Hair straightening

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Large rollers can be used to straighten curly hair Young Girls with Hair Curlers - San Jose de Ocoa - Dominican Republic.jpg
Large rollers can be used to straighten curly hair

Hair straightening is a hair styling technique used since the 1890s involving the flattening and straightening of hair in order to give it a smooth, streamlined, and sleek appearance. [1] It became very popular during the 1950s among black males and females of all races. It is accomplished using a hair iron or hot comb, chemical relaxers, Japanese hair straightening, [2] Brazilian hair straightening, or roller set/blowdryer styling. In addition, some shampoos, conditioners, and hair gels can help to make hair temporarily straight.

Contents

The process is often called "rebonding" in some countries from Southeast Asia (e.g. Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia and Philippines). If done often, flat irons and chemicals can be damaging to hair. [3] Excessive straightening often results in split ends. [3] However, heat protectant sprays can decrease the damage. [3]

Methods

Temporary (non-chemical)

Hair being straightened with a hair iron. Hair straighteners (3).JPG
Hair being straightened with a hair iron.

Hair irons and hot combs used appropriately temporarily modify the shape and texture of hair. The hair will tend to revert to its original form due to environmental factors, mainly contact with water from washing, rain, humidity, etc. This includes water in styling products such as gels applied after straightening, although careful use of such treatments can produce usable results.

Use of too much heat, or for too long, can cause heat damage, irreversibly altering the hair's structure. Use of protective sprays or lotions before heat styling may help to prevent heat damage. While the damage cannot be reversed, it can be disguised using various styling techniques. Only cutting off and regrowing damaged hair removes the damage. [4] [5] [6]

There are five principal tools used for hair straightening without chemical treatment:

A popular temporary straightening method is the Dominican blowout which originated in the Dominican Republic. The technique spread to the United States where it was popularized by Dominican stylists. The Dominican blowout allows highly-textured and tightly-curled hair types to be straightened without the use of chemicals. It has become popular, particularly among African Americans, as an alternative to permanent hair straightening or as a method of straightening the hair between relaxers. [8]

Permanent (chemical)

Relaxers and the other methods permanently alter the structure of the hair, although new hair growth is not affected. The drug interferon alpha has been reported as being shown to modify hair follicles causing permanent change in a person's hair texture. [9] Chemical hair straightening uses chemical substances to break disulfide bonds, also called an S-S bond or disulfide bridge, in the hair shaft. [10] [11]

There are several ways of permanently straightening hair. The main methods used today are:

Comparison of the permanent hair straightening treatments:
Keratin/Brazilian treatmentJapanese/Thermal treatmentChemical straightening/ hair relaxing treatment
methodkeratin layer + flat ironingbond breaking chemical + heat + neutralising chemicalhydroxide substance to break the disulfide bonds
texture & appearancesoft, silky, shiny, easy to manage. Lasts 2-6 months.silky straight hair. Permanent.soft, straight, easy to manage. Permanent.
suitable forall hair types, damaged and previously treatedhair that has not been treated with chemicals before; loose to medium curlscoarse, tight curls
safety concerns
  • emits gases, not recommended while pregnant
  • protection for skin and eyes is required
  • damage from long exposure to heat
  • might cause scalp irritation and hair loss
  • chemical burns
  • hair breakage
duration of treatment2-4 hours4-8 hoursvaries
recommended hair care
  • no washing, ponytails, or clips for 3 days
  • using Sodium chloride free shampoo and conditioner
  • Keratin shampoo
  • no washing for 3 days
  • use moisturizer and sun protection
  • wait 1-2 months until dying the hair
deep conditioning

Cancer risk

Relaxers can contain carcinogens such as formaldehyde-releasing agents, phthalates, and other endocrine-disrupting compounds, [12] according to National Institutes of Health studies. The compounds can mimic the body's hormones, and studies have found them to be linked to breast, uterine, and ovarian cancers. For example, a 2017 study found that women who used chemical relaxers were nearly twice as likely to develop breast cancer as those who did not. [13] [14] [15]

Afro-textured hair

Madam C. J. Walker (1867-1919), popularizer of the straightening comb Madame CJ Walker.gif
Madam C. J. Walker (1867–1919), popularizer of the straightening comb

Hair straightening using a hot comb or relaxer has a long history among women and men of African American descent, reflected in the huge commercial success of the straightening comb popularized by Madam C. J. Walker and other hairdressers in the early 1900s. [16] The Madam Walker System of Beauty Culture focused more on hygiene and healthy scalps and hair than hair straightening. Her vegetable shampoo and Madam Walker's Wonderful Hair Grower (an ointment that contained sulfur) were designed to heal dandruff and severe scalp infections that were very common during a time when most Americans lacked indoor plumbing, electricity and central heating. Walker did not invent the hot comb, which was commercially available in Europe and America as early as the 1870s. While the practice has at times been a controversial issue in discussions of racial identity, visits to the hair salon have become embedded in black culture, fulfilling an important social role especially for women. [17] [18]

See also

Related Research Articles

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A hairstyle, hairdo, haircut or coiffure refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human head but sometimes on the face or body. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical, cultural, and popular considerations also influence some hairstyles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hairbrush</span> Brush for hair care

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair conditioner</span> Hair care product

Hair conditioner is a hair care cosmetic product used to improve the feel, texture, appearance and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce friction between strands of hair to allow smoother brushing or combing, which might otherwise cause damage to the scalp. Various other benefits are often advertised, such as hair repair, strengthening, or a reduction in split ends.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair iron</span> Hair styling tool with heating element

A hair iron or hair tong is a tool used to change the arrangement of the hair using heat. There are three general kinds: curling irons, used to make the hair curly, straightening irons, commonly called straighteners or flat irons, used to straighten the hair, and crimping irons, used to create crimps of the desired size in the hair.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Perm (hairstyle)</span> Hairstyle

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Trichorrhexis nodosa</span> Medical condition

Trichorrhexis nodosa is a defect in the hair shaft characterized by thickening or weak points (nodes) that cause the hair to break off easily. This group of conditions contributes to the appearance of hair loss, lack of growth, and damaged-looking hair.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hot comb</span> Hair straightening tool

A hot comb is a metal comb that is used to straighten moderate or coarse hair and create a smoother hair texture. A hot comb is heated and used to straighten the hair from the roots. It can be placed directly on the source of heat or it may be electrically heated.

A relaxer is a type of lotion or cream generally used by people with tight curls or very curly hair which makes hair easier to straighten by chemically "relaxing" the natural curls. The active agent is usually a strong alkali, although some formulations are based on ammonium thioglycolate or formaldehyde.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair care</span> Hygiene and cosmetology involving human hair

Hair care or haircare is an overall term for hygiene and cosmetology involving the hair which grows from the human scalp, and to a lesser extent facial, pubic and other body hair. Hair care routines differ according to an individual's culture and the physical characteristics of one's hair. Hair may be colored, trimmed, shaved, plucked or otherwise removed with treatments such as waxing, sugaring and threading. Hair care services are offered in salons, barbershops and day spas, and products are available commercially for home use. Laser hair removal and electrolysis are also available, though these are provided by licensed professionals in medical offices or speciality spas.

Trichoptilosis, schizotrichia, and informally split ends, is the splitting or fraying of the hair-shaft due to excessive heat and mechanical stress.

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Uncombable hair syndrome (UHS) is a rare structural anomaly of the hair with a variable degree of effect. It is characterized by hair that is silvery, dry, frizzy, wiry, and impossible to comb. It was first reported in the early 20th century. It typically becomes apparent between the ages of 3 months and 12 years. UHS has several names, including pili trianguli et canaliculi (Latin), cheveux incoiffables (French), and "spun-glass hair". This disorder is believed to be autosomal recessive in most instances, but there are a few documented cases where multiple family members display the trait in an autosomal dominant fashion. Based on the current scientific studies related to the disorder, the three genes that have been causally linked to UHS are PADI3, TGM3, and TCHH. These genes encode proteins important for hair shaft formation. Clinical symptoms of the disorder arise between 3 months and 12 years of age. The quantity of hair on the head does not change, but hair starts to grow more slowly and becomes increasingly "uncombable". To be clinically apparent, 50% of all scalp hair shafts must be affected by UHS. This syndrome only affects the hair shaft of the scalp and does not influence hair growth in terms of quantity, textural feel, or appearance on the rest of the body.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">African-American hair</span> Afro-textured hair types

African-American hair or Black hair refers to hair types, textures, and styles that are linked to African-American culture, often drawing inspiration from African hair culture. It plays a major role in the identity and politics of Black culture in the United States and across the diaspora. African-American hair often has a kinky hairy texture, appearing tightly coiled and packed. Black hair has a complex history, culture, and cultural impact, including its relationship with racism.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Curly Girl Method</span> Curly hair maintenance method

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Frizz is hair that does not align with the surrounding hair, but stands up or curls independently, creating a fuzzy or irregular texture. The three main causes of frizz are genetics, hair damage, and humidity. Frizzy hair can be seen as a positive or a negative trait depending on the current fashion and one's personal preference. Many hair products, such as gels, pomades, and hair waxes, are designed to reduce frizz.

References

  1. Draelos, Zoe Diana (2011-08-31). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. John Wiley & Sons. ISBN   9781444359510.
  2. "Japanese Hair Straightening: Should You Try It?". About.com Style. Retrieved 2017-02-23.
  3. 1 2 3 "This Is What Your Flat Iron Is Actually Doing To Your Hair". HuffPost. 2014-03-25. Retrieved 2019-11-26.
  4. Edwards, Chime (October 27, 2020). "Real Talk About Heat Damage". Essence.
  5. "3 Reasons Heat Damage to Natural Hair CANNOT Be Reversed". Black Girl Long Hair. January 23, 2015.
  6. "4 Signs You're in Heat Damage Denial". Naturally Curly. February 12, 2015.
  7. Willett, Julie A. (2010). The American Beauty Industry Encyclopedia. ABC-CLIO. p. 145. ISBN   978-0313359491.
  8. Dade, Corey (2010-05-12). "Much Ado About Straightening: Old Black Salons Face New Rivals". Wall Street Journal. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 2017-08-02.
  9. Roger Highfield (2005-11-17). "Scientists hold out prospect of a pill to make your hair curl". www.telegraph.co.uk The Daily Telegraph . Retrieved 2009-01-08.
  10. Cosmetics in Dermatology by Zoe Kececioglu Draelos
  11. Draelos, Zoe Kececioglu. (1990). Cosmetics in dermatology. New York: Churchill Livingstone. ISBN   0443086443. OCLC   20318781.
  12. Lombardi, Kevin (12 July 2023). "Chemical Hair Straightener & Cancer Risk: The Link Explained". drugwatch.
  13. Cohen, Ronnie (1 August 2023). "Black Women Weigh Risks of 'Creamy Crack' Hair Straighteners". Medscape.
  14. "Hair straightening chemicals associated with higher uterine cancer risk" (Press release). National Institutes of Health (NIH). 17 October 2022.
  15. "Study Finds Possible Link Between Hair Straightening Chemicals and Uterine Cancer". American Cancer Society. 26 October 2022.
  16. Noliwe M. Rooks (July 1996). Hair raising: beauty, culture, and African American women. Rutgers University Press. pp. 51ff. ISBN   978-0-8135-2312-5 . Retrieved 8 November 2011.
  17. bell hooks, "Straightening Our Hair", Z Magazine, September 1988
  18. Noliwe M. Rooks (July 1996). Hair raising: beauty, culture, and African American women. Rutgers University Press. pp. 8–10. ISBN   978-0-8135-2312-5 . Retrieved 8 November 2011.