Cape dress

Last updated
Anabaptist women wearing cape dresses and headcoverings Mennonite choir in Dupont Circle -04- (50565772303).png
Anabaptist women wearing cape dresses and headcoverings

A cape dress describes a woman's dress that combines features of the cape and the dress. Either a cape-like garment is attached to the dress, pinned or sewn on, [1] and integrated into its construction, or the dress and cape are made to coordinate in fabric and/or color. [2]

Contents

Cape dresses provide a modest double layer in the bodice area. They also provide a long, full, skirt that conceals the form and falls at least below the knee and sometimes down to the ankle, depending upon the Christian denomination. Cape dresses are traditionally worn by female Anabaptist Christian church members, such as Mennonite, Brethren, Amish and Charity women. [3] [4] Along with the adjective kosmios (κόσμιος) meaning "modest", 1 Timothy 2:9–10 uses the Greek word catastola katastolé (καταστολῇ) for the apparel suitable for Christian females, and for this reason, women belonging to traditional Anabaptist denominations often wear a cape dress; for example, members of the Charity Christian Fellowship (an Anabaptist denomination) wear the cape dress as the denomination teaches that "the sisters are to wear a double layered garment as the Greek word 'catastola' describes." [4] Cape dresses have additionally been worn by traditional Christians of the Quaker and Shaker denominations, among others. [5]

Each local church group has its own regulations and basic pattern, so that when meeting each other, members of plain churches can generally recognize each other's specific congregations. Many churches have a dress pattern where the cape is attached at the waist. Others, especially among the Brethren churches, have maintained a dress pattern where the cape is loose at the bottom edge. Additionally the cape dress, in extreme forms, has become a part of fashion vocabulary.

The cape dress is worn with a headcovering, often in the form of a kapp or an opaque hanging veil. [3]

The cape dress and Mennonite women

A clothing exhibit at the Mennonite Heritage Village museum showing apparel worn by Mennonite men and women. Mennonite Heritage Village Steinbach Manitoba Canada 1 (8).JPG
A clothing exhibit at the Mennonite Heritage Village museum showing apparel worn by Mennonite men and women.

In the 19th and 20th century popular female fashion changed radically to be more form-fitting and revealing. At the same time, the cape dress continued to be worn by women who were members of conservative, traditional Mennonite and other Anabaptist communities. [6]

The cape dress has a plain style and a double layer of fabric covers the bodice. This piece of fabric has a square or V-shape form and cloaks, or de-emphasizes the female form. [1]

The women of the Holdeman Mennonite community in California wear a cape-dress that has a high neckline, loose bodice and fitted waist. The cape of the dress covers the shoulders and bust. [7] Because of religious reasons, no (or only minor) adornment of the dress is allowed. [7] The plainer the dress, the higher it is valued by some churches. For the Plain Christian community, women's clothing symbolizes her embrace of Biblical and traditional gender roles. [1]

According to men, the cape dress signifies a woman’s submission to God, her desire to be modest and not serve as a temptation or snare to men, her glad embrace of her place in the order of creation, as well as identification with the other members of her church. [7] Besides that it continues to be a statement of nonconformity to the world, especially against rapid and dramatically changing, body revealing fashions from the end of the 19th century onwards. [1]

In fashion

A pink coloured cape dress Niagara Falls - panoramio (69).jpg
A pink coloured cape dress

The cape dress has occurred in different variations in fashion and film. Greta Garbo wore an Art Deco inspired cape dress in the film The Torrent (1926). The dress has a geometrical black-and-white pattern and a stiff round ruff. [8] The cape dress was also popular in the 1950s. Two types were prominent at the time: a full-skirted, sleeveless dress with a matching, elbow-length cape or a beltless, sheath dress with matching cape. [9]

In the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum various cape dresses can be found. In 1933 Madeleine Vionnet created a woollen jersey dress and matching cape. [10] Coco Chanel designed a dress with matching cape in 1937–38. The dress consisted of silk and net covered with black sequins. It was lined with satin. [11] In 1967 Cristóbal Balenciaga created an evening ensemble consisting of a matching cape and sleeveless dress out of black gazar silk. [12] Philippe Venet created a black-and-white dress with a cape-like collar in 1989. [13]

In the 2010s, multiple fashion designers featured the cape dress in their collections:

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hubert de Givenchy</span> French fashion designer (1927–2018)

Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy was a French aristocrat and fashion designer who founded the luxury fashion and perfume house of Givenchy in 1952. He is famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn and clothing for Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy. He was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1970.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">André Courrèges</span> French fashion designer (1923–2016)

André Courrèges was a French fashion designer. He was particularly known for his streamlined 1960s designs influenced by modernism and futurism, exploiting modern technology and new fabrics. Courrèges defined the go-go boot and along with Mary Quant, is one of the designers credited with inventing the miniskirt.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Madeleine Vionnet</span> French fashion designer (1876–1975)

Madeleine Vionnet was a French fashion designer best known for being the “pioneer of the bias cut dress”, Vionnet trained in London before returning to France to establish her first fashion house in Paris in 1912. Although it was forced to close in 1914 at the outbreak of the First World War, it re-opened after the war and Vionnet became one of the leading designers of 1920s-30s Paris. Vionnet was forced to close her house again in 1939 at the start of the Second World War and she retired in 1940.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cristóbal Balenciaga</span> Spanish fashion designer (1895–1972)

Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre was a Spanish fashion designer, and the founder of the Balenciaga clothing brand. He had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was referred to as "the master of us all" by Christian Dior and as "the only couturier in the truest sense of the word" by Coco Chanel, who continued, "The others are simply fashion designers". On the day of his death, in 1972, Women's Wear Daily ran the headline "The King is Dead".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Balenciaga</span> French-based Spanish luxury fashion line

Balenciaga is a Spanish luxury fashion house headquartered in Paris. It designs, manufactures and markets ready-to-wear footwear, handbags, and accessories, and licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrances. Balenciaga is one of the luxury brands owned by Kering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dressmaker</span> Person who makes custom clothing for women

A dressmaker, also known as a seamstress, is a person who makes clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Dressmakers were historically known as mantua-makers, and are also known as a modiste or fabrician.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Julien Fournié</span> French fashion designer

Julien Fournié is a French fashion designer and CEO of his own eponymous haute couture company founded in the summer of 2009. Previously, he was the last creative director of the Paris-based haute couture fashion house Torrente. In 2008, he was named creative director for womenswear, menswear and accessories at Ramosport.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion show</span> Event of displaying latest clothing and apparel collection

A fashion show is an event put on by a fashion designer to showcase their upcoming line of clothing and/or accessories during a fashion week. Fashion shows debut every season, particularly the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons. This is where designers seek to promote their new fashions. The four major fashion weeks in the world, collectively known as the "Big 4", in chronological order of their eponymous fashion weeks, are those held in New York City, London, Milan, and Paris. Berlin fashion week is also of global importance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Giambattista Valli</span> Italian fashion designer (born 1966)

Giambattista Valli is an Italian fashion designer. He is from Rome, Italy. His collections, both ready to wear and Haute couture, are presented semi-annually during Paris Fashion Week.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Austin Scarlett</span> American fashion designer and artist (born 1983)

Austin Scarlett is an American fashion designer and artist known for his appearances on the first season of Project Runway, 2012's Project Runway: All Stars, and his own series, On the Road with Austin and Santino.

<i>Haute couture</i> Creation of exclusive, custom-fitted clothing

Haute couture is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design. The term haute couture generally refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves. Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became the centre of a growing industry that focused on making outfits from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable of sewers—often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Couture translates literally from French as "dressmaking", sewing, or needlework and is also used as a common abbreviation of haute couture and can often refer to the same thing in spirit.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Josephus Thimister</span> Belgian interior designer

Josephus Melchior Thimister was a Dutch interior decorator and noted fashion designer who launched his eponymous fashion label, THIMISTER in 1997. In 2001, the editor-in-chief of Vogue USA Anna Wintour named Josephus Thimister as one of the Twenty-First Century's best fashion designers. In 2010, Cathy Horyn writing for The New York Times described his couture show and its pieces as, "fascinating (…) quite clear in military shapes and broken elegance. Dresses like melted down family silver". After a brief period with Karl Lagerfeld as an assistant, he worked as a designer at Jean Patou before being appointed director of luxury prêt-à-porter at the house of Balenciaga. It was for the next five and a half years that Thimister would spend reviving the brand with his pure, succinctly modernist vision. He then set up his own Paris-based house in 1997, and thereafter presented both haute couture and prêt-à-porter collections under his name.

Ralph & Russo British fashion house

Ralph & Russo is a European, privately held company owned and founded by Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo. Ralph & Russo is a high fashion house that specializes in haute couture and ready-to-wear clothes, luxury goods, and fashion accessories.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stéphane Rolland</span> French fashion designer

Stéphane Rolland is a French fashion designer and an haute couture fashion brand. His mother worked at Pictorial Service, one of the most famous Parisian photographic studios, and he grew up surrounded by black-and-white photographs. "Everything was black-and-white; everything was about volume and contrast. My eyes were trained early on with these concepts and everything I do is about contrast, volume and movement. It’s in my DNA".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vionnet (company)</span> Italian luxury haute couture label

Vionnet is an haute couture label founded by the French couturier Madeleine Vionnet. Established in 1912, the house of Vionnet closed doors in 1939. Vionnet was relaunched by Guy and Arnaud de Lummen in the mid-1990s with perfumes and accessories, and then in 2006 with ready-to-wear collections. In 2012, Vionnet was purchased by the Kazakh businesswoman Goga Ashkenazi. In 2023, Chimhaeres Investments purchased the brand.

François Lesage was a French couture embroiderer. Lesage was globally known in the art of embroidery and worked for the largest fashion and haute couture houses. His atelier is now part of Chanel through the company's subsidiary, Paraffection.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yumi Lambert</span> Belgian model

Laura Yumi Lambert is a Belgian model.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Celia Kritharioti</span> Greek fashion designer

Celia Kritharioti is a Greek fashion designer. She is the owner of the oldest Greek fashion house, established in 1906.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Maison Schiaparelli</span> French fashion house

Maison Schiaparelli is a haute couture house created by avant-garde Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, and moving towards luxury ready-to-wear after being bought in 2007 by Diego Della Valle. The house is famous for its eccentric fashions, the use of Surrealism in its collections, its sense of humour, the "shocking Pink" color, gender crossing, and its use of human anatomy depictions, among other unconventional themes.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 Epp, Marlene (2008). Mennonite women in Canada a history. Winnipeg: University of Manitoba Press. pp. 184–187. ISBN   9780887554100.
  2. Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). A dictionary of costume and fashion : historic and modern. Courier Dover Publications (2013 reprint). p. 53. ISBN   9780486141602.
  3. 1 2 Keller, Rosemary Skinner; Ruether, Rosemary Radford; Cantlon, Marie (2006). Encyclopedia of Women and Religion in North America. Indiana University Press. p. 266. ISBN   978-0-253-34685-8.
  4. 1 2 Scott, Stephen (1 January 1996). Introduction to Old Order and Conservative Mennonite Groups: People's Place Book No. 12. Simon and Schuster. ISBN   978-1-68099-243-4.
  5. "Q: So what about the funny clothes? Do you dress like the Amish?". Stillwater Monthly Meeting of Ohio Yearly Meeting of Friends. Archived from the original on 9 August 2021. Retrieved 10 April 2022. Women usually wear long-sleeved, long dresses, and a head-covering such as a scarf, bonnet, or cap.
  6. Lippy, Charles H.; Williams, Peter W. (2010). Encyclopedia of religion in America. Washington, D.C.: CQ Press. p. 82. ISBN   9780872895805.[ permanent dead link ]
  7. 1 2 3 Arthur, Linda B., 1997. "'Clothing is a Window to the Soul': The Social Control of Women in Mennonite Society". Journal of Mennonite Studies 15, p. 15
  8. Fischer, Lucy. "Greta Garbo and Silent Cinema: The Actress as Art Deco Icon". Camera Obscura 48 16 (3), p. 85
  9. Widmer, Marilou. New Orleans in the Fifties. Pelican Publishing Company, Inc., 1991, p. 80
  10. Victoria and Albert Museum. "Day dress|Madeleine Vionnet". V&A Search the Collections. Accessed: 14-10-2014. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15564/day-dress-madeleine-vionnet/
  11. Victoria and Albert Museum. "Evening dress and cape|Coco Chanel". V&A Search the Collections. Accessed: 14-10-2014. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O88627/evening-dress-and-coco-chanel/
  12. Victoria and Albert Museum. "Evening ensemble|Cristóbal Balenciaga". V&A Search the Collections. Accessed: 14-10-2014. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O71705/evening-ensemble-cristobal-balenciaga/
  13. "Evening Dress | Venet, Philippe | V&A Explore The Collections". Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections. 1989. Retrieved 2023-04-24.
  14. Elle. "Stephane Rolland Fall 2010 Couture Runway - Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Collection". Elle.com. Accessed: 15-10-2014. http://www.elle.com/runway/haute-couture/fall-2010-couture/stephane-rolland/collection/?click=main_sr#slide-37; Elle. "Stephane Rolland Fall 2010 Couture Runway - Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Collection". Elle.com. Accessed: 15-10-2014. http://www.elle.com/runway/haute-couture/fall-2010-couture/stephane-rolland/collection/?click=main_sr#slide-23; Elle. "Stephane Rolland Fall 2010 Couture Runway - Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Collection". Elle.com. Accessed: 15-10-2014. http://www.elle.com/runway/haute-couture/fall-2010-couture/stephane-rolland/collection/?click=main_sr#slide-21; Elle. "Stephane Rolland Fall 2010 Couture Runway - Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Collection". Elle.com. Accessed: 15-10-2014. http://www.elle.com/runway/haute-couture/fall-2010-couture/stephane-rolland/collection/?click=main_sr#slide-5
  15. Misener, Jessica. "Gwenyth Paltrow Oscars Dress 2012: Tom Ford White Cape!". Huffington Post. 27-02-2012. 15-10-2014. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/02/26/gwyneth-paltrow-oscars-2012-dress_n_1302888.html
  16. Riemersma, Femke. "Interview: Jan Taminiau over de jurken van Koningin Máxima". Elle. 01-05-2013. 15-10-2014. http://www.elle.nl/lifestyle/interviews/Interview-Jan-Taminiau-over-de-jurk-van-Maxima
  17. Barsamian, Edward. "Lupita Nyong'o's 10 Best Red Carpet Looks". Vogue. 19-06-2014. 14-10-2014. http://www.vogue.com/868887/lupita-nyongo-best-red-carpet-looks/ Archived 2014-11-03 at the Wayback Machine