Abby Franquemont

Last updated
Abby Franquemont
Abby Franquemont Machu Picchu (2).jpg
Abby Franquemont, 2019
Born
Abigail M. Franquemont

1972 (age 5152)
Massachusetts, United States
Occupation(s)Spinner, weaver, writer, fiber crafts educator
Known forReviving the ancient art of hand spinning with a spindle
Notable workRespect the Spindle (2009)

Abigail M. Franquemont (born 1972) is an American textile crafts writer, lecturer and educator, based in Cusco, Peru. She spent her early childhood among the Quechua people of Chinchero, Peru, where "women spun to eat and pay for the home they lived in." [1] As a revivalist of the ancient art of hand spinning with the spindle, [2] she published her book, Respect the Spindle, in 2009.

Contents

Early life and family

Chinchero weaver 2015 Smithsonian folklife festival DC - Cusco Weavers - 01.jpg
Chinchero weaver

Abigail M. Franquemont was born in Massachusetts. Her parents were anthropologists Ed Franquemont (1945–2003) and Christine Robinson Franquemont (1948–2013). According to Ann Peters in Andean Past, Ed and Chris met at Harvard, traveled as hippies with their children to Chinchero, Peru, and settled there to join the community and study traditional knowledge of weaving, construction and agriculture in 1976 "in the context of social change". They returned to the U.S. around 1982, and by 1985 the family had moved to Ithaca, New York, where the couple continued to research, and to contribute to the community there. [3]

Franquemont's younger sister, Molly Anne Franquemont (b. 1975), was reported missing in May 2013. Glen Griggs of Sunnyvale, California was suspected of her murder, but was shot and killed by police in 2014. [4] [5]

Textile arts background

Chinchero spinner Chinchero.- Drop spinning by woman.jpg
Chinchero spinner

Franquemont was born into a textile environment. [3] [6] She remembers "falling asleep under her father's loom." [6] Among friends in Chinchero, Franquemont and her sister spent their early childhoods within the hand spinning and hand weaving culture of the local Quechua people, before those ancient skills began to be lost to the influence of Western society, as described in Respect the Spindle (2009). [7] In a world where "women...spun to eat and pay for the home they lived in," [1] the Franquemont girls learned to spin alpaca fiber at or before the age of five years, [8] hoping to reach a professional standard before adulthood. Spinning was part of their play. [3] [7] After the family's return to America, Franquemont attended Lehman Alternative Community School, Ithaca, then read liberal arts at Bard College at Simon's Rock. [9] [10]

Career

Franquemont Fibers

Franquemont worked in the textile business and system software until 2006, when she founded Franquemont Fibers LLC. [11] The company supplies products for the spinning and fiber arts. It also allows her to pursue her vocation as a fiber arts educator and consultant. She has been described by Interweave as "a fiber artist, teacher, technical editor, and writer whose work has appeared in Spin-Off, Spindicity, and Twist Collective". [7]

Writing

Peruvian spindle with alpaca fiber Drop spindle with wool of alpaca Peru.jpg
Peruvian spindle with alpaca fiber

In 2009 she published the hand spinning instruction book, Respect the Spindle. The book outlines her personal experience of the place of hand spinning within the indigenous community of Chinchero in the 1970s, discusses the physics of hand spinning with spindles, and describes the techniques required for this. [7] One of the reasons why she has supported the revival of the use of hand spindles is that, as her father said, in comparison with the spinning wheel "spindles (are) slower by the hour, but faster by the week." According to Franquemont, he meant that one can use a spindle while travelling or walking around, thus increasing potential spinning time. [1] [7]

In the spring 2010 issue of Spin-Off magazine she clarifies the difference between bobbin-driven and flyer-driven spinning wheels. [12] In the summer 2015 edition she discusses the origins of Andean plying. [13]

Videos, teaching and lecturing

She took part in Knitting Daily TV, Series 300 in 2009. She published or took part in various video downloads, including: Drafting: The Long and Short of It (Interweave 2010), Handspinning Prep Matters: Making Sense of Batts, Roving, Rolags, and More (Interweave 2015), New Spinner's Guide to Troubleshooting (Interweave 2015) and Get More Spun: Spinning to Knit Large Projects (Interweave, 2015), and she has lectured at "The National Needlearts Association (TNNA), Golden Gate Fiber Institute, the Spin-Off Autumn Retreat (SOAR), Sock Summit, the Taos Wool Festival, New York State Sheep & Wool (Rhinebeck), Southeastern Animal Fiber Fair (SAFF), and Fibre East in Bedfordshire, UK." [14]

Related Research Articles

Spinning is a twisting technique to form yarn from fibers. The fiber intended is drawn out, twisted, and wound onto a bobbin. A few popular fibers that are spun into yarn other than cotton, which is the most popular, are viscose, animal fibers such as wool, and synthetic polyester. Originally done by hand using a spindle whorl, starting in the 500s AD the spinning wheel became the predominant spinning tool across Asia and Europe. The spinning jenny and spinning mule, invented in the late 1700s, made mechanical spinning far more efficient than spinning by hand, and especially made cotton manufacturing one of the most important industries of the Industrial Revolution.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yarn</span> Long continuous length of interlocked fibres

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for needlework. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses. Although yarn may be dyed different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform hue.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Spinning wheel</span> Device for spinning thread, yarn, or silk from natural or synthetic fibers

A spinning wheel is a device for spinning thread or yarn from fibres. It was fundamental to the cotton textile industry prior to the Industrial Revolution. It laid the foundations for later machinery such as the spinning jenny and spinning frame, which displaced the spinning wheel during the Industrial Revolution.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Worsted</span> Fabrics manufactured from worsted yarns

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk. That village, together with North Walsham and Aylsham, formed a manufacturing centre for yarn and cloth in the 12th century, when pasture enclosure and liming rendered the East Anglian soil too rich for the older agrarian sheep breeds. In the same period, many weavers from the County of Flanders moved to Norfolk. "Worsted" yarns/fabrics are distinct from woollens : the former is considered stronger, finer, smoother, and harder than the latter.

In the textile arts, plying is a process of twisting one or more strings of yarn together to create a stronger yarn. Strands are twisted together in the direction opposite that in which they were spun. Plied yarns will not unravel, break, or degrade as easily as unplied yarns. When enough twist is added to the plies to counter the initial twist of each strand, the resulting yarn is "balanced", having no tendency to twist upon itself.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Spindle (textiles)</span> Spike used for spinning fibers into yarn

A spindle is a straight spike, usually made from wood, used for spinning, twisting fibers such as wool, flax, hemp, cotton into yarn. It is often weighted at either the bottom, middle, or top, commonly by a disc or spherical object called a whorl; many spindles, however, are weighted simply by thickening their shape towards the bottom, e.g. Orenburg and French spindles. The spindle may also have a hook, groove, or notch at the top to guide the yarn. Spindles come in many different sizes and weights depending on the thickness of the yarn one desires to spin.

TPI is a term used in the textile industry. It measures how much twist a yarn has, and can be calculated by counting the number of twists in an inch of yarn.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Spinning mule</span> Machine used to spin cotton and other fibres

The spinning mule is a machine used to spin cotton and other fibres. They were used extensively from the late 18th to the early 20th century in the mills of Lancashire and elsewhere. Mules were worked in pairs by a minder, with the help of two boys: the little piecer and the big or side piecer. The carriage carried up to 1,320 spindles and could be 150 feet (46 m) long, and would move forward and back a distance of 5 feet (1.5 m) four times a minute.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hand spinning</span> Method of turning fiber into thread

Spinning is an ancient textile art in which plant, animal or synthetic fibres are drawn out and twisted together to form yarn. For thousands of years, fibre was spun by hand using simple tools, the spindle and distaff. After the introduction of the spinning wheel in the 13th century, the output of individual spinners increased dramatically. Mass production later arose in the 18th century with the beginnings of the Industrial Revolution. Hand-spinning remains a popular handicraft.

Chiengora, also called "dog wool," is yarn or wool spun from dog hair. The word is a portmanteau of chien and angora and was coined by an American spinner, Annette Klick. Dog hair is up to 80% warmer than wool and is not elastic.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Niddy-noddy</span> Hand reel used to skein and measure yarn

A niddy-noddy is a tool used to make skeins from yarn. It consists of a central bar, with crossbars at each end, offset from each other by 90°. The central bar is generally carved to make it easier to hold. Either one of the crossbars will have a flat edge to allow the skein to slide off, or will be completely removable. Niddy-noddies can be constructed of many different materials including wood, metal, and plastic. Wood is traditional, and most quality niddy-noddies are still made of wood. Budget spinners occasionally use niddy-noddies made from PVC pipes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Andean textiles</span> Textile tradition indigenous to South America

The Andean textile tradition once spanned from the Pre-Columbian to the Colonial era throughout the western coast of South America, but was mainly concentrated in what is now Peru. The arid desert conditions along the coast of Peru have allowed for the preservation of these dyed textiles, which can date to 6000 years old. Many of the surviving textile samples were from funerary bundles, however, these textiles also encompassed a variety of functions. These functions included the use of woven textiles for ceremonial clothing or cloth armor as well as knotted fibers for record-keeping. The textile arts were instrumental in political negotiations, and were used as diplomatic tools that were exchanged between groups. Textiles were also used to communicate wealth, social status, and regional affiliation with others. The cultural emphasis on the textile arts was often based on the believed spiritual and metaphysical qualities of the origins of materials used, as well as cosmological and symbolic messages within the visual appearance of the textiles. Traditionally, the thread used for textiles was spun from indigenous cotton plants, as well as alpaca and llama wool.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Short draw</span> Drafting technique used with long-staple fibers in hand spinning

Short draw is the spinning technique used to create worsted yarns. It is spun from combed roving, sliver or wool top – anything with the fibers all lined up parallel to the yarn. It is generally spun from long stapled fibers. Short draw spun yarns are smooth, strong, sturdy yarns, and dense. Short draw spun yarns also tend to not be very elastic. These characteristics make them good for use in weaving.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Long draw</span> Drafting technique used with short-staple yarns in hand spinning

Long draw is the spinning technique used to create woolen yarns. It is spun from carded rolags. It is generally spun from shorter stapled fibers. Long draw spun yarns are light, lofty, stretchy, soft, and full of air, thus they are good insulators, and make good knitting yarns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chinchero District</span> District in Cusco, Peru

Chinchero District is one of seven districts of the Urubamba Province in Peru. The town of Chinchero is the capital of the district. It is the location for the proposed Chinchero International Airport, which would serve travelers to the Cusco Region.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Distaff</span> Stick or staff for holding fibre to be spun

A distaff is a tool used in spinning. It is designed to hold the unspun fibers, keeping them untangled and thus easing the spinning process. It is most commonly used to hold flax and sometimes wool, but can be used for any type of fibre. Fiber is wrapped around the distaff and tied in place with a piece of ribbon or string. The word comes from Low German dis, meaning a bunch of flax, connected with staff.

Textile manufacturing is one of the oldest human activities. The oldest known textiles date back to about 5000 B.C. In order to make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving to create cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. Cloth is finished by what are described as wet process to become fabric. The fabric may be dyed, printed or decorated by embroidering with coloured yarns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chuspas</span> Pouch for coca leaves

A chuspas is a pouch that is used to carry coca leaves, used primarily in the Andean region of South America. Both textiles and coca are very important to the people in Andean South America. These chuspas are a vital piece of culture and are especially important to combat the bitter cold in the mountainous zones of the Andes. These bags are also a way to showcase the cloth which in itself is a primary artistic medium. Highland textiles are traditionally woven from the hair of native camelids, usually the domesticated alpacas and llamas, and more rarely, wild vicuña and guanaco. These pouches are important symbols of social identity. As part of this tradition, chuspas show to the rest of their people how skilled they are in weaving. They can express their artistic skills and display their cultural affiliation by creating these chuspas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez</span> Indigenous Quechuau weaver

Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez is an indigenous Quechua weaver from Chinchero in the Cusco region of Peru. Along with other Quechua weavers from Chinchero as well as international supporters, she helped to establish the Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco (CTTC) in 1996 as a non-profit organization. Since 1996, Callañaupa has served as director of the CTTC. She has written two books on Peruvian weaving, and has co-authored a third on weaving elders of the Peruvian Andes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco</span> Nonprofit organisation

Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cuzco was founded by indigenous weavers from the community of Chinchero as well as international supporters in 1996 as a non-profit organization. It is based out of the city of Cusco, Peru where its main offices, museum and shop are located. The CTTC works in support of indigenous weavers from the Cusco region to recover traditional Cusqueñan textiles. The organization currently partners with ten communities from the Cusco region: Accha Alta, Acopia, Chahuaytire, Chinchero, Huacatinco, Mahuaypampa, Patabamba, Pitumarca, Santa Cruz de Sallac, and Santo Tomas (Chumbivilcas).

References

  1. 1 2 3 "Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers issue 257, spring 2016, pp.17–19: In praise of the humble spindle, by Sally Hands" (PDF).
  2. "Revivalist, noun: definition of revivalist (2)". merriam-webster.com. Merriam-Webster Incorporated. 22 February 2020. Retrieved 23 March 2020.
  3. 1 2 3 "Digital Commons Library, University of Maine: Andean Past vol8, article 10, 2007. Ed Franquemont (February 17, 1945 - March 11, 2003) by Ann Peters".
  4. "Molly Anne Franquemont". State of California - Department of Justice - Office of the Attorney General. May 10, 2013.
  5. "Sunnyvale: Prosecutors clear officers in 2014 shooting of man suspected in girlfriends' mysterious deaths". March 8, 2016.
  6. 1 2 "Abby Franquemont of Abby's Yarns". Marly Bird. May 21, 2015.
  7. 1 2 3 4 5 Abby Franquemont, Respect the Spindle, spin infinite yarns with one amazing tool, Interweave (2009) ISBN   9781596681552
  8. The book, Respect the Spindle, p.65, specifies camelid and sheep fibers
  9. "Simon's Rock Magazine". Issuu. 23 April 2013.
  10. "Alumni US | Bard College at Simon's Rock, Pittsfield, Massachusetts Area". alumnius.net.
  11. "Shop | Abby's Yarns".
  12. "Spin-Off, Spring 2010 Digital Edition". Interweave.
  13. "Spin-Off, Summer 2015 Digital Edition". Interweave.
  14. "Lambtown Festival". lambtown.org. Lambtown Festival. October 2020. Retrieved 23 March 2020.