1972/73, [14] Richard Martin, a former curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, noted that the form of Fürstenberg's design had already been "deeply embedded into the American designer sportswear tradition," with her choice of elastic, synthetic fabrics distinguishing her work from earlier wrap dresses. [15] Her design is actually a two-pieces dress where a wrap top is sewn to a skirt, [10] :105 similar to the making of the Chinese shenyi.

The Fürstenberg interpretation of the wrap dress, which was consistently knee-length, in a clinging jersey, with long sleeves, was so popular and so distinctive that the style has generally become associated with her. [16] [17] [18] She has stated that her divorce inspired the design, [19] and also suggested it was created in the spirit of enabling women to enjoy sexual freedom. [20] The wrap dress that she designed in 1974 was a design re-interpretation of the Kimono . [10] :105

Michelle Obama wearing a Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress in 2010 Michelle Obama in Mexico 2010.jpg
Michelle Obama wearing a Diane von Fürstenberg wrap dress in 2010

Wrap dresses achieved their peak of popularity in the mid to late 1970s, and the design has been credited with becoming a symbol of women's liberation in the 1970s. [21] [22] They experienced renewed popularity beginning in the late 1990s, particularly after von Fürstenberg reintroduced her wrap dress in 1997; she, among others, has continued to design wrap dresses since then. [17] [23] The wrap dress's popularity and its quick disrobing, and perceived feminist significance have remained current into the mid-2010s. [22] In 2004 a book dedicated entirely to Fürstenberg's wrap dresses was published. [24]

See also


Notes

  1. Such as British tea gowns of the 19th century
  2. See the relevant pages for sources and more detail information; other wrap-style Chinese garments could also include the Banbi
  3. See the page Garment collars in Hanfu for sources and more detail information
  4. Such as British tea gowns of the 19th century

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Japanese clothing</span> Japanese clothing, traditional and modern

There are typically two types of clothing worn in Japan: traditional clothing known as Japanese clothing, including the national dress of Japan, the kimono, and Western clothing, which encompasses all else not recognised as either national dress or the dress of another country.

<i>Cheongsam</i> Fitted dress in Chinese culture

Cheongsam or zansae, also known as the qipao and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the qizhuang, the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often seen as a longer, figure-fitting, one piece garment with a standing collar, an asymmetric, left-over-right opening and two side slits, and embellished with Chinese frog fasteners on the lapel and the collar. It was developed in the 1920s and evolved in shapes and design over years. It was popular in China from the 1920s to 1960s, overlapping with the Republican era, and was popularized by Chinese socialites and high society women in Shanghai. Although the cheongsam is sometimes seen as traditional Chinese clothing, the cheongsam continues to evolve with times as it responds to the contemporary modern life.

<i>Chinoiserie</i> European interpretation and imitation of Chinese and other East Asian artistic traditions

Chinoiserie is the European interpretation and imitation of Chinese and other East Asian artistic traditions, especially in the decorative arts, garden design, architecture, literature, theatre, and music. The aesthetic of chinoiserie has been expressed in different ways depending on the region. It is related to the broader current of Orientalism, which studied Far East cultures from a historical, philological, anthropological, philosophical, and religious point of view. First appearing in the 17th century, this trend was popularized in the 18th century due to the rise in trade with China and the rest of East Asia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Diane von Fürstenberg</span> Belgian fashion designer

Diane von Fürstenberg is a Belgian fashion designer best known for her wrap dress. She initially rose to prominence in 1969 when she married into the German princely House of Fürstenberg, as the wife of Prince Egon von Fürstenberg. Following their separation in 1972 and divorce in 1983, she has continued to use his family name.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion design</span> Art of applying design and aesthetics to clothing and accessories

Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or jewelry design, or may work in more than one of these areas."

<i>Ruqun</i> Hanfu set of attire

Ruqun is a set of attire in Hanfu which consists of a short jacket typically called ru worn under a long Chinese skirt called qun. However, when use as a general term, ruqun can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment and a wrap-around lower skirt, or yichang, in which yi means the "upper garment" and the chang means the "lower garment". In a broad sense, ruqun can include the shanqun and aoqun in its definition.

Banbi, also known as banxiu and sometimes referred as beizi or half-beizi before the term beizi eventually came to refer to a long-sleeved beizi in the Song dynasty, and referred as dahu in the Yuan dynasty, is an upper garment item in Hanfu. The banbi is in the form of a waistcoat or outerwear with short sleeves, which could either be worn over or under a long-sleeved ruqun. The style of its collar varies; it can also be secured at the front either with ties or a metal button.

<i>Shenyi</i> Chinese robes for scholars-officials evolving from an ancient robe

Shenyi, also called Deep garment in English, means "wrapping the body deep within the clothes" or "to wrap the body deep within cloth". The shenyi is an iconic form of robe in Hanfu, which was recorded in Liji and advocated in Zhu Xi's Zhuzi jiali《朱子家禮》. As cited in the Liji, the shenyi is a long robe which is created when the "upper half is connected to the bottom half to cover the body fully". The shenyi, along with its components, existed prior to the Zhou dynasty and appeared at least since the Shang dynasty. The shenyi was then developed in Zhou dynasty with a complete system of attire, being shaped by the Zhou dynasty's strict hierarchical system in terms of social levels, gender, age, and situation and was used as a basic form of clothing. The shenyi then became the mainstream clothing choice during the Qin and Han dynasties. By the Han dynasty, the shenyi had evolved into two types of robes: the qujupao and the zhijupao. The shenyi later gradually declined in popularity around the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern dynasties period. However, the shenyi's influence persisted in the following dynasties. The shenyi then became a form of formal wear for scholar-officials in the Song and Ming dynasties. Chinese scholars also recorded and defined the meaning of shenyi since the ancient times, such as Zhu Xi in the Song dynasty, Huang Zongxi in the Ming dynasty, and Jiang Yong in the Qing dynasty.

<i>Hanfu</i> Traditional dress of the Han Chinese people

Hanfu, are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of hanfu, such as the ruqun, the aoqun, the beizi and the shenyi, and the shanku.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zaju chuishao fu</span>

Zaju chuishao fu, also called Guiyi, and sometimes referred as "Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing" or "swallow tail" clothing for short in English, is a form of set of attire in hanfu which was worn by Chinese women. The zaju chuishao fu can be traced back to the pre-Han period and appears to have originated the sandi of the Zhou dynasty; it then became popular during the Han, Cao Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties. It was a common form of aristocratic costumes in the Han and Wei dynasties and was also a style of formal attire for elite women. The zaju chuishao fu can be further divided into two categories of clothing style based on its cut and construction: the guipao, and the guichang.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Qixiong ruqun</span> A type of Chinese set of attire

Qixiong ruqun, which can also be referred as Qixiong shanqun, also known as "chest-high ruqun", is a set of attire in hanfu, the traditional Chinese clothing worn by the Han Chinese. The qixiong ruqun is a unique style of ruqun, which is characterized with a high waistline qun, Chinese skirt. The qun used in the qixiong ruqun is generally tied above the bust level. It was worn by women during the Southern dynasties, Sui dynasty, Tang dynasty and Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period. The style was also revived in the early and middle Ming dynasty.

The fashion in the Yuan dynasty of Mongol (1271–1368) showed cultural diversity with the coexistence of various ethnic clothing, such as Mongol clothing, Han clothing and Korean clothing. The Mongol dress was the clothing of elite for both genders. Mongol attire worn in the 13th-14th century was different from the Han clothing from the Tang and Song dynasties. The Yuan dynasty court clothing also allowed the mixed of Mongol and Han style, and the official dress code of the Yuan dynasty also became a mixture of Han and Mongol clothing styles. After the founding of the Yuan dynasty, the Mongols strongly influenced the lifestyle and customs of the Han people.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paofu</span> Long Chinese robes

Paofu, also known as pao for short, is a form of a long, one-piece robe in Hanfu, which is characterized by the natural integration of the upper and lower part of the robe which is cut from a single fabric. The term is often used to refer to the jiaolingpao and the yuanlingpao. The jiaolingpao was worn since the Zhou dynasty and became prominent in the Han dynasty. The jiaolingpao was a unisex, one-piece robe; while it was worn mainly by men, women could also wear it. It initially looked similar to the ancient shenyi; however, these two robes are structurally different from each other. With time, the ancient shenyi disappeared while the paofu evolved gaining different features in each succeeding dynasties; the paofu continues to be worn even in present day. The term paofu refers to the "long robe" worn by ancient Chinese, and can include several form of Chinese robes of various origins and cuts, including Changshan,Qipao, Shenyi,Tieli, Zhisun, Yesa.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dahu (clothing)</span> A type of Chinese jacket with short sleeves or no sleeves

Dahu was a form of robe/jacket which originated in the Ming dynasty. In Ming dynasty, the dahu was either a new type of banbi or a sleeveless jacket, whose designs was influenced by the Mongol Yuan dynasty clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shanku</span> Chinese outfit composed of a top and trousers

Shanku is a generic term which refers to a two-piece set of attire in Hanfu, which is typically composed of a youren yi, a Chinese upper garment which typically overlaps and closes on the right side which could be called shan, ru, ao, and a pair of long trousers ku. As a form of daily attire, the shanku was mainly worn by people from lower social status in China, such as labourers, shopkeepers, or retainers from wealthy household. The shanku was originally worn by both genders. Up until the mid-20th century, it was popular in China and outside of China where it was worn by overseas Chinese in countries, such as Singapore, Malaysia, Suriname, etc. It is still worn in present-day China and can be found in rural areas.

<i>Hufu</i> Generic term for non-Han Chinese clothing

Hufu, also referred as Hu clothing, nomadic dress, 'barbarian' clothing or dress, or foreign dress, is a generic term which refers to any clothing which was worn in ancient China and its surrounding regions by non-Han Chinese people. This term is also used to refer to clothing of foreign origins in ancient China. The introduction of Hufu-style garments and attire in China occurred by the time of King Wuling of Zhao.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ru (upper garment)</span> A form of Chinese upper garment

Ru, sometimes referred to as shan, ao, and yi, is a form of traditional Chinese upper garment, or coat, or jacket, which typically has a right closure; however, they may also have a front central opening. It is traditional everyday wear for women of the Han Chinese ethnic group. It can be worn in combination with a skirt in a style called ruqun, or a pair of trousers in a style called shanku.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tanling ruqun</span> Traditional Chinese womans costume

Tanling ruqun, also known as Tan collar ruqun and U-collar ruqun, is a type of Hanfu which was developed under the influence of Hufu ; it is a form a kind of ruqun which typically consists of three parts, featuring a low-cut low-cut U-shaped collar upper inner garment with long sleeves, a U-shaped collar banbi upper outer garment with short sleeves, a long high-waisted skirt. It can also be adorned with a shawl, called pipo. It was a popular form of clothing attire in the Sui and Tang dynasty. In the 21st century, the Tanling ruqun re-appeared as a result of the Hanfu movement. The 21st century Tanling ruqun was developed by reproducing the original patterns of the historical tanling ruqun while being aligned with modern aesthetics.

Garment collars in <i>hanfu</i> Shape of collars used in hanfu

Garment collars in hanfu are diverse and come in several shapes, including jiaoling, duijin, yuanling, liling, fangling, tanling. Some forms of collars were indigenous to China while others had been adopted from the Hufu of other non-Han Chinese ethnic minorities and/or from the clothing worn by foreigners.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chinoiserie in fashion</span> Chinoiserie fashion in American and European fashion

Chinoiserie in fashion refers to the any use of chinoiserie elements in fashion, especially in American and European fashion. Since the 17th century, Chinese arts and aesthetic were sources of inspiration to European artists, creators, and fashion designers when goods from oriental countries were widely seen for the first time in Western Europe. Western chinoiserie was also often mixed with other exotic elements which were not all indigenous to China.

References

  1. "Wrap dress (noun)". Oxford Learner's Dictionaries. 2022.
  2. 1 2 Parkins, Ilya (2012). Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion. Elizabeth M. Sheehan. Hanover: University of New Hampshire Press. ISBN   978-1-61168-233-5. OCLC   823388661.
  3. Yu, Song-Ok (1980). "A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West". Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 3: 29–46. ISSN   1229-6880.
  4. Washington., Textile Museum (1996). The kimono inspiration : art and art-to-wear in America. Pomegranate Artbooks. ISBN   0-87654-598-3. OCLC   1155973292.
  5. Geczy, Adam (2013). Fashion and orientalism : dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century. London: Bloomsbury Academic. ISBN   978-1-84788-600-2. OCLC   828833691.
  6. Sun, Ming-Ju (2007). Japanese kimono paper designs : coloring book. Mineola, N.Y.: Dover. ISBN   978-0-486-46223-3. OCLC   271671537.
  7. Jirousek, Charlotte (2019). Ottoman dress & design in the West : a visual history of cultural exchange. Sara Catterall. Bloomington, Indiana. ISBN   978-0-253-04219-4. OCLC   1048050192.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  8. "Elsa Schiaparelli". Vogue. Archived from the original on 7 August 2014. Retrieved 13 January 2014.
  9. Binkley, Christina (April 27, 2012). "Two Divas (One Dead) Talk Fashion". The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 13 January 2014.
  10. 1 2 3 Vanderlinde, Pamela (2021). Patternmaking for dress design : 9 iconic styles from Empire to cheongsam. London. ISBN   978-1-350-09467-3. OCLC   1237650658.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  11. Polan, Brenda; Tredre, Roger (2009). The great fashion designers (English ed.). Oxford: Berg Publishers. p.  93. ISBN   9780857851758.
  12. Global design history. Glenn Adamson, Giorgio Riello, Sarah Teasley (1st ed.). London. 2011. ISBN   978-0-203-83197-7. OCLC   1081418859.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  13. 1 2 "Ebony". Johnson Publishing Company. Vol. 27, no. 4. 1972. ISSN   0012-9011.
  14. Grufferman, Barbara Hannah (20 February 2012). "The Wrap Star: Why Diane Von Fürstenberg Is Still On A Roll". The Huffington Post. Retrieved 13 January 2014.
  15. Martin, Richard (1998). American ingenuity : sportswear, 1930s - 1970s. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 35. ISBN   9780870998638.
  16. Miller, Amanda Christine (January 16, 2008). "Diane von Fürstenberg On Wrap Dresses And The Joys Of Aging Gracefully". Huffington Post. Retrieved 27 June 2011.
  17. 1 2 "Diane von Fürstenberg". Archived from the original on 8 August 2012. Retrieved 17 July 2012.
  18. "Diane von Fürstenberg". Fashion Model Directory. Retrieved 27 June 2011.
  19. Borresen, Kelsey (9 November 2012). "Diane von Fürstenberg Wrap Dress Inspired By Designer's Divorce". Huff Post. Retrieved 4 February 2013.
  20. Walden, Celia (6 April 2011). "Diane von Fürstenberg: interview". The Telegraph. London. Retrieved 13 January 2014.
  21. "Wrap superstar: Designer Diane von Fürstenberg tells her story" . The Independent on Sunday. London. March 27, 2008. Archived from the original on 2022-05-07. Retrieved 27 June 2011.
  22. 1 2 Leora Tanenbaum (July 14, 2015). "Because of Slut-Shaming, the Wrap Dress Still Matters". Huffington Post. Retrieved 15 July 2015.
  23. McKean, Erin (2013). The Hundred Dresses: The Most Iconic Styles of Our Time . New York: Bloomsbury. p.  201. ISBN   9781608199761 . Retrieved 6 May 2013. Revived in 1997, the dress again sold in the millions.
  24. Talley, André Leon (2004). Diane von Fürstenberg : the wrap. New York, NY: Assouline. ISBN   9782843235245.