Author | |
---|---|
Language | English, French |
Genre | Art history |
Publisher | Harry N Abrams, Groupe Flammarion |
Publication date | 1963–66, 1987 |
Publication place | United Kingdom, France, United States |
Pages | 441 |
OCLC | 176250 |
20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment is a dictionary of western fashion from ancient times up to the 1960s, edited by Francois Boucher and his longtime assistant Yvonne Deslandres.
The book is widely cited as a reference for fashion trends in paintings and has 1150 illustrations which are mostly paintings, etchings and engravings from Western museums and collections. The book includes a glossary of terms and a bibliography of sources. It was originally published in French in 1965 as Histoire du Costume en Occident de l’antiquité à nos jours and was translated into English the next year, but was published after Boucher's death. In 1987 Deslandres updated a new edition with a section on modern fashion.
Rococo, less commonly Roccoco, also known as Late Baroque, is an exceptionally ornamental and dramatic style of architecture, art and decoration which combines asymmetry, scrolling curves, gilding, white and pastel colours, sculpted moulding, and trompe-l'œil frescoes to create surprise and the illusion of motion and drama. It is often described as the final expression of the Baroque movement.
A nightgown, nightie or nightdress is a loosely hanging item of nightwear, and is commonly worn by women and girls. A nightgown is made from cotton, silk, satin, or nylon and may be decorated with lace appliqués or embroidery at the bust and hem.
Natalia Sergeevna Goncharova was a Russian avant-garde artist, painter, costume designer, writer, illustrator, and set designer. Goncharova's lifelong partner was fellow Russian avant-garde artist Mikhail Larionov. She was a founding member of both the Jack of Diamonds (1909–1911), Moscow's first radical independent exhibiting group, the more radical Donkey's Tail (1912–1913), and with Larionov invented Rayonism (1912–1914). She was also a member of the German-based art movement Der Blaue Reiter. Born in Russia, she moved to Paris in 1921 and lived there until her death.
A justacorps or justaucorps is a knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century and throughout the 18th century. It is of French origin, where it had developed from a cape-like garment called a casaque. It was introduced into England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, which also included breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype for the modern-day three-piece suit. The justacorps itself evolved into the frock coat.
Fashion in 15th-century Europe was characterized by a surge of experimentation and regional variety, from the voluminous robes called houppelandes with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing giornea of Renaissance Italy. Hats, hoods, and other headdresses assumed increasing importance, and were draped, jeweled, and feathered.
The 1910s in Western fashion encompasses styles from 1910 to 1919. Western fashion in this period carries influences from oriental and neoclassical inspirations as well as the subsequent effects of World War I. Over the decade, Women's fashion experienced a shift towards shorter hemlines and dropped waistlines in addition to the more practical garments necessitated by the war. In men's fashion, evening wear largely continued to adhere to previous conventions while trends in informal outerwear continued to evolve. During the period, shifts in fashion made way for styles associated with the Jazz Age of the 1920s.
Costume during the thirteenth century in Europe was relatively simple in its shapes, rich in colour for both men and women, and quite uniform across the Roman Catholic world as the Gothic style started its spread all over Europe in dress, architecture, and other arts.
Twelfth century European fashion was simple in cut and differed only in details from the clothing of the preceding centuries, starting to become tighter and more similar for men and women as the century went on, which would continue in the 13th century. Men wore knee-length tunics for most activities, and men of the upper classes wore long tunics, with hose and mantle or cloaks. Women wore long tunics or gowns. A close fit to the body, full skirts, and long flaring sleeves were characteristic of upper-class fashion for both men and women.
A peascod belly is a type of exaggeratedly padded stomach that was very popular in men's dress in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. The term is thought to have come from "peacock," or from the form of contemporary plate armour. Sometimes it was called a 'goose belly.'
A bergère hat is a flat-brimmed straw hat with a shallow crown, usually trimmed with ribbon and flowers. It could be worn in various ways with the brim folded back or turned up or down at whim. It is also sometimes called a milkmaid hat. It was widely worn in the mid-18th century, and versions may be seen in many British and French paintings of the period, such as The Swing by Fragonard, and in portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and Johann Zoffany, amongst others. It has been suggested that the hat was named after Madame Bergeret, who is holding a shepherdess-style hat in a Boucher portrait painted c.1766.
James Laver, CBE, FRSA was an English author, critic, art historian, and museum curator who acted as Keeper of Prints, Drawings and Paintings for the Victoria and Albert Museum between 1938 and 1959. He was also an important and pioneering fashion historian described as "the man in England who made the study of costume respectable".
Lola Prusac was a Polish-born French fashion designer noted for her inventive and original way of dressing, who worked for Hermès in Paris between 1925 and 1935. She was first "with the unusual position of counselor for colors", then as a modéliste (designer). At Hermès she designed in 1929 their first women collection, silk squares,. and in the early 1930s bags with geometric inlays inspired by the Dutch painter Mondrian. In 1936, she founded her own fashion house, specialising in "sport-tricot" clothes. For this reason, though she had been a member since 1942, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture denied her in 1952 the "Couture-Création" status.
A ferreruolo is a short cape of military origin, which was popular among Spanish men during the 16th century. It is also called ferreruelo, herreruelo, boemio, balandran, fieltro, and capa.
Ila Mae McAfee, also known as Ila McAfee Turner, was an American painter, muralist, illustrator and author. She was born in or near Gunnison, Colorado and known for her miniatures and as an animalier and muralist. She is best remembered for her paintings of horses, Western themes, landscapes, and portraits of Pueblos.
Yvonne Deslandres (1923–1986) was a French writer, curator, archivist, and art historian. She specialized in costume and adornment.
François Leon Louis Boucher was a French museum curator and writer.
Portrait of Margarete Brömsen is a painting by the German Baroque painter Michael Conrad Hirt, painted in 1642 and now in St. Anne's Museum. It is considered a wedding portrait, but a pendant of her husband, Diedrich von Brömsen, is unknown.
A vlieger is a type of sleeveless over-gown or cape worn by women in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Variations with short sleeves or high shoulder rolls are known. Sometimes sleeves were attached with aiglets, and often slits were made to allow belts or the hands to pass through.
Mademoiselle V. in the Costume of an Espada is an 1862 oil-on-canvas painting by French artist Édouard Manet. The painting is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, having been acquired in 1929. Manet exhibited the painting at the 1863 Salon des Refusés alongside Jeune Homme en costume de majo and Le Déjeuner sur l'herbe. It is often cited as an example of Manet's work being influenced by Spanish art.
Portrait of a Noble Young Lady is considered by many art historians, such as Paul Huvenne, former Director of the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp, to be one of the best examples of Pieter Pourbus' portraiture.